I cut a piece of spruce to fit it. I wanted a nice tight fit, and it worked out well.
The area where the bridge will go is actually a few thousandths of an inch lower than the rest of the top. This is due to the thickness of the finish. So I wanted to try and get the patch down to that level, or as close to it as possible, by sanding it on the ROSS.
I made lines on the patch all the way around so I'd have a mark to shoot for.
Then I'll use a scraper and sandpaper to bring the patch down exactly to the level of the top. The sanding on the ROSS is to get as much material off as possible before the fine fitting.
After the machine sanding, I glued the patch into place. As with the bridge plate, I used hide glue.
I wanted to get a shot of the gluing. You try brushing hot hide glue onto something with one hand and taking a picture with the other! This is what you get.
But you get the idea.
Then ve clamp oop ze patch vith ze clamps.
And a nice granadillo caul. This time I did use a caul underneath as well.
The Complete Martin Guitar Restoration Saga
Restoration begins
Repairing heel break
DIY chisel for bridge plate removal
DIY bridge plate removal iron, Pt.1
DIY bridge plate removal iron, Pt.2
Steam removal of bridge plate
Bridge plate removed
Tongue brace removal
Crack repair and brace scallop
New bridge plate Pt. 1
New bridge plate Pt. 2
Patching hole in top (This page)
Final fitting of top patch
Installing carbon fiber rod
Fret removal
Fingerboard crack repair, Pt. 1
Fingerboard crack repair, Pt. 2
DIY fret bender tool
Refretting Pt. 1
Refretting Pt. 2
Tuner shaft repair
Neck reset - dovetail fitting
Measuring neck set with DIY jig
Gluing the neck with hide glue
Tortoloid Pickguard
Fitting bridge pins
Brace reglue
Making bone saddle
Making a buffalo horn nut
Restoration completed
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