tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3961606901899692062024-03-18T04:58:06.993-04:00Crawls Backward (When Alarmed)Projects, musings about guitar builds, guitar repairs, vintage tube amplifiers, old radios, travel, home renovation, and other stuff.Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.comBlogger801125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-12085722416465525512020-02-06T14:29:00.000-05:002020-02-06T14:29:54.184-05:001919 Gibson A-4 Mandolin: New Bridge & Crack Repair, Pt. 2Continuing to repair cracks on the Gibby mandolin.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp7OTvlFY9IZMLoa_yQ641CdEOoVbbrgHZ2loFSqbVwmHIfyKE6_8tCZTpUlWbeTvpbSqSGWmISf7Zhemsogth9vPI1CDBGdzHyQSpGf8buTN-QR51I2HiTFOMm0XINM53HlHGF5Oix7yV/s1600/long-seam-crack-gibson-mandolin-opening-repair-top.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp7OTvlFY9IZMLoa_yQ641CdEOoVbbrgHZ2loFSqbVwmHIfyKE6_8tCZTpUlWbeTvpbSqSGWmISf7Zhemsogth9vPI1CDBGdzHyQSpGf8buTN-QR51I2HiTFOMm0XINM53HlHGF5Oix7yV/s320/long-seam-crack-gibson-mandolin-opening-repair-top.png" width="320" /></a></div>
You may recall that four years ago I fixed the <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2015/04/top-crack-repair-on-1919-gibson-4.html">center seam crack</a>. Guess what? It opened up again. Gently pressing down on the top revealed the crack had come unglued. I think the length of the crack meant it was under stress and glue just won't hold it shut.<br />
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So this time, instead of just gluing it, I figured I'd cut some cleats with my new <a href="https://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2020/01/1919-gibson-4-mandolin-new-bridge-and.html">cleat cutter</a> and put them in there for a very solid repair.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg7HEZ4-vGlEIKjS2dx66naEPsFNi-hNJa_KaV5ic4IMntPJ-VvLhG74JsMGy1Cb0VYIthyIej80nbR6EWS4d7u6cbDXJ-wu0czW73oLAg-mZJhyQKoeY22YryuvJDLT9Ii7g3uXEfmAH2/s1600/drilling-making-cutting-instrument-crack-repair-cauls-plug-taper-round-spruce.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg7HEZ4-vGlEIKjS2dx66naEPsFNi-hNJa_KaV5ic4IMntPJ-VvLhG74JsMGy1Cb0VYIthyIej80nbR6EWS4d7u6cbDXJ-wu0czW73oLAg-mZJhyQKoeY22YryuvJDLT9Ii7g3uXEfmAH2/s320/drilling-making-cutting-instrument-crack-repair-cauls-plug-taper-round-spruce.png" width="320" /></a></div>
First step was to make a bunch of cleats production line style.<br />
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I won't need all of these, but it's so much fun I couldn't stop making them!<br />
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Don't look at this picture if you're squeamish.<br />
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I settled on four cleats, and then drilled the access holes as I did on the last repair.<br />
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I wanted the cleats and the cauls to conform to the arch of the top as closely as I could make them.<br />
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So I taped some 100 grit paper over the crack. I used double-sided tape for the paper, and knocked down the tack a bit by putting it on my shirt and removing it a few times.<br />
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Then I sanded a few small blocks of pine for the cleats.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT9WAeZtr4I38-HLh-1kWoxHglDilNjBaVtwSdoHEsdPEq3zB_mPasdBY2jYsPWXpaF-MemIuqiIF6DZULm1AQGfilGuU-e_97eTUeLof4me9dYyLWsb5hzuhVkBECG1AGhOlxgYFrZSqC/s1600/custom-curved-arched-cauls-gibson-mandolin-crack-repair-top.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT9WAeZtr4I38-HLh-1kWoxHglDilNjBaVtwSdoHEsdPEq3zB_mPasdBY2jYsPWXpaF-MemIuqiIF6DZULm1AQGfilGuU-e_97eTUeLof4me9dYyLWsb5hzuhVkBECG1AGhOlxgYFrZSqC/s320/custom-curved-arched-cauls-gibson-mandolin-crack-repair-top.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's one of the three cauls, showing its arch.<br />
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Maybe this is overkill, but I wanted to put as much leverage onto the top when gluing the crack and cleats as possible.<br />
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Note that I labelled each caul as to its location - top, middle, bottom. Each curve is a slightly different.<br />
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Then I put sandpaper on each caul and shaped the "top" surface of each cleat using the radius on the caul. The top being the side that will be glued under the crack.<br />
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Each cleat is numbered so it would match the correct location under the crack.<br />
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I wanted to ensure as close a fit of the cleats as possible under the crack - since the top is arched, I figured I'd arch the cleats too.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9X118KnwQYai0a3xhgcwCA_LOkBQPzModUx_ctHdtlnEhGh7oGX3UKIhiPtQfDHxAC7W4P5ahbBZD5lpZKeqQa9wH8Inq80O7NMW5PLqe7d9aHuTqNktwDWGSTz0S9zDmYd6unHgQXNv-/s1600/tying-block-end-stew-mac-crack-repair-instrument-cleat.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9X118KnwQYai0a3xhgcwCA_LOkBQPzModUx_ctHdtlnEhGh7oGX3UKIhiPtQfDHxAC7W4P5ahbBZD5lpZKeqQa9wH8Inq80O7NMW5PLqe7d9aHuTqNktwDWGSTz0S9zDmYd6unHgQXNv-/s320/tying-block-end-stew-mac-crack-repair-instrument-cleat.png" width="320" /></a></div>
As with the <a href="https://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2020/01/1919-gibson-4-mandolin-new-bridge-and.html">previous crack</a>, put the wire though the body, then slip a cleat on, then the brass tie block, and tie the block onto the wire.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_IrqoCwTrYdeUlx6NJ_H6QVxMXpKP58ysdWl6lbedxZaG3YnitNiUZVKgyYbmIvWffI3fdQHwoLvlkYu6N7oQk4RAgPAivh65MaleEtQs-RaJnrCghjh1XYsGMVfPGzigrQJdWcQQVzig/s1600/cleats-prepare-glue-crack-repair-instrument-guitar.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_IrqoCwTrYdeUlx6NJ_H6QVxMXpKP58ysdWl6lbedxZaG3YnitNiUZVKgyYbmIvWffI3fdQHwoLvlkYu6N7oQk4RAgPAivh65MaleEtQs-RaJnrCghjh1XYsGMVfPGzigrQJdWcQQVzig/s320/cleats-prepare-glue-crack-repair-instrument-guitar.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I taped the cleats down so they wouldn't get tangled up. The wires are fairly long and I envisioned a mess inside the mandolin other wise.<br />
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Then apply glue to the crack and the cleats as usual.<br />
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Thread the wires through the cauls, then pull the cleats though, wind the wires around the tension tuners, wind them tight, and let the glue dry. Again I have waxed paper over the crack so the glue won't adhere to the cauls.<br />
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This made for a very solid repair.<br />
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You can see that you need a bunch of tuners for a long crack. I have an ancient Lyon & Healy parlor guitar in the repair queue with long side and top cracks, so I'll need to cook up a few more of these for that job.<br />
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I'll do the finish touchup on the mandolin in the next post.<br />
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<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-16339047163207362502020-01-31T15:49:00.000-05:002020-02-06T14:29:43.821-05:001919 Gibson A-4 Mandolin: New Bridge & Crack Repair, Pt. 1You may recall my Gibson A-4 mandolin from work I did on it a few years back.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8mp35aqIZSlH_jLjvWqoQPpWQMqIbBvXAMxzvjFhuMpcnUlYG6aPpxroU2uBozOZQwhCAC_3cm0rrcucBlPFGYZejNseLQcSnEzfxDt8q-9hfboIY8dW96uZLGiuRVRv1CEE8nj0P54eF/s1600/gibson-a4-mandolin-original-factory-bridge-string-action-height-lower-removal.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8mp35aqIZSlH_jLjvWqoQPpWQMqIbBvXAMxzvjFhuMpcnUlYG6aPpxroU2uBozOZQwhCAC_3cm0rrcucBlPFGYZejNseLQcSnEzfxDt8q-9hfboIY8dW96uZLGiuRVRv1CEE8nj0P54eF/s320/gibson-a4-mandolin-original-factory-bridge-string-action-height-lower-removal.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The action on it is a bit high. I've lived with it for a while, but I decided to bite the bullet (or the ebony...) and make a new bridge.<br />
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A-style Gibsons of this era have a fixed, non-adjustable bridge, unlike F-style instruments, which have an adjustable bridge. On a more modern instrument, I would simply shave some height off the bridge to lower the action, but I don't have the heart to take a file to the original bridge. So I'll carve a new one instead.<br />
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I also have some new cracks to fix. I just procured a really cool, clever crack-fix tool kit, so this is a great opportunity to try it out.<br />
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I see a lot of these mandolins with cracks up near the fingerboard. Mine had one on the other side which I repaired, and now I need to fix this one.<br />
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The <a href="https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Clamps/StewMac_Crack_Repair_Tools.html" target="_blank">Stew-Mac crack tool kit</a> consists of a plug cutter to make cleats and an air gun to help inject glue into cracks, as well as some wire and tie blocks (more on that later).<br />
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Here I am making some cleats for the crack. I've done this by hand in the past - but the plug cutter lets us make nice looking cleats quickly and easily.<br />
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Here's the cutter with a few cleats. Since the top of the mandolin is spruce, I used spruce. They look great.<br />
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We need to make a caul to help put leverage on the crack to level it and make it tight.<br />
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I grabbed a piece of scrap pine for the caul.<br />
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I also laid out the cleats in the approximate location I want them under the crack, and marked the caul with the location of the holes in the cleats to line them up.<br />
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I sanded the bottom of the cleat to the same curve that the mandolin has on its body where the crack is. Wanted to make it fit as closely as possible so as to maximize the tension I'll put on the cleats.<br />
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Drill holes in the crack that will line up where we want the cleats - and where we made holes in the cleat.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxDNkSdPse2gKZVcDKAc_NYJVQD8cPgxnHZvW9F1s7GKLuNDubZGpvAASyWUNMGdTf4FFP0AI-DyKh1QaiKf1upwDBcSZj4C0n0NFT48WyEeowxRUTFBIQ5UXHsdv28ozvpi0JWeWQ-GVa/s1600/spring-steel-wire-stew-mac-crack-repair-cleats.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxDNkSdPse2gKZVcDKAc_NYJVQD8cPgxnHZvW9F1s7GKLuNDubZGpvAASyWUNMGdTf4FFP0AI-DyKh1QaiKf1upwDBcSZj4C0n0NFT48WyEeowxRUTFBIQ5UXHsdv28ozvpi0JWeWQ-GVa/s320/spring-steel-wire-stew-mac-crack-repair-cleats.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Cut a length of spring steel wire for each of the cleats - about 12 inches (3 cm) long.<br />
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Thread the wire through the holes into the body and pull it out through the soundhole.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY7K-NVEDohi-3qO-_55ETNr0GR26LkxC5zkY5SwKrWpejxggyiGm-hfrtg3XbvmgcTAbrJBzJN_y6QVZjfjzA0fik1VtItSVvu9EDofG1K5c9fj7ZVo4g4RclectH-9zrYLno96lhx2NK/s1600/stew-mac-crack-repair-cleats-tie-block-bobbin-instrument.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY7K-NVEDohi-3qO-_55ETNr0GR26LkxC5zkY5SwKrWpejxggyiGm-hfrtg3XbvmgcTAbrJBzJN_y6QVZjfjzA0fik1VtItSVvu9EDofG1K5c9fj7ZVo4g4RclectH-9zrYLno96lhx2NK/s320/stew-mac-crack-repair-cleats-tie-block-bobbin-instrument.png" width="320" /></a></div>
On the other end of the wires, thread a cleat on, then tie a brass tie block on.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDAmLzX2ub8ElrHI98TcuyLf77k-20yR81debbbpX6UI_rUrF7rUcjU_Iy0CwoJL69oP6J5qE_oAwiGTfrnmKj4ShAWCBcFECSTTVaYU4DlZLQHnlw6wuqUdHG4RvNsoF58du3yiMpZnXv/s1600/air-gun-glue-insert-pressure-instrument-crack-repair-inject-fill.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDAmLzX2ub8ElrHI98TcuyLf77k-20yR81debbbpX6UI_rUrF7rUcjU_Iy0CwoJL69oP6J5qE_oAwiGTfrnmKj4ShAWCBcFECSTTVaYU4DlZLQHnlw6wuqUdHG4RvNsoF58du3yiMpZnXv/s320/air-gun-glue-insert-pressure-instrument-crack-repair-inject-fill.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the air gun. There's a suction cup on the end. Connect it to a compressor running about 10 psi.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTTZ_ILcMgeAgX1m0bt2qEiyBRoikvu5LdQYs1rMb9eDNHqMaRwuth3f7QWyMTr8Ku0jyRV-2KKD0e5dNJF5GMFC_JF-5f-Xb1SqoN8JPvEk0PBEV4v-l6i9MOzFXhM6xIRNzLEPjoCQ2S/s1600/injecting-pressure-compressed-air-gun-glue-instrument-crack-repair-crack.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTTZ_ILcMgeAgX1m0bt2qEiyBRoikvu5LdQYs1rMb9eDNHqMaRwuth3f7QWyMTr8Ku0jyRV-2KKD0e5dNJF5GMFC_JF-5f-Xb1SqoN8JPvEk0PBEV4v-l6i9MOzFXhM6xIRNzLEPjoCQ2S/s320/injecting-pressure-compressed-air-gun-glue-instrument-crack-repair-crack.png" width="320" /></a><br />
Spread some glue over the crack, and use the gun's air pressure to help force the glue into the crack. I've just spread the glue by hand in the past, but having it under some pressure really helps get it into the crack.<br />
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The glue has a working time of about 5 minutes, so I had everything ready to go. Five minutes seems like a long time, but it goes by quickly when you have a lot of steps in the process.<br />
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I'd prefer to use hide glue, but I used Titebond because of the longer working time. No way I could do all this in the 60 seconds hide glue would start to set in.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuFwd_qopjILi-D0ZRj9u4uSDG5A9HQFr17vS3rBDpl4z46CrX9TsrGggS2QHohUp5qSUtLgFYytMi4WQAu7mU0wGDGV-RbVwcNNR5VzrgDY45eAtDUI9-lEtqb07N6TVi3OACEJ8k1clZ/s1600/glue-crack-fill-insert-inject-instrument-top-repair-mandolin-guitar.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuFwd_qopjILi-D0ZRj9u4uSDG5A9HQFr17vS3rBDpl4z46CrX9TsrGggS2QHohUp5qSUtLgFYytMi4WQAu7mU0wGDGV-RbVwcNNR5VzrgDY45eAtDUI9-lEtqb07N6TVi3OACEJ8k1clZ/s320/glue-crack-fill-insert-inject-instrument-top-repair-mandolin-guitar.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's he crack with the glue injected into it. Looks good.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXbX98MzLhxWliU0vKJw3I7MXNxqWyU-dtg8wd0FMVsbT-bpRD-sdt32ADrfXBsOqvycBn-fHvzFKiLCOF1aqs5lFnVMYAmw0h1UFUHS-83Y_fNuHWqK0hgn1tftOMWTpjHIQUsnu5IeBG/s1600/spreading-glue-applying-crack-repair-cleat-instrument-top.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXbX98MzLhxWliU0vKJw3I7MXNxqWyU-dtg8wd0FMVsbT-bpRD-sdt32ADrfXBsOqvycBn-fHvzFKiLCOF1aqs5lFnVMYAmw0h1UFUHS-83Y_fNuHWqK0hgn1tftOMWTpjHIQUsnu5IeBG/s320/spreading-glue-applying-crack-repair-cleat-instrument-top.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Spread some glue onto the top of the cleats where they will contact the underside of the mandolin's top where the crack is. Be careful not to get glue onto the top of the mandolin.<br />
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I also put some waxed paper inside the body near the crack to keep glue from winding up where I didn't want it.<br />
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Put some waxed paper over the crack so glue won't adhere to the caul.<br />
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Then I slipped the wires through the holes drilled in the caul, and pulled the wires through, until the cleats seated up under the crack on the inside of the mandolin.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWfrrlXAH8nGgXiOJhbN59BPtZn69WNCpGnppjF2Tk054k_KnHZPqKfkJ23gwQGr30PxGCNcX5lc74VZOkZt42wBC6Niz1qhEUe_yvY1U5Uwi1HgQNMlwrEGvlsftPxf5HazdDSoCXGqbt/s1600/string-winder-tuner-tension-guitar-crack-repair-cleat-stew-mac-kit.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWfrrlXAH8nGgXiOJhbN59BPtZn69WNCpGnppjF2Tk054k_KnHZPqKfkJ23gwQGr30PxGCNcX5lc74VZOkZt42wBC6Niz1qhEUe_yvY1U5Uwi1HgQNMlwrEGvlsftPxf5HazdDSoCXGqbt/s320/string-winder-tuner-tension-guitar-crack-repair-cleat-stew-mac-kit.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Now for the clever part.<br />
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Pull up the end of the wire outside the instrument, clip off any excess, and then wind it onto the tuner/tension tool from the kit.<br />
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Then wind the tuner to pull the wire upward, and thus, the cleat up tightly into contact with the underside of the body.<br />
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Did I say clever?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp06HUjMj5OrdcqBRh6TX_rNbG5LqjQ4MXYziRfZsXFKZfB0T8FIgh99bYlJypf4fW95xO5GqY7OpNvsEGw_AQcpQuEMtXzRIjVFlszRGTzet8t33osz2FAqb0FhF75WPQGCxJ_LCg5Np7/s1600/wire-tension-pull-tight-cleat-instrument-crack-repair-guitar-mandolin-stew-mac-tuner-wind.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp06HUjMj5OrdcqBRh6TX_rNbG5LqjQ4MXYziRfZsXFKZfB0T8FIgh99bYlJypf4fW95xO5GqY7OpNvsEGw_AQcpQuEMtXzRIjVFlszRGTzet8t33osz2FAqb0FhF75WPQGCxJ_LCg5Np7/s320/wire-tension-pull-tight-cleat-instrument-crack-repair-guitar-mandolin-stew-mac-tuner-wind.png" width="320" /></a></div>
So we have one tuner for each cleat.<br />
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Couple of things: the tuners are slotted, so the wire, which is a bit stiff, is tricky to get into position on the tuners. I put my finger over the slot to hold the wire down as I wound up some tension.<br />
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You don't need a lot of tension. You'll feel when the cleat is pulled up tight.<br />
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Stew-Mac sells extra tuners - I bought a couple. I would be easy to make these in your shop - using the tuners of your choice (i.e. not slotted) mounted onto a block. I plan to do this.<br />
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But overall, it's a great kit and, again the concept is very clever. You need cleats to help hold some cracks together, and this helps to clamp them into place.<br />
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Here's a mirror shot of the cleats from underneath.<br />
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You think it's hard to get a mirror into a guitar body and take a picture, try a mandolin!<br />
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The cleats look great - totally professional. And the repair is very solid.<br />
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Next time - more fun with cleats! And some finish touchup.<br />
<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-6143145844574140422020-01-10T14:37:00.001-05:002020-01-10T14:37:13.999-05:00ca. 1936 Regal-made ex-Banjo Bill Carson Dobro Tenor Guitar Restoration, Pt. 5: Fingerboard, Tuners, Nut, Saddles and it's done!<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtnPsWVaro1UwQmiQiUxJ3R8eww1Rg2_cxZYcPvh3_IxdIl8E1TR2fodv0mQzrbXbhFoyNqL48XLrDorDoTvrXELrqIy-j79Zo_rw4IiIx1HgMhGeE1y393dMU2ttR0M2JKzrBKTcrFz9h/s1600/cleaning-guitar-fingerboard-preparation-finish-dye-black-ebony.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtnPsWVaro1UwQmiQiUxJ3R8eww1Rg2_cxZYcPvh3_IxdIl8E1TR2fodv0mQzrbXbhFoyNqL48XLrDorDoTvrXELrqIy-j79Zo_rw4IiIx1HgMhGeE1y393dMU2ttR0M2JKzrBKTcrFz9h/s320/cleaning-guitar-fingerboard-preparation-finish-dye-black-ebony.png" width="320" /></a><br />
Home stretch on the ex-Banjo Bill Carson Regal-made Dobro tenor guitar.<br />
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I'm going to re-dye the fingerboard. I'm not sure of the species of wood used, but I've read a lot of references indicating Regal, Kay, Harmony and other Chicago makers often used pearwood for fingerboards, then dyed them to make the look like ebony. In fact, quite a few Regal ads refer to an "ebonized fingerboard."<br />
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At any rate, I used some naptha to wipe down the board and remove any sawdust residue and dirt.<br />
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This is what I've been using to stain fingerboards. Fiebling's leather dye. It's what Stew-Mac used to sell for this use. Now I see they've <a href="https://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Finishing_Supplies/Colors_and_Tints_and_Stains/Black_Fingerboard_Stain.html" target="_blank">changed to a brand of India ink</a>.<br />
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I will probably switch to the ink going forward. I've used the leather dye for some time, but I have found it lacking. For one thing, it's really messy. And for another thing, as I found out on this guitar, it stains bindings. For some reason, I though it didn't, but it does.<br />
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You can see I did mask the neck binding, but some dye still got on the binding. I scraped it off, no big deal, but it's just a pain. I think any kind of dye is best for a new unfretted board. A lot harder to apply to to an existing instrument. I've done it in small areas, but not a whole board until now.<br />
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Maybe the India ink will be better. This is not something I do a lot, so it will probably be some time before I find out.<br />
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It's easy to apply. I used a small brush to paint it onto the board. And over my nice shiny new frets. The dye won't adhere to the frets, but you will need to wipe excess off. In hindsight, I should have dyed (died? lol) before I fretted the board.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvxKWLP9rTCQTZJX-R4ZTOFjHJAS3dzn1Xv2VKAA9DnmCKsriq_O63d57do-5k-vDEpleMMOATC7QeThzXE_jWT_5h8HwU2AdwkySGh21uqF8uEqUIpD95YPjj8gI05OG3KLj6_H2Xs41C/s1600/finishing-guitar-light-color-fingerboard-black-ebony-dye-paint.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvxKWLP9rTCQTZJX-R4ZTOFjHJAS3dzn1Xv2VKAA9DnmCKsriq_O63d57do-5k-vDEpleMMOATC7QeThzXE_jWT_5h8HwU2AdwkySGh21uqF8uEqUIpD95YPjj8gI05OG3KLj6_H2Xs41C/s320/finishing-guitar-light-color-fingerboard-black-ebony-dye-paint.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The whole board after a coat of dye. The wood really drank up the dye - I did a couple applications to make the finish even.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj54lj8RmXzCgM77PJpx6mW145Nm_LAa1rMP1-zm6vO-tnoi6xNEfgqU-g2KlZwm8eyqgPfewX2kIeTX-UyOcmIQbYwnQds1qFXUDmvmIkxUkkCiFBq0x8IyA7JLACvh0wPNdojsjR3My8d/s1600/trimming-dowels-flush-hole-fill-guitar-tuner-screw.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj54lj8RmXzCgM77PJpx6mW145Nm_LAa1rMP1-zm6vO-tnoi6xNEfgqU-g2KlZwm8eyqgPfewX2kIeTX-UyOcmIQbYwnQds1qFXUDmvmIkxUkkCiFBq0x8IyA7JLACvh0wPNdojsjR3My8d/s320/trimming-dowels-flush-hole-fill-guitar-tuner-screw.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Then I installed the tuners.<br />
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First I trimmed the dowels I used to fill the old tuner holes using a flush cut saw.<br />
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One of my pet peeves is people installing new tuners that require new holes. Eventually someone may have to replace the tuners and deal with the holes.<br />
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Sure, you can leave the holes, but that's sloppy work and leaves the holes open for moisture to get in and rot the wood. It's not difficult to find tuners that will mount the same way as the originals. The owner and I believe the originals were banjo style tuners - how hard could it have been to find some?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6cd3_-IXA3jsDZXUx9W771_Q3F21cr3LhaqXEqxwsSgc56GH7uQpA-hadMXUeGAU-HxG22p5TrCdNPSBgbAsoFwJ1pP4whfcxnblQyLvm6k9xT83clpFg8qFxyH_m6eBhSvffpIY4kDiA/s1600/filling-guitar-tuner-holes-screw-dowels-staining-finishing.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6cd3_-IXA3jsDZXUx9W771_Q3F21cr3LhaqXEqxwsSgc56GH7uQpA-hadMXUeGAU-HxG22p5TrCdNPSBgbAsoFwJ1pP4whfcxnblQyLvm6k9xT83clpFg8qFxyH_m6eBhSvffpIY4kDiA/s320/filling-guitar-tuner-holes-screw-dowels-staining-finishing.png" width="320" /></a></div>
After the dowels are cut flush, I used red mahogany stain to finish them. Not a perfect match, but the dowels' end grain will be protected and from a few feet away, the holes won't be obvious.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqQqbKSO5doWFmIDP9bBTPTZjYh6KF6x2i-gVeXty7bu3_4r2KwIZIeIOmraF8mz7gm8vmSL4lk1wDY4Cvg2rNomJ9osQRVjvMqsPwTIasRu-KmlVW2ze0V0TD57ahPAQDmVXmW3ub3svB/s1600/five-star-banjo-tuners-replacement-tenor-guitar-locating-pin.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqQqbKSO5doWFmIDP9bBTPTZjYh6KF6x2i-gVeXty7bu3_4r2KwIZIeIOmraF8mz7gm8vmSL4lk1wDY4Cvg2rNomJ9osQRVjvMqsPwTIasRu-KmlVW2ze0V0TD57ahPAQDmVXmW3ub3svB/s320/five-star-banjo-tuners-replacement-tenor-guitar-locating-pin.png" width="320" /></a></div>
These nice Five Star tuners will go into the guitar. They have planetary gears, are good quality and have the proper 'period' look.<br />
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Note the arrow showing the little locator pin on the base. This penetrates the headstock and keeps the whole tuner assembly from rotating under string tension.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPk-JW8b5yYkkARWxds01kTtGGcefwir5-4fig3c4WkHtk_yDsmQdjH2sjOC2Ie28htlste-J5bsChenPcsLk3_yeFhVanlfBtwce5XCkWnDLRULZCyIou-rVwR5D3GsQ0seDB5-_B_16y/s1600/installing-tightening-nut-five-star-banjo-tuners-guitar-retaining.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPk-JW8b5yYkkARWxds01kTtGGcefwir5-4fig3c4WkHtk_yDsmQdjH2sjOC2Ie28htlste-J5bsChenPcsLk3_yeFhVanlfBtwce5XCkWnDLRULZCyIou-rVwR5D3GsQ0seDB5-_B_16y/s320/installing-tightening-nut-five-star-banjo-tuners-guitar-retaining.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Slip the tuners through and tighten them down.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVTrulA-jSeDPu7As2qQEqKRKt81RixARZl0qs3svO4QXqPQykGzxVRauUwsVQSidRI2YGMURp0QnchXarKEKkHYbFjIErllvtsvmsTu8RubvTdvueavZmjzQuCBlmn7G2ACg50thaFBE-/s1600/banjo-tuners-five-star-pearl-knobs-installed-tenor-guitar.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVTrulA-jSeDPu7As2qQEqKRKt81RixARZl0qs3svO4QXqPQykGzxVRauUwsVQSidRI2YGMURp0QnchXarKEKkHYbFjIErllvtsvmsTu8RubvTdvueavZmjzQuCBlmn7G2ACg50thaFBE-/s320/banjo-tuners-five-star-pearl-knobs-installed-tenor-guitar.png" width="320" /></a></div>
From the back. They look nice I think.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDL7ZYMVkG4y-5fvYQmLBQ2Mc08hGLGd2Yz18GtW5c4XvIrcryRo0gDneBNFqjrsegpR2-57Uu5kKMQ-mLSqP0FFwUCwGpxjtjs_NrdbfwGVdoqGY4e2_GB4KOKBSkMh6CGx2utoSwjO7O/s1600/bone-nut-regal-dobro-tenor-guitar-marking-outside-slots.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDL7ZYMVkG4y-5fvYQmLBQ2Mc08hGLGd2Yz18GtW5c4XvIrcryRo0gDneBNFqjrsegpR2-57Uu5kKMQ-mLSqP0FFwUCwGpxjtjs_NrdbfwGVdoqGY4e2_GB4KOKBSkMh6CGx2utoSwjO7O/s320/bone-nut-regal-dobro-tenor-guitar-marking-outside-slots.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Now to make a new bone nut. The original nut was cracked on the high A string, so I need to make a replacement. I use bone. It's the best for tone hands down.<br />
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I use a string spacing rule to mark the inside strings. Mark the outside strings - maybe 1/8 of an inch from the edges of the fingerboard or whatever is appropriate.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHayCGapTcfRhdozyFr8KDi-yPxsVDbML36UjZQVZPNDARavChawBbGaQGjLqLsUHDwM57E5Bz_jDR1zrxs-oGlAdIT7kkls950O6PpxR1qYWrDQc0N5joyVtkC_ev611PPPmUbY6OUzia/s1600/marking-string-slot-locations-guitar-nut-making-bone-gauge-cut.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHayCGapTcfRhdozyFr8KDi-yPxsVDbML36UjZQVZPNDARavChawBbGaQGjLqLsUHDwM57E5Bz_jDR1zrxs-oGlAdIT7kkls950O6PpxR1qYWrDQc0N5joyVtkC_ev611PPPmUbY6OUzia/s320/marking-string-slot-locations-guitar-nut-making-bone-gauge-cut.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Then find a set of marks on the rule that line up with those two marks and use the inner set of marks for the inside strings. The rule was made for guitars but works fine for 4-string instruments; just need to find the appropriate marks.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjByBiIOk1gNzS9dIKho2sBXKJ7nA2YlBn9sclWv2x_eioWNN7wMC0Dm1tUX_ju46RqxgXcuvv98ZSXJ5e_RXWSIDWmHMMCr_Ci74bM8rOHl9J1Nqn_zG1tWBkvt5SqDm-K-_QgJsg-ySH3/s1600/marking-bone-nut-guitar-string-depth-height-pencil-slot.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjByBiIOk1gNzS9dIKho2sBXKJ7nA2YlBn9sclWv2x_eioWNN7wMC0Dm1tUX_ju46RqxgXcuvv98ZSXJ5e_RXWSIDWmHMMCr_Ci74bM8rOHl9J1Nqn_zG1tWBkvt5SqDm-K-_QgJsg-ySH3/s320/marking-bone-nut-guitar-string-depth-height-pencil-slot.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I use an X-acto saw to mark the initial nut slots - just enough to hold the strings in place.<br />
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Then I use a half-pencil laid on the first fret to mark the nut. This mark is approximately the maximum depth to file the slots down to. In other words, we will wind up filing a bit shy of the mark.<br />
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The mark is not super accurate, it's an estimation of the slot depth. In practice, I put the string on, file each slot a bit, check the string's height at the first fret, etc. I like to get my fret slots so the string can be at its lowest height - thousandths of an inch - over the fret.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihyphenhyphenmO7bT8lb_xIvzmr3rtDu4_n9oTyNiJPyv_ZnY_A7s3Tf4NpvIZ9XGbPsgTsIYYMihGt-Ll6RhSLQMu9ccm74GwgSlzXNu2hRPlujPExzkR1g1FHBGxpeB_Xs_1qrAL9d04Ihy-fUz1Q/s1600/half-round-pencil-nut-making-guitar-string-marking-height-slot-depth.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihyphenhyphenmO7bT8lb_xIvzmr3rtDu4_n9oTyNiJPyv_ZnY_A7s3Tf4NpvIZ9XGbPsgTsIYYMihGt-Ll6RhSLQMu9ccm74GwgSlzXNu2hRPlujPExzkR1g1FHBGxpeB_Xs_1qrAL9d04Ihy-fUz1Q/s320/half-round-pencil-nut-making-guitar-string-marking-height-slot-depth.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the half-pencil. Sand a pencil to half its diameter - flat - on one side. You can't resharpen them easily, but pencils are cheap, right? A belt sander is ideal but be careful you don't sand your fingertips in half too!<br />
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I do have one of the Stew-Mac nut slotting gauges and have used it some. But it seems so clunky to me to take on and off - using different gauges for each slot - that I usually go with the old method and get the slot depths by eye.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgikA8TCpAFDAV3acD01pKsuo0eMB5-FtWaNKFriSdLSfuEfqKnPMzKxH6OenkqSxOr3yrpVjX_C561mxB4asyclREgjHDznkYLunDN9HuMJ-So_py0ZrtiKwUM760PQ_XtjejUNsljFRKh/s1600/making-bone-string-nut-guitar-tenor-slots-height.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgikA8TCpAFDAV3acD01pKsuo0eMB5-FtWaNKFriSdLSfuEfqKnPMzKxH6OenkqSxOr3yrpVjX_C561mxB4asyclREgjHDznkYLunDN9HuMJ-So_py0ZrtiKwUM760PQ_XtjejUNsljFRKh/s320/making-bone-string-nut-guitar-tenor-slots-height.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Part of the way there. The low string is out of its slot - I was probably filing it.<br />
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Once the slots get a bit lower than the top of the nut, file or sand the top of the nut down. The final depths should put the wound strings about halfway down in their slots (half of the string exposed) and the unwound strings should sit just below the top of the nut. Hard to explain but if you look at a nut and ponder you should get it.<br />
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Note how close I am to the depth mark. On this nut, I actually wound up making the slots a bit deeper than the mark - again - the mark is a <i>guide</i> - it's not the final measurement.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuTcWIVZqZ8LiEacCponUiwSH5B3Wef3EBm4S7C3KmtZ3OzUjApLYLh4M0Uz6aUS2hBh6ObEkr7LfvkqAlcXL7zW221bUzdyArKoqz8e2Q4GNXMQsuHtE75njlKQd-4Q6bsOre8GNAMfkW/s1600/cutting-filing-nut-slots-guitar-bone-tenor-regal-dobro.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuTcWIVZqZ8LiEacCponUiwSH5B3Wef3EBm4S7C3KmtZ3OzUjApLYLh4M0Uz6aUS2hBh6ObEkr7LfvkqAlcXL7zW221bUzdyArKoqz8e2Q4GNXMQsuHtE75njlKQd-4Q6bsOre8GNAMfkW/s320/cutting-filing-nut-slots-guitar-bone-tenor-regal-dobro.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Filing the nut slots. I have a set of gauged files. They're nice because they are not just gauged for width - they also are rounded so the slots will have rounded edges so the slot bottoms will be rounded and strings will not hang up on.<br />
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In this shot, the slots are done. I just need to file the top of the slot more round and sand the ends of the nut level with the fingerboard.<br />
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Hey, that stain came out good, huh? Looks like ebony.<br />
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The finished nut along with the plastic original.<br />
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I polish the bone up to 6000 grit and use fine polishing compound to make it look like a piece of jewelry. I also like to file any sharp corners off so the player's hand won't get hung up on them.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTas3QN5f348JEnfGTobQkieK-RhcYkip1jfs_2_ND9EthlriUtis5943fvOCdPJnyQv-mypxmCDczpitV3KqLGdjOKtvS7WPv-Q2VA6b98AYIzsjAcnNrkEWdJLZT6d8gIu3XWEyxpzF_/s1600/finished-polished-bone-unbleached-nut-dobro-regal-tenor-guitar-installed.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTas3QN5f348JEnfGTobQkieK-RhcYkip1jfs_2_ND9EthlriUtis5943fvOCdPJnyQv-mypxmCDczpitV3KqLGdjOKtvS7WPv-Q2VA6b98AYIzsjAcnNrkEWdJLZT6d8gIu3XWEyxpzF_/s320/finished-polished-bone-unbleached-nut-dobro-regal-tenor-guitar-installed.png" width="320" /></a></div>
And the nut fitted on the guitar.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixqhlWxpz_gVm5USsIGlDPTI-tBJl82gDDT4bszaHNbtS3CAyWzVcScHq2LuYyX_7JT1CiOsSCCRpRBuLzjQK-0cGdwSPta6JfwYvuAkhWpmUicRR1ulBK8aREI98Z2fV3dpkdOf2zSd3o/s1600/toothpick-hole-fill-guitar-end-pin-glue.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixqhlWxpz_gVm5USsIGlDPTI-tBJl82gDDT4bszaHNbtS3CAyWzVcScHq2LuYyX_7JT1CiOsSCCRpRBuLzjQK-0cGdwSPta6JfwYvuAkhWpmUicRR1ulBK8aREI98Z2fV3dpkdOf2zSd3o/s320/toothpick-hole-fill-guitar-end-pin-glue.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The end pin was very loose fitting in the body. So much that it kept slipping out.<br />
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So I took some toothpicks, fit them around the pin and glued them in. The pin itself isn't glued, it can still slide out, but it's a much tighter fit now.<br />
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Before you say, "man, what a redneck repair," I'll tell you that I learned this technique to fill a hole from Dan Erlewine's repair book!<br />
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After the glue dries, clip the ends of the toothpicks. They only protrude into the hole enough to grip the end pin.<br />
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I'm not sure you could do this from outside the guitar - since I had access with the resonator off, it was easy.<br />
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One other 'feature' on this guitar - the end block is not centered on the end. Note how the hole is off-center on the block - it's in the middle of the end but the block is not.<br />
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Since the string height is now changed due to the neck reset, I need to make new saddles for the bridge.<br />
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The original saddles were made from a soft-ish wood, so I decided to use maple instead. Should get better tone and volume.<br />
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I cut the saddles on my fabulous Hegner scroll saw. Thank you, <a href="http://toymakingdad.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">TMD</a>!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRMOhQcNxF6f53_x7YcH-UQS7v0toEJWhGTwTdWwkKsRe3FEaBlSmCdTLOWcC7LgxfJjR_sdUfrRN2tv9CZHaZt6qwkG2nhXPFc_fsJMQY3rHz5rWLQDOTuTTI9O7XgHnG_emXtEhzo3bE/s1600/filing-shaping-maple-bridge-saddle-dobro-tenor-guitar.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRMOhQcNxF6f53_x7YcH-UQS7v0toEJWhGTwTdWwkKsRe3FEaBlSmCdTLOWcC7LgxfJjR_sdUfrRN2tv9CZHaZt6qwkG2nhXPFc_fsJMQY3rHz5rWLQDOTuTTI9O7XgHnG_emXtEhzo3bE/s320/filing-shaping-maple-bridge-saddle-dobro-tenor-guitar.png" width="320" /></a></div>
File the saddles to thickness to fit into the aluminum spider.<br />
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Overview of the fitting. I got so focused on the job that I didn't take more pictures, sorry!<br />
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You can see the saddles are a press fit into the slots on the spider.<br />
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The saddles wound up with small slots on top to hold the strings in place - those pencil marks are about where I made the slots - and the saddles are filed round on the top like a standard acoustic guitar saddle would be.<br />
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Then polished up the resonator and put it back together.<br />
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The lucky owner is really happy with it. He's a fabulous banjo player, so this is right up his alley.<br />
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The tone is very nice. I expected it to be harsh and metallic, but it's not at all. It's fairly bright, but it's very clear and almost delicate in tone, with great note separation. I believe most of the tone comes from the resonator alone - the body is so thick that it doesn't vibrate and contribute to the tone at all.<br />
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I feel privileged to have worked on such a fine - and historic - instrument.<br />
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<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-83929015792986487092020-01-06T17:05:00.000-05:002020-01-06T17:05:57.410-05:00ca. 1936 Regal-made Dobro Tenor Guitar Restoration, Pt. 4: Refret<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeaC4XxfvgndY6KJkgBnvtsmUqqweI6WQepBrvUxyVq-obnvgFsqfELITm73VSbCYYUK4ZPOrkY5ceMmTOxBLc06U106vpPTJ7Vo-hQkIHSgiC6vj3OLXhrTNn_IHj3ITxaS-izv_MLf3A/s1600/removing-frets-guitar-dobro-tenor.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeaC4XxfvgndY6KJkgBnvtsmUqqweI6WQepBrvUxyVq-obnvgFsqfELITm73VSbCYYUK4ZPOrkY5ceMmTOxBLc06U106vpPTJ7Vo-hQkIHSgiC6vj3OLXhrTNn_IHj3ITxaS-izv_MLf3A/s320/removing-frets-guitar-dobro-tenor.png" width="320" /></a></div>
With the neck reset and glued back to the body, I'll refret the neck and put proper pearl dot position markers on.<br />
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Removing the frets is straightforward. Heat them up a bit with a soldering iron and use fret pullers to work them out.<br />
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Note that the fret ends stop well short of the binding. It looks like the factory fretted the board first, crowned the frets, beveled the fret ends and <i>then</i> attached the binding to the neck. It's very unusual and I wonder if the original approach was to have the neck with no binding, and then the binding was put on as an afterthought.<br />
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I briefly considered refretting it the same way, but the binding would have had to come off, the frets replaced and then the binding put back on. But I didn't want to touch the fragile old binding and potentially destroy it. So I refretted it the way most guitars with fingerboard binding are done.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5ByPA3Ix2vzROOKh0nSX3D0fIbhTWcbUE4aM82jqfKdgTKQz4bSRI0yPzEJoIFebuRjhaJeEZujvoCXFODpXvFRncDaClz8jeGCMuYg6opiulzxAAElotkF8_whqWUk561FxsOVGHA-3p/s1600/regal-dobro-tenor-guitar-frets-removed.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5ByPA3Ix2vzROOKh0nSX3D0fIbhTWcbUE4aM82jqfKdgTKQz4bSRI0yPzEJoIFebuRjhaJeEZujvoCXFODpXvFRncDaClz8jeGCMuYg6opiulzxAAElotkF8_whqWUk561FxsOVGHA-3p/s320/regal-dobro-tenor-guitar-frets-removed.png" width="320" /></a></div>
In this shot you can see the frets are all removed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCb0yONdVr1z-0ShI9kT4GPZl0rQfXTfxRsOqqVV7Gn29tq_ufd-exd8YvDq-GgfD4uC3n3g26egtyCm4KLeN_YS3Gxt6fspujKaWRH98FzaqnHp2I4VNlV9OrLIpCkxJ3HXk3ot2Bsgho/s1600/banjo-bill-carson-guitar-dobro-painted-fret-markers.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCb0yONdVr1z-0ShI9kT4GPZl0rQfXTfxRsOqqVV7Gn29tq_ufd-exd8YvDq-GgfD4uC3n3g26egtyCm4KLeN_YS3Gxt6fspujKaWRH98FzaqnHp2I4VNlV9OrLIpCkxJ3HXk3ot2Bsgho/s320/banjo-bill-carson-guitar-dobro-painted-fret-markers.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The fret markers were painted on. I am reasonably sure they were done by a previous owner - maybe Banjo Bill Carson himself.<br />
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The fingerboard is made of some species of mystery wood and dyed/stained black to resemble ebony. A lot of the dye has worn off; I'll be restaining it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjknM2dbTfyC7zfkGTex3b-Dtaz4UgNywmekHC5ZU-FYH-Q4DPzcuNrCcMwH0NqLw9wx6CaQuaTguZVcaTE1li-i9a-YHQKK3aMxFBXzR-p-d_ipdiotW7rglHk5uT2-QQcckcGmsZMHYgV/s1600/sanding-leveling-dobro-tenor-guitar-fretboard.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjknM2dbTfyC7zfkGTex3b-Dtaz4UgNywmekHC5ZU-FYH-Q4DPzcuNrCcMwH0NqLw9wx6CaQuaTguZVcaTE1li-i9a-YHQKK3aMxFBXzR-p-d_ipdiotW7rglHk5uT2-QQcckcGmsZMHYgV/s320/sanding-leveling-dobro-tenor-guitar-fretboard.png" width="320" /></a></div>
There are a lot of dents, scratches and divots on the fingerboard. I'm not going to fill them, but I did level the board with 120 grit, then 220 grit paper and an aluminum beam. This also removed the majority of the old dye and the painted-on dots.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6_EbV8L5HdwI7FKvzjgeMr-6T64CfaOeGNpumsjK2pG2PHA1Cqdvxw9JX2NHAjc5pkGkYR5U5mydtJNBNt5nnWnn-hGiOjpeFzxSpHNXebzutFHFLnA0MPBZy6hoYsecA091O8hdqjFjU/s1600/leveled-fretboard-dobro-tenor-guitar-stain-removed.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6_EbV8L5HdwI7FKvzjgeMr-6T64CfaOeGNpumsjK2pG2PHA1Cqdvxw9JX2NHAjc5pkGkYR5U5mydtJNBNt5nnWnn-hGiOjpeFzxSpHNXebzutFHFLnA0MPBZy6hoYsecA091O8hdqjFjU/s320/leveled-fretboard-dobro-tenor-guitar-stain-removed.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's a shot of the board after leveling it.<br />
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After leveling the board, I wiped it clean with naptha and then marked it for new dots.<br />
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I'm putting the new markers at the 5th, 7th, 10th, and 12th frets.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipyQSOfrXB-eyv7SzkpFJqHo3O2P7GBWUAtW8ro2VlZQrxU3tyggynKG0SEOqM0bXDTCBldTF4b8M3CbQgoAf8PGiaa4-DsYdItXPeu8aeypL8_3elJBlj3KHOpJotXELkX5skdHunmWH5/s1600/inlaying-pearl-dots-markers-guitar-fingerboard-dobro-regal-tenor.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipyQSOfrXB-eyv7SzkpFJqHo3O2P7GBWUAtW8ro2VlZQrxU3tyggynKG0SEOqM0bXDTCBldTF4b8M3CbQgoAf8PGiaa4-DsYdItXPeu8aeypL8_3elJBlj3KHOpJotXELkX5skdHunmWH5/s320/inlaying-pearl-dots-markers-guitar-fingerboard-dobro-regal-tenor.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Drill shallow holes for the pearl dots using a forstner bit. The dots were 6mm at the 5th, 7th and 10th frets, and 5mm at the 12th where there will be 2 dots. Use the appropriately sized bit for the holes.<br />
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Then hit each hole with a bit of thin CA and press the dots in.<br />
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Cut the fretwire to approximate length for each fret. Note that sanding the board took most of the old dye off. There are a few divots, but they're not very deep, so I didn't bother filling them.<br />
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The modern way to fret a bound board is to cut the fret tang short of the binding so the fret end will lay over the binding.<br />
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So I marked each fret with a red marker as to where the tang would need to be trimmed back.<br />
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Then I used my homebrew <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/02/diy-fret-tang-nipper-jigtool.html">fret tang trimmer jig thingy tool</a> to cut the tang(s) back.<br />
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It worked pretty well, except I discovered the slot (on the right in the picture) that holds the fret in place is too wide and deep. The frets kept moving around, making it a bit tricky to trim the tang.<br />
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I'll need to revisit this issue on the trimmer. But it worked well enough for this job.<br />
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Now we can press most of the frets in with the Stew-Mac Jaws fret press.<br />
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The frets go right down into the slots. You can see the fret ends where the tang is removed allowing the fret ends to ride over the binding.<br />
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I used the traditional hammer method for the frets over the heel and on the fretboard extension.<br />
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Once they're all in place, the fret ends can be trimmed back even with the edge of the fretboard as you usually would.<br />
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After they're trimmed back, I file a bevel on the ends with, well, a file bevel tool.<br />
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Then crown the frets. I used modern "small" fretwire (6430 I think...), which I usually put on vintage instruments such as this one to match the size of the old ones as closely as possible.<br />
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This modern wire is just a touch larger than the original wire - the tang in particular is a couple thousands of an inch wider, so I had to file a few of the frets slots wider to accept the modern wire.<br />
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Then we touch up the fret ends with a 3-corner file to ensure they're all smooth and don't snag your hand moving up and down the board.<br />
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And finish up by polishing with 150 up to 8000 (!) grit Fret Erasers.<br />
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Frets are done.<br />
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Note how the ends lie over the binding.<br />
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You can also see the one small spot on the board I did fill - the first fret on the treble side. There was a small hole between the board and the binding.<br />
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Next time I'll re-dye the fingerboard.<br />
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<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-87507584918128018672019-12-11T15:38:00.003-05:002019-12-11T15:38:29.651-05:00ca. 1936 Regal-made Dobro Tenor Guitar Restoration, Pt. 3: Neck ResetWith the neck removed, we can start the process of resetting it.<br />
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You may recall I took some measurements before I took the neck off. There is a <a href="https://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Learn_About_Guitar_Bridge_and_Tailpiece_Installati/Neck_Set_Gauge_Instructions.html" target="_blank">formula</a> to determine how much to remove from the neck heel to have the neck angle be correct.<br />
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This neck had such a bad angle that my calculation was to remove about .09 of an inch - almost a tenth of an inch (!) off the bottom. Because of the difficulty in getting an exact read on the bridge due to the resonator, I decided to be conservative and mark about .07 to remove. I could remove more if needed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisZHe2EUOZ6fxdXHLLZaYiRh20JnnUx_GuJNbqzTH7ZPThvjvfHFFWVAO-3Rd_dboLDYAedLliaIVscsse7MezYy-oiyX8HA2yE62LmpB9e2f47LUWjbRtMuquXuQXqS6VkYYbBH_KgB23/s1600/neck-reset-guitar-marking-material-removal-dobro-regal.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisZHe2EUOZ6fxdXHLLZaYiRh20JnnUx_GuJNbqzTH7ZPThvjvfHFFWVAO-3Rd_dboLDYAedLliaIVscsse7MezYy-oiyX8HA2yE62LmpB9e2f47LUWjbRtMuquXuQXqS6VkYYbBH_KgB23/s320/neck-reset-guitar-marking-material-removal-dobro-regal.png" width="320" /></a></div>
You can see how I laid this mark out on the heel. I used an X-acto knife to scribe a line. The bottom is .07 in. from the edge of the heel, and the line progressively goes up to zero at the top of the heel.<br />
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The line is marked on both sides.<br />
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You should be able to visualize what removing this material will do to the angle (or "set") of the neck - it will pitch it backward, resulting in lower, correct string height.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUGu_19l4_DoiDATdUJyQkgLYDHoPYqguOfFBAZPpqe1shhZQ3-suvky6hLK8SUyYqvASVu8xmigJXcaO38u1i5f26V3U9u2NB9PpRUlj2mfMda3ydnQ-zdSYD6MsvsMKllnM8jjAYuYxp/s1600/hardwood-sanding-stick-guitar-neck-reset-tool.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUGu_19l4_DoiDATdUJyQkgLYDHoPYqguOfFBAZPpqe1shhZQ3-suvky6hLK8SUyYqvASVu8xmigJXcaO38u1i5f26V3U9u2NB9PpRUlj2mfMda3ydnQ-zdSYD6MsvsMKllnM8jjAYuYxp/s320/hardwood-sanding-stick-guitar-neck-reset-tool.png" width="320" /></a></div>
In the past, I've used a paint stick with sandpaper attached as the tool to take the material off. But I realized the stick tends to flex, and we need to remove that edge in a straight line.<br />
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So I cut a piece of scrap poplar left over from my <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2019/02/hardwood-slides-for-under-workbench.html">workbench drawer slides</a> and turned it into a hardwood sanding block. I used spray adhesive to attach a strip of sandpaper - 120 grit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz-A-q9NgXBx6RNXt9-vLbhzv34nnYs2ThI31t1e7CqNFgz0nckeTD2sjrutqC-f-EJQcxLHKHIZRewcvX01bGLTKnCS6WgWHW9Zi__mW07T03PRMmf95KfkAWMrbIuZnHUI5K7g4CVIuO/s1600/guitar-neck-set-chisel-undercut-heel-material-removal-tilt-sanding.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz-A-q9NgXBx6RNXt9-vLbhzv34nnYs2ThI31t1e7CqNFgz0nckeTD2sjrutqC-f-EJQcxLHKHIZRewcvX01bGLTKnCS6WgWHW9Zi__mW07T03PRMmf95KfkAWMrbIuZnHUI5K7g4CVIuO/s320/guitar-neck-set-chisel-undercut-heel-material-removal-tilt-sanding.png" width="320" /></a></div>
At this point, I've removed quite a bit of material from the 'cheeks' of the heel. This means a ridge will develop at the part of the heel under the dovetail. That can be removed and the heel undercut with a chisel.<br />
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All that needs to contact the body of the guitar is the edge of the heel, so an undercut won't affect the neck joint - in fact, removing material with a chisel will make for less material to sand off.<br />
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I do undercuts also from the side edges down toward the sides of the dovetail as well. You can see how that part of the heel angles down.<br />
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As an aside, I believe you would call this part of the dovetail the 'pin.'<br />
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Getting close at this point. I still need to take some of the lumpy part out of the bottom.<br />
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This is the trickiest part of the whole process. The line needs to be as straight as possible, and even on both sides.<br />
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Note the dovetail - it's pretty rough. That's the way it came out of the guitar.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEdTRzyFS6qnAfNcfJq2ILWVgT2ZlgDZ0KxhQnxljUhHZbxkEvL09yH2VtiamNQG__tKZwpSC1zQ9bBvOJEUvm1KOL23545rpQTT83S2C7Bw1WtDsucNnLkd4SWRItKqe-K-VkXIh0_E5l/s1600/sanding-heel-guitar-neck-set-dobro-regal.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEdTRzyFS6qnAfNcfJq2ILWVgT2ZlgDZ0KxhQnxljUhHZbxkEvL09yH2VtiamNQG__tKZwpSC1zQ9bBvOJEUvm1KOL23545rpQTT83S2C7Bw1WtDsucNnLkd4SWRItKqe-K-VkXIh0_E5l/s320/sanding-heel-guitar-neck-set-dobro-regal.png" width="320" /></a></div>
We're about ready to do a test fit.<br />
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That big block is my sanding stick - the focal length of the lens makes it look huge!<br />
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Note how much I've taken off, and note that downward angle/undercut I made on the sides and bottom around the dovetail.<br />
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This is about perfect.<br />
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And this is misleading - I did quite a few test fits as I got closer; I didn't just magically remove the right amount and it worked!<br />
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What a difference. The straightedge hits right at the mark I was aiming for.<br />
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Previously, it would have landed somewhere down on the aluminum bridge.<br />
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Since the angle has been changed, the fit of the dovetail is loose now. So we'll shim it up.<br />
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Note I sanded off some of the rough bits of the dovetail - I couldn't stand the sight of it.<br />
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I made two shims from maple bridge plate stock. They're unattached and untrimmed at this point. They'll tighten up the fit of the dovetail.<br />
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Here the shims are glued and clamped up. I have two cauls that fit the angle of the dovetail and have square outside edges so they clamp easily.<br />
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I put waxed paper between the cauls and the shims - note the squeeze out. I don't want to glue the cauls to the neck - just the shims.<br />
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After the shims are glued on, we use a piece of carbon paper wrapped around the dovetail to help shave the shims down.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkClW4jEjEQN51H_wjatnmI8cBFzACFDr0ihTwgjd6k7nGPlI-KnOAHHa89dNTXsl26uz0cuSihKaDxASvzRym7Hul608w1SMrivKBe7h-EP484mbt04VybWOM02dHjDvaThGHdyn-MPOf/s1600/guitar-neck-dovetail-set-joint-shim-trimming-carbon-paper-mark-contact.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkClW4jEjEQN51H_wjatnmI8cBFzACFDr0ihTwgjd6k7nGPlI-KnOAHHa89dNTXsl26uz0cuSihKaDxASvzRym7Hul608w1SMrivKBe7h-EP484mbt04VybWOM02dHjDvaThGHdyn-MPOf/s320/guitar-neck-dovetail-set-joint-shim-trimming-carbon-paper-mark-contact.png" width="320" /></a></div>
With the paper on, press the neck down.<br />
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It won't go far down with the shims first installed, since they're so thick they'll only let the neck go down about halfway.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqUitiLEPZFdGxWP01gpHVS42rtxUDNmh4aa-j1xZjFVjPdOB5Wy6bGSZF6NiUJR6ohB2YDl4PMtAbOVvcipFddcYSisaIV9Nm0Jn30Xw910agcAN6pznaUhp4dQp9VdIfuc4q-7cYy2jY/s1600/dovetail-shim-contact-mark-carbon-paper-guitar-neck-reset-trim-fitting-joint.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqUitiLEPZFdGxWP01gpHVS42rtxUDNmh4aa-j1xZjFVjPdOB5Wy6bGSZF6NiUJR6ohB2YDl4PMtAbOVvcipFddcYSisaIV9Nm0Jn30Xw910agcAN6pznaUhp4dQp9VdIfuc4q-7cYy2jY/s320/dovetail-shim-contact-mark-carbon-paper-guitar-neck-reset-trim-fitting-joint.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The carbon paper will leave marks on the shims where they contact the body part of the joint.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZFxEQ_F4P25Dy4d53dimleuYIskcNAhL3NAK5zpeBQ71RlmgKKNqoC14QY7C3h4CChJvOv_Zp_0E3OGJK-gTkcqrVVUrJSH3AfH9Ni4bZUgQW535xMT2T_aRqgqZXjNXy9YrgTqQ2x32k/s1600/regal-dobro-guitar-neck-heel-dovetail-body-joint.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZFxEQ_F4P25Dy4d53dimleuYIskcNAhL3NAK5zpeBQ71RlmgKKNqoC14QY7C3h4CChJvOv_Zp_0E3OGJK-gTkcqrVVUrJSH3AfH9Ni4bZUgQW535xMT2T_aRqgqZXjNXy9YrgTqQ2x32k/s320/regal-dobro-guitar-neck-heel-dovetail-body-joint.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the body side...a bit rough looking.<br />
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As an aside, I believe in technical woodworking terms, this is a 'socket.'<br />
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Note the spot where I drilled into the joint. Close but not exactly perfect. Still got the neck off easily.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6CdnlOy_uxoEEcvSQe7dKNxuP-04tJ-0c3mScKvalzAuEvy3on5jkiBX2RLo_RN-Pu7nXGYE1YUfR_ZIdwp8S_3IwXtZB26wTSB2cNHcRDiqpyZZwnz5_AoGkiVCJ4iXPKGUCCXI2GcAE/s1600/trimming-shaving-scraper-dovetail-shim-joint-guitar-neck-set-fit.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6CdnlOy_uxoEEcvSQe7dKNxuP-04tJ-0c3mScKvalzAuEvy3on5jkiBX2RLo_RN-Pu7nXGYE1YUfR_ZIdwp8S_3IwXtZB26wTSB2cNHcRDiqpyZZwnz5_AoGkiVCJ4iXPKGUCCXI2GcAE/s320/trimming-shaving-scraper-dovetail-shim-joint-guitar-neck-set-fit.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Then we shave off the areas that got marked, using a scraper.<br />
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Then repeat the same process - carbon paper, fit, scrape, until the pin seats into the socket. (If those are the correct terms).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoos59lTJVuxXrUy-n9QUolFIWd6qFVNJ-QKFnRR2U2v7XYi88q8kKdWmUGoeghFYs4MVb5x-2pqRHSIHyPkjyaVdS1sRDPVfmaCEmHQpvljSURhNYivKtwXDbQngSCz04GnKKG1AGTs1O/s1600/fitting-final-test-adjustment-dovetail-acoustic-joint-neck-set-guitar-dobro-regal.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoos59lTJVuxXrUy-n9QUolFIWd6qFVNJ-QKFnRR2U2v7XYi88q8kKdWmUGoeghFYs4MVb5x-2pqRHSIHyPkjyaVdS1sRDPVfmaCEmHQpvljSURhNYivKtwXDbQngSCz04GnKKG1AGTs1O/s320/fitting-final-test-adjustment-dovetail-acoustic-joint-neck-set-guitar-dobro-regal.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Finally the joint is reasonably tight. I use not only the tightness of the joint, but also the corner where the fretboard meets the guitar top as the final judge of a good fit.<br />
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At this point, check the side-to-side angle of the neck and the alignment in relation to the bridge.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEK15i0_dcFWEsteOO3bfhFAjul8XD2NJYgAz5YWsDSZvLw13bZ62FGiQLSExmLoeMLpkWugP8UQ5yIN_16tXMXUSrkwCVP7-2pZMVCwkhwMHSYznjn46jie4gdl7d12C54aTPJ2UH5Bvk/s1600/neck-heel-fitting-guitar-acoustic-reset-joint-body-sandpaper.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEK15i0_dcFWEsteOO3bfhFAjul8XD2NJYgAz5YWsDSZvLw13bZ62FGiQLSExmLoeMLpkWugP8UQ5yIN_16tXMXUSrkwCVP7-2pZMVCwkhwMHSYznjn46jie4gdl7d12C54aTPJ2UH5Bvk/s320/neck-heel-fitting-guitar-acoustic-reset-joint-body-sandpaper.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Last step is to use sandpaper strips between the body and the neck to adjust the contour of the heel to match the body.<br />
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I bought a roll of canvas-backed paper from Stew-Mac for this job. Regular paper-backed sandpaper tends to tear. This stuff works great.<br />
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Put the strip in place, hold the neck to the body, and pull the paper toward the bottom of the guitar. I do a few passes on one side, and the same number on the other so that both sides are even.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsG6OBpSS7hIamOmZ2fUvFCljkC7bh_W2u6HQWV8TGlQDyf0nGiwFx-PfaU6wrzBw-N4IH3rIkY8cYmCzxh2EAlwp4YbcEy5Juh7Vksv-QobB4mzLRaPTWLCWhReSJfxK16tj9kT-yOygw/s1600/removing-old-tuners-acoustic-guitar-regal-dobro.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsG6OBpSS7hIamOmZ2fUvFCljkC7bh_W2u6HQWV8TGlQDyf0nGiwFx-PfaU6wrzBw-N4IH3rIkY8cYmCzxh2EAlwp4YbcEy5Juh7Vksv-QobB4mzLRaPTWLCWhReSJfxK16tj9kT-yOygw/s320/removing-old-tuners-acoustic-guitar-regal-dobro.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I'm going to replace the tuners, so I take them off. The owner and I think these are not original, and he's splurged for some nice Five Star geared banjo style tuners.<br />
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Since I need to enlarge the tuner holes for the new tuners, I figure it's easier to do that now while the neck is still off the guitar.<br />
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Enlarging tuner holes is one of those tasks that seems easy, but can be tricky. I've used sandpaper attached to dowels (good if you only need something like one millimeter removed), files (good if you don't care if the hole winds up less than perfectly round), reamers (hard to avoid a cone-shaped taper in the hole).<br />
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So I searched on the interwebs, knowing the answer was there. Sure enough, I found a <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DwXI1VrHkQ" target="_blank">YouTube video</a> outlining this simple but effective method.<br />
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Emulating the video, I made up a simple jig with dowels the diameter of the old tuner holes (I think they were 1/4 inch) stuck in some holes.<br />
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The dowels protrude about half the distance of the depth of the headstock. I'll put a tuner hole over a dowel, drill down halfway, then flip it over and drill the other half.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEeZjdN-rJHUzdP5Kda-vZUejc12uOv9WdRJi0ibZlzbDCI-S62NIc-1OD3YqkIFpj0efMlMcWi1ZAJSgRPgkGwsAU443zQqz8OO4wbkfQ85k1Ps8T9OVaoRx2s4k9KIVtzjf5WqJZWpzD/s1600/enlarging-guitar-tuner-holes-drill-jig-dowel-alignment.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEeZjdN-rJHUzdP5Kda-vZUejc12uOv9WdRJi0ibZlzbDCI-S62NIc-1OD3YqkIFpj0efMlMcWi1ZAJSgRPgkGwsAU443zQqz8OO4wbkfQ85k1Ps8T9OVaoRx2s4k9KIVtzjf5WqJZWpzD/s320/enlarging-guitar-tuner-holes-drill-jig-dowel-alignment.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here it is in action. I used a Forster bit on the drill press, and it worked well. Ideally, you'd have two dowel sizes - one the original size and one for the new size. Using the same size for both sides of the hole meant I had to be careful lining up the bit on the second side, but it worked well.<br />
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Better than trying to use a larger bit freehand, where the neck will want to spin freely as the bit enters. The dowels help keep the neck steady.<br />
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Note I also drilled out the old screw holes for new dowels (1/8 inch) to fill them. I can't stand seeing ragged old screw holes left on headstocks. Careless, lazy work if you ask me.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6LauRsXy_btHU6TEHlsipqsWiTIdjZoca7FHRKOk2eGudKbipis1Ymf7qbKd-vEI7EGwVJPZkFOlXVmPc575-D2m6zu59_fGdhHRzRbDb79mzrt0faS2JM29v5wvnv2cTIXj5hhmKVlGC/s1600/clamps-cauls-gluing-guitar-neck-acoustic-reset.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6LauRsXy_btHU6TEHlsipqsWiTIdjZoca7FHRKOk2eGudKbipis1Ymf7qbKd-vEI7EGwVJPZkFOlXVmPc575-D2m6zu59_fGdhHRzRbDb79mzrt0faS2JM29v5wvnv2cTIXj5hhmKVlGC/s320/clamps-cauls-gluing-guitar-neck-acoustic-reset.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Almost there!<br />
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Line up some clamps and cauls to fit the neck back on.<br />
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I strongly suggest doing a dry run with your clamps - get them adjusted closely in advance. Especially if you're using hide glue, you have a limited open time, and having everything ready to go is a huge help.<br />
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Doing a test also makes sure you are aware of any problems. Nothing like having applied glue to a part and realize there's an issue. Been there.<br />
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Did I mention problems?<br />
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While I was getting the neck ready, the fingerboard separated from the neck at the top. Glad it happened now. I'll re-glue it first before I do the neck.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU8CBlFlhV-9EEAoMXLsUZ7qbqsLMT_Bdvp98MNy7s6vbzrSu8pnebQkKnvEhepvbZtchcp2rriKGp12y2GfO2_uOqyc4UzmjLemTxfrt34xom0s6ErC7VYe_OIwjJ3Bw_9pS0ScIIofby/s1600/scraping-guitar-top-gluing-neck-reset-fingerboard-extension.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU8CBlFlhV-9EEAoMXLsUZ7qbqsLMT_Bdvp98MNy7s6vbzrSu8pnebQkKnvEhepvbZtchcp2rriKGp12y2GfO2_uOqyc4UzmjLemTxfrt34xom0s6ErC7VYe_OIwjJ3Bw_9pS0ScIIofby/s320/scraping-guitar-top-gluing-neck-reset-fingerboard-extension.png" width="320" /></a></div>
It's a good idea to scrape the top of the body where the fingerboard extension will be glued on. A clean surface will ensure a good glue joint.<br />
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Also do this on the underside of the extension.<br />
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Note I've taped up the area around the extension - to avoid damaging it and to keep glue squeeze-out off the top.<br />
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Then I heat up a fresh batch of hide glue in my special luthier's hot pot. I've got some glue in a syringe also to squirt into that fingerboard joint.<br />
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Here's the fingerboard glued up and clamped. Note the squeeze-out- I haven't cleaned it off at this point.<br />
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Note also the neck caul - I made this a while back for just this sort of job. Real simple - just a wood scrap (pine) cut on a bandsaw and lined with cork.<br />
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It might seem like a pain to make these cauls, but once they're done, you can just grab them and use them.<br />
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I find I actually enjoying making them.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRjUyM2EbIlN2eBDwG5AdKZZf_peoiKm-C-O37k03RYifqQALAflD9CKKyiAI6CLCfjywtkfIY1BXXYJUxTsBJ69Oj8vymlet6NGh-VWeNS0M4tIvYRC6I4r9gM7qcR56aMwfIWDUz3FMR/s1600/clamping-guitar-neck-heel-joint-fingerboard-extension-neck-reset-regal-dobro-acoustic-cauls-hide-glue.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRjUyM2EbIlN2eBDwG5AdKZZf_peoiKm-C-O37k03RYifqQALAflD9CKKyiAI6CLCfjywtkfIY1BXXYJUxTsBJ69Oj8vymlet6NGh-VWeNS0M4tIvYRC6I4r9gM7qcR56aMwfIWDUz3FMR/s320/clamping-guitar-neck-heel-joint-fingerboard-extension-neck-reset-regal-dobro-acoustic-cauls-hide-glue.png" width="320" /></a></div>
And finally glue up the neck.<br />
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The caul you see on the front has about a 12 inch radius with fret 'slots' cut into it.<br />
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Under the neck heel there's a small block topped with cork to protect it from the clamp.<br />
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Next time - re-stain the neck, put on pearl dots, and refret.<br />
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<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-67778880218556959082019-12-04T16:41:00.002-05:002019-12-04T16:41:43.807-05:00ca. 1936 Regal-made Dobro Tenor Guitar Restoration, Pt. 2: Neck Removal<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcLZjCHtbN_8XhyZJpYaNEw2qzhoZImeTZIjH8bTLE5aJQNP5hd9vRhaEf7OTTpjouLma3D5ZFC0Ee8tlxuhOZMc_qNIHiFPut-Y0_8xooi1FKKh-tv7SQUrEofgiXoFMkNbt9qHtzHjIT/s1600/neck-reset-guitar-dobro-measuring-height-difference-strings-bridge-resonator.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcLZjCHtbN_8XhyZJpYaNEw2qzhoZImeTZIjH8bTLE5aJQNP5hd9vRhaEf7OTTpjouLma3D5ZFC0Ee8tlxuhOZMc_qNIHiFPut-Y0_8xooi1FKKh-tv7SQUrEofgiXoFMkNbt9qHtzHjIT/s320/neck-reset-guitar-dobro-measuring-height-difference-strings-bridge-resonator.png" width="320" /></a></div>
As I noted in the last post, the Regal Dobro needs a neck reset. It's unplayable as is.<br />
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We need three measurements to calculate how much needs to be removed from the neck heel: the height of the heel, the distance from the body/neck joint to the saddle, and the height from the top of the frets to the bridge.<br />
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As you can see above, I use a straightedge to get that last measurement. On most guitars, I can extend the straightedge until it hits the bridge, generally a distance below the saddle. But here the resonator cover is in the way, so I sort of eyeballed the measurement.<br />
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We need to drill an access hole to get our steamer tool down into the dovetail. So we heat up the first fret in from the body edge - it's the 15th on this guitar - with a soldering iron.<br />
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Just as you would when soldering, keep the tip clean and tinned so it will transfer heat well.<br />
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Then remove the fret by gently rocking it side to side with fret removal pliers. If you're not refretting the guitar, put the fret in a safe place so you can reinstall it.<br />
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First thing to do in removing the neck is to loosen the fingerboard extension - where the board is over the guitar body.<br />
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I put some sign-painters tape over the body to protect it.<br />
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Warm up my trusty next extension removal heater.<br />
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You can buy heating elements to do this but my old clothes iron works just fine. I use it on the hottest setting - I believe it's marked 'cotton.'<br />
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While the iron is heating up, I heat up some water in my luthier's hot pot and put a palette knife in it. We'll use that to remove the fingerboard extension. Having it hot helps it go through the old glue.<br />
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I made a cardboard form years ago to fit over the body which covers the upper bouts but is cut to allow access to the fingerboard extension. It's covered with aluminum foil glued on with contact cement.<br />
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When the iron is hot, place it on the fingerboard extension for about a minute or so. If it stays on too long, it might melt the binding or loosen frets. Maybe. I don't want to risk that.<br />
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Starting at one front corner, gently work your heated knife under the fingerboard extension.<br />
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This takes a while. You'll find at first, you can go in a little ways, then eventually, as the glue starts to give, you will make more progress.<br />
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Don't rush it. Do a little at a time, then put the iron back on, then use the knife, etc.<br />
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Here I've pretty much released the whole extension from the body of the guitar.<br />
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You can see why I put the tape down - to keep from damaging the guitar top.<br />
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Stew-Mac sells this knife - that's where I got mine. But art supply stores sell them, and you'll find a greater variety there. I now have a few different shapes and different thicknesses to use depending on the job at hand.<br />
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Now we drill the access hole for the dovetail. I use a long bit - I think it's 1/16 of an inch diameter and 6 inches long - from McMaster Carr.<br />
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The idea is to drill on the side of the dovetail, at about a 10 degree angle to try and follow the dovetail.<br />
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Ideally, you'll feel it hit bottom when you drill. The hole should be about 1/2 an inch from the edge of the fingerboard. Oh, and put a mark like my tape flag on the bit so you don't go too deep! The dovetail will probably stop about a half an inch from the bottom of the heel.<br />
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The usual method of removing the neck involves using steam applied through a needle. I've done this for every reset I've done.<br />
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But the problem with steam is...water. You will get water droplets in the joint, possibly on the neck heel, and possibly inside the guitar body.<br />
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Stew-Mac (ha) now sells this tool which they call a <a href="https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Tools_for_Necks_and_Fingerboards/StewMac_HeatStick_for_Neck_Removal.html" target="_blank">HeatStick</a>. It's a long pipe, threaded at one end to attach to a soldering iron. Instead of the steam needle, you put the HeatStick into the hole you just drilled and it heats the neck joint.<br />
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I was game, so I got one. You can see it above. They sell it for 2 irons - a Solomon and the Weller WES-50, which is what I use.<br />
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As I mentioned, it's a copper pipe threaded to go onto the iron. I <i>suppose</i> you could even homebrew one out of copper pipe stock.<br />
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So let's try it.<br />
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Put the guitar into the neck removal jig. (THAT is homebrewed).<br />
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Attach the HeatStick to your iron, heat it up and place it into your access hole. Stew-Mac says to use the highest setting on your iron. I set mine at about 800 degrees F, not quite all the way up, which is about 850.<br />
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In this shot, you can see that angle I mentioned. I try to follow the angle of the dovetail.<br />
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Just like you would with steam, let the joint get hot for a couple minutes, wiggle it until it starts to move a bit. I took the iron out several times because I didn't want the iron to overheat. I also kept cleaning the tip as well.<br />
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Some of the reviewers indicated their irons went up in smoke, so I was a bit wary. Although I'm not sure how the iron would be ruined, to be honest.<br />
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One other note - the fret dot markers are painted on! I believe they were not original to the guitar - they're not exactly circular and have clear brush marks. I'm going to sand them off and replace them with pearl dots.<br />
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After wiggling the neck a bit and tightening up the tension screw at the bottom of the heel, we can see the neck is beginning to separate - note that light is visible at the bottom of the heel next to the body.<br />
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Heat, wiggle, tension, etc., until...poof...the joint gives way.<br />
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We've removed the neck!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja4m8fnU5d8qicF3aqMJMXNTBj8rgIaPdFBkOPQ-NnMxcN-3Tq7o4dLgKq9LrWbfFca1PKab0GbGHhiWZD_oen4Uk6HQM7wW9R3Fvnr5aRTJ90GKqWI9R-PkDvW9nDIhqY90EXPis2sQxn/s1600/hide-glue-cleaning-stew-mac-heat-stick-tool-neck-removal-tip-end.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja4m8fnU5d8qicF3aqMJMXNTBj8rgIaPdFBkOPQ-NnMxcN-3Tq7o4dLgKq9LrWbfFca1PKab0GbGHhiWZD_oen4Uk6HQM7wW9R3Fvnr5aRTJ90GKqWI9R-PkDvW9nDIhqY90EXPis2sQxn/s320/hide-glue-cleaning-stew-mac-heat-stick-tool-neck-removal-tip-end.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The neck was originally glued with hide glue. You can see some of the residue that got picked up on the end of the HeatStick. I wiped this off a few times during the process.<br />
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"HeatStick?" Really, is that the best they can do?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivkNMRhFX_EAMbvGEsmSsOt2TjNG-ch6OQFrAR0dpiBRY-FqA-pgqXrfJDRapcJE3Y9uRQu1o6Mo_z6D9zT_VAinB5GnbUkxdkA4o8pH19gcHf5pQtk4U9cH3KNiISCvgsApl0HoSFM5pp/s1600/neck-removed-dovetail-dobro-tenor-guitar-body-joint-heel.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivkNMRhFX_EAMbvGEsmSsOt2TjNG-ch6OQFrAR0dpiBRY-FqA-pgqXrfJDRapcJE3Y9uRQu1o6Mo_z6D9zT_VAinB5GnbUkxdkA4o8pH19gcHf5pQtk4U9cH3KNiISCvgsApl0HoSFM5pp/s320/neck-removed-dovetail-dobro-tenor-guitar-body-joint-heel.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the removed neck. Note the original shims on the dovetail. Not quite as well made as a Martin, but it did (does) the job.<br />
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If you look closely, you'll see the spot where my drill bit went in - a touch too far in, not exactly perfect but it worked fine. The key is to hit an edge of the dovetail, and not the center.<br />
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I suspect folks who do resets every day on the same guitars (e.g. Martins) know the exact spot to drill the hole.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilrabqvlHw5zSQVHAPFCY0g5xUWhqoFUBe7M7TgpOcF44fhUesAEpPcDHOdstTksA4d4WFW23-8BQ6nalBhGFaXn9EA3stuJlDK7nugX_UISDenWX2odW14ur1HDGeI3XDNKy4cI_EBpx2/s1600/gluing-hide-hot-injecting-needle-guitar-neck-fingerboard-extension-dovetail-separation-knife-open-joint.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilrabqvlHw5zSQVHAPFCY0g5xUWhqoFUBe7M7TgpOcF44fhUesAEpPcDHOdstTksA4d4WFW23-8BQ6nalBhGFaXn9EA3stuJlDK7nugX_UISDenWX2odW14ur1HDGeI3XDNKy4cI_EBpx2/s320/gluing-hide-hot-injecting-needle-guitar-neck-fingerboard-extension-dovetail-separation-knife-open-joint.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I discovered the fingerboard was coming up from the actual neck right near the dovetail. I decided to fix it right away.<br />
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I used hot hide glue injected into the joint. Note I am also using a seam separation knife (on the right) to hold the joint open as much as possible so I can get glue deep into the separation.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhueOrlFSOw4wl92ybuNUoOvzLYN2sJt4twuf-Gb6Cr4URhVfQn6vBiXKOksPx6M3igyLjeuLguNG1Stk3fZQ5YxbCAzK3wh-F_xeyOZHm5DikUhAXcGBuZ45U3Wt7OECG77ohHcGdUHZFF/s1600/clamping-gluing-guitar-neck-fingerboard-extension-dovetail-separation-joint-hide.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhueOrlFSOw4wl92ybuNUoOvzLYN2sJt4twuf-Gb6Cr4URhVfQn6vBiXKOksPx6M3igyLjeuLguNG1Stk3fZQ5YxbCAzK3wh-F_xeyOZHm5DikUhAXcGBuZ45U3Wt7OECG77ohHcGdUHZFF/s320/clamping-gluing-guitar-neck-fingerboard-extension-dovetail-separation-joint-hide.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the joint clamped up until the glue dries.<br />
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Next, I'll continue the neck set by removing material from the bottom of the heel joint to pitch the neck back. I also need to refret the neck and I'm going to re-dye the fingerboard.<br />
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<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-52483583747708314322019-11-20T16:38:00.001-05:002020-02-11T15:37:43.831-05:00ca. 1936 Regal-made ex-Banjo Bill Carson Dobro Tenor Guitar Restoration, Pt. 1: Overview<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidGdw4N4tBj6Nm621Hh-d3jEW3vu78Jb8WThbU1y-QLu-NKSJkU-8vLqB0fVqoBd9HvfbC941Jh0wxYJ1-A1FesqTe3weqasQZAThEaefP9kEw9jNhe4CcxY6VmKXb1rvYafSDnAMxJOEC/s1600/chipboard-case-dobro-tenor-resonator-guitar.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidGdw4N4tBj6Nm621Hh-d3jEW3vu78Jb8WThbU1y-QLu-NKSJkU-8vLqB0fVqoBd9HvfbC941Jh0wxYJ1-A1FesqTe3weqasQZAThEaefP9kEw9jNhe4CcxY6VmKXb1rvYafSDnAMxJOEC/s320/chipboard-case-dobro-tenor-resonator-guitar.png" width="320" /></a><br />
Oh, look! Another old instrument case on the bench. Wonder what's inside.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0g0KK9uL6Yz_yjrKh4C1Cm9Dinl0nONKDy_XKnbOW8_QWNSHmAxl3F22G917ALChkn4SuYClJD2DHszcQ53Avyp1n7UlChmgBYSu3a0sw4BQH9LLjLFtjH9KYl8c-6e0ZyfKEQGUA7JOy/s1600/dobro-dopyera-prototype-guitar-resonator-tenor.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0g0KK9uL6Yz_yjrKh4C1Cm9Dinl0nONKDy_XKnbOW8_QWNSHmAxl3F22G917ALChkn4SuYClJD2DHszcQ53Avyp1n7UlChmgBYSu3a0sw4BQH9LLjLFtjH9KYl8c-6e0ZyfKEQGUA7JOy/s320/dobro-dopyera-prototype-guitar-resonator-tenor.png" width="320" /></a></div>
How cool is this? It's a 1930s resonator guitar. And...it's a tenor! Pretty rare bird, I'd say.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiETkob2_b9ucteWgdeiaJ7X_R3O6ik4qjLrokaLVGgbCKbMwxYbuJJaNC2L4FS13qs_gyOBLsY1svnsL8mmzdAL4maaLVV7QCGrfadX2n1nbwLZkCwca1RhLXBKYjQ3j_bd4CDgdDAOK_Z/s1600/resonator-dobro-dopyera-guitar-headstock-tenor.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiETkob2_b9ucteWgdeiaJ7X_R3O6ik4qjLrokaLVGgbCKbMwxYbuJJaNC2L4FS13qs_gyOBLsY1svnsL8mmzdAL4maaLVV7QCGrfadX2n1nbwLZkCwca1RhLXBKYjQ3j_bd4CDgdDAOK_Z/s320/resonator-dobro-dopyera-guitar-headstock-tenor.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the headstock. Four strings and no waiting. No decal, no label, nothing.<br />
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Dig the rope strap.<br />
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This guitar belongs to a friend who has entrusted me to go over it. It needs a neck reset and a refret. I'm also installing new planetary tuners.<br />
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The description online in the listing was: "This item was purchased at an auction in Kentucky and was said to be custom made by Rudy Dopyera for Banjo Bill Cornett."<br />
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I had to research to find out more and to see if I could validate these claims.<br />
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Rudy Dopyera was one of the five Dopyera brothers who left National in the late 1920s over disagreements with its President, George Beauchamp (who would develop the first production electric guitar with Adolph Rickenbacker).<br />
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The Dopyera brothers started their own company, Dobro, to make resonator instruments. In an ironic twist, Dobro would wind up purchasing National in the 1930s. Resonators were popular because they gave guitar players more volume to compete with horn players in bands of the time.<br />
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Dobro was based in Los Angeles, and reached an agreement with Regal (of Chicago) in 1931 for Regal to build guitars in Chicago and distribute them the the Eastern US. The first instruments sold under this arrangement came out in late 1932. Dobro made the resonators at their factory in Los Angeles and shipped them to Regal in Chicago. Instruments were then assembled in the Regal factory using Regal guitar bodies and the Dobro-made resonators.<br />
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Both Dobro and Regal built tenor guitars with full-size resonators, shortened bodies and 14-fret necks. Dobro called theirs the 37T and 45T, with details corresponding to the Model 37 and Model 45 guitars (a Model 37 guitar was a 37G, and a mandolin a 37M). Regal offered more tenor guitar models, but used a different numbering system, calling their tenors the 19 ½, 27 ½, 37 ½, and 45 ½.<br />
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Dobro-made instruments did not have F-holes; they all had two holes on the upper bouts covered by a screen. Regal-made instruments did have F-holes. Regal offered more tenor guitar models than Dobro, and in fact, had a line of standard, non-resonator guitars.<br />
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In 1936, Regal began using solid headstocks on all models, and by August 1937, Dobro contracted all assembly to Regal. Regal put serial numbers on their resonators for the first couple of years of production (1932-33 or so), but later instruments had no serial numbers or other markings.<br />
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Based on the information above, I'm resonably confident in stating this is most likely a 1936 or later instrument made by Regal in Chicago, using a Dobro-made resonator. And most likely a standard factory model. I found that historical information in this <a href="https://www.vintageguitar.com/30152/a-guide-to-vintage-dobros/" target="_blank">great article in Vintage Guitar magazine</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxMbqSPVvbSwo4O5ibbD2kmUkyqqWHsyyai4MUOBNy-dCKmqRfIkJ8nWoOYseWKOLC2DEgd0lBQl4zwyk4JKdEKYeMVf76Xu-KyI0zUKwdevKNTWREfIFO9ZdIT7OeZVghMog60_00RVdC/s1600/banjo-bill-engraving-carving-guitar-top-dobro-tenor-detail-letters-name.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxMbqSPVvbSwo4O5ibbD2kmUkyqqWHsyyai4MUOBNy-dCKmqRfIkJ8nWoOYseWKOLC2DEgd0lBQl4zwyk4JKdEKYeMVf76Xu-KyI0zUKwdevKNTWREfIFO9ZdIT7OeZVghMog60_00RVdC/s320/banjo-bill-engraving-carving-guitar-top-dobro-tenor-detail-letters-name.png" width="320" /></a></div>
It does seem that the guitar was owned by Banjo Bill Cornett - who was a traditional singer and banjo player from eastern Kentucky. The guitar came from a seller in Kentucky.<br />
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Banjo Bill was elected as a Kentucky State Representative in 1956 (at the age of 66) and played his song "Old Age Pension Blues" on the floor of the legislature!<br />
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He made a handful of recordings, here's one of the "<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIyj1OpgJWk" target="_blank">Old Age Pension Blues</a>."<br />
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I read some posts on the Banjo Hangout forum which seemed to indicate he played 5 string banjo with the top strings tuned to CGDA, which is a very common tenor banjo and guitar tuning.<br />
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The nut is broken - and you can see where the first fret was filed down in order to keep the guitar playable. I'll be making a new nut.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIU5oerJIuokpxqT3v67BTJ7Qos6dGECbjtlgbIQaJE0wDs0D-oxgCc4NC1C4P9_b2yZJjmjU5-tzLwcAkX6X4IYVtgC-ph5X2q3rrWSVzyAH9ZJpM7I2xd0DSUNW4LE1hacjMzmFaIqEB/s1600/dobro-guitar-tenor-string-height-neck-reset-high-resonator.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIU5oerJIuokpxqT3v67BTJ7Qos6dGECbjtlgbIQaJE0wDs0D-oxgCc4NC1C4P9_b2yZJjmjU5-tzLwcAkX6X4IYVtgC-ph5X2q3rrWSVzyAH9ZJpM7I2xd0DSUNW4LE1hacjMzmFaIqEB/s320/dobro-guitar-tenor-string-height-neck-reset-high-resonator.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The action is ridiculously high - the guitar is pretty much unplayable as is. It's obvious it needs a neck reset.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkNwAH6lXBn-XLCy-y1Ljd2dhjJi2VLZ-5N0FwUxI5hgFhrUn4x-eHCrwHBOaxQ0gW7IYkUWb6RVW5m00Fc7IMIAhWlF2uUdMr9oNlKsC4HYu6g7WYDIaOpW0uNR2b2ixKXNjwtu2vA1fr/s1600/measuring-string-height-dobro-guitar-action-neck-reset.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkNwAH6lXBn-XLCy-y1Ljd2dhjJi2VLZ-5N0FwUxI5hgFhrUn4x-eHCrwHBOaxQ0gW7IYkUWb6RVW5m00Fc7IMIAhWlF2uUdMr9oNlKsC4HYu6g7WYDIaOpW0uNR2b2ixKXNjwtu2vA1fr/s320/measuring-string-height-dobro-guitar-action-neck-reset.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I measured the string action just for the heck of it - it was about 12/64ths of a inch - 3/8!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZsIi0JKiszaLxd-L1U7b7ojxIEWBebZBDQPzzDhMVrdXs9zRfUrAkacRqdycw3lFm9-14Mu9DgL3ilVTk1d73nf4Xly_PnsgDxrszK6lZtMS9EHNSYGqSOMc3nfO7-qq6T4QahqmZZvIN/s1600/IMG_8842.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZsIi0JKiszaLxd-L1U7b7ojxIEWBebZBDQPzzDhMVrdXs9zRfUrAkacRqdycw3lFm9-14Mu9DgL3ilVTk1d73nf4Xly_PnsgDxrszK6lZtMS9EHNSYGqSOMc3nfO7-qq6T4QahqmZZvIN/s320/IMG_8842.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
I took the resonator off, one, because I didn't want it to be damaged accidentally while I worked on it, and two, I was curious to see if there were any markings inside. Apparently Regal put serial numbers on early models, but stopped in later production.<br />
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The top cover just unscrews.<br />
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The resonator bears the Dobro patent number 1,896,484. You can <a href="https://pdfpiw.uspto.gov/.piw?PageNum=0&docid=01896484&IDKey=A5E2ECB5E0BD%0D%0A&HomeUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fpatft.uspto.gov%2Fnetacgi%2Fnph-Parser%3FSect1%3DPTO1%2526Sect2%3DHITOFF%2526d%3DPALL%2526p%3D1%2526u%3D%25252Fnetahtml%25252FPTO%25252Fsrchnum.htm%2526r%3D1%2526f%3DG%2526l%3D50%2526s1%3D1%2C896%2C484.PN.%2526OS%3DPN%2F1%2C896%2C484%2526RS%3DPN%2F1%2C896%2C484" target="_blank">read the patent documents here</a>. Note the patent was submitted by, and assigned to, Rudy Dopyera. I suspect this is where the claim that Rudy built the guitar came from. (The patent number was stamped on all Dobro-made resonators).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFyl1wxR3WN4DYP0uwBFzX_4UvyJKnvaWdFHJwF7TGU60ULgeXmhvSTk0zjC9_3DiH5vidtBrUqVhd_9hYs3uUPCgwAKrPmN9NCYRuRDAkCLdZOrOXvTXPSUPNyxtzb6OC9io3oCFixGH8/s1600/dobro-tenor-guitar-regal-spider-assembly.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFyl1wxR3WN4DYP0uwBFzX_4UvyJKnvaWdFHJwF7TGU60ULgeXmhvSTk0zjC9_3DiH5vidtBrUqVhd_9hYs3uUPCgwAKrPmN9NCYRuRDAkCLdZOrOXvTXPSUPNyxtzb6OC9io3oCFixGH8/s320/dobro-tenor-guitar-regal-spider-assembly.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Resonator off. You can see the pressed aluminum cone and the spider that supports the bridge. The bridge is made of some sort of hardwood.<br />
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There are also four pads, cut from window insulation foam, around the rim of the cone. I'd guess they were there to stop buzzing between the spider, the cone, and the cover. I'll experiment a bit later to see if they are needed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh31vKMqWpzrHWXeOt5ihFXk8biZzB4LFwazqyIlOezvIepsPe_1Kz7ES3vBHv2znlILZM71EfS6mSQDOnsKm5XstUloH1B4apqo3Zwovxvn0GM7XFI3syY1IqIrNaknmuqX-xyvv3Llimu/s1600/inside-regal-dobro-tenor-guitar.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh31vKMqWpzrHWXeOt5ihFXk8biZzB4LFwazqyIlOezvIepsPe_1Kz7ES3vBHv2znlILZM71EfS6mSQDOnsKm5XstUloH1B4apqo3Zwovxvn0GM7XFI3syY1IqIrNaknmuqX-xyvv3Llimu/s320/inside-regal-dobro-tenor-guitar.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Inside the body.<br />
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The body is made of plywood, and there is a circular support for the resonator you can see which is nailed (!) to the top with small brads.<br />
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There are no markings at all inside the body. I was hoping for a date, craftsman's initials, or something, but there is nothing at all. Shucks.<br />
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Next time I'll take the measurements for the neck set and take the neck off.<br />
<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-36023235442559551482019-10-20T21:32:00.000-04:002019-10-20T21:32:44.829-04:00Replacing Rechargeable Internal Battery in SanDisk MP3 Player or Similar ElectronicsI have a SanDisk MP3 player I listen to during my daily commute on the train to work. Mine's especially nice because it also has an FM tuner built in.<br />
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A couple months ago, the battery wouldn't charge all the way and would only give about 10 minutes of play time. So I did some research and found I could replace the internal rechargeable battery easily. It took me a couple of months to finally get around to it, but I'm glad I finally got to it.<br />
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For the SanDisk, the model number of the battery is BAK 3038p. I would think if you have a similar sort of player or small electronic device, you'll find you may be able to replace the battery as I did with my player.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Jb2RVltkzkcKHABEyj_irDvCd7yqiZAXHzx1akiz2pTbGcnj8fmkTUpAR1GKDXjSIlnb25wlW55h8GAvSyGbdvmoXQcQwgGRKddPKzcomMPmYEtBY7bC61hFyrkgtF3c09lsYjjJ_gIw/s1600/sandisk-mp3-player-battery.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Jb2RVltkzkcKHABEyj_irDvCd7yqiZAXHzx1akiz2pTbGcnj8fmkTUpAR1GKDXjSIlnb25wlW55h8GAvSyGbdvmoXQcQwgGRKddPKzcomMPmYEtBY7bC61hFyrkgtF3c09lsYjjJ_gIw/s320/sandisk-mp3-player-battery.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the player with the new battery on the workbench.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRbIWpoVNrBPFN9EOLC5umSv0nlYBJf_YfuPrVoWtnBhWA5XZAS8VXyzT9vmm_wKergQ1JwMMUbg_zcCzdFmy6rBb1RKg0POSQ90Sz3eMeSQxD_QqUc9ZDS1e6FSGDqnm7as43I4c4oYgW/s1600/mp3-player-sandisk-radio-replacement-battery-case.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRbIWpoVNrBPFN9EOLC5umSv0nlYBJf_YfuPrVoWtnBhWA5XZAS8VXyzT9vmm_wKergQ1JwMMUbg_zcCzdFmy6rBb1RKg0POSQ90Sz3eMeSQxD_QqUc9ZDS1e6FSGDqnm7as43I4c4oYgW/s320/mp3-player-sandisk-radio-replacement-battery-case.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Unbeknownst to me, while the player was sitting for a couple months, the internal battery got puffy!<br />
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The fact that it pushed the case open a bit made it even easier to pry the case apart.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi20HUswXgLsfFpcswomyUhiko_DC3xLtBBkAsKIlC1IgpVgTCV3SruxfzppKwtkqNsOe-4Kk_TADgAJYW-WVMUtvzzUejiBXf5-kxhqKmQHr0xP9T9YTRimtmspMJu6l0RBd0NwdZ08_7/s1600/opening-sandisk-player-mp3-case-repair-battery-replacement-tool-plastic.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi20HUswXgLsfFpcswomyUhiko_DC3xLtBBkAsKIlC1IgpVgTCV3SruxfzppKwtkqNsOe-4Kk_TADgAJYW-WVMUtvzzUejiBXf5-kxhqKmQHr0xP9T9YTRimtmspMJu6l0RBd0NwdZ08_7/s320/opening-sandisk-player-mp3-case-repair-battery-replacement-tool-plastic.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I used a guitar pick to pry the case open the rest of the way. You could use a small bladed knife or a plastic tool of some sort as well. I wanted to avoid hacking up the case in the process and the pick worked perfectly.<br />
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You will see there are two small clips on each side that hold the case halves together.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwPJ1sja_p3tAzf9w_32M6eoTy1OzbCgRDe3HWlUOnhPh6KTP11egDnYLRWAfhIKKwPBIqWUvQba5iUVHDZfN-eSV4oPSvzxNZ7sOQtEvAyBve2hdTmYRID8jvS6-X6Xdo-ZC9Pjn4ezuX/s1600/sandisk-mp3-player-battery-case-open-circuit-board-replacement.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwPJ1sja_p3tAzf9w_32M6eoTy1OzbCgRDe3HWlUOnhPh6KTP11egDnYLRWAfhIKKwPBIqWUvQba5iUVHDZfN-eSV4oPSvzxNZ7sOQtEvAyBve2hdTmYRID8jvS6-X6Xdo-ZC9Pjn4ezuX/s320/sandisk-mp3-player-battery-case-open-circuit-board-replacement.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The battery is held to the circuit board with a piece of double sided tape. It just pulls up off the board.<br />
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Note the three small leads going to the circuit board. One of mine popped off when I turned the battery over, no big deal.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj-3wulxB5FYDKGYmV9Lh2IolntwEnGdzrl1HQob-a7W5fcRqlAJyJn5PoZpPo4v5OuwtEW7nsSuICqPi2pXllw44T1a0jg8DAs8SiyhBkqPFf4tJWn-2KKUuovPU1jsFmY3kvt9HqRele/s1600/desoldering-wick-battery-connections-sandisk-mp3-player-wire.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj-3wulxB5FYDKGYmV9Lh2IolntwEnGdzrl1HQob-a7W5fcRqlAJyJn5PoZpPo4v5OuwtEW7nsSuICqPi2pXllw44T1a0jg8DAs8SiyhBkqPFf4tJWn-2KKUuovPU1jsFmY3kvt9HqRele/s320/desoldering-wick-battery-connections-sandisk-mp3-player-wire.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I used solder wick to get the leads off.<br />
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Make sure your iron's tip is tinned when you do this.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyMMnCt0LTKmOrQWZufWOnekOGbKDDojEHCL246xUMCFgV22ZujwtnxtuhnuzweOcyXsqhZUE1rNs7X5qBJngMQMlKC5fmd-_SWNXOjtjWYx-eBqhwK1wff9cBWGqQvI4M4E1iVfnvRAsf/s1600/sandisk-battery-replacement-bak-3038p-remove.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyMMnCt0LTKmOrQWZufWOnekOGbKDDojEHCL246xUMCFgV22ZujwtnxtuhnuzweOcyXsqhZUE1rNs7X5qBJngMQMlKC5fmd-_SWNXOjtjWYx-eBqhwK1wff9cBWGqQvI4M4E1iVfnvRAsf/s320/sandisk-battery-replacement-bak-3038p-remove.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Gol-ly!<br />
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Lookit how puffed up the old battery (on the left) is puffed up compared to the new one. It didn't leak, but it looks a bit scary.<br />
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Note I marked the locations of the leads to the board in case I forgot where they went - Red, Blue, Black.<br />
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Solder the new battery to the connections on the circuit board. A tiny piece of insulation had already been stripped from each lead when I got it. Perfect, since the leads are so fragile and I would have been leery of having to strip the insulation off.<br />
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Since I had taken most of the old solder off, I melted a small bit of new solder onto each connection, heated the connection up, and pressed the lead onto hot solder on the board.<br />
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Not the preferred way to do this I know, but we're dealing with a small connection and it won't be under any stress.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfcabRLfR4wR_HtNiCvINbjqcZ5mvswaKKmS63O9EWD2ZQqBMvs4zHEowF46iLod6wESqgGMbJ-8G4QxvMJDKwVUXoN7ccaPS1PBulHkRraoxgWCb_JD_UgayB91wT8m98C5A3vTLnofM0/s1600/testing-battery-sandisk-charging-replacment-mp3-player.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfcabRLfR4wR_HtNiCvINbjqcZ5mvswaKKmS63O9EWD2ZQqBMvs4zHEowF46iLod6wESqgGMbJ-8G4QxvMJDKwVUXoN7ccaPS1PBulHkRraoxgWCb_JD_UgayB91wT8m98C5A3vTLnofM0/s320/testing-battery-sandisk-charging-replacment-mp3-player.png" width="320" /></a></div>
With the new battery in place, I plugged the charging cable into my PC and tested the player.<br />
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As you can see, it worked!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-KYRYLAetQ8qhsrMFl62hkc5ejBt1lV_lPQJVHJ0M6vnpNLviCMJF3LBZLWk7Wkj1HjMsdKlUCjRVt0jsvq2yCat3ZG-fANG9TShfg0MBS0AnbjFRLurOxSm_fsG8xhD1OytI1Cc4nFaF/s1600/closing-case-sandisk-mp3-player-clip-tabs.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-KYRYLAetQ8qhsrMFl62hkc5ejBt1lV_lPQJVHJ0M6vnpNLviCMJF3LBZLWk7Wkj1HjMsdKlUCjRVt0jsvq2yCat3ZG-fANG9TShfg0MBS0AnbjFRLurOxSm_fsG8xhD1OytI1Cc4nFaF/s320/closing-case-sandisk-mp3-player-clip-tabs.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Snap the case halves together...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFsNZOZQvJlqhbq44Wc6HyIkcC-v3G-V_68QAeeojBO1hG7QUrScXRAQcEkE_uNcSL4tBgoP-u24Gj3y6J_Vz-PEmR8FItPpYoMsBdb0oUW2zMHPe6iSm7r1bT5ENohgatXNv8CmlO5TkS/s1600/sandisk-mp3-battery-test-replacement-radio-player.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFsNZOZQvJlqhbq44Wc6HyIkcC-v3G-V_68QAeeojBO1hG7QUrScXRAQcEkE_uNcSL4tBgoP-u24Gj3y6J_Vz-PEmR8FItPpYoMsBdb0oUW2zMHPe6iSm7r1bT5ENohgatXNv8CmlO5TkS/s320/sandisk-mp3-battery-test-replacement-radio-player.png" width="320" /></a></div>
...and you're in business.<br />
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The new battery already had about a 90 percent charge on it, so I could use the player right away.<br />
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Again, I suspect this method would work for a lot of small rechargeable electronics, as long as you can get a replacement battery.<br />
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<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-81054392828824844072019-09-06T12:02:00.001-04:002019-09-08T11:32:57.877-04:00Simple DIY Go-bar Clamping Deck for LutherieI'm getting jigs together to build some guitars and ukuleles. Making a go-bar deck to use for brace clamping seemed like a good place to start.<br />
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As a woodworking tool, go-bar decks date <a href="http://theclampguy.info/hist.htm" target="_blank">far back</a>. Modern luthiers have put them into use to clamp down top and back braces on instruments. One could also use clamps, but they bulkier, harder to adjust, not to mention you'd need a lot of clamps.<br />
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LMI and Stew-Mac sell nice go-bar decks, but I figured I could make my own and save some money to put toward tonewood.<br />
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I procured a couple of 24 x 48 x 3/4 inch pieces of MDF from the Despot. I originally wanted to use 3/4 inch plywood, but there were no sheets of that size at my local Despot that day, so MDF it was. Usually I <strike>hate</strike> <strike>disdain</strike> don't use MDF, but it's a good choice for this project since it's dead flat and pretty dense.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTpCaUZ4tajAYaKuZKcL7Lfsj8Ow0Is_ga8_HgZZeFzuMqwjCXwLgU1Jq4bq2Z2PObDf-o5vHA0Oxix80z0iNzTEgOtGMfcx7Lon3ZqExki0EZxDaEVSAOPkzSFatIa327079odZpUvFWL/s1600/mdf-boards-go-bar-deck-size.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTpCaUZ4tajAYaKuZKcL7Lfsj8Ow0Is_ga8_HgZZeFzuMqwjCXwLgU1Jq4bq2Z2PObDf-o5vHA0Oxix80z0iNzTEgOtGMfcx7Lon3ZqExki0EZxDaEVSAOPkzSFatIa327079odZpUvFWL/s320/mdf-boards-go-bar-deck-size.png" width="320" /></a><br />
I cut each piece in half in order to wind up with four 24 x 24 pieces. Some of my luthier buddies at the <a href="https://www.asiartisans.org/content/" target="_blank">ASIA symposium</a> this summer suggested making the decks as thick as possible to make the assembly study and to help the top deck resist bending when putting the clamp bars in place.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL6jY4sX6xofiuC2FlNXWdHcLNtutgtQ-QyMm7qS546XzEOeAIH2zBtoHGCVxXwMUI5N7KpJOuoWBZG6gBEiRNd7QnZN0sXQytc1mQfVCNccOR8g_D7UrsuClz11qojlfASak8QPoh3Kw4/s1600/gluing-boards-go-bar-deck-mdf.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL6jY4sX6xofiuC2FlNXWdHcLNtutgtQ-QyMm7qS546XzEOeAIH2zBtoHGCVxXwMUI5N7KpJOuoWBZG6gBEiRNd7QnZN0sXQytc1mQfVCNccOR8g_D7UrsuClz11qojlfASak8QPoh3Kw4/s320/gluing-boards-go-bar-deck-mdf.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Then I set about laminating two of the sheets together. Here I am spreading Titebond onto the surface of one of the pieces.<br />
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I used a cheap disposable 3 inch brush to spread the glue.<br />
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And then clamped it down using clamps around the edges and my trusty <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN/URM-25D_signal_generator" target="_blank">AN/URM-25D signal generator</a> to hold down the center.<br />
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The generator is still in my long restoration queue, but it makes a darn good weight even when unrestored.<br />
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I had a lot of glue squeeze-out. I spent about 10 minutes going around the edges with a damp rag cleaning it up. And I still found squeeze-out after it was all dried.<br />
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After this deck dried, I glued the remaining 2 sheets together the same way.<br />
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The plan is to put four threaded rods in the corners of the bottom deck to hold the top deck up, and allow the top deck to be adjusted up and down for height.<br />
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I put a radius dish on the soon-to-become-the-bottom deck to determine where the rods could be located on the corner.<br />
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The dish is made of Extira MDF. I have a 15 foot radius (for backs) and a 30 foot radius (for tops). I'll talk more about the dishes in a bit.<br />
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I decided where to drill the pilot holes on each corner. In a fit of accuracy, I used a ruler and roofing square to mark them at the same place in from the corner at a location 45 degrees from the side.<br />
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It's important to locate the holes at the same places on the decks, since their location will enable the top and bottom decks to be square with each other.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibvSJaqmap_5h1tfTvlpo1ilM3MqhBMyccbr69viUOg7GqnN1xspT7-utuhuYsDsLdprfJxmj8OL-RBYLIeLTRuW1O_yYatD7FJsRiGnl2DtRMSJIbEccoRwcrNWsar-Q9gDv3vsUcxaAC/s1600/protecting-painting-mdf-edges-moisture-humidity-shellac-spray-end.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibvSJaqmap_5h1tfTvlpo1ilM3MqhBMyccbr69viUOg7GqnN1xspT7-utuhuYsDsLdprfJxmj8OL-RBYLIeLTRuW1O_yYatD7FJsRiGnl2DtRMSJIbEccoRwcrNWsar-Q9gDv3vsUcxaAC/s320/protecting-painting-mdf-edges-moisture-humidity-shellac-spray-end.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I had read on the Interwebs that the cut ends of MDF should be sealed to prevent moisture from getting in and warping the boards.<br />
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Here I am using spray shellac to paint the edges. Shellac in a can! What a great thing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIXCPhNMjyS0X9fM0qzgclcm847Rvb1cDXEe3Dmzsu6d-LgzMKOR6RfQU2g2Oc6YiBForIJFWIfQAwcQc4SwqD97GAzbiT07pfHfS4if3VIMMP_v-xo-ywo5PsmWFa-O-zBLCJ4JUK1qfd/s1600/drilling-pilot-holes-go-bar-deck-supports-rods-legs-corner.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIXCPhNMjyS0X9fM0qzgclcm847Rvb1cDXEe3Dmzsu6d-LgzMKOR6RfQU2g2Oc6YiBForIJFWIfQAwcQc4SwqD97GAzbiT07pfHfS4if3VIMMP_v-xo-ywo5PsmWFa-O-zBLCJ4JUK1qfd/s320/drilling-pilot-holes-go-bar-deck-supports-rods-legs-corner.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Now we drill a pilot hole in the corners we marked earlier.<br />
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I think this was a 1/8 inch bit, it's not that critical. Just something to guide a bigger bit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiohkkaxvEQ37S1DUSRO0zlepWsy-vScOcPRWnrC0wmeBUd5IAQUnlWZEq3MDL-yrrpr9T5bV519WsGGhkAEAv37_z1CSy2e51VNt8EVfWQiG4wn9gueBDZTV__BrlxffTD0JAXY6oeXKUA/s1600/drilling-hole-corner-supports-leg-bracket-go-bar-deck.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiohkkaxvEQ37S1DUSRO0zlepWsy-vScOcPRWnrC0wmeBUd5IAQUnlWZEq3MDL-yrrpr9T5bV519WsGGhkAEAv37_z1CSy2e51VNt8EVfWQiG4wn9gueBDZTV__BrlxffTD0JAXY6oeXKUA/s320/drilling-hole-corner-supports-leg-bracket-go-bar-deck.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Then it's over to the King-Seeley drill press with a 9/16 bit to make larger holes.<br />
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Those decks are heavy and without a proper table on the press (another upcoming project...), I had a heck of a time balancing the deck(s) and operating the press at the same time.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8kHAWc9ztZpdKkTKKM9LNCqS7ceRXCJRSwcsaJCSPJUfZpIF2ZhZpn_cFz_fKr7xpX957jc_CWFmxhBCFQ6Idp1ayFGQ0ERJEKWDaAyRMF-Yf0oTR2o53e2SZLzuTSrGj4EjoO3s7f7CO/s1600/threaded-t-nuts-tee-inserts-go-bar-deck.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8kHAWc9ztZpdKkTKKM9LNCqS7ceRXCJRSwcsaJCSPJUfZpIF2ZhZpn_cFz_fKr7xpX957jc_CWFmxhBCFQ6Idp1ayFGQ0ERJEKWDaAyRMF-Yf0oTR2o53e2SZLzuTSrGj4EjoO3s7f7CO/s320/threaded-t-nuts-tee-inserts-go-bar-deck.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I'm putting threaded tee inserts into the bottom deck. The rods will thread (duh) into these to hold the top deck up.<br />
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The rods I'm using are 1/2 inch x 36 inches, 11 threads per inch I think. So the inserts are the same thread.<br />
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I get all of this stuff from <a href="https://www.mcmaster.com/" target="_blank">McMaster-Carr</a>, probably the world's greatest resource for hardware. The downside is on fasteners and the like, you can't buy, say, just 4 of something. You have to get a bag of 25 or 50.<br />
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Their website is incredibly well organized and easy to use, especially given they have tens of thousands of items. And there are detailed drawings, diagrams and information for all of it. Simply incredible. I love them!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5IuoCBMSUKwuorGOAiSDHIH2DuR61TO3lMpltH6DIKt_J_N0ZCJ8ATIs7GZUT6-V1-EWF7RcDp-VcxYRCed4YVKWkxZpQTb-iTt7hRKl8YZaK00Vhef2IdBW6VW4paJgpGbL15LCsreIe/s1600/installing-threaded-t-nuts-go-bar-mdf-epoxy.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5IuoCBMSUKwuorGOAiSDHIH2DuR61TO3lMpltH6DIKt_J_N0ZCJ8ATIs7GZUT6-V1-EWF7RcDp-VcxYRCed4YVKWkxZpQTb-iTt7hRKl8YZaK00Vhef2IdBW6VW4paJgpGbL15LCsreIe/s320/installing-threaded-t-nuts-go-bar-mdf-epoxy.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The spikes on the inserts will probably hold them in place just fine, but I put some JB Weld in the holes as well.<br />
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Then just drive the inserts into the holes with a mallet.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1SWkAMqBlOIqjoUOu2bgXlGEK5dolU52NjmrJQr6IJEa_bEvlmU2bg0Rho7ScSQ2_UrXSq7N5X8VbvbPJFqzHHzDQzwfWlD0m5OP6xdb71_6frYOb8n8kYrmXUc6EHG6dZx2nn9bVipkW/s1600/cutting-pipe-copper-tool-rod.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1SWkAMqBlOIqjoUOu2bgXlGEK5dolU52NjmrJQr6IJEa_bEvlmU2bg0Rho7ScSQ2_UrXSq7N5X8VbvbPJFqzHHzDQzwfWlD0m5OP6xdb71_6frYOb8n8kYrmXUc6EHG6dZx2nn9bVipkW/s320/cutting-pipe-copper-tool-rod.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The top deck needs to be able to slide up and down on the rods. I'm using 3/4 inch copper pipe left over from plumbing repair, in the holes. I polished the pipe up to remove corrosion as you would if soldering it. I'm going to epoxy it into the holes.<br />
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And here I am cutting the pipe to length. This is one of my favorite tasks and tools. I love using a pipe cutter to cut pipe. These cutters (even my cheap one) are such cool tools to use. I suppose if I had to do this for a living, I'd get sick of it. But it's fun on those rare times when I do it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8-QbWz1YBd7GwdXw9kfqjWqVjyYQ-VMoDsxB8mDxkvAlTsJX5qmHEhi1Avw4-f12B1nMpq2KqZ3Ju8sGFgNEvYYVsgoHsaGqSTkoRqdegp_P3xu0D6wsNHp2WzkrFkg3A-U5fs-2z2vgM/s1600/epoxy-jb-weld-go-bar-deck-pipe-liner-slide.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8-QbWz1YBd7GwdXw9kfqjWqVjyYQ-VMoDsxB8mDxkvAlTsJX5qmHEhi1Avw4-f12B1nMpq2KqZ3Ju8sGFgNEvYYVsgoHsaGqSTkoRqdegp_P3xu0D6wsNHp2WzkrFkg3A-U5fs-2z2vgM/s320/epoxy-jb-weld-go-bar-deck-pipe-liner-slide.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Mix up some more JB Weld and spread it on the pipe pieces.<br />
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Note the rods in the background. Oh, I have plans for you boys!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUMax-HRUGVyv0K_in5WnJYQAxpOeyTZhG8h-rSmUlmEfpwATb9l4Nhvlwk7QRGE5RNjNFCg5UBTonngNYFWc9BF7RNDTwO9jXNjyc2GLs4BBPkkxIEV8CVpwZ7dINkne0BKz4pRqO8nxN/s1600/tapping-hammering-copper-pipe-go-bar-deck-support-slide.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUMax-HRUGVyv0K_in5WnJYQAxpOeyTZhG8h-rSmUlmEfpwATb9l4Nhvlwk7QRGE5RNjNFCg5UBTonngNYFWc9BF7RNDTwO9jXNjyc2GLs4BBPkkxIEV8CVpwZ7dINkne0BKz4pRqO8nxN/s320/tapping-hammering-copper-pipe-go-bar-deck-support-slide.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Then place the pipe in the holes and drive it in. I didn't want to make the fit too loose, it's nice and tight and with the epoxy, the pipes won't go anywhere anytime soon.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFtasxTlaCgA28E3dfTk_ncwVFTWbkR9JhuJGegF3kSFFKChAdMnuI30Yqr16n-2y1GGtdHablGQKuph1ewnY6kJKXY_bLyzL9LPfvWsAXyJMGF6ZS5GAZCWCxFspmL_s1ngpdHwaFyo7w/s1600/measuring-go-bar-deck-rod-support-threaded.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFtasxTlaCgA28E3dfTk_ncwVFTWbkR9JhuJGegF3kSFFKChAdMnuI30Yqr16n-2y1GGtdHablGQKuph1ewnY6kJKXY_bLyzL9LPfvWsAXyJMGF6ZS5GAZCWCxFspmL_s1ngpdHwaFyo7w/s320/measuring-go-bar-deck-rod-support-threaded.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The rods I have are 36 in. long. I am planning on using 24 inch rods, so the space between the bottom and top decks will probably be around 22 or so inches. Which means I can cut the rods to a shorter length.<br />
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I measured the thickness of the top deck, allowed for a bit extra, and came up with 28 inches for the rods. This really isn't a project where we need high precision; I just want the rods to be trimmed down a bit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNI_4vv5bDk7q6b3gDoX2nSllp5jU1LOE1DSK-C8WAzGtt6vzIKy6Grd_YmZokcUmO4lFsyP4vqIVq2KTuFjf40Y_-WamgDVNSQLz01xRKHJG-HIDQNjZx3V1lfJ1YDd3lD3kIiQPcVV4H/s1600/preparing-cut-threaded-rod-nuts-new.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNI_4vv5bDk7q6b3gDoX2nSllp5jU1LOE1DSK-C8WAzGtt6vzIKy6Grd_YmZokcUmO4lFsyP4vqIVq2KTuFjf40Y_-WamgDVNSQLz01xRKHJG-HIDQNjZx3V1lfJ1YDd3lD3kIiQPcVV4H/s320/preparing-cut-threaded-rod-nuts-new.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here are the rods lined up ready to be cut.<br />
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Note that I put a couple of nuts on them before cutting it, we'll see why momentarily. The nuts are threaded on a couple inches below the cut marks I made with a Sharpie.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibQ0pCLsI3ZZZGPYV762FfAJHBhqRR_rjrVY4AiQa5qtKABCK6mkqo87wdxjTswteuD-IlSlkQkTEZRv1zYvjIHJuAze2keNrLIE4eZ7bGoa7VrwDDLoU8XXTvCNoJELN_VLalHP-CP_Vt/s1600/cutting-threaded-rod-dremel-tool-sparks.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibQ0pCLsI3ZZZGPYV762FfAJHBhqRR_rjrVY4AiQa5qtKABCK6mkqo87wdxjTswteuD-IlSlkQkTEZRv1zYvjIHJuAze2keNrLIE4eZ7bGoa7VrwDDLoU8XXTvCNoJELN_VLalHP-CP_Vt/s320/cutting-threaded-rod-dremel-tool-sparks.png" width="320" /></a></div>
It's easy to make the rods shorter. You could use a hacksaw, or do as I did and use a grinder of some sort. I used a Dremel with a reinforced cutting wheel. Marked the rods with a Sharpie so the marks would be easy to see during the cutting.<br />
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I like making sparks.<br />
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You might be thinking: "How will the threads work after cutting?" Experienced machinists or metal workers know it's easy to clean up the cut threads. I learned how to do it in High School metal shop class.<br />
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We used files then, but since I have a nice Baldor grinder, I'll put it to work.<br />
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Grind the end of the cut rod flat.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYl8OLHgaJS2awAOSGTPqJoZ7xe18XdlQWuGPhEvSMcAcyd_2dYdA5i_3Uq4-zGIiGnadtXiwKGnuFPPRClVvo4kYHQaDVu4u6mdh7WVRLvquqG8v62C5AjMO6KaixfUFnwsUxfhb6k8NG/s1600/using-nut-create-new-threads-rod-cut-end.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYl8OLHgaJS2awAOSGTPqJoZ7xe18XdlQWuGPhEvSMcAcyd_2dYdA5i_3Uq4-zGIiGnadtXiwKGnuFPPRClVvo4kYHQaDVu4u6mdh7WVRLvquqG8v62C5AjMO6KaixfUFnwsUxfhb6k8NG/s320/using-nut-create-new-threads-rod-cut-end.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Then undo the top bolt over the end of the rod. This will cut a new thread at the end.<br />
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Obviously my bolts are long due to the way I'm going to use them, but regular shorter bolts will work just as well.<br />
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Hard to photograph, but you'll see we still have some burrs on the rod. The burrs were drawn upward by the bolt - making it easier to remove them.<br />
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Grind the burrs off by holding the rod on an angle on the grinding wheel - it will only take a second or two to knock them off.<br />
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If you still have burrs, use a file to get them all off. As I mentioned earlier, you can use a file for the whole operation if you don't have a grinder. Just takes a bit longer.<br />
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Here's our finished rod. Looks good. You can run the second bolt up and down over the cut to ensure it works smoothly.<br />
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It's easy to do this on a coarse thread like this, but the process works the same way for finer threads.<br />
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Assembling the deck is easy.<br />
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The rods thread into the inserts on the bottom deck plate.<br />
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Put one nut on each rod, and run the top deck over the rods. The copper pipe insert lets the deck slide up and down easily over the rod as needed.<br />
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Then put the top nut on to lock it down.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1AO7u5HGqfQINxI3xRAs7hwj4kUBdys5ETfgpaXAetf29W62-iU8NzSpf1UhI__5iJdKRj7daBqTyQwkX1WyUVUcQxo8z4pjWZ18BW12oZe_3Mk4mN7-wNsWcvTh9ZIxupuL2jKlyGv6-/s1600/adjusting-height-diy-go-bar-deck-wrench-nut-fitting.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1AO7u5HGqfQINxI3xRAs7hwj4kUBdys5ETfgpaXAetf29W62-iU8NzSpf1UhI__5iJdKRj7daBqTyQwkX1WyUVUcQxo8z4pjWZ18BW12oZe_3Mk4mN7-wNsWcvTh9ZIxupuL2jKlyGv6-/s320/adjusting-height-diy-go-bar-deck-wrench-nut-fitting.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The height of the top deck can be easily adjusted with a wrench. I used longer bolts because I figured they'd be easier to adjust.<br />
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You could also use knobs - I considered that but figured since the bolts were cheaper, I'd try them first. If they turn out to be too much of a hassle, I'll spring for some knobs.<br />
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You can see some glue squeeze out I missed too - shucks. Not a big deal.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6j-kqcN0UHJfX8EgNHyp3ZN0h9opdPIwE1pGDcQ7oCtpheusVhLQcAkl3cxzpjZ1R2cBwzFszZO2tDcrknsOdXbrQiwnk4CfNNeXKhqDoNX_q6G6yw6LpKNNmC5o3stiIbiNWNiZMQyCP/s1600/diy-go-bar-deck-form-dish-rods-clamps-instrument-making.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6j-kqcN0UHJfX8EgNHyp3ZN0h9opdPIwE1pGDcQ7oCtpheusVhLQcAkl3cxzpjZ1R2cBwzFszZO2tDcrknsOdXbrQiwnk4CfNNeXKhqDoNX_q6G6yw6LpKNNmC5o3stiIbiNWNiZMQyCP/s320/diy-go-bar-deck-form-dish-rods-clamps-instrument-making.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's how the go-bar deck works in practice. Very simple and ingenious.<br />
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Your radius dish goes on the bottom. Then your instrument's top or back goes on the dish.<br />
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Glue the braces on where you need them, and use rods placed between the top deck and the brace to clamp down. Adjust the height of the deck to put pressure on as needed.<br />
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I stuck some thin wood rods on there to demonstrate for this picture. In practice I'm going to use 24" fiberglass kite rods since they will flex easily and should work under a fair amount of pressure.<br />
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The whole deck is heavy and pretty large. Fortunately it's not difficult to break down for storage.<br />
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<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-55352469557568140222019-08-28T10:27:00.001-04:002019-08-28T13:56:13.970-04:00Replacing Idle Control Valve on SAAB c900<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXzRVZzvkVANlYAw9SU9zBeLeEuF4PHwnSGx9Gc-DVFMPHcTieoR7-31iZ7O8FU1ucJKNVnhO0SB54lKvdicAQWxrxrXUZD_5ogtMJiNu-xVYIgj0mR5WUrSEUf3WJLKxXtPeGwWGLr4Oy/s1600/saab-c900-idle-control-valve-location.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXzRVZzvkVANlYAw9SU9zBeLeEuF4PHwnSGx9Gc-DVFMPHcTieoR7-31iZ7O8FU1ucJKNVnhO0SB54lKvdicAQWxrxrXUZD_5ogtMJiNu-xVYIgj0mR5WUrSEUf3WJLKxXtPeGwWGLr4Oy/s320/saab-c900-idle-control-valve-location.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I've mentioned in posts about Greeny I've been chasing some annoying idle issues lately. I've replaced all of the vacuum hoses, replaced the rubber o-rings on the intake manifold fittings, but I still have the occasional stall and inconsistent idle. Sometimes it's perfect and sometimes there's some 'wandering.' A bit maddening.<br />
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I again cleaned the old Idle Control Valve (ICV), and was still having some problems. I'm reasonably sure the old valve was responsible for my semi-erratic idling and stalling issues. It occurred to me that in addition to sticking - sometimes resulting in idling at 1500 rpm - I wondered if the internal valve bore was just worn and was leaking air. So I finally caved and bought a new one.<br />
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Above you can see the location of the ICV. This is the old one. It's probably the original.<br />
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Side note: I originally bought a Pro Parts Sweden ICV and put that in. It didn't work right. My idle was high all the time. Aside from being quite surprised, I also had the hassle of returning it. I got a Bosch (OEM) one. My advice if you need one, get the Bosch.<br />
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It's quite easy to remove/replace this thing.<br />
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Undo the 10mm clamp bolt. Mine's been out so many times I was able to undo all the fittings with nut drivers.<br />
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Loosen one of the hose clamps. The one I'm working on in the picture takes a 7mm socket.<br />
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Undo the other hose clamp. This bottom hose has an 8mm fitting.<br />
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Remove the electrical connector from the top of the valve.<br />
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Pull the hoses off, and slide the ICV out of the bracket.<br />
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Note the nice rubber gasket to hold it in place and cut down on vibration.<br />
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Put in the new valve, connect the hoses and the electrical connector. You are done.<br />
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My idle is much better, really steady at about 900 rpm. Now it returns to idle and doesn't fluctuate at all! Finally.<br />
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Greeny is running Trionic 5 (T5), so the idle is super steady in general, unlike the 'hunting' you have on LH (stock) cars. That's why I was perturbed that the idle was a bit erratic.<br />
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<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-45240150712330019312019-07-17T17:03:00.001-04:002019-07-17T17:03:43.197-04:00Fuel Filter Replacement on SAAB c900I have a list of things for Greeny I'm working on. Some of the items have been on the list for a while - this is one of them. It's really maintenance, but it could be related to a performance issue as well. I suspect mine hasn't been changed for a very long time. It's one of those things that gets neglected.<br />
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Sometimes under acceleration I get a momentary stumble. I know this could be a fuel delivery issue - i.e., the fuel filter could be clogged. I just so happens I have a filter on hand, and I've been wanting to take care of this. I've had a new filter since last fall and finally I'm getting around to replacing the old one.<br />
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It's not a difficult job, just a bit messy.<br />
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First thing to do is to jack up the rear of the car. Or, if you're fortunately, get it up on a lift.<br />
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Note I have proper jackstands under the car and chocks on the front wheels. DO NOT get under the car if it's only supported by a jack! You want to be alive to drive the car after you're done.<br />
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New floor jack and jack stands.<br />
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I just retired my rusty ancient jack stands and have these "Pro-Lift" ones now. They seem to be good. There are two locks - one bar for the ratchet and a pin that passes though the entire support arm.<br />
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Also, my trusty Craftsman 2-ton floor jack went belly up last fall. I had that jack for over 30 years. It started leaking hydraulic fluid from one end of the piston. I would rebuild it, but I don't know the model number in order to get a rebuild kit.<br />
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At any rate, I sprung for this Arcan aluminum 3-ton jack. It's actually a lot nicer than my old one - has more capacity and lifts higher. The downside is that it's a lot bigger and heavier. But since it's aluminum, it's about 25 lbs lighter than it would be if it were steel - which is why I got it. It weights "only" about 60 pounds.<br />
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The filter is behind the right-side rear wheel. You can see it looking in the wheel well, but you need to be under the car to get at the fittings.<br />
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You can see Greeny is pretty rust free. Other than a couple of small spots in the engine compartment (frame rail), and the rear beam axle, the car is remarkably rust-free. Although looking at that axle made me start thinking about rebuilding the rear suspension so I could have the axle powder-coated!<br />
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The car has not been driven in winter its whole life as far as I know. The paint is shot but structurally it's in great shape.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKGxVzHUIFk08B1B7czOPnU3NHfdxw1NiXtRDl9JjkNIZkEgWVFkiYUxwIZIY4rZgWP_JjEbeCKTIjRMlHMb1ZC1Lz_mqEpESCR4XSKzhSOtj3hlm2QQUmeQSft0VDd7fgZARhyphenhyphenbCExjyU/s1600/fuel-filter-location-inlet-outlet-saab-c900.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKGxVzHUIFk08B1B7czOPnU3NHfdxw1NiXtRDl9JjkNIZkEgWVFkiYUxwIZIY4rZgWP_JjEbeCKTIjRMlHMb1ZC1Lz_mqEpESCR4XSKzhSOtj3hlm2QQUmeQSft0VDd7fgZARhyphenhyphenbCExjyU/s320/fuel-filter-location-inlet-outlet-saab-c900.png" width="320" /></a></div>
This is the fuel filter close up.<br />
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In this picture, the left side of the filter near the spring is the passenger side of the car (it's LHD).<br />
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With the car raised up access to the filter is pretty good.<br />
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Note how I labelled the photo as to which end of the filter is which. There is also an arrow on the filter to help with getting it installed in the right direction. This shot was taken after I had soaked the fittings with PB Blaster as noted below - they're pretty clean.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcJh3g0NLwUdyFMHyC8cWb2m_3wE96ZsU0TZ6minCWQJBs__7Hh7dyEvuiXI8XIXsdtKteVbKJy8i9fOzWBpK_-j1GX6WfEzBzbOe4VoqA_F6wDyQ3dCHddq7RRAPBAVSrXz3QE9yuHDBz/s1600/removing-fuel-filter-disconnecting-undo-banjo-fitting-saab-c900-line-hose-bolt.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcJh3g0NLwUdyFMHyC8cWb2m_3wE96ZsU0TZ6minCWQJBs__7Hh7dyEvuiXI8XIXsdtKteVbKJy8i9fOzWBpK_-j1GX6WfEzBzbOe4VoqA_F6wDyQ3dCHddq7RRAPBAVSrXz3QE9yuHDBz/s320/removing-fuel-filter-disconnecting-undo-banjo-fitting-saab-c900-line-hose-bolt.png" width="320" /></a></div>
There's a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banjo_fitting" target="_blank">banjo fitting</a> on each end of the filter.<br />
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In addition, there is a flange nut molded into the filter. The nut is there for a reason. Put a wrench on the nut to hold the filter, and then the banjo bolt can be removed.<br />
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On the interwebs you will read horror stories about rusted, frozen, stripped nuts on fuel filters. Fortunately I was lucky.<br />
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I sprayed the fittings down with PB Blaster and let it soak in for a couple hours. Then I went at it.<br />
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The nut on the filter on the inlet end is 27mm; the bolt is 19mm. On the other end, the filter nut is 22mm, and the bolt is 17mm. Put the big wrench on the filter to hold it, and lever the banjo fitting with a second wrench or ratchet.<br />
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I just "cracked" the torque on the end you see above to relieve any pressure in the line and to let some of the gas drip out. I had a rag on the axle just below the filter so it didn't splatter much, and a bucket on the ground to catch the gas. Then I let the gas drip out into the bucket for about 20 minutes before I started on the other side.<br />
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Important: wear safety glasses when you do this job. The fuel could spray, and in any event you WILL have gas that drips out. I also wore disposable gloves. It's one thing to get some gas on your skin, that's not good, but you DO NOT want to get it in your eyes. When I loosened the fittings, I made sure I was not directly under the filter.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzOCM9_bwHzV2eH6KAwrhMkNoM8ojc11Hqfq33CE8rR2imSZCSMmPj5-IBSLyWx2QO0foy2KMqEQNAcMxGCJtPV1HOEkEiHgxrujz4IQ4TYGpA9M6YKN2OpQZyWHF7eM6ssVuXKxwJZCaJ/s1600/spanner-combination-wrench-husky-27mm-saab-900-fuel-filter-removal-bargain.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzOCM9_bwHzV2eH6KAwrhMkNoM8ojc11Hqfq33CE8rR2imSZCSMmPj5-IBSLyWx2QO0foy2KMqEQNAcMxGCJtPV1HOEkEiHgxrujz4IQ4TYGpA9M6YKN2OpQZyWHF7eM6ssVuXKxwJZCaJ/s320/spanner-combination-wrench-husky-27mm-saab-900-fuel-filter-removal-bargain.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I had to procure a new wrench for this job. Here you see my new 27mm combination wrench. The largest I had previously was a 24mm. Who knows when I'll need it again, but considering it only cost me $11 (!) at the Despot and is pretty hefty, I'm a happy boy.<br />
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After all, you can never have enough tools.<br />
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Now on to the other end of the filter.<br />
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To cut to the chase: there wasn't a lot of clearance between the outlet end and the spring, so I couldn't get a 1/2 inch drive ratchet or breaker bar onto the nut.<br />
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I couldn't budge it with my shorter 3/8 drive breaker bar, so I slipped an aluminum tube over the 3/8 bar to get more leverage. The bar was leftover from a shower caddy I installed a couple weeks ago. I thought it might come in handy, and I hung on to it.<br />
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With the "extension" I was able to get the outlet end bolt off. Sorry, no pictures, you'll have to visualize it!<br />
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After the two bolts had been freed up a bit and some gas drained off, I decided to try and loosen the bolt holding the mounting strap. You can see it in this shot - the fastener is a hex/allen screw. It takes an HW4 (I assume it's 4mm) drive.<br />
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And it came off with no problem at all.<br />
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Then I set about removing the banjo fittings all the way. More gas came out. Surprise.<br />
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I realized also after loosening the strap bolt that I probably could have slid the filter to the right, away from the spring enough to get a larger wrench on that side. Live and learn.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWptVHL5FFpteerMVA7RmlefVsRix6SpvXVa37CJx7c4k6F1BHUMvxRhyphenhyphenYMi0vNE8DgmY2x51B2LT0Nojh5h65lG6OJWTPbjKsAhaunCwZX3gYRD_LPaFtd_aPRa7HqgYdJNR63FE1ITyB/s1600/fuel-filter-fitting-removed-banjo-bolt-saab-900.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWptVHL5FFpteerMVA7RmlefVsRix6SpvXVa37CJx7c4k6F1BHUMvxRhyphenhyphenYMi0vNE8DgmY2x51B2LT0Nojh5h65lG6OJWTPbjKsAhaunCwZX3gYRD_LPaFtd_aPRa7HqgYdJNR63FE1ITyB/s320/fuel-filter-fitting-removed-banjo-bolt-saab-900.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the inlet banjo fitting removed. At this point I was breathing a sigh of relief.<br />
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I undid the other end and got ready to take the filter off.<br />
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I was able to loosen the strap enough to get the filter out without removing the screw. I was concerned putting that screw back in would be a hassle and fortunately I avoided it entirely.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp8XLIevSV_MuVbjrSbmNMXA5LgVZWx191JRdmNuo1CiVD_kW6Y-dE1-r1zZOQ3b2WLp-q_EM7r5RgCrrzJIadpcPIgPOmIBdVdqxWIJMVUBLCGZJ04vMvQDCiFh1P1kq2UQY8vogf66Uk/s1600/removing-old-fuel-filter-draining-gas-petrol-saab-900.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp8XLIevSV_MuVbjrSbmNMXA5LgVZWx191JRdmNuo1CiVD_kW6Y-dE1-r1zZOQ3b2WLp-q_EM7r5RgCrrzJIadpcPIgPOmIBdVdqxWIJMVUBLCGZJ04vMvQDCiFh1P1kq2UQY8vogf66Uk/s320/removing-old-fuel-filter-draining-gas-petrol-saab-900.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Slide the filter out and hold it over your bucket.<br />
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It holds a fair amount of gas. You can see it draining in this arty picture I took.<br />
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Then empty your bucket into another container you can seal and take to your local transfer station. I thought I might be able to put the gas into the gas can I use for my lawnmower, but it looked filthy. So disposal it will be.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl1Qw80RT8iDv89o0irECBuAQI0cL2CK7-nhhm31rHtmBDBPwyaySQ34G3id9LGyuu7-oeLzEffnYwk_6pFRQ5gq8mQvdOPSk0vgThABgTnw274WPAAZkyew1JWSiQep2VsfWvWT-NGOD5/s1600/comparison-bosch-fuel-filters-fit-saab-900-two-models.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl1Qw80RT8iDv89o0irECBuAQI0cL2CK7-nhhm31rHtmBDBPwyaySQ34G3id9LGyuu7-oeLzEffnYwk_6pFRQ5gq8mQvdOPSk0vgThABgTnw274WPAAZkyew1JWSiQep2VsfWvWT-NGOD5/s320/comparison-bosch-fuel-filters-fit-saab-900-two-models.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The old filter is on the right and the new one on the left. Interesting that the flanged end is reversed on each one. They also carry different Bosch numbers - who knows how long the old one had been on the car. But clearly the design changed a bit over the years.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-IuhYTWA34-jchw4g3HWOX5Olp5GqUi2sN5M-huz8Q8BjlCv9Z2glNAZ-LLwOuVp5qclGBPP8Tw0J8br3kLvoLgCUoA30qEs5zAIo-Vt8mk9DNn8_N5ZNoaicKnrk7IGKDTYxNcmK4iix/s1600/fuel-fitting-filter-banjo-bolts-washers-seals-saab-c900-new.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-IuhYTWA34-jchw4g3HWOX5Olp5GqUi2sN5M-huz8Q8BjlCv9Z2glNAZ-LLwOuVp5qclGBPP8Tw0J8br3kLvoLgCUoA30qEs5zAIo-Vt8mk9DNn8_N5ZNoaicKnrk7IGKDTYxNcmK4iix/s320/fuel-fitting-filter-banjo-bolts-washers-seals-saab-c900-new.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here we have the two banjo fittings, their old copper crush washers, along with a bag containing new washers.<br />
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Don't reuse the old washers. There is a 90% chance they will leak.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRwCiZFFYMwUQFqLTdYG469WsME5uDJxEXTir9OiMqlzfBYpsaE1UMfEN3W4EO8XO8QUDsEc7XW8gy9hb4CZ_vYfaeIDSkYs4jNhYa_VGFNmNPjU_TPj1X0S-j7hJUFUt5Bcz2uIv37_nH/s1600/banjo-fitting-bolt-washer-saab-c900-fuel-filter.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRwCiZFFYMwUQFqLTdYG469WsME5uDJxEXTir9OiMqlzfBYpsaE1UMfEN3W4EO8XO8QUDsEc7XW8gy9hb4CZ_vYfaeIDSkYs4jNhYa_VGFNmNPjU_TPj1X0S-j7hJUFUt5Bcz2uIv37_nH/s320/banjo-fitting-bolt-washer-saab-c900-fuel-filter.png" width="320" /></a></div>
One washer goes next to the hex head on the bolt, and the other goes against the filter's body.<br />
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Put it all back together. You don't need to tighten the bolts up too tightly.<br />
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Sorry for the bad photo - it was dark under there and my camera had a one second shutter speed.<br />
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Don't forget to tighten up the bolt for the mounting strap as well.<br />
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All done. Nice and clean. Too bad nobody will see it.<br />
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At this point, start the car and check for leaks. My car ran for a second on the fuel still in the line, then stalled. Then it cranked for a second and started right up.<br />
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It's running well now, haven't had any stumble. But mainly it was peace of mind to get this done.<br />
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<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-85840535270205825142019-07-02T16:42:00.003-04:002019-07-02T16:43:10.170-04:00Installing Brew City Boost Bypass Valve (BPV) in SAAB c900My trusty c900 convertible, Greeny, has had some annoying driveability issues since her conversion to Trionic 5 (aka T5) engine management a couple years ago. Mainly occasional uneven 'hunting' idle, but sometimes just dying entirely. Not all the time, but sometimes, which is frustrating to track down.<br />
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It sure feels like a vacuum leak. I went through and replaced all the old vacuum lines with silicone and recently relocated the MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor much closer to the intake. All of this made for major improvement but still I had the occasional issue which I wanted to resolve. Aside from the sometime annoyance, life with T5 is fabulous, what with 18 psi of boost (!) and much better throttle response. When the boost comes on, hang onto your hat!<br />
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One thing I had not done was replace the old Bosch turbocharger bypass valve (BPV). I read where a sticky or failing BPV could result in the type of thing I was seeing, especially the odd just dying sometimes instead of coming back to idle. The purpose of the BPV is to dump boost pressure away from the intake when the throttle valve is shut - the pressure would otherwise have nowhere to go, so the BPV allows it to exit from the intake. If the BPV is leaking or sticky, it can create driveability issues.<br />
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With all that in mind, I set about installing a new BPV. I didn't want to just replace the factory BPV with the same thing, since it's plastic and notorious for sticking. I briefly considered the <a href="https://www.do88.se/en/artiklar/gfb-dv-tms-diverter-valve.html" target="_blank">GFB valve</a>, but $200 was a bit pricey. In searching around, I found <a href="https://www.do88.se/en/artiklar/gfb-dv-tms-diverter-valve.html" target="_blank">Brew City boost</a> and their 'knockoff' BPV.<br />
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BCB markets their BPV for NG900s, 9000s, 9-3s, etc. There is no mention of a c900. But the BPV is the same, it's just in a different place.<br />
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Surely it will work...bwhahahahahha.<br />
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This is not a difficult job - you just need to make note of how the pipes, connectors and vacuum lines are connected. Take pictures or make drawings to ensure it all goes back the same way.<br />
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You can see the BPV is a bit buried under the pressure and intake pipes. We just need to remove them to get at it.<br />
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My (gloved) hand is on the pressure (silver) and intake (black) pipes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJBRn8tfK86PuUR3vhVIaMVR67kROhk4bG48uD40ACPn0COn84tlOm4q-jgPevvQNdRTmiIN_jzEC60UdV161YSn22BxSTV-57cbM7LDj9CuwrKjAg6J7jRHx90QNsK13ls37S2FoUVQpY/s1600/removing-disconnecting-turbo-outlet-boost-pipe-saab-c900.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJBRn8tfK86PuUR3vhVIaMVR67kROhk4bG48uD40ACPn0COn84tlOm4q-jgPevvQNdRTmiIN_jzEC60UdV161YSn22BxSTV-57cbM7LDj9CuwrKjAg6J7jRHx90QNsK13ls37S2FoUVQpY/s320/removing-disconnecting-turbo-outlet-boost-pipe-saab-c900.png" width="320" /></a></div>
We undo the clamp on off the turbo's compressor side. Put a clean towel in the outlet after you get the hose off so you don't drop anything down there!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0UrzlzPGmoB7E49gexLm0R_BsSDQyHFieixbxP3GFpQv0HhIp5iTRbfL0ZMMbj9M43GtEjELc5mQHjNFuAmhR5DJJub6c3-wJVnUAfD6ATK68MtHNqd82Amf1sZF_0K3zvptPiMGQmCA0/s1600/removing-disconnecting-turbo-saab-c900-boost-pipe-clamp.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0UrzlzPGmoB7E49gexLm0R_BsSDQyHFieixbxP3GFpQv0HhIp5iTRbfL0ZMMbj9M43GtEjELc5mQHjNFuAmhR5DJJub6c3-wJVnUAfD6ATK68MtHNqd82Amf1sZF_0K3zvptPiMGQmCA0/s320/removing-disconnecting-turbo-saab-c900-boost-pipe-clamp.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Undo the other end of the pipe where it connects to the intercooler.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRHoDr7vk199wC1_zfCH0Dk5xYDZBu7S3z2FBmYF-aczyFUBoG5AAkjleMrmKjZBPjKTfGzacNvzcdf4YlKrXawytN-qZGsQRW5YKk0LMyVa0O0FCFCrE0ptS4RsSX4aVAHP63hO7zTM79/s1600/saab-c900-turbo-to-intercooler-boost-pipe-removed-clamps-hose.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRHoDr7vk199wC1_zfCH0Dk5xYDZBu7S3z2FBmYF-aczyFUBoG5AAkjleMrmKjZBPjKTfGzacNvzcdf4YlKrXawytN-qZGsQRW5YKk0LMyVa0O0FCFCrE0ptS4RsSX4aVAHP63hO7zTM79/s320/saab-c900-turbo-to-intercooler-boost-pipe-removed-clamps-hose.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the pressure pipe removed.<br />
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Note that depending on the ease of access and tightness of the clamp fittings, I used a nut driver, a socket, or a screwdriver to undo the clamps as I went along.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG7n97axvNLJyjZPP8e-BJuqQwrwYOyy3m00O9ynohUSnfH_mvVaJzQ83t7Kl650XZelnE42mJv1dg4xv5CWB1B_Df56kRMcFMzFva8WWJc-CvA9upHodjrsGuqVgvd77nEa_biT-podVb/s1600/saab-c900-trionic-t5-conversion-boost-control-valve-vacuum-hose-line-to-intake-pipe-hose.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG7n97axvNLJyjZPP8e-BJuqQwrwYOyy3m00O9ynohUSnfH_mvVaJzQ83t7Kl650XZelnE42mJv1dg4xv5CWB1B_Df56kRMcFMzFva8WWJc-CvA9upHodjrsGuqVgvd77nEa_biT-podVb/s320/saab-c900-trionic-t5-conversion-boost-control-valve-vacuum-hose-line-to-intake-pipe-hose.png" width="320" /></a></div>
There are vacuum lines running from the boost control valve to the turbo, the turbo's blowoff value (not the BPV) and the intake pipe. You'll need to undo a couple of these for the pipes to clear.<br />
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Note that this valve is part of the T5 system. Mine is mounted on the panel above the radiator. Stock 900s don't have this.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq_CLaZuVRQ00I0o6ODvpfOP56Ncsi6PyyhrPMNJnanVs3N46bu685cRjsTqMZ6Kan1d-7GsoEJ_G13LNNqllDc6MoiQXOq1rusaCMe_00badhyphenhyphenP-eigR2vajHQvLJXCGSwjU74qc0jxdA/s1600/disconnecting-removing-clamp-c900-saab-turbo-intake-pipe.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq_CLaZuVRQ00I0o6ODvpfOP56Ncsi6PyyhrPMNJnanVs3N46bu685cRjsTqMZ6Kan1d-7GsoEJ_G13LNNqllDc6MoiQXOq1rusaCMe_00badhyphenhyphenP-eigR2vajHQvLJXCGSwjU74qc0jxdA/s320/disconnecting-removing-clamp-c900-saab-turbo-intake-pipe.png" width="320" /></a></div>
More undoing of clamps - here's one end of the intake pipe. This is the airbox end.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVmpS2lCX4rNM3kY48eLTaucANHz4-PXWqctrmlXXhyphenhyphen-fFMXDRQ4zWEa3kmcutIbhHEYNNMtr0nLYTMpLO3t5EbLUW4yITzIAi1HRcvLkuYZqLGel7ZVU2n0Pxmyd3Tt16Tub3hzEJnqwI/s1600/saab-c900-intake-to-turbo-clamp.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVmpS2lCX4rNM3kY48eLTaucANHz4-PXWqctrmlXXhyphenhyphen-fFMXDRQ4zWEa3kmcutIbhHEYNNMtr0nLYTMpLO3t5EbLUW4yITzIAi1HRcvLkuYZqLGel7ZVU2n0Pxmyd3Tt16Tub3hzEJnqwI/s320/saab-c900-intake-to-turbo-clamp.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The turbo end is more recessed but can be reached with a socket and long-ish extension.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH01gczWTXX4C7Ok85zjQF_HlSqliK8u6IdMOx50qdjk6frT-Ro8NgljV2oyqS1KqPVskMbena02fa29v06qqJu3iVh6ZTzw85Up_302o4tXhNP6o_K0NJo8ABhmNoDYp9c2JZ6Yl-h8oF/s1600/saab-c900-turbo-removing-disconnecting-air-filter-to-turbo-hose.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH01gczWTXX4C7Ok85zjQF_HlSqliK8u6IdMOx50qdjk6frT-Ro8NgljV2oyqS1KqPVskMbena02fa29v06qqJu3iVh6ZTzw85Up_302o4tXhNP6o_K0NJo8ABhmNoDYp9c2JZ6Yl-h8oF/s320/saab-c900-turbo-removing-disconnecting-air-filter-to-turbo-hose.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I found it easier to disconnect the factory connector to the airbox to help maneuver the pipe off the car.<br />
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The connectors just spring off the airbox.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuxWqCpaF0kt-f_gXUCAhhXDtkg2qgenxWr7MuR813u9rfK_wkK5yLlSpCxF-F8_hniNr2sz0BL-Xjn453JXRAq8qeC2O02mxiWRmCYqfeA8MBtJxaWyZXYn79NjLoLOtF3torzdSt_stV/s1600/saab-turbo-c900-crankcase-ventilation-hose-connector-clamps-to-intake-pipe-hose-screws-attach-location.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuxWqCpaF0kt-f_gXUCAhhXDtkg2qgenxWr7MuR813u9rfK_wkK5yLlSpCxF-F8_hniNr2sz0BL-Xjn453JXRAq8qeC2O02mxiWRmCYqfeA8MBtJxaWyZXYn79NjLoLOtF3torzdSt_stV/s320/saab-turbo-c900-crankcase-ventilation-hose-connector-clamps-to-intake-pipe-hose-screws-attach-location.png" width="320" /></a></div>
One connector that's a bit of a pain is the connector that joins the crankcase breather line - it's steel - into the intake pipe. I used a screwdriver to wedge the connector off.<br />
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The breather pipe fits into a rubber donut on the intake pipe.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg02SwAteU3K1OKdEKyxvZCf_pqbRyMbclSRZ2asMbdKA3YiYgcfxBJ-CqJ5dTBWzlezAY79iA_euEVGRBwF2o6vcJY5DEIjisUqh1LtQMd68Sdbt6DLuJsFGNX4wPoK6n2VW-fYTovU7jq/s1600/c900-saab-disconnecting-vacuum-crankcase-vent-hose-intake-pipe.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg02SwAteU3K1OKdEKyxvZCf_pqbRyMbclSRZ2asMbdKA3YiYgcfxBJ-CqJ5dTBWzlezAY79iA_euEVGRBwF2o6vcJY5DEIjisUqh1LtQMd68Sdbt6DLuJsFGNX4wPoK6n2VW-fYTovU7jq/s320/c900-saab-disconnecting-vacuum-crankcase-vent-hose-intake-pipe.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here it is removed. You can see the pointed end of the breather line and the donut on the pipe. The pipe is pretty much free at this point - I've rotated it a bit for this picture to show the two pieces that fit together.<br />
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You can now pull the intake pipe upward, with the BPV still attached. The clamp on the BPV needs to be loosened - the other end of that smaller hose on the BPV goes up to the intake manifold.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi96ewXLikcMEOfbW3qhwBjUHLD-EtqrbA-Li8EL8c2S_B2-p0PvKEpSv30ANDLOs1wzTSA2ZHz2x_vRgB0sR67W-gIr0diyqjdXmufTlmSzAh4jS84e5NXdh2vZ5XoEDLYdEQ4EWRUvrZt/s1600/saab-c900-bpv-bypass-valve-removing-disconnecting-location.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi96ewXLikcMEOfbW3qhwBjUHLD-EtqrbA-Li8EL8c2S_B2-p0PvKEpSv30ANDLOs1wzTSA2ZHz2x_vRgB0sR67W-gIr0diyqjdXmufTlmSzAh4jS84e5NXdh2vZ5XoEDLYdEQ4EWRUvrZt/s320/saab-c900-bpv-bypass-valve-removing-disconnecting-location.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here I've loosened the BPV clamp - and moved the intake pipe along with the BPV upward to remove from the car.<br />
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I also have removed the end of the BPV's vacuum line. That line connects up near the intake manifold, where it joins two other lines (I show that connection further down).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxEA5bZ8D73FPUtPf9K2uQLV9YoskXe0-1w2jS_Ef_GubI221Lmqhr9-HUHXisGPwBAquAGpBY-7BE6sO0cNNSOE7CGTcVeaZMDoX6ca-UGX7LUQ6cCMXkowyd3YvOceLsNfAqOdruHoSw/s1600/saab-c900-bypass-valve-bpv-intake-pipe-turbo-connection-removing-clamps.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxEA5bZ8D73FPUtPf9K2uQLV9YoskXe0-1w2jS_Ef_GubI221Lmqhr9-HUHXisGPwBAquAGpBY-7BE6sO0cNNSOE7CGTcVeaZMDoX6ca-UGX7LUQ6cCMXkowyd3YvOceLsNfAqOdruHoSw/s320/saab-c900-bypass-valve-bpv-intake-pipe-turbo-connection-removing-clamps.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the intake pipe along with the BPV removed.<br />
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Funny how these wide angle camera shots (I think this is about 28mm focal length here) make the pipe look as big as the engine!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKY6QZZJp5wmbFcfpbH03xnkLZfXUxU9ULz6e58HDPz0YfzeIOOfOz0NqjnmY8mQIRSz6iFJHo2MEn8thCEX3TAL2QZ72T8rgNw0kQ9_qzp7EvwaPplbl1u1kACDxrC-F3yZy4pOB4yT7g/s1600/brew-city-boost-bpv-versus-comparison-stock-bosch-valve-saab-c900.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKY6QZZJp5wmbFcfpbH03xnkLZfXUxU9ULz6e58HDPz0YfzeIOOfOz0NqjnmY8mQIRSz6iFJHo2MEn8thCEX3TAL2QZ72T8rgNw0kQ9_qzp7EvwaPplbl1u1kACDxrC-F3yZy4pOB4yT7g/s320/brew-city-boost-bpv-versus-comparison-stock-bosch-valve-saab-c900.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Comparison between the shiny new Brew City Boost BPV and the stock one.<br />
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The new valve comes with 3 different springs - light, medium and stiff and is rebuildable. Really a nicely made piece. Too bad nobody will see it after it's installed.<br />
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I have the stock (light) spring in for now.<br />
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A shot of the internals showing how nicely made the BCB valve is made. </div>
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Installing the new valve is a reverse of what we did to get the old one out.<br />
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Put the new valve on the intake pipe. I didn't tighten the clamp down all the way so I could move the valve as needed when locating it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAIH488pzKyTJ7jTnr5ehN7usbew74uOetB0LH9rsvHDOl2ive1Fla5aowhWvL9oCRpEitztEmeR-MPeAtd_izLKCf59xVxy0df3LrA9IUfetTmhxWZAhbsNbZvJMsFZdEWC1C7mFH-u-r/s1600/brew-city-boost-saab-c900-location-vacuum-turbo-hose-line.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAIH488pzKyTJ7jTnr5ehN7usbew74uOetB0LH9rsvHDOl2ive1Fla5aowhWvL9oCRpEitztEmeR-MPeAtd_izLKCf59xVxy0df3LrA9IUfetTmhxWZAhbsNbZvJMsFZdEWC1C7mFH-u-r/s320/brew-city-boost-saab-c900-location-vacuum-turbo-hose-line.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here it is tucked into place.<br />
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Note the vacuum nipple on the turbo - that's for one of the lines that goes to the boost control valve.<br />
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Another shot of the new valve in place - with both of those vacuum lines connected. At this point I tightened the clamps on this end.<br />
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Reconnecting the breather line to the intake pipe. We're looking at this connection from the airbox side of the engine.<br />
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This connection was frustrating. The donut is really tight on both the steel line and the intake pipe. The intake pipe is plastic, so it wants to flex under pressure. I wound up popping the donut out of the pipe, slipping it over the breather line, and then into the intake pipe. </div>
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Another angle on the turbo end of the intake pipe. The BPV is just visible in there.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSaf39ZmlIDwX1zZxzGO0WDhghF5X4Fg2YJG-YAiPBDce4TKzHF8lz39B8FNDfxrWNKEexw-e10dmW7LfzO5-6c4dW607EgVJ8BW4rWlWxMbQpzpXwbUr9nptnikmqtXzb2AtZfvlSpG1D/s1600/saab-c900-intercooler-connection-turbo-clamp.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSaf39ZmlIDwX1zZxzGO0WDhghF5X4Fg2YJG-YAiPBDce4TKzHF8lz39B8FNDfxrWNKEexw-e10dmW7LfzO5-6c4dW607EgVJ8BW4rWlWxMbQpzpXwbUr9nptnikmqtXzb2AtZfvlSpG1D/s320/saab-c900-intercooler-connection-turbo-clamp.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Tightening up the clamp on the boost pipe.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1GYw_-JKH-9j2tKThehQkqjbLkVC7PMBLDFPtaol6Yc8dT_pj7F1wm5Iwh6IILA5YVT3kSmle5r9KXvkzlk1CY7DnJCEO0ofUwrGAAmpNRjhYW-e8_aJMPcLSc7JFBsoLV7qRvPA4P5G4/s1600/bpv-vacuum-connection-saab-c900-turbo-map-sensor-intake.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1GYw_-JKH-9j2tKThehQkqjbLkVC7PMBLDFPtaol6Yc8dT_pj7F1wm5Iwh6IILA5YVT3kSmle5r9KXvkzlk1CY7DnJCEO0ofUwrGAAmpNRjhYW-e8_aJMPcLSc7JFBsoLV7qRvPA4P5G4/s320/bpv-vacuum-connection-saab-c900-turbo-map-sensor-intake.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's where the BPV connects at the intake manifold. It's at the same point where the MAP sensor (part of the T5 conversion) connects.<br />
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At first, I had the MAP sensor was on the other side of the engine compartment, but I relocated it to keep its line as short as possible.<br />
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Everything is back together.<br />
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The car is running much better, much less fluctuating idle. It's not dying when returning to idle from high speed, so that's an improvement. And the car seems to build up boost a bit faster than before.<br />
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I'm planning to replace all the old rubber intake lines with silicone ones from Do88 - that's the next project.<br />
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Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-68805330466024638432019-06-18T16:03:00.001-04:002019-06-18T16:03:25.333-04:00Takoma PK-30 Guitar Preamp Repair and Pickguard Removal (Pt 2 of 2)Two more things to take care of on the Takoma guitar.<br />
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First is the pickup. This guitar has an EMG undersaddle pickup with a preamp built into the endpin jack. When plugged in, it had no output.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLR6A8hFWZDIumf0qETMKv7OsSCa2qyYjx7HA5AJl2D3Ko5RhqufD5KuBX6QzKUstFakUoMcKaHaao1ZElWT0AT138ZoukMdc01ytxariwe2WuKBgoO5jfEiWzP9tlljA9NE1FuqT2NSIN/s1600/tacoma-acoustic-guitar-preamp-internal-battery-box-holder-bag-location.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLR6A8hFWZDIumf0qETMKv7OsSCa2qyYjx7HA5AJl2D3Ko5RhqufD5KuBX6QzKUstFakUoMcKaHaao1ZElWT0AT138ZoukMdc01ytxariwe2WuKBgoO5jfEiWzP9tlljA9NE1FuqT2NSIN/s320/tacoma-acoustic-guitar-preamp-internal-battery-box-holder-bag-location.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I took a look inside the guitar and saw a battery bag attached to the side. At this point, I didn't realize there was a preamp - I just figured there was a pickup and no electronics.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlUiUbj4-TaJ0_4H7OXVXv5_qHiUPr-r1sV15Fa8F2zCxASJrUfVkEmGhJNbackZd65IrcPrEGIwgUaijwQmuDBRIwkIYu_ohGNClVOXldHK8GdcZOaLUfJujcwODVP8vhSV-FbO8ZVn8M/s1600/removing-acoustic-guitar-pickup-preamp-battery-tacoma-internal.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlUiUbj4-TaJ0_4H7OXVXv5_qHiUPr-r1sV15Fa8F2zCxASJrUfVkEmGhJNbackZd65IrcPrEGIwgUaijwQmuDBRIwkIYu_ohGNClVOXldHK8GdcZOaLUfJujcwODVP8vhSV-FbO8ZVn8M/s320/removing-acoustic-guitar-pickup-preamp-battery-tacoma-internal.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I reached inside the guitar and opened the battery bag...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7KUch9_6AZZEWckBU2Wlxgxw20f8sn9xhpRNhgAKKuVX0G-KHjJvaeOGjDoQdcNnuezHfnA9yXpJa6VO-2iEkjM-7939BD4JmWOscIl5r45Koxu4kmNzYBOSRo18SL3H4ScQT0xV18UT-/s1600/eveready-industrial-alkaline-9v-battery-acoustic-guitar-internal-preamp-remove.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7KUch9_6AZZEWckBU2Wlxgxw20f8sn9xhpRNhgAKKuVX0G-KHjJvaeOGjDoQdcNnuezHfnA9yXpJa6VO-2iEkjM-7939BD4JmWOscIl5r45Koxu4kmNzYBOSRo18SL3H4ScQT0xV18UT-/s320/eveready-industrial-alkaline-9v-battery-acoustic-guitar-internal-preamp-remove.png" width="320" /></a></div>
...and pulled out this Energizer 'Industrial Alkaline' 9v battery.<br />
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There was no date on the battery, and I figured (hoped) it was dead.<br />
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My beloved Fluke 87 DMM had stopped working a couple of months ago. Fortunately I also have a classic Simpson 260 on the electronics bench.<br />
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Measured the battery's voltage and found it was down to about 6 volts; I'd call that dead.<br />
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(Quick aside on my Fluke. I tried the usual check of the fuses and nothing. I wound up procuring a new Fluke 179 to replace it. Not quite an 87, but a lot cheaper and still plenty of meter for my needs).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiHPwrUhpnOsSs5dbJj8eYdhnwrDaBZSjafEi3XtKdwhteKAyPaECQXZsWUEHe7-x5E0D4lEPYBtDp6HPv0PMQN5Llmx_JKiXNqYSzp8NOOhKfG0uuoZG-p75ejDC7nXGLUIe6i3gvxblI/s1600/internal-pickup-wiring-battery-tacoma-acoustic-guitar-wiring.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiHPwrUhpnOsSs5dbJj8eYdhnwrDaBZSjafEi3XtKdwhteKAyPaECQXZsWUEHe7-x5E0D4lEPYBtDp6HPv0PMQN5Llmx_JKiXNqYSzp8NOOhKfG0uuoZG-p75ejDC7nXGLUIe6i3gvxblI/s320/internal-pickup-wiring-battery-tacoma-acoustic-guitar-wiring.png" width="320" /></a></div>
With a new battery installed, the pickup came to life. Unfortunately, it had a bad hum. Clearly a ground issue.<br />
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I put my inspection mirrors inside the guitar and traced the pickup wiring, trying to find the preamp. You can see the wiring in the picture on the right, which I labelled.<br />
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In the last post on this guitar, I mentioned that someone online claimed this model had laminate sides and back. You can see clearly in this shot that the sides are indeed solid Koa.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYkNoz7l5aawnZ2AuDIytJ9lrWqzyvsCGoWHnjpRPCuPTH4aNc6EIcGavoYp5SJC5RGcuGhKKt0zH0RiilUXIJhxSGbfJ4QBS-BgjRrtPYsxkGG0InTPC-bWP-HNUEPJiAs_9VI0vYOLbn/s1600/takoma-pk-30-removing-end-pin-jack-preamp.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYkNoz7l5aawnZ2AuDIytJ9lrWqzyvsCGoWHnjpRPCuPTH4aNc6EIcGavoYp5SJC5RGcuGhKKt0zH0RiilUXIJhxSGbfJ4QBS-BgjRrtPYsxkGG0InTPC-bWP-HNUEPJiAs_9VI0vYOLbn/s320/takoma-pk-30-removing-end-pin-jack-preamp.png" width="320" /></a></div>
After poking around inside and not seeing a preamp board, I figured it must be in the endpin/jack.<br />
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The strap button on the endpin doesn't screw on - instead, the whole assembly slides right out of the endpin hole. You can see the little round nubs that contact the end block and keep the jack from easily popping out.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2EyI7enbcoXsb6wk7_hdf7mD_60yFtpW8u2HGwAl_PdDfbEi0hK56IJtWXo8QL-zDbKYPQWk49emipmh6vIkS2YMaa4CAJ3oUk-rcZlXvXsIbNNKva26tBHsxy_oX2VFs7FsRT0uivwSS/s1600/emg-acoustic-preamp-endpin-circuit-board-wiring.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2EyI7enbcoXsb6wk7_hdf7mD_60yFtpW8u2HGwAl_PdDfbEi0hK56IJtWXo8QL-zDbKYPQWk49emipmh6vIkS2YMaa4CAJ3oUk-rcZlXvXsIbNNKva26tBHsxy_oX2VFs7FsRT0uivwSS/s320/emg-acoustic-preamp-endpin-circuit-board-wiring.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The jack is in two halves which unscrew to access the preamp board.<br />
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It looked to me as if the ground tab on the pickup's shielded lead had come off the board. And sure enough, when I grounded the shield, the hum went away.<br />
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(Note the "EMG" on the board).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUl9xeFtAPUCT8vSX0EXFgiLFlugOicOkVEdvw92dH2zoo0hsTsfuH2giA56WBm8kx-YFRF0q9VxVIu342bSJWJc6T26m3nu8naIsWXPn7Yg9NXGN4FzBuGPTzEJ5gZgQQL9nTIQXg6For/s1600/emg-acoustic-internal-preamp-ground-fix-hum-lead-wire.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUl9xeFtAPUCT8vSX0EXFgiLFlugOicOkVEdvw92dH2zoo0hsTsfuH2giA56WBm8kx-YFRF0q9VxVIu342bSJWJc6T26m3nu8naIsWXPn7Yg9NXGN4FzBuGPTzEJ5gZgQQL9nTIQXg6For/s320/emg-acoustic-internal-preamp-ground-fix-hum-lead-wire.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Rather than try and resolder the tab which came off the board, I decided to run a new ground lead from the shield to a ground on the board. You can see the blue lead I used. One end is wrapped around the shield, and the other lead is soldered to a tab that's shared with the battery's negative lead.<br />
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You may look at this and say "hey, why didn't you solder the ground onto the shield.<br />
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Good question! Originally, I did. And the guitar worked, but it now had an intermittent hum and signal drop out! What had happened is that the heat from the solder on the shield had partially melted the insulation on the pickup's hot side (white wire), shorting it out. It's a tiny wire, about 26 gauge. So on Round Two, I just tightly wrapped the ground wire around the shield, which is what you see above. I would have preferred to solder it, but the wrap is good and tight and won't come off.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNQWQw-EWvHTN93mHhb-OEqXLvfGuE4juwAjwYpYQr1ePmau2j4tBazFNsvPTiw6C0T4eT8WxkBdv6T19_TqjT27tvELCsJcIyIos5L5lni5m_RjVhDoV7VcKhXlJTHMQ_7gamjw-ovXpv/s1600/emg-acoustic-preamp-gain-volume-control-internal.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNQWQw-EWvHTN93mHhb-OEqXLvfGuE4juwAjwYpYQr1ePmau2j4tBazFNsvPTiw6C0T4eT8WxkBdv6T19_TqjT27tvELCsJcIyIos5L5lni5m_RjVhDoV7VcKhXlJTHMQ_7gamjw-ovXpv/s320/emg-acoustic-preamp-gain-volume-control-internal.png" width="320" /></a></div>
One other note on the preamp is that there's a gain trimpot on one side of the board. It was set at about 1/4 volume, so I turned it up a touch to have a bit more gain. If you have this kind of preamp, you can experiment to find a good setting for decent output, but not too high as to make any taps or thumps on the body too loud.<br />
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In the process of sliding the preamp out, the clip holding the battery and pickup lead popped off. I just used some double-sided tape to put it back on. You don't want to leave any wiring hanging free where it can rattle against the body.<br />
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The second item is the pickguard.<br />
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My friend who belongs to the guitar wanted to take the clear pickguard off. You can see how it's developed a wrinkle over time and looks bad.<br />
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I heated it up a little with a heat gun on its lowest setting. Maybe 10 seconds at a time, just enough to help the adhesive loosen up.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU6yg6pyrOq15MjL6klCpAt3Ux8bLYG_1Ie6lEJ2-VsVh1J3hyoVWb-22TWqVSgYuSThhIYL-ereIlYCspOvv4lEVbDry9cSIhv52te6U6gq846jbSn3LN79WW90fRisqe3WSFFfwkSVnY/s1600/removing-clear-adhesive-stick-on-tool-diy-pickguard-acoustic-guitar-plastic-takoma.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU6yg6pyrOq15MjL6klCpAt3Ux8bLYG_1Ie6lEJ2-VsVh1J3hyoVWb-22TWqVSgYuSThhIYL-ereIlYCspOvv4lEVbDry9cSIhv52te6U6gq846jbSn3LN79WW90fRisqe3WSFFfwkSVnY/s320/removing-clear-adhesive-stick-on-tool-diy-pickguard-acoustic-guitar-plastic-takoma.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I also made a little triangular tool out of pine to get under the edges and lift it up. The soft wood won't scratch the finish.<br />
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Eventually the whole pickguard comes off. It's pretty thin, unlike a typical plastic guard.<br />
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There was some adhesive residue left, so I put some thick Goo Gone on it, let it sit a few second and then worked it off.<br />
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The little scrape worked great to get that reside off - you can see it in this shot.<br />
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The final step was to use Virtuoso cleaner and polish to polish the whole guitar.<br />
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You really need to make sure you clean the finish first, just like you would a car's paint, before you use any polish. Otherwise you're grinding any dirt into the finish, which just puts scratches into the finish.<br />
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For really filthy instruments, I'll use a weak mixture of Simple Green to get the nastiest stuff off. But this guitar is in such good shape, I just went to the cleaner first, then the polish.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOlJssm0XPQcVp2wmJkb1-UdgxYABizlay4hWVGubavX0LGTMn3LvX1vmegN9_WgyAiJ7ncxg53XHqoQslMhyphenhyphen9SFZElmEqxjJkuKCZ8iXl6wGuA9rp_fo8iBq2pGLrAEj2KuxuMjVdUnsK/s1600/polishing-guitar-virtuoso-koa-product.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOlJssm0XPQcVp2wmJkb1-UdgxYABizlay4hWVGubavX0LGTMn3LvX1vmegN9_WgyAiJ7ncxg53XHqoQslMhyphenhyphen9SFZElmEqxjJkuKCZ8iXl6wGuA9rp_fo8iBq2pGLrAEj2KuxuMjVdUnsK/s320/polishing-guitar-virtuoso-koa-product.png" width="320" /></a></div>
It's so much fun to polish when the instrument is so beautiful!<br />
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Here's the spot where the pickguard was - looks great.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHgwzajchTZ-HfSqMXgV6H-eGoqq5IVlTj1nx-gjXto5NheAokatuHXXhq2pEN6xw5eyRa2ChpL66k-iFEOCW1iUD5dYh4iPEu3qOaL-JRQYvKkkEQGi6ZTtRKh_dY_LFIQ2ZXkIivGfD8/s1600/tacoma-guitar-back-koa-flame-ripples-chatoyance-beautiful.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHgwzajchTZ-HfSqMXgV6H-eGoqq5IVlTj1nx-gjXto5NheAokatuHXXhq2pEN6xw5eyRa2ChpL66k-iFEOCW1iUD5dYh4iPEu3qOaL-JRQYvKkkEQGi6ZTtRKh_dY_LFIQ2ZXkIivGfD8/s320/tacoma-guitar-back-koa-flame-ripples-chatoyance-beautiful.png" width="320" /></a></div>
One more shot of the koa before I bid adieu to this guitar.<br />
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It's hard to photograph it, but there is a real 3D quality to the flame. From a couple of angles, it looks like there are ridges and peaks and valleys in the wood! Really fabulous.<br />
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<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-79267897783183934542019-06-11T16:50:00.002-04:002019-06-11T16:50:57.773-04:00Takoma PK-30 Guitar Set-up and Crack Repair (Pt 1 of 2)In the last few weeks I've had two koa instruments on the workbench, and this one makes three!<br />
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I love koa. I want to build a koa shed on Moloka'i and build instruments there.<br />
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This is a Takoma PK-30 guitar, built in Tacoma, Washington. Takoma guitars were made there from 1997 to 2008. Fender acquired the company with plans to move production to Connecticut, but it never happened.<br />
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This particular guitar was finished on February 28, 2001. It's pretty typical - very high quality tonewoods, some striking cosmetics, and fine tone.<br />
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It's in for a minor setup and a crack repair. While working on it, I discovered the built-in preamp had an issue, and I also removed the clear pickguard per the owner's request. I'll talk about the setup and crack repair here, with the other repairs in the next post.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRGLJTa1QP7ATQ5eSjwTWrBs09h8NIcu6worcZVBCOnpK2Tdmn5Uthl98hYcKgD-flGUp12aXwHiV5dPBh99-0E_ADKnMFnB3xwwaxra_vLAeeabtFUn-PwkWhKlliDa2lr70IRywZknSp/s1600/tacoma-pk30-guitar-makers-label-name-inside.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRGLJTa1QP7ATQ5eSjwTWrBs09h8NIcu6worcZVBCOnpK2Tdmn5Uthl98hYcKgD-flGUp12aXwHiV5dPBh99-0E_ADKnMFnB3xwwaxra_vLAeeabtFUn-PwkWhKlliDa2lr70IRywZknSp/s320/tacoma-pk30-guitar-makers-label-name-inside.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the builder's label.<br />
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I read a post on the interwebs where someone said the sides and backs on these guitars were laminate. Uh, no. You can clearly see the koa on the inside in this shot. It's solid wood throughout.<br />
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Another 'expert' debunked.<br />
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The top is nice spruce - I believe it's Sitka. And the back and sides are fantastic flamed koa.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBCsxNlZYY0hUHSy8XueDqodj8EJ50iz8DiG9NuwnEq-xhSHqUGIKJ9uZnWOfj43tHvW3dHkoDqwLwAhG2wnmEx9e0dfCjQl-JQ-DGSyb9hUzM4ZFujz9IoDzjIs3QYKe0RCXczzcjBvsK/s1600/takoma-pk30-guitar-headstock-koa-name-label.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBCsxNlZYY0hUHSy8XueDqodj8EJ50iz8DiG9NuwnEq-xhSHqUGIKJ9uZnWOfj43tHvW3dHkoDqwLwAhG2wnmEx9e0dfCjQl-JQ-DGSyb9hUzM4ZFujz9IoDzjIs3QYKe0RCXczzcjBvsK/s320/takoma-pk30-guitar-headstock-koa-name-label.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The headstock has a nice koa veneer. Note the shape of the truss rod cover - that 'curve' theme is carried on to the fret markers and the bridge.<br />
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A fret marker. Very nice, huh?<br />
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The bridge is really neat. It's made of rosewood, and has a cool curved shape.<br />
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The guitar plays nicely, but I noted just a touch of extra relief in the neck. I'm using a feeler gauge to measure the relief at the 8th fret here. <br />
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You can see we have about .011 inch, or .279mm.<br />
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I can take some of that out and the guitar will play a little better in the middle of the neck.<br />
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I always mark the location of the truss rod nut before I make any adjustments so I have a reference point.<br />
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Then I loosen the nut fully and see how many turns it makes coming back up to this point before I go further. We really shouldn't be going much beyond a full turn on the nut - any more than that could over-tension the rod and break it.<br />
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On this guitar, the nut had gone about a half-turn to this mark - meaning we have plenty of adjustment left.<br />
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Here we are using a nutdriver to turn the nut...well, duh.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT0VksBf758uiZMDe4X9pGeB8toL9TNq3zN1eqAzbWuT4MUGnb4Ht70oyZ4HwOVoVKKJ6NLlAYqWnX48JV-B5KnadS4pGHOq476j5SJ9HdaBF6b48glsEqGd4NslYto9bdi-0Sa7dj7iCa/s1600/adjust-guitar-truss-rod-feeler-gauge-measure-straight-edge-distance-amount-relief.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT0VksBf758uiZMDe4X9pGeB8toL9TNq3zN1eqAzbWuT4MUGnb4Ht70oyZ4HwOVoVKKJ6NLlAYqWnX48JV-B5KnadS4pGHOq476j5SJ9HdaBF6b48glsEqGd4NslYto9bdi-0Sa7dj7iCa/s320/adjust-guitar-truss-rod-feeler-gauge-measure-straight-edge-distance-amount-relief.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I got the relief down to about .004 of an inch. At this point, there were a couple points on the low E string where it was buzzing a touch, so I backed it out.<br />
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The final measurement was about .006. The nut wound up being turned just about an eighth of a turn past the original mark.<br />
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The action at the nut was nice and low and the string height at the 12th fret was about 5/64 on the bass side and maybe 4/64 on the treble - really ideal. I didn't touch the nut or the saddle at all. The guitar had been nicely set up already.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcdSar5wLFb9yGUQT9nzuEko0cZaNyvbIz9Kmb_xkNCUKYSgkFcRklWXOIt0YStvfkhgAz5WG9U9TR1u9FSHnaIu-Wa5kzDcLzhKnzFLjxdHN3NFTVmQa4CYogW6zWtO26BO58-KyofZLA/s1600/crack-side-koa-body-guitar-tacoma-pk-30-repair.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcdSar5wLFb9yGUQT9nzuEko0cZaNyvbIz9Kmb_xkNCUKYSgkFcRklWXOIt0YStvfkhgAz5WG9U9TR1u9FSHnaIu-Wa5kzDcLzhKnzFLjxdHN3NFTVmQa4CYogW6zWtO26BO58-KyofZLA/s320/crack-side-koa-body-guitar-tacoma-pk-30-repair.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Now to repair the crack. The guitar was accidentally hit against the edge of a table. We've all done it. The hit cause a short crack on the lower bout, which you can see here.<br />
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Above this crack is a spot where the finish cracked due to the hit. You'll see more of that later.<br />
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The wood above the crack is indented a touch below the surface of the side. Usually I can gently pop a crack like this flat, but this one was very tight and immovable from the outside.<br />
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This is a good thing, because it hasn't had time to spread and open up at all.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhejlUOwo80lD0cL36NwSEAFykSEKLL43ftfjuYTcMvF95C4v6J_1zl75Iw5sFqYPqdpUw0judWjDrjt5fhp_MzKKfefU_e7CFsIK30C3NilfQotSMK-zAJexu2Rl4833aja9KBUcWG_f8Z/s1600/chopstick-push-crack-guitar-side-repair-align-pop.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhejlUOwo80lD0cL36NwSEAFykSEKLL43ftfjuYTcMvF95C4v6J_1zl75Iw5sFqYPqdpUw0judWjDrjt5fhp_MzKKfefU_e7CFsIK30C3NilfQotSMK-zAJexu2Rl4833aja9KBUcWG_f8Z/s320/chopstick-push-crack-guitar-side-repair-align-pop.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I wasn't able to reach the crack from the inside of the guitar - my fingers fell about 3 inches shy of the area where the crack was.<br />
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So I grabbed a wood chopstick and went to work. These are the 'disposable' kind. I keep them around (unused!) for these kinds of jobs.<br />
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They're also great for poking around the internals of troubleshooting live amplifiers or radios without getting shocked.<br />
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I was able to gently push the top of the crack out level with the side.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfFYkV2YVacaRnoNqy6FjunjkY8EA5xlUIwEHTDRtHfEqMFDuHeJf8Ab3NJUifBe1dwJKOpI244GxliNNi-YL65PpC8cr8qbJ4ZDOGP67UY60d-3SsMxH8_PXR6ARcZQMcSWut8PbKeJMt/s1600/cleaning-crack-guitar-wood-repair-naptha-glue-side.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfFYkV2YVacaRnoNqy6FjunjkY8EA5xlUIwEHTDRtHfEqMFDuHeJf8Ab3NJUifBe1dwJKOpI244GxliNNi-YL65PpC8cr8qbJ4ZDOGP67UY60d-3SsMxH8_PXR6ARcZQMcSWut8PbKeJMt/s320/cleaning-crack-guitar-wood-repair-naptha-glue-side.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Wipe down the area to be repaired with naptha to get any dirt, wax or oils off.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjozhXRz3FZAxleEHlhD_K1q_XUNwSCr-9FnzVsWWo07fYnvpjG5r46FHfL_R1m8p9ho1s1J5Wa8sXUJjLrF1dTXWYMuGB_xzxHKcLYHxdQAnYiLUNYMrEW8CvY3ie392Za3Nsk7-usPBzY/s1600/blow-gun-glue-crack-guitar-repair-pressure-air-into-force-align-solid.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjozhXRz3FZAxleEHlhD_K1q_XUNwSCr-9FnzVsWWo07fYnvpjG5r46FHfL_R1m8p9ho1s1J5Wa8sXUJjLrF1dTXWYMuGB_xzxHKcLYHxdQAnYiLUNYMrEW8CvY3ie392Za3Nsk7-usPBzY/s320/blow-gun-glue-crack-guitar-repair-pressure-air-into-force-align-solid.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I just got this little blow gun as part of a <a href="https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Clamps/StewMac_Crack_Repair_Tools.html" target="_blank">crack repair tool kit</a> from Stew-Mac. It comes with a super cool bit to make cleats and glue them inside an instrument. I haven't tried the cleat tool yet, but this job was a great opportunity to test the gun.<br />
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It's just the sort of blow gun you see at The Despot, except that it has a suction cup on the end.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFxChsMAxgn9WOSHHRh50Ps7Tr6QeqSb5xwS6fRp6BlbSke6J-bbH8PG6zLzi4NIhZNgPOCdE5lbjLTMJWUzGot23ZxtuIxPMy2JvWGET39zUJ5TMf4GLpA7VJshAzZbRHa4bGipSpMnfG/s1600/air-blow-gun-suction-cup-tool-guitar-crack-repair-compressor-fitting.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFxChsMAxgn9WOSHHRh50Ps7Tr6QeqSb5xwS6fRp6BlbSke6J-bbH8PG6zLzi4NIhZNgPOCdE5lbjLTMJWUzGot23ZxtuIxPMy2JvWGET39zUJ5TMf4GLpA7VJshAzZbRHa4bGipSpMnfG/s320/air-blow-gun-suction-cup-tool-guitar-crack-repair-compressor-fitting.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Connect it to a compressor running about 10 psi.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDhjD9DWW_Nz_SsQNlXHZ63SAsyCWppN4IZ1R3I73-_sWMcF_nXG8T5QVbphx4IjDHZtXy2-hDEI5t2rDxsQfpFYcgPxHiIusdy8oxITX0o3JToM5SfGcND-SmV1go_KV-Tg7oXnoHlESz/s1600/gluing-repairing-acoustic-guitar-side-crack-koa-thin-titebond-force-compress-air-blow-gun.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDhjD9DWW_Nz_SsQNlXHZ63SAsyCWppN4IZ1R3I73-_sWMcF_nXG8T5QVbphx4IjDHZtXy2-hDEI5t2rDxsQfpFYcgPxHiIusdy8oxITX0o3JToM5SfGcND-SmV1go_KV-Tg7oXnoHlESz/s320/gluing-repairing-acoustic-guitar-side-crack-koa-thin-titebond-force-compress-air-blow-gun.png" width="320" /></a></div>
On the Stew-Mac video, Dan Erlewine says that thinning Titebond a bit with water will help the glue really get into the crack.<br />
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You can see here how I brushed the glue on, then used the gun at that low pressure to get the glue into the crack.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUym0xa_fCz3c2JcMfAkvvh2eUsvqu3NtbIv0vO4hSswZvgWqaRmaZYaJWLXp-T-B_WSE1B5akbyndcH353vY9r77FkGiefm3aISiiMAZyPQdF87OG4naG1aEqVB9g2IPHXVF5mzEEHmse/s1600/crack-repair-koa-guitar-side-glue-spread.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUym0xa_fCz3c2JcMfAkvvh2eUsvqu3NtbIv0vO4hSswZvgWqaRmaZYaJWLXp-T-B_WSE1B5akbyndcH353vY9r77FkGiefm3aISiiMAZyPQdF87OG4naG1aEqVB9g2IPHXVF5mzEEHmse/s320/crack-repair-koa-guitar-side-glue-spread.png" width="320" /></a></div>
You can see the crack here before I wiped off all of the excess glue. The glue really got into the crack. The crack was so tight I was concerned not much would get into it, but the gun really helped.<br />
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The gun is definitely a good thing to have in your...ahem...arsenal.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKVWwRdqe_mYXrZPsxKCMZ9xVMH8Hn6wZfcm7UvjPBulpqLQZJDd6Ddp1k03iPoGBguF0n72ETLWrLpbaUQT5tCQTiftIAlSjR0KDcnbcDPjR44G0MxlqduhLKpwRZuZTOlsI2EfIo2CVY/s1600/cleaning-wiping-glue-residue-guitar-body-crack-repair-inside-chopstick-cloth-damp.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKVWwRdqe_mYXrZPsxKCMZ9xVMH8Hn6wZfcm7UvjPBulpqLQZJDd6Ddp1k03iPoGBguF0n72ETLWrLpbaUQT5tCQTiftIAlSjR0KDcnbcDPjR44G0MxlqduhLKpwRZuZTOlsI2EfIo2CVY/s320/cleaning-wiping-glue-residue-guitar-body-crack-repair-inside-chopstick-cloth-damp.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Obviously it's easy to wipe the excess glue off the outside of the guitar, but I wanted to take a shot at getting it off the inside. Not that anybody would see it.<br />
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So I wrapped my damp towel around the chopstick and reached in and wiped around the crack before the glue set.<br />
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Chopsticks...is there anything they can't do?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEituJOjnASKqaEHovE3RwJFBNWdVEVQHS8Tc7ZMye2LLxsBydguslH9Tr4mVD-CjMwQZjUzRbUXko0zN4YYVz2HYE7fHEm19OxmpcMbfZti2toMyGOxdUeh2gPf6PlkH_IcC4BrTMrqUDdI/s1600/repaired-side-crack-tacoma-koa-guitar.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEituJOjnASKqaEHovE3RwJFBNWdVEVQHS8Tc7ZMye2LLxsBydguslH9Tr4mVD-CjMwQZjUzRbUXko0zN4YYVz2HYE7fHEm19OxmpcMbfZti2toMyGOxdUeh2gPf6PlkH_IcC4BrTMrqUDdI/s320/repaired-side-crack-tacoma-koa-guitar.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the finished repair. You can see the scratch/finish chip at the top. I didn't touch that aside from polishing it.<br />
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And see the repaired crack below. It's almost invisible from a foot away - this was shot about 2 inches away. Compare this to the original picture above.<br />
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All you can see now is where the finish cracked also. The actual crack is solid and won't move at all. We may refinish those finish cracks in the future.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcCFah-_TXWcTqU_ltCHQanM0XZxKFuwbaS2qTWUqRcNljK83taiUNOdKaieL3yWNpZpAza8hb-b2w1lhFoJexfezggvTe4ihO3b7UUMXvbUkjt3eWEImiVNbGmB9Q83_X6M5F_jwf-VlE/s1600/tacoma-guitar-fret-wear-fingerboard.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcCFah-_TXWcTqU_ltCHQanM0XZxKFuwbaS2qTWUqRcNljK83taiUNOdKaieL3yWNpZpAza8hb-b2w1lhFoJexfezggvTe4ihO3b7UUMXvbUkjt3eWEImiVNbGmB9Q83_X6M5F_jwf-VlE/s320/tacoma-guitar-fret-wear-fingerboard.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Now let's clean and oil the fingerboard.<br />
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There's a small amount of fretwear on the first couple frets, but I'm not going to level the frets at this time - the wear isn't excessive yet, and polishing the frets will take some of those marks out.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrrrTSJTyGlIgRZDgOTYVthThdgqjH7O-88nL-IMydu5Z-sMdXhSWC3qOzMoW9tzar_3ga26hW2CoyfGDOHm8fXNVvfV9w7PAcyS9gX3IfDZdiRDTUB4ZguiMj7xl-dy7EbkAX3xzXQ_QO/s1600/cleaning-guitar-finger-fret-board-dunlop-rosewood-acoustic-electric.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrrrTSJTyGlIgRZDgOTYVthThdgqjH7O-88nL-IMydu5Z-sMdXhSWC3qOzMoW9tzar_3ga26hW2CoyfGDOHm8fXNVvfV9w7PAcyS9gX3IfDZdiRDTUB4ZguiMj7xl-dy7EbkAX3xzXQ_QO/s320/cleaning-guitar-finger-fret-board-dunlop-rosewood-acoustic-electric.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I cleaned the board with Dunlop fingerboard cleaner and prep. That stuff is fabulous. You can see the dirt that came off.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWJn6Il5OZBENpaWTm8QibrsSf_FwI48UwMcqeqF2eSEg5XOhG87vxlQwUMHgtSzORj28sBbWiOSWfam1JQsVf2yB_c9HN0fT5xTfuj9gWC9HulmnMZRoc0qu4Sm1-ztPx5a9sr_VRW4bO/s1600/polishing-guitar-frets-eraser-stew-mac-shiny-whoo-hoo-smooth-nice.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWJn6Il5OZBENpaWTm8QibrsSf_FwI48UwMcqeqF2eSEg5XOhG87vxlQwUMHgtSzORj28sBbWiOSWfam1JQsVf2yB_c9HN0fT5xTfuj9gWC9HulmnMZRoc0qu4Sm1-ztPx5a9sr_VRW4bO/s320/polishing-guitar-frets-eraser-stew-mac-shiny-whoo-hoo-smooth-nice.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here I am polishing the frets with my fabulous Fret Erasers. I now have grits going from 150 up to 8000 grit. They make frets look great and play very nicely.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLgaColqktndmCugWVQRI0ghGEF1ksVe1LXh5Rf6Hu0uRnCJtKVUK7y2U87RbQw6oaGZpC1dpolUbr4OAwUyw35OqMSlmbRVI0qvZmjvrrgtJ8If7JI39p6aWxnGsE8fkVFzP-uFx4q9h1/s1600/removing-cap-lid-colortone-fingerboard-oil-stuck-hard-pliers-dry-turn.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLgaColqktndmCugWVQRI0ghGEF1ksVe1LXh5Rf6Hu0uRnCJtKVUK7y2U87RbQw6oaGZpC1dpolUbr4OAwUyw35OqMSlmbRVI0qvZmjvrrgtJ8If7JI39p6aWxnGsE8fkVFzP-uFx4q9h1/s320/removing-cap-lid-colortone-fingerboard-oil-stuck-hard-pliers-dry-turn.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The final touch is to oil the board.<br />
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I have this Finishing Oil you may have seen elsewhere on the blog. I really like it, but whoo boy, the lid gets badly stuck on the bottle. I've tried wiping it clean to no avail. Every time I use it I have to open the bottle with pliers!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6QuSI38Sbdpj7ems7X6xlFo5yMz7UPIshfn0Z6LEApDIUNaQbcBVH2KWrMWvvxWU4EgugTD6kRV-_yAXmgJ3gS4g97QPZ7EGIB4QgvTvNukUjYqn7E6VPvyZwp-5jk7M5BcqT3W0cvv0H/s1600/fingerboard-finish-stew-mac-color-tone-guitar-treatment-oil-protect-preservative.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6QuSI38Sbdpj7ems7X6xlFo5yMz7UPIshfn0Z6LEApDIUNaQbcBVH2KWrMWvvxWU4EgugTD6kRV-_yAXmgJ3gS4g97QPZ7EGIB4QgvTvNukUjYqn7E6VPvyZwp-5jk7M5BcqT3W0cvv0H/s320/fingerboard-finish-stew-mac-color-tone-guitar-treatment-oil-protect-preservative.png" width="320" /></a></div>
But it's worth it. The fingerboard winds up silky smooth and has a nice satin glow.<br />
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I think that bottle is a lifetime supply - it takes just a small amount to dress the fingerboard.<br />
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Next time we'll take a look at the electronics, remove the pickguard, and do a final polish.<br />
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<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-13641467318404324172019-05-23T16:19:00.000-04:002019-05-23T16:19:16.143-04:00Simple Guitar Ceiling Hanging RackI've been on an ongoing mission to tidy up The Dungeon so I won't trip over stuff when I work down there. And since I am readying myself and the shop for some builds, tidying is a good thing.<br />
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With that in mind, I just put together a very simple ceiling rack/hanger to stash guitars and other instruments on.<br />
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Here's the backbone of the rack. I probably should have gotten some pictures of how I laid out the holes for mounting to the ceiling joists and also the guitar hanger supports, but I didn't. I believe you'll see that given how simple it is, it's pretty easy to suss out your own design and measurements.<br />
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Functionality is key in this instance, not beauty. Although, since I find myself hopelessly in love with countersinks, I did countersink all the screw holes. Only a few will even be visible. Sigh.<br />
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The main board is a 1x3 about 36 inches long. There will be 5 vertical pieces that hooks/hangers attach to. I measured some guitars and decided on about 8 1/2 inches center to center on the vertical 'posts.' You may find you can get by with a tighter spacing. Certainly if you're hanging only thin electric guitars, you won't need that much clearance.<br />
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The second set of holes are spaced to fit the distance apart my ceiling joists are. Which should be 16 inches, but my house is old so sometimes things are not <i>quite</i> that precise. I marked the board (note the pencil marks...) and used that as a reference for laying out that set of holes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvUlZfo7c1Im0nI7JtaKN8CxpIi19Vz1NRit0g-KniYV3bqpVpu4mPLhMpySprXRTI5LU5qPVBB9NlSCSMBbmrwT1Qiar4_8GJZwavYExNQdrpzzvHmz59ihXaVK8XF-9H2ZD3JlTb7CQj/s1600/guitar-ceiling-hanger-hooks-vertical-board-drilling.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvUlZfo7c1Im0nI7JtaKN8CxpIi19Vz1NRit0g-KniYV3bqpVpu4mPLhMpySprXRTI5LU5qPVBB9NlSCSMBbmrwT1Qiar4_8GJZwavYExNQdrpzzvHmz59ihXaVK8XF-9H2ZD3JlTb7CQj/s320/guitar-ceiling-hanger-hooks-vertical-board-drilling.png" width="320" /></a></div>
This is one of the vertical hanging pieces - another hunk of 1x3. About 9 inches long I believe. I measured some headstocks and figured I needed that much for clearance from the hook to the ceiling.<br />
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What I'm describing should become clearer momentarily.<br />
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The hole near the bottom is where the hooks will thread in.<br />
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Oh, look! I took a picture of the hangers I'll be using. Got these at The Despot. They have a rubberized material on them. Which is great for<br />
hanging tools on, but that type of rubber/plastic/vinyl covering is notoriously bad for fine instrument finishes. So I'm going to put some velour, from my instrument-case-lining-padding stash, on them.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgahNUNtsyTMgoenKS_OkUKjaI3aZ0pyEsO6Zea8sDteVwvvXdWaQUBrDtZgq2qbi8unE5ZlsyrmbC2wGlHBtqTAMfwxTCNWOrYP78Cvm1LyBubwJuDZssRQyAx4i0gQVTy3aYY-9FJn_E2/s1600/guitar-hanger-storage-ceiling-hook-contact-cement-spraying-applying-covering-fabric-protect.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgahNUNtsyTMgoenKS_OkUKjaI3aZ0pyEsO6Zea8sDteVwvvXdWaQUBrDtZgq2qbi8unE5ZlsyrmbC2wGlHBtqTAMfwxTCNWOrYP78Cvm1LyBubwJuDZssRQyAx4i0gQVTy3aYY-9FJn_E2/s320/guitar-hanger-storage-ceiling-hook-contact-cement-spraying-applying-covering-fabric-protect.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I used some Weldwood spray contact cement on the hooks. Works really well on fabric.<br />
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Both surfaces - the hooks and the fabric - need to be sprayed. I just did a light coat on the velour - I didn't want it to soak through and make a big mess.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiT6i4oe6rWlMATq2fnkW7S0W9P1TRn-gRjX-xOYnYviM5cH7f5HGLklqTIGCuebh9dUwT676IV7giyhJ26WEYaAO5FkeHLprBc571A2_tBQPWmajnp-rYPd-ZR1b2IQSyJynfC719gDRp/s1600/guitar-hanger-hook-wrapping-cloth-fabric-velour-protect-finish-glue-adhesive-strips.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiT6i4oe6rWlMATq2fnkW7S0W9P1TRn-gRjX-xOYnYviM5cH7f5HGLklqTIGCuebh9dUwT676IV7giyhJ26WEYaAO5FkeHLprBc571A2_tBQPWmajnp-rYPd-ZR1b2IQSyJynfC719gDRp/s320/guitar-hanger-hook-wrapping-cloth-fabric-velour-protect-finish-glue-adhesive-strips.png" width="320" /></a></div>
My apologies for the bad picture. Hard to photograph this while holding a piece of fabric with sticky adhesive on it and a camera in your other hand.<br />
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This is a strip of velour going onto a hook. I wrapped the strip around the hook like you might wrap a bandage on your arm, or a piece of bacon around a hot dog. Mmmmm bacon dog.<br />
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I needed to drill pilot holes into the ceiling joists. And look! I actually made the board square to the joists.<br />
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Back over at the bench we can assemble the vertical pieces to the backbone.<br />
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Then I put the mounting screws into the backbone so I could easily drive them into the joists without fumbling too much.<br />
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Here's how the backbone is attached to the ceiling. If you don't have exposed beams, you could use a stud finder to find the beams and then drive your screws right though your drywall (or plaster if your house is like mine) to mount the thing.<br />
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I used that masking tape so I'd be able to find my pilot holes! I always have heck of a time finding holes up there - too dark.<br />
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For what it's worth, I used #10 screws for the assembly.<br />
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Here's the whole contraption mounted on the ceiling. I told you it was simple! I don't think it could get any more basic than this.<br />
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Now we trim some of the excess velour from the hooks.<br />
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I think this is a good idea for any kind of instrument stand - most folks have some of those inexpensive floor stands and they would benefit from this treatment. Only takes a minute to do and you'll have peace of mind. I've heard bad stories about instruments whose finishes got blemished by cheap stands or hangers.<br />
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Almost there. Just thread the hooks into the stand.<br />
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Here's the finished hanger thingy.<br />
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Is it a hanger? A stand? A hook? Not sure what to call it actually.<br />
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Maybe it's a ceiling rack?<br />
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One thing I know is it ain't pretty. But it works.<br />
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And already it's filled up with guitars.<br />
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I need another one now.<br />
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Gets them up off the floor where they're relatively safe. And of course now I see them every day and am reminded of the work that needs to be done on them.<br />
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Here's another angle that shows the guitars better.<br />
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From front to back: TWO (count 'em) ca. 1910 Lyon & Healy 'Concert' size guitars - 13 inch lower bouts, about 4 inches deep. Solid spruce over birch. I believe they both are model 740s, but I'm not 100% sure yet. Both need major work - neck resets, cracks, you name it. At least one will have to be refinished, unfortunately.<br />
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Next is a 1930s May-Bell tenor guitar. Back needs to be reglued and it also needs a neck reset. It's also spruce over birch.<br />
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Near the back is a 1950s Kay jumbo - really fancy. Needs a neck set and general attention. I'll put a truss rod in the neck too.<br />
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Finally is a Guild F-50 which needs some finish touchup.<br />
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<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-9901481664045354042019-04-16T16:20:00.000-04:002019-04-18T09:09:45.454-04:00Kamaka HF-3D Ukulele: Fixing Fret End Sprout and Touching up Finish <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It's not every day that we have ukulele royalty in The Dungeon! I bow to the mighty world famous Kamaka!<br />
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This is a fabulous Kamaka HF-3D Concert belonging to a friend. It's a fairly recent one. And after winter indoors in a place other than Hawaii, it has a minor case of 'fret end sprout.'<br />
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This is not atypical for newer instruments. It has been kept humidified, but the fingerboard shrunk a bit and left some fret ends sticking out - aka sprout.<br />
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Wood is an organic material. It shrinks and it expands. That's what happens. Keeping an eye on humidity helps prevent cracks and the like, but sometimes things happen. It's wood! And of course, the frets, being nickel silver, don't shrink with the board.<br />
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And there is also some finish touch-up I need to do as well.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU5S0U8DpvaiDNv2gAkUYHjN7uxs_KTqLMfruVFxRzIHtsmic4W5GVspBQjVKe4AacT_6QsgGREWHvnpzRM4uLjoO2I9ZmbO9-p7IlSenDJvVeKZuK_q3Y2AtOJPJvWM_zRVNL34kGPvNX/s1600/kamaka-tenor-ukulele-modern-label-maker.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU5S0U8DpvaiDNv2gAkUYHjN7uxs_KTqLMfruVFxRzIHtsmic4W5GVspBQjVKe4AacT_6QsgGREWHvnpzRM4uLjoO2I9ZmbO9-p7IlSenDJvVeKZuK_q3Y2AtOJPJvWM_zRVNL34kGPvNX/s320/kamaka-tenor-ukulele-modern-label-maker.png" width="320" /></a></div>
This is the current Kamaka label. Their labels have changed a few times over the years. And for the first 83 years of the company's existence (1916 to 1999), their instruments didn't have serial numbers. The only way to approximately date them is by the label. And I am not able to find a serial number decoder online. I suspect Kamaka will provide that information if contacted.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK7h0m_gdupsnZUzASFe4YhyphenhyphenfHOuHXYXBQAV3K4pnCk5CDAhq5WM1wel2Ke-WIZyAcjclVuT5FhJA269XzwTj9KaFH1rCUQeOgZROYihhlTs8XJKWuDGNwrlSSXvOLOLT5l2vQ4JPo3RvX/s1600/kamaka-hf-3d-ukulele-front-binding-rope-art-custom-deluxe-koa-flame.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK7h0m_gdupsnZUzASFe4YhyphenhyphenfHOuHXYXBQAV3K4pnCk5CDAhq5WM1wel2Ke-WIZyAcjclVuT5FhJA269XzwTj9KaFH1rCUQeOgZROYihhlTs8XJKWuDGNwrlSSXvOLOLT5l2vQ4JPo3RvX/s320/kamaka-hf-3d-ukulele-front-binding-rope-art-custom-deluxe-koa-flame.png" width="320" /></a></div>
My friend is very lucky to know a craftsperson at Kamaka. She did the wonderful custom artwork you see on the lower bout.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBTUUr4r4HtGRMB-860vIOFxMBRQFmHoG8v5MsUW5N9uvoQw6dwWpBGX5k1_c4fOqF3s5ena3JKLONsEkrx-1UMMLkuIEszm6LLYKu9cXlzPtyWWc0VQ-Z5Kj7gUg3sF5VCAc2NZgYAI8H/s1600/custom-turtle-art-kamaka-ukulele-paint-draw-pen.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBTUUr4r4HtGRMB-860vIOFxMBRQFmHoG8v5MsUW5N9uvoQw6dwWpBGX5k1_c4fOqF3s5ena3JKLONsEkrx-1UMMLkuIEszm6LLYKu9cXlzPtyWWc0VQ-Z5Kj7gUg3sF5VCAc2NZgYAI8H/s320/custom-turtle-art-kamaka-ukulele-paint-draw-pen.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's a closeup of the very cool art. This is really a one-off piece. Very nice!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDdVgSSAGMTr5eeNZKWS1g6CjZFBLEaCBSKb3Y3q5-DKVGwEbho8mP-BJH_6de-gIQfg-48ms_HweJVSIFIi2Q1pUCr43ROMI9srRiHCBZB5OPETCdbJ-VgLC-YMKAuMti9rNyv7PR1c6F/s1600/jake-shimabukuro-signed-autograph-custom-kamaka-ukulele.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDdVgSSAGMTr5eeNZKWS1g6CjZFBLEaCBSKb3Y3q5-DKVGwEbho8mP-BJH_6de-gIQfg-48ms_HweJVSIFIi2Q1pUCr43ROMI9srRiHCBZB5OPETCdbJ-VgLC-YMKAuMti9rNyv7PR1c6F/s320/jake-shimabukuro-signed-autograph-custom-kamaka-ukulele.png" width="320" /></a></div>
And the icing on the ukulele, as it were, is Jake Shimabukuro's signature.<br />
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Jake did this at the factory! He lives on Oahu, he's a Kamaka endorser, so I suspect he is there on occasion.<br />
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Both the art and the autograph have been lacquered over as far as I can tell - they won't be rubbing off.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu4dx7KakewtEHElOzLX56F3MpjKpjnFhImNDZR_J9jUntfASgKNmDoY_eDHgJLV14M61Mx2ryckhgPHFaJrPkDFAtoksBCVj7uR8dPrFB7_4CHteq8eczGbQrtTke_janY80vWlzz3Hd7/s1600/kamaka-deluxe-headstock-koa-flame-hf-3d.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu4dx7KakewtEHElOzLX56F3MpjKpjnFhImNDZR_J9jUntfASgKNmDoY_eDHgJLV14M61Mx2ryckhgPHFaJrPkDFAtoksBCVj7uR8dPrFB7_4CHteq8eczGbQrtTke_janY80vWlzz3Hd7/s320/kamaka-deluxe-headstock-koa-flame-hf-3d.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The HF-3 model has super nice features, including rope purfing. And the "D" means "Deluxe" - super flamed koa. I love flame. Love love love it.<br />
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Check out that bookmatched headstock veneer. Mmmmm I want to eat it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvqlxV0-Sp3aDbYVA4hybLI_Cb_i7BB3Attrc9KpyXiyvvFTEM6fX7YFMSe4OhzracHIa7zKbnViACvFvi5rMFi1NT0_feZo21ES26FgAupSiYWVSwZDd0L34sN2Hl7cxjVsANarrK6ugk/s1600/kamaka-ukulele-deluxe-flame-figured-koa-back-closeup.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvqlxV0-Sp3aDbYVA4hybLI_Cb_i7BB3Attrc9KpyXiyvvFTEM6fX7YFMSe4OhzracHIa7zKbnViACvFvi5rMFi1NT0_feZo21ES26FgAupSiYWVSwZDd0L34sN2Hl7cxjVsANarrK6ugk/s320/kamaka-ukulele-deluxe-flame-figured-koa-back-closeup.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Shot of the back.<br />
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I could have stared at this for hours while it was on the bench.<br />
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Did I say I love flame?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj58z9su7EPLhYuk6g471PtlEwRbt8Mtaf8IoI43qKW4QkY4bRbOf9LThC5Cvqr5og2VX47sGmcQ6ZsA08GPj5542NooVAE-w7ASmdnSf047bKYM9OLRvToVSL_ksCbxltUUfUEB5eKqwna/s1600/rope-purfling-kamaka-deluxe-model-ukulele-koa-flame-figure.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj58z9su7EPLhYuk6g471PtlEwRbt8Mtaf8IoI43qKW4QkY4bRbOf9LThC5Cvqr5og2VX47sGmcQ6ZsA08GPj5542NooVAE-w7ASmdnSf047bKYM9OLRvToVSL_ksCbxltUUfUEB5eKqwna/s320/rope-purfling-kamaka-deluxe-model-ukulele-koa-flame-figure.png" width="320" /></a></div>
And in addition to the wonderful koa, you get this fantastic rope purfling. This style is very traditional. Just wonderful.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMoTdybp8LYZgog4nXSvcTfJqbIpXxxzNrzW6Rbm_1dM-bTwjFul99vIvf6wof46FH0sz9hYsDLFqBmE5rRRVKkga5FF71X5imt5hqsuoJlJGUiDzXJoBYuwJ2vzN367iv0G0grLrJeI4g/s1600/filing-fixing-fret-end-sprout-sharp-kamaka-ukulele-file-smooth-edge.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMoTdybp8LYZgog4nXSvcTfJqbIpXxxzNrzW6Rbm_1dM-bTwjFul99vIvf6wof46FH0sz9hYsDLFqBmE5rRRVKkga5FF71X5imt5hqsuoJlJGUiDzXJoBYuwJ2vzN367iv0G0grLrJeI4g/s320/filing-fixing-fret-end-sprout-sharp-kamaka-ukulele-file-smooth-edge.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I have work to do; can't stare at the wood any more.<br />
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The fret spout is not too bad. I use my smallest fret end file to knock it down so any sharp ends are flush with the fingerboard and the corners don't have any sharp edges.<br />
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This kind of detail makes playing a lot easier - who likes sharp fret ends? Nobody.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIIIG_QfeEilBR6puwSaHH2PmKzXRoJfyq1Rh4zZhhorzeSfB5SHj8ULzRulOqPIBbsatBPzRoKXEnc7p04jFHImT0SBAE9LT1ykmIc4oThXKdgxiSi-gRylGn19HPuJJnVoko45tNBxLc/s1600/finish-chip-blister-raised-lacquer-fingerboard-edge-kamaka-ukulele.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIIIG_QfeEilBR6puwSaHH2PmKzXRoJfyq1Rh4zZhhorzeSfB5SHj8ULzRulOqPIBbsatBPzRoKXEnc7p04jFHImT0SBAE9LT1ykmIc4oThXKdgxiSi-gRylGn19HPuJJnVoko45tNBxLc/s320/finish-chip-blister-raised-lacquer-fingerboard-edge-kamaka-ukulele.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the finish issue I mentioned.<br />
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Kamaka, unlike a lot of manufacturers, sprays clear lacquer of the edges of their fingerboards. As far as I'm aware, they've done this since at least the 1970s. It makes for a cool, glossy look.<br />
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Note the places on the edge of the fingerboard that appear to be white. What happened is as the board shrunk a bit, the frets of course did not. That's the 'sprout.' But since the fret ends were lacquered along with the fingerboard edge, the finish got pulled up around the frets, causing a 'blister' in the finish.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGs8MoWfWYfQzTXRBPFfbC9G0anRhKnw5bEJUooR72GM9x6n7kTJTE7VeRMUBTkeZRT2HyJ_35jVXwegavJ-t0RZh02jccBTdL4Bu69OI2K-I_Fi7ewTVWdEdvURtj5QPA2_LFoJVbHkg1/s1600/nitrocellulose-lacquer-black-touch-up-brush-fingerboard-edge-kamaka-ukulele-repair.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGs8MoWfWYfQzTXRBPFfbC9G0anRhKnw5bEJUooR72GM9x6n7kTJTE7VeRMUBTkeZRT2HyJ_35jVXwegavJ-t0RZh02jccBTdL4Bu69OI2K-I_Fi7ewTVWdEdvURtj5QPA2_LFoJVbHkg1/s320/nitrocellulose-lacquer-black-touch-up-brush-fingerboard-edge-kamaka-ukulele-repair.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I tried a bit of lacquer reducer directly on the spots, thinking it might soften the finish and the blisters might lay flat. That was not successful.<br />
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I mixed up some black nitrocellulose lacquer, fairly thin, and carefully brushed it over the bad spots. See the note on the jar that my lacquer is vegan, gluten free, and low calorie.<br />
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Finish repairs are always a delicate job, so I was proceeding with caution so as to not wreck the existing finish on such a fine instrument.<br />
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After I let the fresh lacquer dry for about a week, I polished it out with 400, 600, 800, and 1000 grit paper, and then 1500 up to 12000 grit Micro-mesh pads.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_2xfsN3DCf3ue3zV9Rwwh8PkTqRGsesU5x94n3xn6-r3SorgsUFd6MnoHuGIMJrSGVFfDrfUnhmNufhbgOx132hJQRV954ffWqU5w8Bv5jYCZyW3GoEG4bpjFWJT0nTbQjZ42KN_9bd_z/s1600/hand-polish-compound-nitro-lacquer-guitar-ukulele-finish-rub-gloss-repair-touch-up.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_2xfsN3DCf3ue3zV9Rwwh8PkTqRGsesU5x94n3xn6-r3SorgsUFd6MnoHuGIMJrSGVFfDrfUnhmNufhbgOx132hJQRV954ffWqU5w8Bv5jYCZyW3GoEG4bpjFWJT0nTbQjZ42KN_9bd_z/s320/hand-polish-compound-nitro-lacquer-guitar-ukulele-finish-rub-gloss-repair-touch-up.png" width="320" /></a></div>
And then did a final polish with mild compound.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Nc_ko7xP2WhLkCMbMIkXQSXzHMRDSq3KBS3wrGVb5brom6I-KBHM_O8AmLQQlp2Mu14A8p0jEZYKyjQgDjN5t_oY4E0w6rOGPGpbjJUE9KkOAhdWYWOhYMc1gCAzN5DbaQO3o_AGqHej/s1600/finish-repair-lacquer-chip-blister-raise-kamaka-ukulele-fingerboard-edge-touch-up.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Nc_ko7xP2WhLkCMbMIkXQSXzHMRDSq3KBS3wrGVb5brom6I-KBHM_O8AmLQQlp2Mu14A8p0jEZYKyjQgDjN5t_oY4E0w6rOGPGpbjJUE9KkOAhdWYWOhYMc1gCAzN5DbaQO3o_AGqHej/s320/finish-repair-lacquer-chip-blister-raise-kamaka-ukulele-fingerboard-edge-touch-up.png" width="320" /></a></div>
It was hard to photograph because the finish is so glossy and my shop lights reflect it like crazy.<br />
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I got 95% of the spots repaired. There are a couple of small areas that might have benefited from a second pass, but my friend is very happy with it as is. It looks virtually as new now.<br />
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And the frets are smooth to boot!<br />
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And with that, I bid aloha to the beautiful Kamaka, who is now off to earn tips!<br />
<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-49160951627428932992019-03-26T16:17:00.000-04:002019-03-26T16:17:38.550-04:00Veneer Edge Banding and Homebrew Varnish Finish for DIY Workbench<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzwuvtn1GMasjP5-VCAnNBYpSu1EV0hpkxsDD-YjNKasFzIZ1v2ls1852S6D8XYdbbn_Osp7J2EcGKmYYXobvRtqkEPF8hUtw49PbhhW0kpnCccHhIK25ictEtn0NfJ7oXPyP8o5vEWwUx/s1600/finish-sanding-maple-workbench-top-diy-homebrew.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzwuvtn1GMasjP5-VCAnNBYpSu1EV0hpkxsDD-YjNKasFzIZ1v2ls1852S6D8XYdbbn_Osp7J2EcGKmYYXobvRtqkEPF8hUtw49PbhhW0kpnCccHhIK25ictEtn0NfJ7oXPyP8o5vEWwUx/s320/finish-sanding-maple-workbench-top-diy-homebrew.png" width="320" /></a></div>
We have drawers and a laminated maple top, and now we need to apply a finish to the bench and put some edge banding on, then we can start using it.<br />
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I sanded the top, the cabinet and the drawer fronts with 120, 180 and then 220 grit paper.<br />
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I got this crazy idea to put some maple veneer edge banding on the top to cover up where the ply sheets and the maple top were laminated together.<br />
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The banding is a thin veneer of hardwood with a heat-sensitive adhesive on the back. You can buy it in various widths and lengths. I got a roll 3 inches wide by 25 feet long.<br />
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I'm going to try and do the whole top in one shot. So I figured I should do a test on a piece of scrap first.<br />
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If you look carefully, you'll notice the 'scrap' is actually my <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2015/12/simple-diy-router-table.html">down-and-dirty router table</a>! I had used it to make the drawer pulls, it was right at hand so I used it for my test.<br />
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You can see I cut a suitable piece of the veneer, and got my trusty Black and Decker iron heated up. I used the next-to-highest heat setting.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBxaakaSJ6HUkU801Yimd6sO4Pry81Rh3CleuQZUmpZFWM4Korv7cN1mV7lzxs8jDb4EzOGZcVogMjdEYxCesp9CswLKpb_XR9A3tdMhzsPtVtZAbawn2ICNcqL8ulk78s4YuxsV2Y_TAy/s1600/iron-heat-adhesive-edge-banding-wood-veneer-test-maple-trim.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBxaakaSJ6HUkU801Yimd6sO4Pry81Rh3CleuQZUmpZFWM4Korv7cN1mV7lzxs8jDb4EzOGZcVogMjdEYxCesp9CswLKpb_XR9A3tdMhzsPtVtZAbawn2ICNcqL8ulk78s4YuxsV2Y_TAy/s320/iron-heat-adhesive-edge-banding-wood-veneer-test-maple-trim.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Just iron over the veneer at a slow speed. The adhesive will melt and bond to the wood.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSscbFRlS3qjgQkCvdCvvBOt-IgC5Sy22AfcHcqwFNNrBCtnJ3tpSGdUfmACM0eYQvSfnG2AjsU8Q9SqftxmHKcL4Owt5cOLztYP3mhNWCi5D4cKVz3I4io5CU93T_FTZbEGSdPiX6tQ9z/s1600/trimming-installed-edge-banding-wood-heat-chisel-cut.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSscbFRlS3qjgQkCvdCvvBOt-IgC5Sy22AfcHcqwFNNrBCtnJ3tpSGdUfmACM0eYQvSfnG2AjsU8Q9SqftxmHKcL4Owt5cOLztYP3mhNWCi5D4cKVz3I4io5CU93T_FTZbEGSdPiX6tQ9z/s320/trimming-installed-edge-banding-wood-heat-chisel-cut.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I had used a razor veneer trimmer tool last time I worked with this stuff, on my <a href="https://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2010/08/veneering-our-diy-fullrange-speakers.html">DIY Fostex 126En speakers</a>. <br />
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Since I have a large amount of veneer to trim, this time I did some research and saw a mention on Lumberjocks about using a chisel. So I tried it, and it worked great. Lots of control and with a sharp chisel, the veneer cuts very easily - and straight.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQdMHZ7mDkE8u2-xso3CzslR7l1aHXk57OQP6d93DKJA3v7F_YTy4QuDc2uI6mSOZE7omzPdp-R80gqGz4saqk1GAUXpqRdX0Gz38YKzuzOM1hAxLcZA0VsR7v12nIbDUfq8HB3eYu1EGG/s1600/cut-trim-edge-banding-wood-adhesive-heat-test-chisel.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQdMHZ7mDkE8u2-xso3CzslR7l1aHXk57OQP6d93DKJA3v7F_YTy4QuDc2uI6mSOZE7omzPdp-R80gqGz4saqk1GAUXpqRdX0Gz38YKzuzOM1hAxLcZA0VsR7v12nIbDUfq8HB3eYu1EGG/s320/cut-trim-edge-banding-wood-adhesive-heat-test-chisel.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Mission accomplished, test completed. Not too bad.<br />
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Now to move on to the Real Thing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-xpMJQu3jNkKoSJTwfR6Oj1dhilFqbiZ1M_xp1KiRf75Kr5v0py6ufqWz3JJ0clQzb-qWbB2EN0NnjFPqofnIn_ScnlYhW3CgNjH57zaiXgSwtf8VijQQIthq41C66kESeIVWSMUxAykG/s1600/installing-wood-veneer-edge-banding-workbench-top-heat-adhesive-maple-align-tape-prep.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-xpMJQu3jNkKoSJTwfR6Oj1dhilFqbiZ1M_xp1KiRf75Kr5v0py6ufqWz3JJ0clQzb-qWbB2EN0NnjFPqofnIn_ScnlYhW3CgNjH57zaiXgSwtf8VijQQIthq41C66kESeIVWSMUxAykG/s320/installing-wood-veneer-edge-banding-workbench-top-heat-adhesive-maple-align-tape-prep.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Right.<br />
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This is a lot bigger than that small piece on a wood scrap.<br />
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I unrolled the veneer and taped it around the table top as you see here.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjIFi1EUH_qEVcJLSu7O2n9aArNs_KjB5QgaVTzHsSIO5fgBfIHadFL9QxElEvSHcNRCzFpa1kwP7VjpUwJbppRFb5V6Ap_ZmmN43hhgy6BX4F_TsD2SgaJ7qdEW3ZHhraqw6c7JQdVweu/s1600/heat-iron-edge-banding-wood-veneer-trim-table-top-workbench-install-apply.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjIFi1EUH_qEVcJLSu7O2n9aArNs_KjB5QgaVTzHsSIO5fgBfIHadFL9QxElEvSHcNRCzFpa1kwP7VjpUwJbppRFb5V6Ap_ZmmN43hhgy6BX4F_TsD2SgaJ7qdEW3ZHhraqw6c7JQdVweu/s320/heat-iron-edge-banding-wood-veneer-trim-table-top-workbench-install-apply.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Same process as the test. Just on a larger scale.<br />
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Move the iron along slowly to get the adhesive hot. I made two or three passes and worked on about a foot or so at a time.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzHvc0SEZXw5DrL-xVTR9Ji-dMbOXD5lwwKhLfHxrmiQnIxRB0ZwsFUXgI1Bto9B70E0bNmAq06bqiQXZ_8BzSMgvjNVeKE6fHH74isFukA2CJ96nTH0eHPKw2dLxGN-_DQQ3-2IH7oqQ1/s1600/installing-block-press-adhesive-edge-banding-table-top-workbench.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzHvc0SEZXw5DrL-xVTR9Ji-dMbOXD5lwwKhLfHxrmiQnIxRB0ZwsFUXgI1Bto9B70E0bNmAq06bqiQXZ_8BzSMgvjNVeKE6fHH74isFukA2CJ96nTH0eHPKw2dLxGN-_DQQ3-2IH7oqQ1/s320/installing-block-press-adhesive-edge-banding-table-top-workbench.png" width="320" /></a></div>
And then immediately went over each section with a wood block to ensure it was flat.<br />
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I made a seam at the finish end. Didn't get a picture, but it's just a butt joint. Came out fine.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2qWDVykhhO2NXH8be9wDBYV8qekNU3ya0GqcHkFfO1wi_rF1d3bWoi_TbR818WaLinIhXylYK5MgF1raT0p9BCTucgS93MmaiYf2sD3Btoh4Lt_3bs1A_FtjVXPbN5vhitGreuqSCllfi/s1600/trimming-edge-banding-wood-veneer-chisel-table-top-workbench.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2qWDVykhhO2NXH8be9wDBYV8qekNU3ya0GqcHkFfO1wi_rF1d3bWoi_TbR818WaLinIhXylYK5MgF1raT0p9BCTucgS93MmaiYf2sD3Btoh4Lt_3bs1A_FtjVXPbN5vhitGreuqSCllfi/s320/trimming-edge-banding-wood-veneer-chisel-table-top-workbench.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Then I turned the table top on its side on the floor to trim the edges with the chisel. As I finished each side, I turned the top to get access to each side.<br />
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It's HEAVY, so this took some doing.<br />
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Using a chisel worked out perfectly. I found that once I made a cut, I was able to trim away a couple of feet in one shot. I had been concerned about controlling a razor blade trimmer; this was much better.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWWywSXRX-otX1qwTZxKeoy7wOoyVPCsstoAlgN_YNYzXxcEc7ghT9lHjELTiWmkrMOOfpp-ZGTjifgDNKw9eXvet3sQndueNyRdho9YSXbp5GXRiwAEeGYquVpOX9iajR5Mpbvp7X8qDV/s1600/sanding-edge-banding-veneer-table-top-trim-flush.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWWywSXRX-otX1qwTZxKeoy7wOoyVPCsstoAlgN_YNYzXxcEc7ghT9lHjELTiWmkrMOOfpp-ZGTjifgDNKw9eXvet3sQndueNyRdho9YSXbp5GXRiwAEeGYquVpOX9iajR5Mpbvp7X8qDV/s320/sanding-edge-banding-veneer-table-top-trim-flush.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Then I used 220 grit paper to knock down and places where the banding sat a bit proud of the surface.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT3FGBeEYmHyn2ULCo1WuaSoqFJsHoUO137n6t5ApOOFYIvC2IG9Q1Uu2mqIC5OlMcq3hyphenhyphenTRuDYSAjW2jRS3Wd5fi6w8Qg0j8eDT5ijqzRG_CnMozYo-SRbXZoIDnYVtcbB2xOdLks60dW/s1600/diy-homebrew-wiping-varnish-blo-linseed-oil-naptha-spar-mix.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT3FGBeEYmHyn2ULCo1WuaSoqFJsHoUO137n6t5ApOOFYIvC2IG9Q1Uu2mqIC5OlMcq3hyphenhyphenTRuDYSAjW2jRS3Wd5fi6w8Qg0j8eDT5ijqzRG_CnMozYo-SRbXZoIDnYVtcbB2xOdLks60dW/s320/diy-homebrew-wiping-varnish-blo-linseed-oil-naptha-spar-mix.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Now to apply a finish.<br />
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I wanted something sort of natural that would go into the wood and show the grain. You may recall I picked boards that had some nice flame, so I wanted to highlight it.<br />
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Did a lot of reading online and decided on a homebrew wiping varnish consisting of 1/3 naptha, 1/3 boiled linseed oil, and 1/3 spar varnish.<br />
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I discovered that the "varnish" you get in your local paint store is poly. I have an aversion to poly, so I ordered some real spar varnish online.<br />
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Also found out about boiled linseed oil (aka BLO). Seems the stuff you can get in the Despot (of which I have a can in The Dungeon) has all sorts of chemicals to aid in its drying. More chemicals, in fact, than actual BLO. So I also procured some of the real thing.<br />
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Part of the reason for finishing the top was not just to protect the wood, but to experiment a bit with varnish as a wood finish. With a eye toward potentially using it on an instrument.<br />
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I needed to apply the finish in a ventilated area, so I lugged the table top up to <a href="https://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2010/02/finally-finito.html?m=0">the sunroom</a>, where I could open the windows. No way could I do this in The Dungeon.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjumvRky4TKzI0hoqsT_lBTgTGY9pDibIaXM4fTA1oJop6_PiTo-jSk0ziMgjoCPt3c85yx8HYHO2BFq_Al5cPZ90SSe_GIos4zCeTlqAdL45MRoeaXe6eXV7kAEe7SsG3w_xCHIiBp7M42/s1600/homebrew-diy-mix-wood-varnish-linseed-oil-naptha-jar-wiping.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjumvRky4TKzI0hoqsT_lBTgTGY9pDibIaXM4fTA1oJop6_PiTo-jSk0ziMgjoCPt3c85yx8HYHO2BFq_Al5cPZ90SSe_GIos4zCeTlqAdL45MRoeaXe6eXV7kAEe7SsG3w_xCHIiBp7M42/s320/homebrew-diy-mix-wood-varnish-linseed-oil-naptha-jar-wiping.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the wiping varnish mix. I wanted an amber-y finish. In the jar it looks good, but it wasn't quite what I was after, so I put a few drops of <a href="https://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Finishing_Supplies/Colors_and_Tints_and_Stains/ColorTone_Liquid_Stains.html">ColorTone stain</a> into the mix. I used vintage amber and medium brown.<br />
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(In looking at the stains, it seems Stew-Mac has expanded its color selection to include Nazareth brown and Kalamazoo brown...like Martin and Gibson vintage colors. Interesting!)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ6LJ5LPVvfAZ85zRc-zoGjFM4MBPqexjTyXxtICbfA8JKsCdtCN0-WP3iiLmUbRiOwgBVynv6_4aCgX-mvntAJjZtnWXr-a8Ssci9hBOqbrgsxH0CeneboI1ACcWBqjrLQIbK-KeZ7Mmg/s1600/applying-homebrew-wiping-varnish-table-top-maple-hardwood-workbench.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ6LJ5LPVvfAZ85zRc-zoGjFM4MBPqexjTyXxtICbfA8JKsCdtCN0-WP3iiLmUbRiOwgBVynv6_4aCgX-mvntAJjZtnWXr-a8Ssci9hBOqbrgsxH0CeneboI1ACcWBqjrLQIbK-KeZ7Mmg/s320/applying-homebrew-wiping-varnish-table-top-maple-hardwood-workbench.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The varnish went on easily with a clean cloth rag. I changed the rag frequently.<br />
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My finishing schedule was 2 to 3 light coats a day. I wound up with 12 coats on the top. I could have done a few more, but I figured the top is going to get scratched up, so I wasn't going for a super perfect finish.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6M54Jzv-nAPYemCDQN7qQZ7q25FxP7ttWy9I27yQd4lkW32XCY1uMoT49TA64uAMn6oW-_KwoZtTIGNaz7fW9Y7xMctWBTqb15AKCFzVqd7yHWk52kIOOSJdiRIl39xer9pn0myWzhISZ/s1600/storage-shelves-diy-workbench-ecos-varnish-finish-tinted.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6M54Jzv-nAPYemCDQN7qQZ7q25FxP7ttWy9I27yQd4lkW32XCY1uMoT49TA64uAMn6oW-_KwoZtTIGNaz7fW9Y7xMctWBTqb15AKCFzVqd7yHWk52kIOOSJdiRIl39xer9pn0myWzhISZ/s320/storage-shelves-diy-workbench-ecos-varnish-finish-tinted.png" width="320" /></a></div>
While the varnish on the top was in process, I also used a different type of varnish on the cabinet.<br />
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While searching for the spar varnish online, I discovered Ecos finishes. These are paints and varnishes that have low VOC (volatile organic compounds). I procured some of their varnish and put that on the cabinet, tinted with ColorTone also.<br />
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I also built in some shelves on both ends and the side of the bench opposite to the drawers. I put some cork on the shelves as an anti-slip covering. They're also angled backward about 1 degree or so to help prevent things from falling off!<br />
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In the shot above, you can see one end, with shelves finished (note the can of Ecos on the second shelf). The Ecos is very easy to work with, goes on easily and does not smell at all!<br />
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Note also that I decided to put a power strip on the bench - this is a convenient spot.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhump5qmY7qqyKko8C6TXmGKkmXBFdQPZpAFkCS6rt9usVzDIoROgvlwubzu610NJ9glgzFhEZ9NNCnIflSnQLpg7gIIShB-2lcAQv3FqbJQIP8IZLcWoZxH8uqPZ01-keeGzv6lU3hPj0B/s1600/machine-polish-varnish-finish-homebrew-mix-orbital-random-table-workbench-furniture.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhump5qmY7qqyKko8C6TXmGKkmXBFdQPZpAFkCS6rt9usVzDIoROgvlwubzu610NJ9glgzFhEZ9NNCnIflSnQLpg7gIIShB-2lcAQv3FqbJQIP8IZLcWoZxH8uqPZ01-keeGzv6lU3hPj0B/s320/machine-polish-varnish-finish-homebrew-mix-orbital-random-table-workbench-furniture.png" width="320" /></a></div>
After the varnish on the top was applied, I let it dry in the sunroom for a couple weeks. (Gave me plenty of time for those shelves and finishing the cabinet).<br />
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Then I brought the top down to The Dungeon, put it back on the table, and let it dry about another week - until I couldn't smell any varnish smell.<br />
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Then I wet sanded it with 400, 600, 800 and 1200 grit paper and then machine polished it with fine compound. Then I waxed it with bowling alley wax.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM4GqP_5Eyyi3HAlqutvTifH0W9DJcg0bg_K4oSmOUKsDBTunAjyPUlLTbS3Gz34pTyucta6ovbdUIf2aasRSQ-7g1YYWuGlYj6Lj2MAsu6EEeAZK8LoDmIUmYtrpjzkt3WZqXEQlJfE1z/s1600/diy-workbench-top-maple-hardwood-varnish-laminate-polish-figure-flame.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM4GqP_5Eyyi3HAlqutvTifH0W9DJcg0bg_K4oSmOUKsDBTunAjyPUlLTbS3Gz34pTyucta6ovbdUIf2aasRSQ-7g1YYWuGlYj6Lj2MAsu6EEeAZK8LoDmIUmYtrpjzkt3WZqXEQlJfE1z/s320/diy-workbench-top-maple-hardwood-varnish-laminate-polish-figure-flame.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the finished top.<br />
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I'm pretty happy with it. It doesn't have a super high gloss, but as I said earlier, it's going to get scuffed up anyway, and I didn't want it to be so slick that workpieces or tools would just slide around.<br />
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And now I have some experience with varnish. It's a thin finish, and I want to try it on a guitar or ukulele at some point.<br />
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The shelves on the far side opposite the drawers. Already getting filled up.<br />
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This is the only good place I found for my early 1920s Stanley No. 7 plane - that thing is long!<br />
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The Ecos finish on the frame looks good I think. Better than the bare pine in any event.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmIopKs6t_YHC3h4afqbRumo3D87-3lcuI6y3k2_Z9DQsG0CPnQNTJ3pROV7xtGSqFIT2FeBkQZtu4sMXqNeLXr4Y8qCUiMj0e1qYlYSTwq6s-RrqeFHSn9RrSbjNlgWdP9Z_iOEsFMX6P/s1600/ecos-varnish-low-voc-finish-workbench-tinted-amber-pine-diy-homebrew-drawers.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmIopKs6t_YHC3h4afqbRumo3D87-3lcuI6y3k2_Z9DQsG0CPnQNTJ3pROV7xtGSqFIT2FeBkQZtu4sMXqNeLXr4Y8qCUiMj0e1qYlYSTwq6s-RrqeFHSn9RrSbjNlgWdP9Z_iOEsFMX6P/s320/ecos-varnish-low-voc-finish-workbench-tinted-amber-pine-diy-homebrew-drawers.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the drawer side of the bench.<br />
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One thing I learned about the banding: it will follow the surface very closely. Which means, if your underlying surface is lumpy, you will have lumps in the veneer. There are places where my veneer is not smooth, because it went over plywood. Oh well, live and learn. As I once heard Billy Bragg say "You gotta take the lumpy with the smooth."<br />
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If I get <i>really</i> tired of looking at it, I might put some <a href="https://www.t-molding.com/" target="_blank">PVC T-molding</a> on. Maybe. (Keep telling myself: "self, it's just a workbench").<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkTqxop4Dp3ugXokUfwaXkrcHJbw-1QhN0S2o6ofWoPNfsoFmYT3huk7ZcxP7yxB3g17r_UWS1LTUH2UoxD0ZSBd8Ed17vTJNcqkf6VFczJ-CjGI5LDom2OCYk6YYNwEgjwzf-8ncMAih7/s1600/diy-workbench-top-maple-laminate-joinery-flame-figure-varnish-finish-hardwood.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkTqxop4Dp3ugXokUfwaXkrcHJbw-1QhN0S2o6ofWoPNfsoFmYT3huk7ZcxP7yxB3g17r_UWS1LTUH2UoxD0ZSBd8Ed17vTJNcqkf6VFczJ-CjGI5LDom2OCYk6YYNwEgjwzf-8ncMAih7/s320/diy-workbench-top-maple-laminate-joinery-flame-figure-varnish-finish-hardwood.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Close up of the maple grain on the top.<br />
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Came out pretty good for Despot wood, huh? And the joints are not bad for a total rookie.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfiBautujxu9N6jcnKItprMGF6fuAJxsb-xxxTUlX99on_Sq_vtFtcDlvBo4MgHynyDpH2iJWk44lUixJ6UDXlSQ8JBNI7eJkR3lHcQLZSohyphenhyphen0HdaY1jcLpzpQ6ARn-EqRWl8cMfo98bCm/s1600/homebrew-workbench-hardwood-top-maple-drawers-shelves-varnish-finish.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfiBautujxu9N6jcnKItprMGF6fuAJxsb-xxxTUlX99on_Sq_vtFtcDlvBo4MgHynyDpH2iJWk44lUixJ6UDXlSQ8JBNI7eJkR3lHcQLZSohyphenhyphen0HdaY1jcLpzpQ6ARn-EqRWl8cMfo98bCm/s320/homebrew-workbench-hardwood-top-maple-drawers-shelves-varnish-finish.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Now to do some work.<br />
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I sprung for a new <a href="https://www.nationalpublicseating.com//products/product-category/single/index.php?id=6418&cat=Stools&subcat=Science+Stools" target="_blank">National Public Seating stool</a> too. I had a lot of fun looking at their web site.<br />
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When you're in school, you don't think "where do they get this furniture?" Now I know!<br />
<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-33514242159873727672019-03-07T17:05:00.001-05:002019-03-07T17:05:29.428-05:00P'Mico 'Collegiate' Soprano Ukulele Neck Repair<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4Y-WW8ygt061YDcxHjzhTOwByuYUdq6iJ7OTO-XR8T4IFWwrFhl2rvO3WhxfxzKjkcFAwGHaMvhMGvU2ocdJSJpk8fDChmxUVSxMq1utdZDPclM4E0iG_unEbH-K-QPgSznFG3xTfJHHQ/s1600/pmico-ukulele-collegiate-soprano-repair-neck-joint.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4Y-WW8ygt061YDcxHjzhTOwByuYUdq6iJ7OTO-XR8T4IFWwrFhl2rvO3WhxfxzKjkcFAwGHaMvhMGvU2ocdJSJpk8fDChmxUVSxMq1utdZDPclM4E0iG_unEbH-K-QPgSznFG3xTfJHHQ/s320/pmico-ukulele-collegiate-soprano-repair-neck-joint.png" width="320" /></a></div>
A couple weeks ago a friend mentioned he had just procured a P'Mico "Collegiate" soprano ukulele. The neck was pulling away from the body, and it also had a serious case of fret sprout.<br />
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So I set about to do those repairs on it, squeezing it in around the new workbench project. Instrument work always comes first!<br />
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Here it is on the bench...the old bench, which I suppose now needs a name.<br />
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P'Mico stands for "Progressive Musical Instrument Company." They were a 'jobber' - that is, a distributor of instruments and accessories from the 1920s through 1940s I believe.<br />
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P'Mico was in New York City. They didn't make instruments; they put their name on instruments made by other companies. I suspect these were made by the one or more of the big Chicago firms - namely Regal or Kay. I don't know if anyone has any definitive answers on that score.<br />
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You may recall the 'Nobilty' P'Mico <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2014/01/nobility-archtop-tenor-guitar.html">tenor guitar</a> that crossed my bench a while back.<br />
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This little uku is cute. As with the tenor guitar, there are some interesting features. The body appears to be shaded mahogany, but...well, we'll see more in a minute.<br />
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Here's the back. You can see a crack on the top bout area. It was previously repaired, as were a few other cracks I discovered. Which tells me that someone did use it, a good thing I think.<br />
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The label and the rosette. The rosette is a decal.<br />
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The 'Collegiate' name on the headstock. Rah rah! Go ukulele, go!<br />
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More previous repair work.<br />
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The repairs are solid, but I wish I could have had a crack (ha ha) at them. I think I could have made them a bit less obvious.<br />
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Anyway, this is the main repair I'm undertaking<br />
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There's separation at the bottom of the neck joint under string pull. I'll remove the neck and reglue it.<br />
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When you have this kind of issue (gap at the bottom), it <i>generally</i> is a hint that the neck is attached with a dowel, instead of having a dovetail. So I'm assuming that's the case and will proceed accordingly. (Sheesh, that sounds like it's rocket surgery).<br />
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There isn't any fretboard extension - the neck meets right at the body and the topmost fret is right there on the joint.<br />
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Heated up the fret as usual with a soldering iron.<br />
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And pulled it out with fret pullers. <br />
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And also marked the 'treble' side with a felt marker so as to put it back in exactly the same way.<br />
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You can see the neck joint some here. There is actually a little chamfer on the fingerboard - the chamfer along with the body's edge comprise the fret 'slot.'<br />
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Now I pondered how best to approach getting the neck off. I figured that injecting steam as you would on a dovetail would be hard to control. I envisioned steam going everywhere and wrecking the finish.<br />
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Then it hit me: hot knife.<br />
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I heated up one of my disassembly/removal spatulas in my trusty Sunbeam hot pot and went at it.<br />
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Here we have the heated spatula going into the joint. Oh yes.<br />
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It took five or six patient cycles of heat, press into joint, heat, etc., to get it opened up.<br />
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Note I have tape over the neck and body to protect it.<br />
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Soon enough I was able to gently slide the neck away from the body by pulling a twisting it.<br />
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And now we can see the dowel that holds it together.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsADbJcpSIx-ebEQDLHt6vtjV_KY4rUWRIugssyfhfg7wCDjQWEvhHndFYir7OeALkzjL6rtkkz7i3LAW_Rm2Jbdorlv9aXFiwxdNSi43KyoKRWfMJ3jFDZ54D77r-WYhSfyPuWF29U2Ob/s1600/neck-body-joint-pmico-ukulele-guitar-dowel-separated-stain-glue.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsADbJcpSIx-ebEQDLHt6vtjV_KY4rUWRIugssyfhfg7wCDjQWEvhHndFYir7OeALkzjL6rtkkz7i3LAW_Rm2Jbdorlv9aXFiwxdNSi43KyoKRWfMJ3jFDZ54D77r-WYhSfyPuWF29U2Ob/s320/neck-body-joint-pmico-ukulele-guitar-dowel-separated-stain-glue.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Voila! The neck is separated from the body.<br />
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And, we see that the neck and body woods are what appears to be birch stained to look like mahogany.<br />
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This is pretty typical for this time period on inexpensive instruments. A good way to use a decent wood but make it appear to be made of something a bit more expensive.<br />
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I have a May-Bell tenor guitar made of birch as well waiting in my queue. Stained in a similar way.<br />
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Unfortunately, the stained finish means that even looking at it wrong will make it chip or scrape, especially after 80 years!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO3foS0zMTsAa7Am1wpl1DKuuIB_GNxp522HaxJU_dlYJwn51wnsFlZTD-gFdYl3xJKQ4tiKSP6-nfq9R2mDHKehGg8MvNSdwkzGeZ_ex5XR5N54vxo0euyjsVgqzapuF4C10l2ljuPzje/s1600/opening-broken-split-back-brace-repair-guitar-ukulele.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO3foS0zMTsAa7Am1wpl1DKuuIB_GNxp522HaxJU_dlYJwn51wnsFlZTD-gFdYl3xJKQ4tiKSP6-nfq9R2mDHKehGg8MvNSdwkzGeZ_ex5XR5N54vxo0euyjsVgqzapuF4C10l2ljuPzje/s320/opening-broken-split-back-brace-repair-guitar-ukulele.png" width="320" /></a></div>
When I was first examining the uku, I discovered this split in one of the back braces that needs to be repaired.<br />
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I'm holding it open here with a small screwdriver to get glue in there - it goes about halfway through the brace horizontally.<br />
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I already have a piece of waxed paper over the label to protect it from drops of glue.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5FpmGaaNg0qrVHM6OvY65uIS9lAtFZDFqElWidjZtNOgVjWCrseFyz3nlh5UdTf6xvkA0eoOrYxUr6GQK_GlyvlIN6G0sbzwcGAImwtCWxL6jMPNHYMqOrd8F1PRY6NkHLE1azwkVMDgu/s1600/glue-pipette-back-brace-repair-ukuele-guitar-vintage-inject.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5FpmGaaNg0qrVHM6OvY65uIS9lAtFZDFqElWidjZtNOgVjWCrseFyz3nlh5UdTf6xvkA0eoOrYxUr6GQK_GlyvlIN6G0sbzwcGAImwtCWxL6jMPNHYMqOrd8F1PRY6NkHLE1azwkVMDgu/s320/glue-pipette-back-brace-repair-ukuele-guitar-vintage-inject.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Do a dry run, then get some Titebond in a Stew-Mac pipette (those things are gold). Note I cut the tip off to get a bigger opening.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiACguI4tuIwM39lnFqvmPGJu1BHOgZrdh4HSWeJ-2KRpbDNlsbinQUEMTo-jmF3SYGGKL-qlADE7MyjP-vQ2vsoaVFUwOnFP6Dx-ZLqCl4L3up3Ij5bTMAwdIqOE0piq5UsF0imFtlzWCD/s1600/caul-press-repair-back-brace-ukuele-guitar-clamp-glue-broken-split.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiACguI4tuIwM39lnFqvmPGJu1BHOgZrdh4HSWeJ-2KRpbDNlsbinQUEMTo-jmF3SYGGKL-qlADE7MyjP-vQ2vsoaVFUwOnFP6Dx-ZLqCl4L3up3Ij5bTMAwdIqOE0piq5UsF0imFtlzWCD/s320/caul-press-repair-back-brace-ukuele-guitar-clamp-glue-broken-split.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I had a couple of cauls ready to hold the brace down after gluing. Really hard to get those things inside a small instrument!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKVeR2JloD-uTDyN51owms8xLLh2Hfafau_eq8eCs-cR4Rf_Dnhl5PZp3G0hW2MoSOTJxQuVHHVA1qcUf8E1j3Dg3Tdp8zk4Ynh9UUJT9qNxoM8s9Rwm2u50URBUohAVuGRtbc4j5P1_eD/s1600/gluing-repair-clamp-caul-back-brace-guitar-ukulele-fix-broken-split.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKVeR2JloD-uTDyN51owms8xLLh2Hfafau_eq8eCs-cR4Rf_Dnhl5PZp3G0hW2MoSOTJxQuVHHVA1qcUf8E1j3Dg3Tdp8zk4Ynh9UUJT9qNxoM8s9Rwm2u50URBUohAVuGRtbc4j5P1_eD/s320/gluing-repair-clamp-caul-back-brace-guitar-ukulele-fix-broken-split.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here they are in place, wedged between the top and the brace. I always wonder how long these things have been this way...decades?<br />
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Most of the squeeze-out is gone in this shot, but you see couple of spots remaining here. I used a small screwdriver to get at them.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOd_45IZWiIbghaGaVZGcvAe4oD6QZkdhYfw3si4W2K3L33k4U6wMm3sA9s4FV7-YTJRBjiqt2RGQLkMVQNkx-7UwDOXL1_WlGCOu-FJrHPC_u_bNwgPIbvZxrsxwR4DRWCdcaxJ5IpTNz/s1600/guitar-ukulele-repair-cauls-gluing-blocks-cork-wood-custom-shaped.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOd_45IZWiIbghaGaVZGcvAe4oD6QZkdhYfw3si4W2K3L33k4U6wMm3sA9s4FV7-YTJRBjiqt2RGQLkMVQNkx-7UwDOXL1_WlGCOu-FJrHPC_u_bNwgPIbvZxrsxwR4DRWCdcaxJ5IpTNz/s320/guitar-ukulele-repair-cauls-gluing-blocks-cork-wood-custom-shaped.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Now to glue the neck back on.<br />
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Surely I have a caul in my Box O' Homebrew Cauls I can use on the heel when I clamp it back together?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGh8rjJQrsdX8-rqCXkvYzwuVdBSfVaftKM8eVKHoU19aMbjo4edVs28gwvBdQgNDSfwJBa9cRmRT7Oh6opRw2SgBuiYJaIfhBtfXQoP6606Du_yl-li_F_rUrIJ20riN4GPAw9lfNVDAH/s1600/neck-joint-caul-guitar-ukulele-custom-clamp-glue.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGh8rjJQrsdX8-rqCXkvYzwuVdBSfVaftKM8eVKHoU19aMbjo4edVs28gwvBdQgNDSfwJBa9cRmRT7Oh6opRw2SgBuiYJaIfhBtfXQoP6606Du_yl-li_F_rUrIJ20riN4GPAw9lfNVDAH/s320/neck-joint-caul-guitar-ukulele-custom-clamp-glue.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I found nothing, so I cooked up a quick caul with a 'V' cutout and lined with cork.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgopaVTReYEmLcFld6aE3sLiP2QziEGWyGI3zjqEI5vqQK0nBiiiJHvkQdJfhb3fyBse379caEKQGcbEeiAMswVNDx9ENRkvHoltynAL0hwhGEFDdQuFSW7YvQvTbzRdJdEad2CTFS42SW-/s1600/clamping-caul-neck-guitar-ukulele-glue-vise-repair-dowel-joint-body.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgopaVTReYEmLcFld6aE3sLiP2QziEGWyGI3zjqEI5vqQK0nBiiiJHvkQdJfhb3fyBse379caEKQGcbEeiAMswVNDx9ENRkvHoltynAL0hwhGEFDdQuFSW7YvQvTbzRdJdEad2CTFS42SW-/s320/clamping-caul-neck-guitar-ukulele-glue-vise-repair-dowel-joint-body.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's a test run using the new caul. The uku is held in my fabulous guitar repair vise. I have a long clamp holding the neck in place.<br />
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The new caul doesn't put enough pressure on the <i>top</i> of the joint at the body- there is a small gap there. Maybe just 1/64th of an inch, but I can flex it closed, so I'm not happy with this arrangement. I want the joint to be tight.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtTuiGsLvN_yu7mTFkAraKi1Dl58yjgnphvILxTPmJbHSOfdB6ixZjUSAPKdro6bpJvx-zxEW4QG8nSgTA6WSWLNU5jhyphenhyphenn6uaAokuqWEMrZFyA2H50d12AZ3iG3D0LeUEp12Dgjnbn9h_b/s1600/making-custom-neck-heel-caul-gluing-guitar-ukulele-body.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtTuiGsLvN_yu7mTFkAraKi1Dl58yjgnphvILxTPmJbHSOfdB6ixZjUSAPKdro6bpJvx-zxEW4QG8nSgTA6WSWLNU5jhyphenhyphenn6uaAokuqWEMrZFyA2H50d12AZ3iG3D0LeUEp12Dgjnbn9h_b/s320/making-custom-neck-heel-caul-gluing-guitar-ukulele-body.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Clearly I need a deeper caul. I roughly sketch the heel shape on a pine block, then hop over to the bandsaw (ok, I actually walked...) and cut out a deep V.<br />
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Then I glued a back piece onto the block.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5YgqrO-TkNhwIpYcmVks5HpGjsZ-1EadcrNsFCx_4ouqQ8PHqxgv_RMn-Ktp0SQdeKmkCf200dBPBtELCfJBA9b1-TXj1sNeJRVLKhQ9O9lY7jePqsvZJ-WtrmbkrGnKQyM8GmWsyZdnc/s1600/carving-shaping-chisel-custom-neck-caul-guitar-joint-body-ukulele-heel.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5YgqrO-TkNhwIpYcmVks5HpGjsZ-1EadcrNsFCx_4ouqQ8PHqxgv_RMn-Ktp0SQdeKmkCf200dBPBtELCfJBA9b1-TXj1sNeJRVLKhQ9O9lY7jePqsvZJ-WtrmbkrGnKQyM8GmWsyZdnc/s320/carving-shaping-chisel-custom-neck-caul-guitar-joint-body-ukulele-heel.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Chiseled the V to better follow the shape of the neck heel.<br />
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Fine woodworking this is not.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCtNYmKmSNEWdapdcchBCFVg6WfMRLGQtnFQaT4y-AQpkRJpRtWY7IPym2b2uerMfjhzyulfkvFOjFkzuKf1OoylcI0cyrchbWoXdQkgAOSyZB3FaywL4r0So2I_SHRbfEnk0arAf5y3mY/s1600/custom-wood-neck-gluing-caul-guitar-ukulele-heel-clamp-cork-lining.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCtNYmKmSNEWdapdcchBCFVg6WfMRLGQtnFQaT4y-AQpkRJpRtWY7IPym2b2uerMfjhzyulfkvFOjFkzuKf1OoylcI0cyrchbWoXdQkgAOSyZB3FaywL4r0So2I_SHRbfEnk0arAf5y3mY/s320/custom-wood-neck-gluing-caul-guitar-ukulele-heel-clamp-cork-lining.png" width="320" /></a></div>
And finally line the new custom caul with cork.<br />
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Looks like a little recliner for the heel!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-HhsxmF4Ypdz77JPr1etYw0Gf5_T8dR-oMIm4Ukp6dC0XDeKMmkR9MxqG-mDdIv8Jbk5qXnFuOjPaPDXq37lJxDQG-q_k132rICV9zJE_lYZg1zdK3J0VozqfZnmil4lh_fioRIbIud8e/s1600/clamping-caul-guitar-heel-ukulele-reset-attach-glue-dowel-joint.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-HhsxmF4Ypdz77JPr1etYw0Gf5_T8dR-oMIm4Ukp6dC0XDeKMmkR9MxqG-mDdIv8Jbk5qXnFuOjPaPDXq37lJxDQG-q_k132rICV9zJE_lYZg1zdK3J0VozqfZnmil4lh_fioRIbIud8e/s320/clamping-caul-guitar-heel-ukulele-reset-attach-glue-dowel-joint.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I wound up clamping the caul to the heel so it would stay in place and provide enough leverage under clamping pressure to draw the heel snug to the body.<br />
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Put some Titebond on the face of the neck joint and the dowel.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvwtM1n7FCb65LlZWxg_kbmKqTgL8ZKte8OvKuXFEFcO-eVl8V6QsXMsduX5ckP-sdz_G3TCFnW98zcl4CE4iQ3CLHxTUTwxYp4KoxGecHjDmxLT7GoTYXxb5xLpzVccSi8OBiq1g9vMzT/s1600/attaching-gluing-jig-neck-ukulele-guitar-clamp-caul-reset.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvwtM1n7FCb65LlZWxg_kbmKqTgL8ZKte8OvKuXFEFcO-eVl8V6QsXMsduX5ckP-sdz_G3TCFnW98zcl4CE4iQ3CLHxTUTwxYp4KoxGecHjDmxLT7GoTYXxb5xLpzVccSi8OBiq1g9vMzT/s320/attaching-gluing-jig-neck-ukulele-guitar-clamp-caul-reset.png" width="320" /></a></div>
And clamp it all up.<br />
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Note the second rectangular caul on the bottom. Don't clamp pieces together without cauls - and use some sort of pad on the cauls to protect the instrument. You see that I like cork - it soft, won't scratch, and has some 'give' to it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-9_xsiymgbhD1c0m3S8CHd8ih2jjZ9xIp3bWBINQDsLjZ9WU6bsJBgev58RiQf7DYr75f7s5Nm0MSIQ-iXcPu7NBVE9e1cZ2-05U4us6X9ZR6SoW2bZz2RqBzQLknMduUof7_DwnvPV_c/s1600/glue-squeeze-out-neck-joint-attach-guitar-ukulele-reset-repair-pmico.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-9_xsiymgbhD1c0m3S8CHd8ih2jjZ9xIp3bWBINQDsLjZ9WU6bsJBgev58RiQf7DYr75f7s5Nm0MSIQ-iXcPu7NBVE9e1cZ2-05U4us6X9ZR6SoW2bZz2RqBzQLknMduUof7_DwnvPV_c/s320/glue-squeeze-out-neck-joint-attach-guitar-ukulele-reset-repair-pmico.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the neck joint under clamping pressure. Glue squeeze-out is our friend, but we do need to clean it up right away.<br />
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That heel caul looks huge in the picture! Note the joint there - where the two pieces were glued together.<br />
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It sits a lot higher on the heel than the first attempt, which lets me get the neck right up against the body.<br />
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After the neck repair dries, I need to touch up the light colored wood at the neck/body joint. It was visible before, but now it's really obvious. There are also some finish chips as well - I'm not sure if I did them or they were already there. Probably a little of each.<br />
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I used Minwax 'Red Mahogany' stain to touch everything up. The hardest thing to do on this kind of touchup work is matching the finish. I don't let it drive me nuts like it used to - I get as close as possible and live with it.<br />
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The only way you'll get it perfect is to refinish the whole thing.<br />
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This is pretty good I think. We want to make the work less obvious and I think this does it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5JKuXVvbUiDxg_pijWfSh_UBrezXu1p8gsgYSaBMpVvAd9QG0hUaGoU9JaSCJrWXWXVgu5j5oDZgKUtzGo201go8ZtZfMcSPe38REWzQnGXrzqzYK4CibvHiTUDmOI67GBvTPAifC4ugV/s1600/pmico-collegiate-ukulele-fret-sprout-protrude-fingerboard-edge-sharp.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5JKuXVvbUiDxg_pijWfSh_UBrezXu1p8gsgYSaBMpVvAd9QG0hUaGoU9JaSCJrWXWXVgu5j5oDZgKUtzGo201go8ZtZfMcSPe38REWzQnGXrzqzYK4CibvHiTUDmOI67GBvTPAifC4ugV/s320/pmico-collegiate-ukulele-fret-sprout-protrude-fingerboard-edge-sharp.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Now on to the fret sprout.<br />
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I tried to get the best shot I could of the fret ends. This is beyond sprout - it's <i>protrusion</i>! I'd guess some of the ends are about 1/32 of an inch past the end of the fingerboard. Hopefully you can see they really stick out.<br />
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Ouch! Like playing with barbed wire on there.<br />
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Note the finish on the frets - either the fingerboard was refinished at some point or that's the way it was originally. I vote for the latter.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjukmGJMFjYFmir6jOmggrWve0t_F5Yp3t9ZMx4m52k6j3xJmuCEhB1KRFCVJ_XI5HmnOFUp1fIrljdxc6E3wjaRQ-3Ya_OpLXQEfSYjAudTOM2Hv5UgqLOTA-P6I3Ry13gTTzpMgPfR-sB/s1600/replacing-fret-ukuele-guitar-install-ca-super-glue-accelerator-body-neck-pmico.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjukmGJMFjYFmir6jOmggrWve0t_F5Yp3t9ZMx4m52k6j3xJmuCEhB1KRFCVJ_XI5HmnOFUp1fIrljdxc6E3wjaRQ-3Ya_OpLXQEfSYjAudTOM2Hv5UgqLOTA-P6I3Ry13gTTzpMgPfR-sB/s320/replacing-fret-ukuele-guitar-install-ca-super-glue-accelerator-body-neck-pmico.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I used thin CA (superglue) to put the removed fret back on. It fit pretty tightly in the slot, but I wanted to ensure it would stay in place.<br />
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I put some accelerator on the fret, then ran the CA into the slot and put it in place. Note the tape for protection - that glue is water thin and wants to spread everywhere.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-5P_O6SYppRvTFBD14SGSvFPir0d0ANhygPoCGSBUtPJZphpUVO-EFc5we7i0S2Dhcfn6RCYfqjLqmphyphenhyphenKduinvlTaybLMavERVFkSW668nu3SQfDjauS0jc_oYNrH__roVnwuO6W0QZ3/s1600/stew-mac-neck-rest-guitar-ukulele-fret-work-bench.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-5P_O6SYppRvTFBD14SGSvFPir0d0ANhygPoCGSBUtPJZphpUVO-EFc5we7i0S2Dhcfn6RCYfqjLqmphyphenhyphenKduinvlTaybLMavERVFkSW668nu3SQfDjauS0jc_oYNrH__roVnwuO6W0QZ3/s320/stew-mac-neck-rest-guitar-ukulele-fret-work-bench.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I love my Stew-Mac neck supports. I keep showing them in hopes the Stew-Mac folks will give me some kind of endorsement deal! So far, no luck.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAOJgjYkcLJm7yXcYq94gJ2_k0KZ7d4eC50QZ5dlHXBF3BvkeHZ1DmHdzwiGSSrvGyMOE-oUYFpth4ueFuQj8NSvpWIlpZ1uTdB3TXUfF1hykFeZ1W4S0ElE-ezQkvs6PpdDqn7PlcStFk/s1600/fret-bevel-file-tool-guitar-ukulele.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAOJgjYkcLJm7yXcYq94gJ2_k0KZ7d4eC50QZ5dlHXBF3BvkeHZ1DmHdzwiGSSrvGyMOE-oUYFpth4ueFuQj8NSvpWIlpZ1uTdB3TXUfF1hykFeZ1W4S0ElE-ezQkvs6PpdDqn7PlcStFk/s320/fret-bevel-file-tool-guitar-ukulele.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I'm approaching this as you would if you had just done a refret.<br />
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I take my fret bevel file and have at it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh03nEM1ZAMapAkpukS_sGyGJ8gy_xoWhd8qNcH3_VRp74x-dcZ7XpCnd3uM20qXeO68AZsfs0ebe-psp9o3nw9QpBhBOgbpof9GuyE51FoxJejgun3U-4uNOKuwlrRK0dWEF6Jy2QySBLE/s1600/filing-fret-bevel-ukulele-guitar-edge-sprout-protrude-even.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh03nEM1ZAMapAkpukS_sGyGJ8gy_xoWhd8qNcH3_VRp74x-dcZ7XpCnd3uM20qXeO68AZsfs0ebe-psp9o3nw9QpBhBOgbpof9GuyE51FoxJejgun3U-4uNOKuwlrRK0dWEF6Jy2QySBLE/s320/filing-fret-bevel-ukulele-guitar-edge-sprout-protrude-even.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The file gets most of the excess off, and puts a nice 30 degree bevel on the fret ends.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhquDEs7ThNMVKZH9gHMvfEe26MoOpkupsaGCdqnfciOGByYAVCuzwZcwo7LcxYD7sT-KyWD09MsDxfthz10qPO8c6iZ22VsqX5qbAxMGjIlLWMTE5eZjOX2kJdYQL1uor9u4QIju8tirbp/s1600/fretting-tools-crown-file-three-corner-small-end-shape-guitar-ukulele.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhquDEs7ThNMVKZH9gHMvfEe26MoOpkupsaGCdqnfciOGByYAVCuzwZcwo7LcxYD7sT-KyWD09MsDxfthz10qPO8c6iZ22VsqX5qbAxMGjIlLWMTE5eZjOX2kJdYQL1uor9u4QIju8tirbp/s320/fretting-tools-crown-file-three-corner-small-end-shape-guitar-ukulele.png" width="320" /></a></div>
After beveling, I take any remaining sharp edges off as usual with regular fret files.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr67o-pn0EsTSG6x95yq0zrPnwlNBIYd1MxdrubKlYIceM_edqh82kLqxODUqPastGRHIqba2S2FWyn73LZw-TJ0APvOmlwhGGXIArgGgdZ5JRIczzGIlRxRyAFCP6mmJwMORNw5nsEco8/s1600/stew-mac-fret-erasers-guitar-ukulele-finish-smooth-file-ends-shape.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr67o-pn0EsTSG6x95yq0zrPnwlNBIYd1MxdrubKlYIceM_edqh82kLqxODUqPastGRHIqba2S2FWyn73LZw-TJ0APvOmlwhGGXIArgGgdZ5JRIczzGIlRxRyAFCP6mmJwMORNw5nsEco8/s320/stew-mac-fret-erasers-guitar-ukulele-finish-smooth-file-ends-shape.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The final step is to run over the fret ends with 150 and 400 grit Fret Erasers.<br />
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I always wonder they they call them 'Fret Erasers.' They don't <i>erase</i> the frets, they just make them smooth. Hmmm.<br />
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(There goes my endorsement deal for questioning the name 'Fret Erasers!')<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY2cBKhz7bgzAPtP-riMXtef587gFr_Bo9Fy8pgAoYbbDb0ztWF6viCdHbmPWLWTlXCsgoVT-asXp9488npb70LG1Uz5LXUYGkFMiCD1PzwCd9HePEuCnxQXoo33Pn3pvTCbiu6msXCBQ5/s1600/smooth-fret-ends-bevel-file-shape-ukulele-guitar-collegiate-pmico.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY2cBKhz7bgzAPtP-riMXtef587gFr_Bo9Fy8pgAoYbbDb0ztWF6viCdHbmPWLWTlXCsgoVT-asXp9488npb70LG1Uz5LXUYGkFMiCD1PzwCd9HePEuCnxQXoo33Pn3pvTCbiu6msXCBQ5/s320/smooth-fret-ends-bevel-file-shape-ukulele-guitar-collegiate-pmico.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here are the fret ends. Smooth as the bottom of a baby.<br />
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The process did take some of that fragile finish off...and I touched it up.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEiL5kD15gHwTAnzpS2K213exvnhhVgg9bd1vG42GJlR3SUAz5YPXRTNOWOq1T4-yGAuutRvAR23DF6aSszmj0EHz995KwHOR79yvAFK5viAdsd8wxL0qWtIFpkgJnwG6HbO25VQrFwHBj/s1600/pmico-collegiate-soprano-ukulele-repaired.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="525" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEiL5kD15gHwTAnzpS2K213exvnhhVgg9bd1vG42GJlR3SUAz5YPXRTNOWOq1T4-yGAuutRvAR23DF6aSszmj0EHz995KwHOR79yvAFK5viAdsd8wxL0qWtIFpkgJnwG6HbO25VQrFwHBj/s320/pmico-collegiate-soprano-ukulele-repaired.png" width="240" /></a></div>
Here's the little Collegiate ready to go out and beat its rivals!<br />
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It's surprisingly loud for a soprano and sounds pretty darn good. My friend has Aquila Red Series strings on it and I suspect that's a big factor.<br />
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<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-69452405492319354472019-02-28T12:11:00.001-05:002019-02-28T12:26:33.674-05:00DIY Wooden Drawer Pulls (aka handles)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLxn7Gp6GIg52K4DkdGboVQoYDQjecM60rElPlx-cgu55YTlDIAiQMyA3D0mfAnMBSyP4KmseFQJObnfmP7tm8EX-7Y93piE1VLiGQsjbIO7cDEYMoO8rWhz4eDSJxKpbvR9x4dH9Z4db2/s1600/forstner-bit-drill-press-diy-drawer-pulls-wood-pine.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLxn7Gp6GIg52K4DkdGboVQoYDQjecM60rElPlx-cgu55YTlDIAiQMyA3D0mfAnMBSyP4KmseFQJObnfmP7tm8EX-7Y93piE1VLiGQsjbIO7cDEYMoO8rWhz4eDSJxKpbvR9x4dH9Z4db2/s320/forstner-bit-drill-press-diy-drawer-pulls-wood-pine.png" width="320" /></a><br />
Another great idea I picked up from the Woodgears site was how to make <a href="https://woodgears.ca/drawers/handles.html" target="_blank">wood drawer pulls</a>.<br />
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It seemed logical to have wood pulls, since the whole bench is all about wood working.<br />
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I pretty much followed his design and method to make my pulls. I did vary my dimensions just a touch, mainly because I used 1x2 select pine and used the full width of the board rather than cut them down, so my pulls are a touch wider as a result.<br />
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With a 1 inch forstner bit, drill the inside curves. I cut three pine boards so they'd yield 10 pulls - laid out on 3 pieces with 3 pulls on two of them, and 4 on the other.<br />
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I used my recently <a href="https://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2019/01/restoration-completed-craftsman-king.html">rebuilt King-Seeley press</a> - note the hose from my shop vac sucking up sawdust.<br />
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I had also measured the pulls for their mounting holes and drilled those at this time as well.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6GJlAaL-m5dCwzdYZDn2LC1y4MrTe-enaiMDmxMBWXNpQ6tk2rpSOKJ5djqMAmyQZ-ufn8D3JE56WVlAq7hwOH2SGCcxyGtBLYz7QH3Bo2WmODeEHvTS6saVCGRxqYCRRymFSM75mNQm1/s1600/diy-homebrew-drawer-pulls-handles-scroll-saw-cutting-making-pine-wood.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6GJlAaL-m5dCwzdYZDn2LC1y4MrTe-enaiMDmxMBWXNpQ6tk2rpSOKJ5djqMAmyQZ-ufn8D3JE56WVlAq7hwOH2SGCcxyGtBLYz7QH3Bo2WmODeEHvTS6saVCGRxqYCRRymFSM75mNQm1/s320/diy-homebrew-drawer-pulls-handles-scroll-saw-cutting-making-pine-wood.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Then cut out the inside of the pull, between the holes, with a scroll saw.<br />
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The scroll saw is a new addition - very generously on permanent loan from <a href="http://toymakingdad.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">TMD</a>. I can already see how valuable it will become.<br />
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Two of the ten pulls with their insides cut out.<br />
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You'll see in a minute why I haven't cut them apart just yet.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyt-GbQMqc2g0KAfF_uRc_eq63vFCMkZl9hqfBZeFo_IXKNTeo6dG925pBVQ8RmmB5F0ivqphpvyxJChjQNfNzUnjcJG9bYIZKTssqNiH96XmFCiyG3ozCZ6a_qz3TNTa2b_0EB2AWuS4I/s1600/trimming-handle-pull-drawer-wood-pine-chisel-cut-opening.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyt-GbQMqc2g0KAfF_uRc_eq63vFCMkZl9hqfBZeFo_IXKNTeo6dG925pBVQ8RmmB5F0ivqphpvyxJChjQNfNzUnjcJG9bYIZKTssqNiH96XmFCiyG3ozCZ6a_qz3TNTa2b_0EB2AWuS4I/s320/trimming-handle-pull-drawer-wood-pine-chisel-cut-opening.png" width="320" /></a></div>
There was a small ridge on each one between the drilled hole and the scroll saw cut, so I shaved those down with a chisel. Pine is so easy to work with, the chisel made fast work of this part.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitXLOpCO7FIkNsYz89tJmBJeWCaKMw65CyyqC1LGfiHgjvSGtwTGf1GqOvMa42f6NoCC96k9LPS6p1tgh8S_ikIM-wsxWcixEbd0bhyphenhyphens7F7UWIt5jUDRaX-AT0yGFG-iLCwnt7lEE1opx_/s1600/router-roundover-bit-drawer-pulls-handles-diy-pine-wood-trim.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitXLOpCO7FIkNsYz89tJmBJeWCaKMw65CyyqC1LGfiHgjvSGtwTGf1GqOvMa42f6NoCC96k9LPS6p1tgh8S_ikIM-wsxWcixEbd0bhyphenhyphens7F7UWIt5jUDRaX-AT0yGFG-iLCwnt7lEE1opx_/s320/router-roundover-bit-drawer-pulls-handles-diy-pine-wood-trim.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Now the cool, fun, but really dangerous part.<br />
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With my trim router mounted in my simple DIY 'table,' I routed the inside edges. This is why I left the pulls all together as long as I could - easier and safer to handle this way.<br />
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What I am not showing is what happened next. I cut the pulls apart, then routed the outside edges. Scary, yes. Wear gloves, focus and go slowly. After I did a couple, I was ok, but you need to approach a router bit spinning at 30,000 rpm with a LOT of caution.<br />
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About this time I did start thinking about how much I need a proper router table!<br />
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And here we have ten wood drawer pulls!<br />
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This was a bit tedious, but a lot of fun and productive.<br />
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I splurged for an $8 drawer pull template from the Despot. I could have made one myself, but it would only work for my one specific spacing. I can use this one over again as needed. Eight bucks seemed like a reasonable investment.<br />
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<b>Side story: </b>Found the template on Despot's web site. I armed myself with the <i>exact</i> aisle and bay number where my local Despot has these (supposedly). Went to that location and didn't find them. Asked a clerk. <i>HE</i> couldn't find them. I told him "got this from the web site, you're supposed to have six of them." Sigh.<br />
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Went to <i>ANOTHER</i> Despot (actually a better one, better wood selection there, which is where I got the wood for the bench...). Same similar location - near the drawer pulls. Didn't see them. Then <i>FINALLY</i> I found them, hanging on a column on one of the racks. Lesson: pay attention to the stuff they can hang up! Still, the guy at the first store probably should have seen them.<br />
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After marking the holes, I drill pilot holes for the mounting screws.<br />
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And in a nod to actual craftsmanship, countersink the screw holes from the inside of the drawers.<br />
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Before I mounted the pulls, I decided since I was so close to having the drawers finished, I didn't want to forget to wax the slides to help them, well, slide easier.<br />
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Note my lifetime supply of <a href="https://conservationsupportsystems.com/product/show/butchers-white-diamond-wax/waxes-wax-formulated" target="_blank">Butcher's Bowling Alley wax</a>. Good stuff.<br />
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"One might have to go to a bowling alley to meet a woman of your stature." -Sir John Gielgud (Hobson) to Liza Minelli (Linda Morolla) in <i>Arthur</i>.<br />
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Here they are installed. Really glad I decided to make some - they seem very appropriate for the new drawers.<br />
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<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-42458735789944847752019-02-19T12:04:00.001-05:002019-02-28T12:26:14.737-05:00Hardwood Slides, Pine Fronts for Under-Workbench Storage Cabinet DrawersOnce the "cabinet" and drawers for the under-bench storage was done, I set about making slides for the drawers.<br />
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Translation: we're in trouble now.<br />
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Originally I was going to use metal slides. But after pricing them, I got scared off. Even the cheapest slides could have cost about $10 a pair. Meaning, $100 for all 10 drawers.<br />
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I also started looking at the dressers I have, and saw they used wood slides. Hmmmm.<br />
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While pondering this, and researching on the interwebs, I came across this <a href="https://woodgears.ca/workbench/drawers.html" target="_blank">fabulous web site</a>. Lots of great DIY ideas, including slides. So I borrowed some of his ideas in making slides for my drawers.<br />
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You can see on the picture of the drawer how I put hardwood (poplar) slides on the sides of the drawers. And I'll have mating slides on the cabinet. The slides position the drawer horizontally, and they sit a few millimeters above the drawer sides. So we wind up with hardwood-on-hardwood for the slides instead of plywood. Meaning they will slide more smoothly.<br />
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This whole process was a good learning experience. As you'll see, the drawers didn't come out perfectly, but they are functional, which was the goal. And it somehow seems more appropriate to have wood slides versus metal ones.<br />
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A couple of notes - really lessons learned - about the slides. I went with slides on the <i>sides</i> of the drawers like this because I wanted to maximize the heights of the drawers, since I am working with a fixed space. You'll see slides under the drawers on a lot of dressers and other cabinets (<a href="https://www.rockler.com/classic-wood-center-mount-drawer-slide" target="_blank">see these</a>) - I think they probably work better. But I didn't want to sacrifice vertical height of the drawers by having slides under the drawers.<br />
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Also, I made one small goof. I planned the drawer widths beforehand, based on what I thought the final width would be based on the cabinet plan I drew up. I should have made the cabinet, <i>then</i> calculated the drawer widths.<br />
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As it turns out, I had a lot more width to work with than I thought I would. You can also see the width of the slides are wider than they need to be. Had I better planned this, I could have made the drawers a bit wider, and the slides narrower.<br />
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When I realized this, I did just this on the right-side drawers. As a result, the right-side drawers are wider and deeper than the ones on the left side. Maybe by 3/4 of an inch or so in each direction. Not much, but that made each right-side drawer about 8 or 10 cubic inches bigger total, which means that much more storage space. So, lesson learned.<br />
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Here's an overview of how I made both the drawer slides and the cabinet slides. I had calculated some measurements for the height of both; I did get "reality" measurements once I had the drawers done. Here I'm cutting the cabinet slides. I believe I needed 0.469 inches for the cabinet slides, so I (attempted) to set the bandsaw to rip that much off the 1x3 poplar pieces.<br />
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I realize you can't get to that level of accuracy but I did have a good excuse to use my new Starrett rule which measures 32nds, 64ths, 50ths, and 100ths!<br />
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Now we rip the poplar. I'm using a piece of pine as a feather board/guide - it's attached to my miter gauge.<br />
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I got pretty close, all things considered. Here's a typical piece - actually within a few thousandths. I'll plane and sand these to an exact fit when they all go together.<br />
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I started from the bottom on the left side and worked upward. There are two slides under the drawer which are attached to the cabinet. Then I put two more slides - see a top one here - onto the cabinet. I glued and nailed them to the cabinet.<br />
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Then I repeated this process. The two top slides for this drawer are also the bottom slides for the next drawer.<br />
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This process let me be (reasonably) accurate and ensured the drawers fit pretty well.<br />
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I also made the cabinet slides a bit too wide - I could have cut them down. But by the time I realized it, I had already put a few in place and decided it wasn't a big problem. I would have just saved some wood if they were narrower. Live and learn.<br />
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I also found out using a nail gun can be a bit...unforgiving. I made a couple of goofs like this when putting the slides on.<br />
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By the way, this is the 'revised,' Mark II version of the drawer slides I used on the right-side drawers. I made the drawers wider and ran a strip of poplar on the top of the sides rather than the side.<br />
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A Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel makes short work of an overshot nail.<br />
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Once I had all of the cabinet slides in place, I figured it might be a good idea to double-check the overall fit of the cabinet in the space under the bench.<br />
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It fit fine. Wow. This is going to work!<br />
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Note the left side vs. right side slides - the right side slides are narrower, and the drawers are a touch wider as a result.<br />
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Now we're getting somewhere.<br />
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I used a piece of cardboard to take some measurements for the drawer fronts. There is one taller bottom drawer on each side and four shorter ones above that.<br />
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The drawer fronts will hide the slides from view from the front of the cabinet.<br />
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The stack of drawer fronts ready to go. I spluged for "select" pine (no knots, nicer grain, less warp in the boards) for these, since they'll be the outward face of the cabinet to the world.<br />
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I made one and triple-checked it for fit, then I cut the rest of them.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4lYhUfEAqSr14r42UGcVKNaGnXwMUDLLyL-4ZnOjHME34ljXINj06xAW9yRTxVwvctY_R7gV9KstO7U3nYCIhMDwGWEHEjcgk0ped-SpS8-l8ZgF9vMgUn6pYd4j4a0ooID4T9bUc1jMd/s1600/planing-cabinet-drawers-workbench-fronts-pine-stanley-no-7-vintage-type-12.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4lYhUfEAqSr14r42UGcVKNaGnXwMUDLLyL-4ZnOjHME34ljXINj06xAW9yRTxVwvctY_R7gV9KstO7U3nYCIhMDwGWEHEjcgk0ped-SpS8-l8ZgF9vMgUn6pYd4j4a0ooID4T9bUc1jMd/s320/planing-cabinet-drawers-workbench-fronts-pine-stanley-no-7-vintage-type-12.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Used my trusty Stanley No. 7 (Type 12 I think) plane to shave the fronts down to the exact height needed.<br />
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I wanted some sort of liners for the drawers. I originally was going to use rubber or foam liners similar to the ones in my steel mechanic's cabinets. Then I read on Lumber Jocks about using cork. Great idea, and it seems appropriate to use wood.<br />
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This is Con-Tact self-adhesive liner. It's thinner than I would have liked, but it's very easy to put on. And it's really smart - it speaks English (Natural Cork), French (Revêtement Couverture en Liège, and Spanish (Cubierta de Corcho).<br />
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You have to love tri-lingual cork!<br />
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I figured the cork would be easier to work with if I put it on before I put the drawer fronts on.<br />
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Pocket screws in to hold the fronts to the drawers. They're also glued as the sides and backs were, so it's a very strong assembly.<br />
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I discovered that it helps to drive the screw in partway before the final attachment to the workpiece. The screws are self-threading and it takes a second for them to grab and start to thread. In a couple instances, the screw would try to start, and the whole joint would shift a bit, so I started pre-driving them.<br />
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One drawer down, nine to go.<br />
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The assembly is quite strong. I'm glad I used 1/2 ply for the bottoms, I may be storing tools in these and the extra strength is probably a good thing.<br />
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One other detail - select pine for the bullnose trim on the front edges. This covers up the ugly plywood cabinet edges.<br />
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And there's my trusty new nail gun. Chick-chick-bang-pssst!<br />
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The clearance between the drawer fronts is very close. In a couple spots I had to shave just a touch more off them to get a nice fit.<br />
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Used my wonderful Stanley Sweetheart (ca. 1920) No. 18 block plane. What a great tool.<br />
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The end result. Not great, but not too bad.<br />
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The left-side drawers needed a lot more fitting than the right side. Lesson learned: don't make final measurements too early in the process. Duh.<br />
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Next job is to make custom pine drawer pulls.<br />
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<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-91578544945050153732019-02-12T16:54:00.001-05:002019-02-13T16:40:38.485-05:00DIY Storage Cabinet and Drawers for the Simple DIY Workbench<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQoZ8ypdJHkE8ZXGy2-mT-xcZOR61oOtwOiN-8nNHNzeA-oqGwbJma3ZDLD_VOwMXgZZhr_5pT9hAazo7Nr1x4sTLePTPkBReDkjEdA9SZ8DXhCHTUyGdHRMoS8juVdj33R4cYEl4YrfRK/s1600/plans-drawings-calculations-sketches-designs-workbench-drawers-diy.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQoZ8ypdJHkE8ZXGy2-mT-xcZOR61oOtwOiN-8nNHNzeA-oqGwbJma3ZDLD_VOwMXgZZhr_5pT9hAazo7Nr1x4sTLePTPkBReDkjEdA9SZ8DXhCHTUyGdHRMoS8juVdj33R4cYEl4YrfRK/s320/plans-drawings-calculations-sketches-designs-workbench-drawers-diy.png" width="320" /></a></div>
While I was working on the bench top, it occurred to me that I could really use some organized storage underneath.<br />
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So I set about making all sorts of scribblings, drawings, and calculations and then started in on making an under-benchtop cabinet with drawers.<br />
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Yet another project to sidetrack the main project, which is to have a bench to build guitars on!<br />
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I gathered up some 3/4 inch ply and some common pine and went to work.<br />
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One of my ongoing issues in The Dungeon is my inability to cut large boards into smaller ones for projects. I don't have room for a circular saw, and in any event, they terrify me!<br />
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In my travels on the Interwebs I discovered the <a href="https://www.kregtool.com/store/c48/saw-attachments/p425/accu-cuttrade/" target="_blank">Kreg Accu-Cut Circular Saw Guide</a>, and I procured one.<br />
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You can read a lot about this thing on the web. It works well for what I need. Basically it's a track with guides that a sled goes on. Your circular saw attaches to the sled, and off you go! It does accurate cuts as the name implies.<br />
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One of the biggest issues with a circular saw of course is dust collection. Sawdust goes EVERYWHERE. I do circular saw cuts outside when I can, but it's winter and I can't go out there and saw.<br />
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After looking at some Youtube videos of DIY dust collection for circular saws, I cooked up my own "system." Cheap and cheerful and about 80% efficient! You can see it's just a cardboard box stuck over the saw, with a shop vac hose stuck in the side.<br />
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It does look ridiculous, but it kept the dust from flying around. Some still escaped, but it just went onto the board or onto the floor where I was working. The vacuum captured a lot of it.<br />
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I just pushed the saw along the track with the box over it. I really didn't need to see where the saw was going (ha ha) since it was on the track.<br />
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If I did a lot of this sort of work, I'd cook up something more permanent, but this worked great for this project.<br />
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Here's one cut. It's straight, and lines right up with the track. Whoo hoo.<br />
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I have a whole bunch of joints to make. I sprung for a Kreg pocket hole jig and I am so glad I did. Makes butt joints a good way to do simple joinery.<br />
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This is one end of the basic cabinet I made. Again, it's just 3/4 inch ply joined with pocket screws.<br />
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Even though I clamped it down and squared it up, it wasn't absolutely perfect, but I compensated for it later, as you shall see.<br />
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I built the cabinet as an assembly - it will eventually just slide onto the bottom bench shelf and be screwed into place.<br />
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You can see the cabinet in the back. And the front, the pine drawer sides and backs. There will be 10 drawers total - these are the pieces for 5 of them.<br />
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I thought long and hard about using metal drawer slides, but in the end I opted for making wood slides.<br />
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The Kreg jig I have has a nice base with a clamp. Clamp your workpiece in (in this case a drawer side) and drill your holes.<br />
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Note the little vacuum port - it works well and lets you drill the holes faster - the chips get sucked right up.<br />
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I used my down-and-dirty router "table" to rout rabbets on the backs and sides of the drawers. It's not that accurate, but it got the job done. One of my long-term projects is to make a proper router table - I'm eyeing up a <a href="https://jessem.com/collections/router-lifts-and-plates" target="_blank">Jess-Em Router Lift II</a>, but I'm nowhere near close to that yet.<br />
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The pine I used - from The Despot - comes from Sverige! A nice surprise.<br />
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Screwing the sides onto the backs of the drawers. The clamp you see is a Kreg clamp - it works well but I found it to be a bit clunky and fussy to set up. Kind of a pain when you're making 20 joints like this.<br />
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Note the rabbet - the bottoms will fit into those joints.<br />
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Cut the drawer bottoms, and glue and nail them in. I used a nail gun, since I am simply helpless trying to drive a nail by hand.<br />
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The drawer bottoms are 1/2 inch plywood.<br />
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Simple, yet effective.<br />
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Five drawers done. They don't have fronts yet - that will be one of the last things to go on once the slides are in place in the cabinet. The drawers are very solid and sturdy.<br />
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I'll do the slides in the next post.<br />
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<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-65202228118889848982019-01-17T16:55:00.002-05:002019-02-12T16:56:12.601-05:00DIY Laminated Hardwood (Maple) Workbench TopYou may recall my recent post about my <a href="https://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/11/simple-basic-diy-workbench.html">simple workbench</a>. The bench is a good size suited to my space, but when I built it, I was a bit unsure about the top. I used good quality birch plywood, but it proved to be fairly soft - that is, it began to get dented right away, and a finish right on the ply would look bad.<br />
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I longed for a nice butcher block top. I love maple, and I figured it might hold up better than the plywood top. The problem was the cost was a bit prohibitive, especially with shipping. I considered just sticking a hardboard top on it - it would resist glue and when it got too hacked up, I could just change it out. Looking at them in the local Despot though - boy is that stuff UGLY! I am going to build guitars, and I kept thinking I want a nice looking bench top to inspire me.<br />
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And I also wanted a project I could work on and develop some planing/hand tool skills that would come in handy (heh) for building instruments. Better to mess up on a $10 Despot board than a $100 piece of tonewood, I think.<br />
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Finally I hit on the idea of making my own laminate top from maple boards I could get at the Despot. I knew from <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2010/06/42-tube-amp-diy-project-finished.html">past experience</a> I could get some decent looking figured maple there, so off I went, measurements in hand.<br />
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Here's what I came home with. This is the very rough layout.<br />
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The table is 30 inches wide. Originally I was going to get six 1x6 boards, but I couldn't find many with much flame. However, there were a lot of 1x2s with nice flame. So I got the crazy idea of laminating some 1x6s interspersed with 1x2s.<br />
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Using the 1x2s helped save a little money too.<br />
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Here's a closeup of what I'm planning.<br />
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I went though a lot of wider boards trying to find some with nice figure. And you can see how the 1x2s have good flame.<br />
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I cut the boards to the approximate length of the table - some were a bit longer. But I left some overhang to work with after they're joined.<br />
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Watched some Youtube videos and read my handplane book and did the jointing with my new hero, a Stanley No. 7 jointer plane. I haven't seriously wielded a plane since shop class in high school. Learned a LOT doing the jointing. And for the most part, it came out ok.<br />
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One issue I had was that the 1x2s had a lot of bow in them. In the picture above, you can see that in the space between boards. But clamped together, they came out nicely. As you will see.<br />
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I lined up some Titebond, a glue brush, jar for the glue, and clamps. Many, many clamps.<br />
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I decided to glue two wider boards with one 1x2 in between them at one time, then add boards as I went, rather than try to glue up the whole thing in one shot.<br />
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Here's the first group. It went fine, and was manageable.<br />
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Then I glued another 1x2 and 1x6 to this, etc.<br />
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Going piecemeal allowed me to ensure the joints were as tight as possible on each segment.<br />
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Here's the whole top after gluing.<br />
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Note that the 1x2s sit proud of the other boards. This is by design. It would have been too hard for me, as a beginning jointer, to try and get everything really close.<br />
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I figured I'd just plane down the protruding boards.<br />
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That applied to both sides of the tabletop. I started with the bottom side.<br />
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I needed it to be reasonably flat, in order to ensure there was a strong glue joint between the plywood and the underside of the top.<br />
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Got some good glue squeeze out in the laminating process, a good sign. This will just plane away.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJZLoKkYOfuZuy670fIrPif_oSOCuSGV-zjAGXQsf388CoHTUZ7JmkLFigNXvGmBIBoSojRbu100GeYLoVWOA6bMp6lsIwSQukO5vNbEVE98-aIn6rZwBhmeBviNJB5U_5Q_ezDXltXzDQ/s1600/wood-table-top-warp-uneven-cupping-level-measure-view-twist-hardwood.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJZLoKkYOfuZuy670fIrPif_oSOCuSGV-zjAGXQsf388CoHTUZ7JmkLFigNXvGmBIBoSojRbu100GeYLoVWOA6bMp6lsIwSQukO5vNbEVE98-aIn6rZwBhmeBviNJB5U_5Q_ezDXltXzDQ/s320/wood-table-top-warp-uneven-cupping-level-measure-view-twist-hardwood.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I used a long level to find high spots in the panel. There was one board that had an upward curve (and was therefore cupped on the other side). Again, this is the bottom side - it will be glued to the existing plywood top.<br />
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Note the light coming through the left side of the level - this is how much the top is away from being flat at this point.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0DfQZKIcC_zCE5ZYB_8OZAvQxML7rCxTt2cwOzf7HFLtt0k9U-0MYn47DN0gc817gXZa2-bBaaNxz5Dy0ZRa4CWXTslqNKyPX6GgM5Q9W_5_40mBY9R1jyNNLoKfYd945_fTQKui2M3W6/s1600/flattening-surfacing-level-plane-wood-table-top-boards-square-stanley-7-jointer.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0DfQZKIcC_zCE5ZYB_8OZAvQxML7rCxTt2cwOzf7HFLtt0k9U-0MYn47DN0gc817gXZa2-bBaaNxz5Dy0ZRa4CWXTslqNKyPX6GgM5Q9W_5_40mBY9R1jyNNLoKfYd945_fTQKui2M3W6/s320/flattening-surfacing-level-plane-wood-table-top-boards-square-stanley-7-jointer.png" width="320" /></a></div>
First I planed down the thin boards level with the adjoining boards - I did this lengthwise, with the grain. It went fast.<br />
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Then to get the high spots: the process was to find the high spots, mark them in pencil, then plane with a jointer until it was all level. I did this on a diagonal, one direction then the other, until the top was flat. I would guess I made twelve to fifteen passes until the panel was flat.<br />
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I did use both hands on the plane! I just took this shot for fun.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7HU5WAhl7y3YfqHQ7VJA63NMgdfQO9Axxr-8F5qoiuBNIh76GCaISsKj4eu8q4KCihBeJqKWw8z2KvJYXY3YCICO68KeCOT8Go73R0dPQmTdm4H6YNYnJ5lQ_TZPgaCxuCu6LK1lw6bCD/s1600/stanley-number-no-7-seven-jointer-plane-vintage-1900s-early-long-level-type-10.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7HU5WAhl7y3YfqHQ7VJA63NMgdfQO9Axxr-8F5qoiuBNIh76GCaISsKj4eu8q4KCihBeJqKWw8z2KvJYXY3YCICO68KeCOT8Go73R0dPQmTdm4H6YNYnJ5lQ_TZPgaCxuCu6LK1lw6bCD/s320/stanley-number-no-7-seven-jointer-plane-vintage-1900s-early-long-level-type-10.png" width="320" /></a></div>
My new hero - recently acquired Stanley No. 7 jointer. It's a Type 13, made from 1925-28. I did a lot of reading up on planes and found the best ones are pre-war Stanleys. This was the golden age where craftsman used hand tools - there were no electric planers or drills. So the quality of these planes is good because people made a living with them, day in and day out.<br />
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I sharpened the iron up to 8000 grit with water stones and then stropped the iron with a leather strop. Also did some general tuning.<br />
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I did shop new planes, but the good ones (i.e. Lie-Nielsen) cost a small fortune. Here's the <a href="https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/standard-bench-planes/no.-7-jointer-plane?node=4171" target="_blank">equivalent Lie-Nielsen</a> - I paid about 20 percent of this for my Stanley. The Lie-Nielsen is probably better made, and incorporates the famous Bedrock-style frog, but for a novice, my old Stanley does great. I'm not going to doing a lot of this kind of work anyway.<br />
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Once I got the hang of it, and had the plane tuned perfectly, it was a lot of fun and really rewarding! With each pass I got nice shavings and the plane just ran easily over the top. It was a great learning experience for me to set the plane up and use it.<br />
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I will invest in some good Hock blades at some point, but the old plane irons worked great for now.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSxWCGfEc2xniC6K9p1Q6aCi_dxvhdr8NuAg2LzVHz0wzzVe1V7DM5PhNTgb3pjFOLTRqFqMzQlz38mfBPP-PM72fa5HGK9UTdRLIZ2GcQBeLyGrcw9Sy82zyk9RU_6au7kbJihoIqwTZR/s1600/spreading-brush-wood-glue-table-top-surface-titebond.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSxWCGfEc2xniC6K9p1Q6aCi_dxvhdr8NuAg2LzVHz0wzzVe1V7DM5PhNTgb3pjFOLTRqFqMzQlz38mfBPP-PM72fa5HGK9UTdRLIZ2GcQBeLyGrcw9Sy82zyk9RU_6au7kbJihoIqwTZR/s320/spreading-brush-wood-glue-table-top-surface-titebond.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Once the bottom was flattened, I spread glue on the ply table top to attach the new maple top.<br />
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This Original Titebond has about a 5-minute set time. I needed it! I used a brush to spread the glue - I should have used a roller.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEgP3opmvkwK4dTSD-FX-5bIKKD5JoQdf8M1mK42MAOlthlLOeSCFW0nTo9rFYjnDTEC_rlhDmJ0dAIncwhvAo9VRpX0cL0WphRzYkidyaDIqfu7u1DfPhctPGtVsEBswXN-kGmhL7Lqc-/s1600/titebond-wood-glue-spread-thin-panel-surface-brush-table-bench-plywood-hard.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEgP3opmvkwK4dTSD-FX-5bIKKD5JoQdf8M1mK42MAOlthlLOeSCFW0nTo9rFYjnDTEC_rlhDmJ0dAIncwhvAo9VRpX0cL0WphRzYkidyaDIqfu7u1DfPhctPGtVsEBswXN-kGmhL7Lqc-/s320/titebond-wood-glue-spread-thin-panel-surface-brush-table-bench-plywood-hard.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's a nice thin ocean of Titebond.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju8qivPa_-bjgkiytUqf7LRDENxJ3IEXY3woj0MVTLXP9NCAt9SWYupo7RmMuEVUCrCQcOh4oPQhH_0hwdLgf7IL9MrjAI8wNesSS4cIcLXI2cMcd2veGx4gjR-zLs0vfuaTdmZBNRtZBk/s1600/clamping-gluing-placing-installing-table-top-hardwood-titebond-weight.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju8qivPa_-bjgkiytUqf7LRDENxJ3IEXY3woj0MVTLXP9NCAt9SWYupo7RmMuEVUCrCQcOh4oPQhH_0hwdLgf7IL9MrjAI8wNesSS4cIcLXI2cMcd2veGx4gjR-zLs0vfuaTdmZBNRtZBk/s320/clamping-gluing-placing-installing-table-top-hardwood-titebond-weight.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I was prepared for putting the top on. Had all my clamps adjusted to fit, and I had some heavy stuff to put on the center of the top.<br />
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Made alignment marks on the top beforehand, so it was a matter of lifting the top up, setting it on the glue, making quick adjustments to the alignment, and clamping it down.<br />
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I had a lot of squeeze-out on all the edges, so I was a happy boy.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheT2Pwfiepx1qg3gq1iFwyb6YcH8Ut7sugCzaDGsS_zuqd_Ga2Ry5u-MEtzLhVCW6hiWZACXwfHybW9pxvUvzh-WauhOyAA_a6D-2SxNM-3hNA6SEACfMGId8G1zdrkPBm9AIfij3mYtfk/s1600/planing-smoothing-table-top-board-surface-stanley-vintage-no-7-4-shavings-wax-sole.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheT2Pwfiepx1qg3gq1iFwyb6YcH8Ut7sugCzaDGsS_zuqd_Ga2Ry5u-MEtzLhVCW6hiWZACXwfHybW9pxvUvzh-WauhOyAA_a6D-2SxNM-3hNA6SEACfMGId8G1zdrkPBm9AIfij3mYtfk/s320/planing-smoothing-table-top-board-surface-stanley-vintage-no-7-4-shavings-wax-sole.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I'll write more about leveling the top side next time, but this is an idea of how it went.<br />
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Lots of shavings, adjusting the frog as needed to get a good cut, and keeping the sole waxed. I also did some passes with my No. 4 smoother. What fun and a real sense of accomplishment. I can't wait to thickness guitar sides!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEWH6wbt3pIkA13s5O0aVSUWfYLa1KMnzCk1GfmNlPNPcvN9FG7Q_KQ5dmaS8Dt0vQBX1_Y7atF19evKUoqp-wbCWxwpIcbUoIqlb2ti2zCiOqwzXGCkslHsqnMM4_orsXZLAXICyelKyf/s1600/vintage-early-stanley-wood-planes-bench-jointing-smoothing-type.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEWH6wbt3pIkA13s5O0aVSUWfYLa1KMnzCk1GfmNlPNPcvN9FG7Q_KQ5dmaS8Dt0vQBX1_Y7atF19evKUoqp-wbCWxwpIcbUoIqlb2ti2zCiOqwzXGCkslHsqnMM4_orsXZLAXICyelKyf/s320/vintage-early-stanley-wood-planes-bench-jointing-smoothing-type.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the No. 7 in the back with its older brother, a No. 4 smoothing plane. I can see why some folks collect these - they are super cool, and they work great.<br />
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The No. 4 is a Type 11, made from 1910-18, Stanley made <i>thousands</i> of these, and a great many survived. I shopped on that auction site until I found the right combination of condition and price. They're really wonderful.<br />
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<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-11621458817969720452019-01-06T18:24:00.000-05:002019-01-18T16:44:00.989-05:00Restoration Completed: Craftsman King-Seeley 103.23141 Drill Press Restoration, Pt. 21<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjduMbteRDb3DC_CBl04IZivsXu3JZ1AphzM_U7RkndnRY4OfRt-hFVtrWDfWNWW2gXqMNprfQwc8_7ejMzS99pnbG-lMe068RbwATG5nQ8Ah45Q7-lZGRINY6io46CZGTjmDwAhyphenhyphenXWOqVh/s1600/king-seeley-drill-press-motor-bracket-location-direction-install-mount.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjduMbteRDb3DC_CBl04IZivsXu3JZ1AphzM_U7RkndnRY4OfRt-hFVtrWDfWNWW2gXqMNprfQwc8_7ejMzS99pnbG-lMe068RbwATG5nQ8Ah45Q7-lZGRINY6io46CZGTjmDwAhyphenhyphenXWOqVh/s320/king-seeley-drill-press-motor-bracket-location-direction-install-mount.png" width="320" /></a>Let's put the motor and a belt on and get this puppy going, shall we?<br />
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Here's the cleaned-up motor mounting bracket. It's oriented so it can be adjusted as needed to have the motor align properly depending on its size. I mounted mine with the narrower gap between the adjustment slots and the mounts at the top.<br />
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The original bolts, now cleaned up and ready for action.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzJIUowTJ79sZqSHoXsacXXS_ti-Be-tmq4iKs3BDJ0cLDOIQ0irqFY8XKUUQLJs3ySD1CJvsmw1sK5LyG1KTEIq8_klyAJtXbPL6QiF6PAScSIdC3DSiJVsGBmLDrb6n0Bn97DCirhbp_/s1600/bolt-motor-bracket-king-seeley-vintage-drill-press-restoration.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzJIUowTJ79sZqSHoXsacXXS_ti-Be-tmq4iKs3BDJ0cLDOIQ0irqFY8XKUUQLJs3ySD1CJvsmw1sK5LyG1KTEIq8_klyAJtXbPL6QiF6PAScSIdC3DSiJVsGBmLDrb6n0Bn97DCirhbp_/s320/bolt-motor-bracket-king-seeley-vintage-drill-press-restoration.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Mounting the motor. It's pretty hefty; I put it on the bracket on the bench rather than attached to the press.<br />
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Its height can be fine-tuned once it's mounted.<br />
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The two mounting posts just slide into the press head. You can see the two 1/2 inch bolts that hold it in place.<br />
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Here's the motor pulley installed.<br />
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Note the allen screw that holds it tight to the motor shaft. I snugged it up a bit, then adjusted the motor and pulley up and down until they were aligned as needed with the belt on. Then I took the belt off and tightened up the allen screw.<br />
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In the process of adjusting the motor, I discovered that the slot I devised on the <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/04/new-start-capacitor-and-motor.html">start capacitor box</a> wasn't a solid enough mount to hold it on. It kept popping off.<br />
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So I fastened it to the motor housing with some zip ties.<br />
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The manual has a diagram with pulley settings to achieve the desired spindle speed. Right now I have it set to 771 rpm.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikS6sDNKjx5xpxVlnCdMVXbhFbRad1nZ2Pkuhaz6mHxoPW5ub_9yWvNLsnJwlk32TlqRUlI0c31f7B4cR02K_joSZE6TB_kOTs_wgl5EByJQBfafqm_PQgkC3e4m1zH_BkVctCMQBSRXlL/s1600/king-seeley-drill-press-motor-belt-adjustment-tension.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikS6sDNKjx5xpxVlnCdMVXbhFbRad1nZ2Pkuhaz6mHxoPW5ub_9yWvNLsnJwlk32TlqRUlI0c31f7B4cR02K_joSZE6TB_kOTs_wgl5EByJQBfafqm_PQgkC3e4m1zH_BkVctCMQBSRXlL/s320/king-seeley-drill-press-motor-belt-adjustment-tension.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the press with a new Gates belt installed.<br />
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I'm using a 43 inch belt. Originally I had sourced a 47 inch belt - the same size as the one that was previously installed. But that length put the motor bracket further out from the head, and caused a lot of extra vibration. So a shorter belt it is.<br />
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The manual doesn't specify a belt length, since the type of motor installed might vary the belt needed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgzaUURBwL9W4Yc6NGedNbEM2sKwGeNIEQd6DiIHs_VI5yYOpAK0pBsDcBCQUbi_1WzXOpYyixRTjAqKfeu3-Nw2zvfo7jvduAdHDmrp4ffaNvntUztslazEHkxtf_GGjchMCxfAc7QW6V/s1600/drill-press-belt-adjustment-wedge-tool-vintage-motor-bracket-pry-tension.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgzaUURBwL9W4Yc6NGedNbEM2sKwGeNIEQd6DiIHs_VI5yYOpAK0pBsDcBCQUbi_1WzXOpYyixRTjAqKfeu3-Nw2zvfo7jvduAdHDmrp4ffaNvntUztslazEHkxtf_GGjchMCxfAc7QW6V/s320/drill-press-belt-adjustment-wedge-tool-vintage-motor-bracket-pry-tension.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I cooked up a wedge made of 2x4s to slide between the bracket and the head to tension the belt. I tried a pry bar at first, but it wanted to pop out. The wedge can be hammered (note my mallet) into place from the bottom and will stay put until the belt is tensioned.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie20ieAQfJa5B_DBvDDmGaN4t-ZfP_F7l749Q5M-bb6Dl4NGCyYW7m-ywTER6kif0xRzmXvj5UYWvURDXva_SYAPGdUP5r1zlryo2UjRtYy0yoJ6ifkSdt8j7VyYjiQDTe3tVOA2_HyX9p/s1600/belt-tension-adjustment-bolts-king-seeley-drill-press-vintage.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie20ieAQfJa5B_DBvDDmGaN4t-ZfP_F7l749Q5M-bb6Dl4NGCyYW7m-ywTER6kif0xRzmXvj5UYWvURDXva_SYAPGdUP5r1zlryo2UjRtYy0yoJ6ifkSdt8j7VyYjiQDTe3tVOA2_HyX9p/s320/belt-tension-adjustment-bolts-king-seeley-drill-press-vintage.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's one of the adjustment bolt on the side of the head.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVKVABzqHZ1kfBZnMFBiOFccQqqqe4alIKqR92Oo48SlidhcJb9BdFIcfMqFufHXKLyZ-96PF2DqL3EeXS9xP0kF65Wvc23IDXlFdV_1E9I0R-CG930A-0c66oEXkA33tdXdvMltP12jg3/s1600/craftsman-drill-press-drive-belt-column-height-adjustment.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVKVABzqHZ1kfBZnMFBiOFccQqqqe4alIKqR92Oo48SlidhcJb9BdFIcfMqFufHXKLyZ-96PF2DqL3EeXS9xP0kF65Wvc23IDXlFdV_1E9I0R-CG930A-0c66oEXkA33tdXdvMltP12jg3/s320/craftsman-drill-press-drive-belt-column-height-adjustment.png" width="320" /></a></div>
My "duh" moment. I didn't have the head in the right place on the column...the belt could contact the column when running.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirGR3c_67S3gOd9p40X3bgO12zX6otKznIHxvUS5FXUzPTYT4vdwDmA9trP7eUopuKThx_H2RcAjmHVKiPzlf_4mlvSovgFrZwEeK6-_MygYjK5zlwDoRYPNwEAhmM2ZubHkMJCKZIZS4Q/s1600/supporting-heavy-cast-iron-drill-press-head-adjustment-wood.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirGR3c_67S3gOd9p40X3bgO12zX6otKznIHxvUS5FXUzPTYT4vdwDmA9trP7eUopuKThx_H2RcAjmHVKiPzlf_4mlvSovgFrZwEeK6-_MygYjK5zlwDoRYPNwEAhmM2ZubHkMJCKZIZS4Q/s320/supporting-heavy-cast-iron-drill-press-head-adjustment-wood.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I used a length of 2x4 to prop the head up while raising it on the column.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQKWGRFgp97KeFkesoRX9bd2dlY0dcTJhAwOEWlm52B66rQiL-Qw-snY73DLkm3JeUOVRnTuiQK8APstjzw8sBza_H-ftDc30zzP-dSAFQt1gGXJfiBEhtsHKT8Uan8sHbet8l9n-9klvZ/s1600/drill-press-column-height-craftsman-king-seeley-head-vintage.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQKWGRFgp97KeFkesoRX9bd2dlY0dcTJhAwOEWlm52B66rQiL-Qw-snY73DLkm3JeUOVRnTuiQK8APstjzw8sBza_H-ftDc30zzP-dSAFQt1gGXJfiBEhtsHKT8Uan8sHbet8l9n-9klvZ/s320/drill-press-column-height-craftsman-king-seeley-head-vintage.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Now there's plenty of clearance.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQbEN-VX57HUkrVAuHyXW8wYhMXw_pBIbxwwsdIei9NtSNdWBo4B_CUuDIEMgIo43GeopwdZNZJBauo0WuC65WMSYusuhEZLBq9zERah_Wc0wUSM_vN_Yalsgw2HSqYFIgPwlasHZ4FTwD/s1600/quill-retaining-collar-craftsman-103-23141-press-installing.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQbEN-VX57HUkrVAuHyXW8wYhMXw_pBIbxwwsdIei9NtSNdWBo4B_CUuDIEMgIo43GeopwdZNZJBauo0WuC65WMSYusuhEZLBq9zERah_Wc0wUSM_vN_Yalsgw2HSqYFIgPwlasHZ4FTwD/s320/quill-retaining-collar-craftsman-103-23141-press-installing.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Tightening up the quill retaining collar. The depth adjustment also passes through this collar - you can see its threads protruding through the bottom.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqlp1dxk2e3Yma8MXwV2GEFmjCaRErjaDd4Cr81o8BOZ1yx3mKJZbB-87Ke6VGquSGFOLk1z9X2eSU0s3h2xgqOJ8FHhcTvM54DzcBP_6kQ4coOFqmcKZ6QksODRapPz1Xgv0XFWeFo60e/s1600/feed-pinion-retaining-screw-slot-king-seeley-drill-press.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqlp1dxk2e3Yma8MXwV2GEFmjCaRErjaDd4Cr81o8BOZ1yx3mKJZbB-87Ke6VGquSGFOLk1z9X2eSU0s3h2xgqOJ8FHhcTvM54DzcBP_6kQ4coOFqmcKZ6QksODRapPz1Xgv0XFWeFo60e/s320/feed-pinion-retaining-screw-slot-king-seeley-drill-press.png" width="320" /></a></div>
This is the bolt that locates the feed pinion shaft. There's a slot in the shaft that the bolt fits into. If the bolt isn't there, the pinion will come out of the right side of the head under tension from the feed return spring.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvSe5IcWWIiev0hnYjXyIMY550qkHXvcU9zqbP8qBVVCc84-_lYfb8ZDcv-o2IJZ_rSTwAuXCPh3rJGQwP1JliHOG1_8yFu1HLH5o7sJYrWdnvtL_94agP7MRR8s59Es8rv78f5Tx16s20/s1600/feed-return-adjustment-knob-spring-king-seeley-drill-press.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvSe5IcWWIiev0hnYjXyIMY550qkHXvcU9zqbP8qBVVCc84-_lYfb8ZDcv-o2IJZ_rSTwAuXCPh3rJGQwP1JliHOG1_8yFu1HLH5o7sJYrWdnvtL_94agP7MRR8s59Es8rv78f5Tx16s20/s320/feed-return-adjustment-knob-spring-king-seeley-drill-press.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the feed return tension adjustment. Turning it counter clockwise puts tension on the spring inside the pinion shaft, thus adjusting the return speed of the quill/feed. The small thumbscrew holds the tension.<br />
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It took me a while to suss out how that pinion retaining screw worked. I kept putting tension on the spring, and the pinion kept sliding out on the other side! Then I realized how it worked. Duh moment number two.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNE4BzVNMMswaYj5tRf6Co3uJ0mJwvGOSM7rPP4Ic5le_cyJSHzoEEV4yMItUOBHP2SqiuiW-kmocjvfTb4zUhylDQB6a06RX6JuFK0aMJqA5ar2nBF3ffFlgpYyQWLz_B11sKznaICx7P/s1600/installing-feed-handle-hub-king-seeley-drill-press.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNE4BzVNMMswaYj5tRf6Co3uJ0mJwvGOSM7rPP4Ic5le_cyJSHzoEEV4yMItUOBHP2SqiuiW-kmocjvfTb4zUhylDQB6a06RX6JuFK0aMJqA5ar2nBF3ffFlgpYyQWLz_B11sKznaICx7P/s320/installing-feed-handle-hub-king-seeley-drill-press.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The feed handles just screw into the hub.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiJJvDrkUu6SJPro0oaOcXr-MeakFW1WomNwxDNB1R16CuXGCVtLWpZAU4bf1pIIUrRfjOi50Oj9haEQG0WEm3LFBMmtQZlVLG5Hm_IuP8QP1q_rUcqgc8uh79EHZdWxk11VaE-o6XSY_j/s1600/installing-screw-mount-jacobs-drill-chuck-king-seeley-craftsman-vintage.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiJJvDrkUu6SJPro0oaOcXr-MeakFW1WomNwxDNB1R16CuXGCVtLWpZAU4bf1pIIUrRfjOi50Oj9haEQG0WEm3LFBMmtQZlVLG5Hm_IuP8QP1q_rUcqgc8uh79EHZdWxk11VaE-o6XSY_j/s320/installing-screw-mount-jacobs-drill-chuck-king-seeley-craftsman-vintage.png" width="320" /></a></div>
One of the last things to do - put the rebuilt chuck back on the quill.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqruAx0DHAtclaXXnoKcS79nvnuVVmbLC3uTM9m5hFvLik0F2Mb7AzVAswNr7Yr9hiegPoLQuxoU36rhoGqCVVt7EIl86geE0GvXvW5dfUi87rIIh7n58CEENapD6Pd6HDUgBy5WlRWHlp/s1600/tighening-custom-bracket-installing-screw-mount-jacobs-drill-chuck-king-seeley-craftsman-vintage.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqruAx0DHAtclaXXnoKcS79nvnuVVmbLC3uTM9m5hFvLik0F2Mb7AzVAswNr7Yr9hiegPoLQuxoU36rhoGqCVVt7EIl86geE0GvXvW5dfUi87rIIh7n58CEENapD6Pd6HDUgBy5WlRWHlp/s320/tighening-custom-bracket-installing-screw-mount-jacobs-drill-chuck-king-seeley-craftsman-vintage.png" width="320" /></a></div>
And use my homebrew collar to tighten it up - the reverse of removal.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5Udtm_7h4IDHDbOVSwZOeHELzvhUF_BcSak5V5NaFPEUcSTFOYAB6TrGXsMY09hmGIoDainmnbUo3SmT5ahNPMBnP8IStiAxETXabs578elDij7LREjKjN0TeFOTcAefKDHnAmkVN0t_C/s1600/protractor-table-angle-adjustment-king-seeley-drill-press.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5Udtm_7h4IDHDbOVSwZOeHELzvhUF_BcSak5V5NaFPEUcSTFOYAB6TrGXsMY09hmGIoDainmnbUo3SmT5ahNPMBnP8IStiAxETXabs578elDij7LREjKjN0TeFOTcAefKDHnAmkVN0t_C/s320/protractor-table-angle-adjustment-king-seeley-drill-press.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The table protractor goes back on the underside of the table.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQdglo9GIBTk2ORhSilhDs7BNxUMliKjjtvFqOFUWxXeJ7jJkoA2Q2WdMakkZpYtW-69RoIEKVSsU_HB4uD0T5bfgO1v6Pp3wCovkY-60TUVx78H7P9peHiqustSmuCq7rht1xNNYYg9hq/s1600/vintage-craftsman-king-seeley-chuck-key-storage-location-base-column.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQdglo9GIBTk2ORhSilhDs7BNxUMliKjjtvFqOFUWxXeJ7jJkoA2Q2WdMakkZpYtW-69RoIEKVSsU_HB4uD0T5bfgO1v6Pp3wCovkY-60TUVx78H7P9peHiqustSmuCq7rht1xNNYYg9hq/s320/vintage-craftsman-king-seeley-chuck-key-storage-location-base-column.png" width="320" /></a></div>
And a new chuck key goes into its storage hole on the table.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgykVmK9B5FqXRqREYEr0xS6mk-dqOeBEIQQpKFJI5a_cVuFL_L2i8BI36B32VQ_pr6oZCpnjJ3wm5HvnwEHE7qEFFx6hb7kkuuBjp1GrzCUqgw1cqrf8tuK1CaEjIcY2e_rx7H_q3o4AWl/s1600/column-cap-king-seeley-drill-press.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgykVmK9B5FqXRqREYEr0xS6mk-dqOeBEIQQpKFJI5a_cVuFL_L2i8BI36B32VQ_pr6oZCpnjJ3wm5HvnwEHE7qEFFx6hb7kkuuBjp1GrzCUqgw1cqrf8tuK1CaEjIcY2e_rx7H_q3o4AWl/s320/column-cap-king-seeley-drill-press.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I followed the exploded diagram in the manual as I reassembled everything. One part I notice in the diagram that I didn't have was a column cap.<br />
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Did some measurements, then off to McMaster-Carr to procure something that would work. You want caps? <a href="https://www.mcmaster.com/caps" target="_blank">They got 'em</a>.<br />
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Here it is - there are two arms of thin metal that can be bent as needed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBvuLhB-0h14BmvqYEO50-HvFbkff6essrXPNqf6gFKCclR9eajhKjji1mw77PMuy59sOlF7wNy8HfDtmv3_vW-U1h6TFldwmx7-eKySESa9cAp8MJYr9573M_FV3_BkFjbRXofGrW5w1K/s1600/king-seeley-craftsman-vintage-drill-press-column-cap.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBvuLhB-0h14BmvqYEO50-HvFbkff6essrXPNqf6gFKCclR9eajhKjji1mw77PMuy59sOlF7wNy8HfDtmv3_vW-U1h6TFldwmx7-eKySESa9cAp8MJYr9573M_FV3_BkFjbRXofGrW5w1K/s320/king-seeley-craftsman-vintage-drill-press-column-cap.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The final touch to...ahem...cap off the restoration.<br />
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I wonder how many of these are missing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRSM-Jexph-uwoD1n93dW-2C0JnjViX24dT3MxeBmYM2CrfpYA_rHQKuaX6wx65ujoVxv-mZPUMSSL6HbDPvX3NmPYp5MmCKT2V2GB7RXiYG3mtuWXpImM41UAeErF5VFAZypKdE8wmzYO/s1600/pulley-belt-motor-running-king-seeley-drill-press-restoration.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRSM-Jexph-uwoD1n93dW-2C0JnjViX24dT3MxeBmYM2CrfpYA_rHQKuaX6wx65ujoVxv-mZPUMSSL6HbDPvX3NmPYp5MmCKT2V2GB7RXiYG3mtuWXpImM41UAeErF5VFAZypKdE8wmzYO/s320/pulley-belt-motor-running-king-seeley-drill-press-restoration.png" width="320" /></a></div>
It runs great.<br />
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This was an early test - with the longer drive belt. I had 99% confidence it would work, since I had fired up the motor months ago after <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/04/motor-bearing-replacement-craftsman.html">installing the new bearings</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivC4IgLtZkR_k2ghIAOdVVd0vYvs3D2nO9LMO5FhcvbkqMeQ1NHmpXkUehgdtqbgBnhoxTTC9DHJyXCKqBpZ-qprIkw1WxG9H8Rr4hkk4gbN5R_yqZ2onPqD9F4PuSnQ26J_8M2qs0Xzrz/s1600/king-seeley-jacobs-screw-mount-chuck-running-restored.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="525" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivC4IgLtZkR_k2ghIAOdVVd0vYvs3D2nO9LMO5FhcvbkqMeQ1NHmpXkUehgdtqbgBnhoxTTC9DHJyXCKqBpZ-qprIkw1WxG9H8Rr4hkk4gbN5R_yqZ2onPqD9F4PuSnQ26J_8M2qs0Xzrz/s320/king-seeley-jacobs-screw-mount-chuck-running-restored.png" width="240" /></a></div>
The business end spinning around.<br />
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I sprung for a new drill press vise too - still need to rig up a secure mounting for it.<br />
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The press runs smoothly and quietly. Considering I got it in <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2017/07/craftsman-king-seeley-10323141-drill.html">separate pieces</a> (head off the column and base), it turned out well.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqV6u8jUPb_IJmB1_phOgP0ypudlG32Bycl1iC1JnIY9KqgckVYI_CkUV0CMzL1sS7Wd3elRLQIGZwVELyU5AyoDQSV7x_PoQ7oNKIrGq6wjR0KXM3jzpsjVbIBpOHbyU_XzTzbqtK3b6u/s1600/craftsman-drill-press-103-23141-right-side-restored.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="525" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqV6u8jUPb_IJmB1_phOgP0ypudlG32Bycl1iC1JnIY9KqgckVYI_CkUV0CMzL1sS7Wd3elRLQIGZwVELyU5AyoDQSV7x_PoQ7oNKIrGq6wjR0KXM3jzpsjVbIBpOHbyU_XzTzbqtK3b6u/s320/craftsman-drill-press-103-23141-right-side-restored.png" width="240" /></a></div>
Here's the completed press.<br />
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My friend's Uncle Bill, who was the original owner, would be proud, I think.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUoI9DPC39LhD7CLZgRDMtBUdm5KMlFvfDQZSElI2huoHrwOm48m54B2JzXf08XDmuz1J3WeJ0BF-m0Tl12nKhnrZxJhyAw254aLCn3htQkiojZHBviv_078K83WJgq9JybgJOT2Pn6k2h/s1600/craftsman-king-seeley-nameplate.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUoI9DPC39LhD7CLZgRDMtBUdm5KMlFvfDQZSElI2huoHrwOm48m54B2JzXf08XDmuz1J3WeJ0BF-m0Tl12nKhnrZxJhyAw254aLCn3htQkiojZHBviv_078K83WJgq9JybgJOT2Pn6k2h/s320/craftsman-king-seeley-nameplate.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Nameplate and fabricated aluminum trim.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinmLdu0L6KUgT2rLFNMeXhgFWGX1S1IWC2pnGBlZGR8o9z3PfkF06Cyt2CZfxXt7axIKKs6lV8uKFoSOS-8tPIjrPykcIsjy7vgrmP4pUz3YQ5ziHzroyukmhUKLsdFtuSwUEXSVI9tjIw/s1600/king-seeley-vintage-drill-press-table-clean-polished.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinmLdu0L6KUgT2rLFNMeXhgFWGX1S1IWC2pnGBlZGR8o9z3PfkF06Cyt2CZfxXt7axIKKs6lV8uKFoSOS-8tPIjrPykcIsjy7vgrmP4pUz3YQ5ziHzroyukmhUKLsdFtuSwUEXSVI9tjIw/s320/king-seeley-vintage-drill-press-table-clean-polished.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Everything is nice and clean and polished.<br />
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I'm looking forward to putting it to work!<br />
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<h3>
The complete restoration saga</h3>
<b>Part 1 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2017/07/craftsman-king-seeley-10323141-drill.html">Beginning</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 2 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2017/08/electrolysis-to-remove-rust-craftsman.html">Electrolysis to Remove Rust</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 3 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2017/09/grinding-to-remove-rust-craftsman-king.html">Grinding to Remove Rust</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 4 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2017/10/final-leveling-on-drill-press-base.html">Leveling Base Table</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 5 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2017/10/recreating-model-number-label-with.html">Recreating Model Number Label</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 6 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2017/12/finishing-base-craftsman-king-seeley.html">Refinishing Base</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 7 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/02/removing-motor-craftsman-king-seeley.html">Removing Motor</a></b><b><br />
</b><br />
<b>Part 8 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/03/motor-disassembly-craftsman-king-seeley.html">Motor Disassembly</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 9 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/04/motor-bearing-replacement-craftsman.html">Motor Bearing Replacement</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 10 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/04/new-start-capacitor-and-motor.html">Start Capacitor and Motor Reassembly</a></b><br />
<b><br />
</b> <b>Part 11 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/05/removing-threaded-jacobs-chuck.html">Removing Threaded Jacobs Chuck</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 12 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/05/quill-and-spindle-removal-craftsman.html">Spindle Removal</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 13 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/05/quill-disassembly-craftsman-king-seeley.html">Quill Disassembly</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 14 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/07/new-quillspindle-bearings-and-quill.html">New Quill and Spindle Bearings</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 15 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/07/engine-turned-aluminum-trim-proof-of.html">Engine Turned Aluminum Trim Proof of Concept</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 16 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/08/engine-turned-aluminum-trim-panel.html">Engine Turned Aluminum Trim</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 17 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/09/cleaning-and-polishing-hardware.html">Cleaning and Polishing Hardware</a></b><br />
<b><br />
</b> <b>Part 18 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/09/renovating-vintage-jacobs-633c-drill.html">Jacobs 633C Drill Chuck Restoration</a></b><br />
<b><br />
</b> <b>Part 19 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/10/cleaning-and-polishing-column-craftsman.html">Cleaning and Polishing Column</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 20 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/12/reassembly-begins-craftsman-king-seeley.html">Reassembly Begins</a></b><br />
<b><br />
</b> <b>Part 21 - <a href="https://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2019/01/restoration-completed-craftsman-king.html">Restoration Completed</a></b>Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-50525022108467340492018-12-30T13:29:00.002-05:002019-01-18T16:44:19.318-05:00Reassembly Begins: Craftsman King-Seeley 103.23141 Drill Press Restoration, Pt. 20Finally the moment has arrived where I reassemble the drill press. It kept getting superceded by events but now the moment is here!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhndM5J-jYOK6poovpk7JnjAABfLlDPUQFfiiDMDecNgtbNCOjxtlzaRvW2ERN64N5nnba_eQ5pfsAnozaMVnZazp6iuXDKJSM0NetyfRwXhuuubxCbsM_WmsnDe5oPb9GkyXaWbLqBDn8I/s1600/king-seeley-drill-press-reassembly-chemicals-lubricants-cleaners.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhndM5J-jYOK6poovpk7JnjAABfLlDPUQFfiiDMDecNgtbNCOjxtlzaRvW2ERN64N5nnba_eQ5pfsAnozaMVnZazp6iuXDKJSM0NetyfRwXhuuubxCbsM_WmsnDe5oPb9GkyXaWbLqBDn8I/s320/king-seeley-drill-press-reassembly-chemicals-lubricants-cleaners.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here are some of the chemicals I got together...lithium grease, silicone lubricant (like light oil), anti-seize for fasteners, and two kinds of synthetic grease.<br />
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You'll also note the two bearings that will go on the top pulley shaft.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid44MVUTeKyrPIlE07Za3vadA919kVtHQW2hyphenhyphencdiYOLsIn87Bv2nFg0rT9pB6aCVo-xZX6zj871yWBJK9-8VYb6fal-cRBJ-ZKgZGrQ4iYcRNdbmRA-AfrNxdc2Z0_dOQFo6ib5z8Jh7X6/s1600/king-seeley-top-bearings-pulley.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid44MVUTeKyrPIlE07Za3vadA919kVtHQW2hyphenhyphencdiYOLsIn87Bv2nFg0rT9pB6aCVo-xZX6zj871yWBJK9-8VYb6fal-cRBJ-ZKgZGrQ4iYcRNdbmRA-AfrNxdc2Z0_dOQFo6ib5z8Jh7X6/s320/king-seeley-top-bearings-pulley.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The two Nachi bearings ready to go.<br />
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Moment of irony: when the press was built in 1952 or so, the bearings that were used were American-made. You probably couldn't even source a Japanese bearing. Now here I am using these, which are better quality than the originals.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNPBClNLUCGEWX76sPYG8mgNFqPqm6tQN-CQS9gTz2VlK9nAsGhKwMXspIkbcfVd1tEzsU1FStbwOXyafoNA9H9_mIBayUQKv5Blte4kxxxnVTZltz0Xrp2tRhsBNRPVzyd3UPgHcJ-z-D/s1600/top-bearings-replacement-drill-press-craftsman-king-seeley.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNPBClNLUCGEWX76sPYG8mgNFqPqm6tQN-CQS9gTz2VlK9nAsGhKwMXspIkbcfVd1tEzsU1FStbwOXyafoNA9H9_mIBayUQKv5Blte4kxxxnVTZltz0Xrp2tRhsBNRPVzyd3UPgHcJ-z-D/s320/top-bearings-replacement-drill-press-craftsman-king-seeley.png" width="320" /></a></div>
They slip over the pulley shaft easily.<br />
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I managed to not lose the original circlip and so it goes back on.<br />
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There is a spacer piece between the bearings. I lubricated its inside and ends with some Mobil 1 synthetic wheel bearing grease. Maybe not necessary, but I figured it might make occasional contact with the pulley shaft while rotating, so why not.<br />
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By the way, I strugged for years removing and replacing those clips using a screwdriver or pliers; you may have too. So much easier and safer with the proper tool - for not much money.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqk3RwLuMYaN99D4ENYRqu6dBCFc9Ia2LuRR6u3FeWbiS6j1YHxIFnZ79gqkABj9jebqhEty6sODTPOVOeCEVrGx4KoflWCHxRKTAPknfwNBx_p2WKTDtwa1Lbp3qWixkwplylFspNJNyB/s1600/top-pulley-drill-press-king-seeley-bearing-replacement.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqk3RwLuMYaN99D4ENYRqu6dBCFc9Ia2LuRR6u3FeWbiS6j1YHxIFnZ79gqkABj9jebqhEty6sODTPOVOeCEVrGx4KoflWCHxRKTAPknfwNBx_p2WKTDtwa1Lbp3qWixkwplylFspNJNyB/s320/top-pulley-drill-press-king-seeley-bearing-replacement.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The pulley assembly drops right in with a gentle mallet tap.<br />
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There are two retaining screws - I believe they are 8-32 x 1 1/2 inches - that go into the side of the head and locate the pulley shaft in place. They need to be reinstalled, or the pulley will tend to bounce up and down and create vibration. My original screws were trashed when I removed them, so I sprung for new stainless steel screws.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRfbFp0I2B7uGVMO-NBhYytiLhC3ufsiQ2PM5ZejM-v2SxDGNLrsRAwU301qK-rIERX6r2ps_xECC5UjdfChyphenhyphenWgpSz_Gg5aXF92rZ_YmWEFFi4Tzmx6RmxnQbZLS5EWkstqa_W3XUN4P5e/s1600/craftsman-vintage-drill-press-restoration-lock-sleeve.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRfbFp0I2B7uGVMO-NBhYytiLhC3ufsiQ2PM5ZejM-v2SxDGNLrsRAwU301qK-rIERX6r2ps_xECC5UjdfChyphenhyphenWgpSz_Gg5aXF92rZ_YmWEFFi4Tzmx6RmxnQbZLS5EWkstqa_W3XUN4P5e/s320/craftsman-vintage-drill-press-restoration-lock-sleeve.png" width="320" /></a></div>
There are several column locking shafts that go through the head horizontally and hold the table and the head in place.<br />
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This is one of them, I lubricated it with a light coat of synthetic grease. These parts don't rotate after they're installed, but the grease made assembly a tad easier, and will protect the shafts from corrosion for decades.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2c8TWM1EissG4DMro0_ofsMNGt1BAGFh9ETo-v0leYMNKd7dtvR5QIdhhwmWTg_n60GjlavGVtI-ZhOu0CDejt0WNmqfCh5qwTm1jnd9Kz0R2SAgDHTi3_kMs-PQrh05VNxeenqDVdLVS/s1600/klingspor-sandflex-block-bolts-cleaning-rust-corrosion-removal.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2c8TWM1EissG4DMro0_ofsMNGt1BAGFh9ETo-v0leYMNKd7dtvR5QIdhhwmWTg_n60GjlavGVtI-ZhOu0CDejt0WNmqfCh5qwTm1jnd9Kz0R2SAgDHTi3_kMs-PQrh05VNxeenqDVdLVS/s320/klingspor-sandflex-block-bolts-cleaning-rust-corrosion-removal.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I also used a Sandflex polishing block to clean up any light corrosion on hardware that I missed earlier in the process. That bolt is nice and shiny now.<br />
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You might think "why bother?" but my thinking is that I have it apart, I'm trying to restore it so it's like a well-maintained original, so why not? Only takes a few seconds to do it right.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6aWlBivxOA9DozHP1v8tr2v767RjJjfJflBMINEM9e0KIcB7PVQ8d1hb6OW2OtjxZBC4qYDqixy7oscrIwkyx6MsmmALyTFuOHs-yKOk-NH4WHTezoaQZyltIXPKCrh0bA_dgZN9ZPyKJ/s1600/drill-press-king-seeley-reassembly-earls-anti-sieze-bolts-screws.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6aWlBivxOA9DozHP1v8tr2v767RjJjfJflBMINEM9e0KIcB7PVQ8d1hb6OW2OtjxZBC4qYDqixy7oscrIwkyx6MsmmALyTFuOHs-yKOk-NH4WHTezoaQZyltIXPKCrh0bA_dgZN9ZPyKJ/s320/drill-press-king-seeley-reassembly-earls-anti-sieze-bolts-screws.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The other thing I did on reassembly is to put a touch of anti-sieze compound on all fastener threads. It will be easy to take apart if needed, and it will again provide corrosion protection.<br />
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That's the brush from the jar in my hand, NOT a fastener! The stuff is really messy but I still love it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibNqUygbb3D81wi-3RBu0uFVRKDuMRFsUIN6at90wj8AWEoX_Op4Gpxv7ABk4bB0-XKm3bvZHA6aAhotJtY94S4VrzWz5ySyxiStnyyru8mEjI2OVRLA_6pUPrDMChDL8DjX-3JuR-SnFZ/s1600/king-seeley-quill-reassembly-spacer-play-end-vibration-fix.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibNqUygbb3D81wi-3RBu0uFVRKDuMRFsUIN6at90wj8AWEoX_Op4Gpxv7ABk4bB0-XKm3bvZHA6aAhotJtY94S4VrzWz5ySyxiStnyyru8mEjI2OVRLA_6pUPrDMChDL8DjX-3JuR-SnFZ/s320/king-seeley-quill-reassembly-spacer-play-end-vibration-fix.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The quill shaft - long story short.<br />
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I put the quill in, and assembled the whole press. When I ran it, I found I had a bad vibration from the front - the whole drive was shaking.<br />
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Turns out there was vertical play in the quill. There is a locking collar (right side in the picture) that locks up against a thin steel washer and rubber washer. The purpose is to eliminate end play on the quill shaft.<br />
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I had about 1/32 of a inch - maybe 1.5 mm - of play and it was causing the vibration. Solved the issue by putting second washer - the thicker one - on the shaft to take up the play. The rubber washer has shrunk over the decades and didn't take up the play on its own. This was an easy fix and solved the issue.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj05yFdsDOJHo3Fno9eM4QOVyInahYC7vftbldx3E0jadclcJmD4ZQ38EqXK0T1rWJ9i2HBooDw1Uf_nwZKXYkefNdnSRvgYjvQGvA9cL5UT5YXKGs83n8WkKIB-0vDeNndCYAaF0WbqrAV/s1600/drill-press-quill-lubricating-mobil-one-synthetic-grease.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj05yFdsDOJHo3Fno9eM4QOVyInahYC7vftbldx3E0jadclcJmD4ZQ38EqXK0T1rWJ9i2HBooDw1Uf_nwZKXYkefNdnSRvgYjvQGvA9cL5UT5YXKGs83n8WkKIB-0vDeNndCYAaF0WbqrAV/s320/drill-press-quill-lubricating-mobil-one-synthetic-grease.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Modern synthetic grease on the quill.<br />
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King-Seeley says to use "cup grease" here. I presume they mean "cup" as in a wheel bearing cup, so that's what I used.<br />
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When I originally took the quill apart, there was decades-old grease just caked on here. Hopefully this modern grease will last a long time and not dry up so much.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDunP7hqHi3iT6LviF5AC3bVS4LYX5ql7MgdUupt4s-fnMmGIicyT9OcNYgKyqYQ8lvD7ly-RyrHPrfTWZshskO5HrG0j_mCEC-mIYwq99O42_AMQSjWH1pMyRy-LDQYBj-srSQTFDoxK6/s1600/king-seeley-press-quill-reassembly.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDunP7hqHi3iT6LviF5AC3bVS4LYX5ql7MgdUupt4s-fnMmGIicyT9OcNYgKyqYQ8lvD7ly-RyrHPrfTWZshskO5HrG0j_mCEC-mIYwq99O42_AMQSjWH1pMyRy-LDQYBj-srSQTFDoxK6/s320/king-seeley-press-quill-reassembly.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The quill easily slides in from the bottom. I think this was a test fit - note the quill was yet to be lubricated.<br />
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Remember that the teeth face backward - they'll engage with the feed pinion.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfWnGgNlh2pNfO_zZ5RNGPSNCn5m7sGb3WRZ16MCRSSPKN5UrgVET9K34xZdFVzme-t4fFxoifFgRYi1uvLNcZGgDLlUdaJZ9KJlsBIQ2_IWdzQw-IzAZW_fkfT7F5juUYMN4TE8hWkmav/s1600/king-seeley-drill-press-quill-restored-refitting-reassembly-pulley-drive.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfWnGgNlh2pNfO_zZ5RNGPSNCn5m7sGb3WRZ16MCRSSPKN5UrgVET9K34xZdFVzme-t4fFxoifFgRYi1uvLNcZGgDLlUdaJZ9KJlsBIQ2_IWdzQw-IzAZW_fkfT7F5juUYMN4TE8hWkmav/s320/king-seeley-drill-press-quill-restored-refitting-reassembly-pulley-drive.png" width="320" /></a></div>
We're looking at the quill and its splined shaft from the back of the head. The whole head is still upside down at this point.<br />
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You can see how the quill splines engage with the top pulley assembly.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjioygd0TdkZTGXIKODA-VsSRpeHGmY6B06jSIS9fSPB_K-iBi0wUZBk9MYhUg7by9MnJNR4HIrpURzcSkl_zDm004kx_3ujtzQflRn0Dprjgqoq2tH8Llv2rCuPlnwOcLdNCcgyEKy-a_d/s1600/king-seeley-craftsman-130-24131-press-pinion-fitting-assembly-lubrication.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjioygd0TdkZTGXIKODA-VsSRpeHGmY6B06jSIS9fSPB_K-iBi0wUZBk9MYhUg7by9MnJNR4HIrpURzcSkl_zDm004kx_3ujtzQflRn0Dprjgqoq2tH8Llv2rCuPlnwOcLdNCcgyEKy-a_d/s320/king-seeley-craftsman-130-24131-press-pinion-fitting-assembly-lubrication.png" width="320" /></a></div>
And the feed pinion engages with the quill.<br />
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It's really straightforward to put it all back together, nice to be using clean lubricated parts.<br />
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For a moment I imagined myself as an assembler in the King-Seeley factory in Michigan in the early 1950s.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtwrU4i5BIZWhI3prdeKQzHf1GiVwQURVc8BH68Dqd6OR-oGtiozx0npenoJuqs2X3GlSYEhxQjyWm3kRnirsBy5guAfeitmU83WfqG-RblDNVoS8btgipzDJdUI2Jpi2ym2ktQ4lCA-pB/s1600/craftsman-drill-press-quill-lock-feed-assembly-restore.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtwrU4i5BIZWhI3prdeKQzHf1GiVwQURVc8BH68Dqd6OR-oGtiozx0npenoJuqs2X3GlSYEhxQjyWm3kRnirsBy5guAfeitmU83WfqG-RblDNVoS8btgipzDJdUI2Jpi2ym2ktQ4lCA-pB/s320/craftsman-drill-press-quill-lock-feed-assembly-restore.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Quill lock lever (front) and tension adjustment (back) in place.<br />
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I'll put the chuck on when the head is back on the column.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlEUX2pD9wARMzUE3Umub9jzyGGZ2xslamPGDB_u0WH14PER3UT_wOasdGwnRvnvj9JKt3aDt9eiovt7qD93_4kRc0dz5JL5H4di6h-beoA6WjJ48R58yO3ZODENUJUr2ULPMsmgdG1iyO/s1600/bora-machine-wheels-move-table-drill-press.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlEUX2pD9wARMzUE3Umub9jzyGGZ2xslamPGDB_u0WH14PER3UT_wOasdGwnRvnvj9JKt3aDt9eiovt7qD93_4kRc0dz5JL5H4di6h-beoA6WjJ48R58yO3ZODENUJUr2ULPMsmgdG1iyO/s320/bora-machine-wheels-move-table-drill-press.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Since the press is so heavy, and I'd like to have some mobility, I made a mobile platform using a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Portamate-PM-1100-Universal-Equipment-Stability/dp/B06W5JJ2QN/ref=pd_bxgy_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06W5JJ2QN&pd_rd_r=8cd85513-0c52-11e9-8165-45849ee12971&pd_rd_w=BhSn2&pd_rd_wg=cbOXf&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=MJPP6GYDVFYD76P68JEF&psc=1&refRID=MJPP6GYDVFYD76P68JEF" target="_blank">Bora base kit</a>.<br />
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The base itself is 3/4 inch plywood. The wheels are pretty well designed and it's easy to put together.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmyoueZfvoo0wPgNzEQgw89XI9y25FakhNEyRYNdd4WqBqlXtphNnQwGZi34OJ8NmWK5hahBnDo37byQASZjMY3nCBMqbZPpSC6ahsvCWaDie0ohLAL43kzLZft45p7ML7-oYbumSvRhhT/s1600/bora-machine-wheels-platform-drill-press-craftsman-king-seeley-base-mobile.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmyoueZfvoo0wPgNzEQgw89XI9y25FakhNEyRYNdd4WqBqlXtphNnQwGZi34OJ8NmWK5hahBnDo37byQASZjMY3nCBMqbZPpSC6ahsvCWaDie0ohLAL43kzLZft45p7ML7-oYbumSvRhhT/s320/bora-machine-wheels-platform-drill-press-craftsman-king-seeley-base-mobile.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Remember the adventure removing the rust from the base? Here it is installed on the mobile base. A far cry from <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2017/08/electrolysis-to-remove-rust-craftsman.html">where it was</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW0F53iCc_pM4W-XSSmxqz9vdg5zqD0uiIxjKxVfwFEaEzxL3vH_cg6cXSIvnQrVwZcN2I-5C0ywCKR9-uvINgOyCaRNziMddJKtn6Lrm90w-ls_HTzc3ESx20CnizH7A_rEHvxMJuMo60/s1600/drill-press-base-shoe-king-seeley.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW0F53iCc_pM4W-XSSmxqz9vdg5zqD0uiIxjKxVfwFEaEzxL3vH_cg6cXSIvnQrVwZcN2I-5C0ywCKR9-uvINgOyCaRNziMddJKtn6Lrm90w-ls_HTzc3ESx20CnizH7A_rEHvxMJuMo60/s320/drill-press-base-shoe-king-seeley.png" width="320" /></a></div>
There's a shoe that goes in the back of the casting where the column fits into the base. I coated it, and the inside of the casting, with anti-sieze. It may help make it easier to take apart in the future if needed. (Not by me, I sincerely hope).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS0VcriAJ5aTisnucb7dMkQD4jGMGrD9Xq4kYXreL1dlup_PJ62n5Pzxluoj2b6cVSNWjzB6r6asYsweoql-jZiG8FVK06o_v7akzWPvhj5RurPk4kPVwoWDLCuMxjXiFOm9uZJd2QfAmX/s1600/vintage-drill-press-column-installation-base.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS0VcriAJ5aTisnucb7dMkQD4jGMGrD9Xq4kYXreL1dlup_PJ62n5Pzxluoj2b6cVSNWjzB6r6asYsweoql-jZiG8FVK06o_v7akzWPvhj5RurPk4kPVwoWDLCuMxjXiFOm9uZJd2QfAmX/s320/vintage-drill-press-column-installation-base.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I didn't have an exact idea of how hard it would be to get the column back in or how deep it should sit, so I measured to the bottom of the base casting and marked that dimension on the column with tape.<br />
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I figured I'd have to drive the column in with a mallet and wanted to have an idea of how far along I was.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-G29BWxGcg_8qoLJuyWAK54tISszGgpmMDa_Wr9QQQlUZzoI1dCVq6L0i2gqy999Yl6RXWcnsOEVYwrF8__LQc7h2WvsNJWVAs55ipWNwq9JLaDmEWiDUf084DPgyY-yJOC-cjKWU9RRd/s1600/drill-press-vintage-king-seeley-column-installation-base.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-G29BWxGcg_8qoLJuyWAK54tISszGgpmMDa_Wr9QQQlUZzoI1dCVq6L0i2gqy999Yl6RXWcnsOEVYwrF8__LQc7h2WvsNJWVAs55ipWNwq9JLaDmEWiDUf084DPgyY-yJOC-cjKWU9RRd/s320/drill-press-vintage-king-seeley-column-installation-base.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Gave the column a turn and...whoosh!...it dropped right down into place! It thunked when it hit the base.<br />
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Wow. Happy happy.<br />
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(You may recall how I <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2017/07/craftsman-king-seeley-10323141-drill.html">got it out originally</a>).<br />
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It will actually turn easily now that is clean and lubricated, which is why there is a shoe to lock it in place.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCqfg9h2NNC8j1bQQnhchU7mf2gusUBzlc3U_rb55xEPfz_37G3ZX8BesG_kOrykjLM_oheRVmVfjjF0yxccFViXtIlGt8LdgKNMGCXPMWtqSaytST5mN8a-Ke_Rq5I333ujvg1kguDi7p/s1600/king-seeley-craftsman-vintage-drill-press-collar-reassembly.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCqfg9h2NNC8j1bQQnhchU7mf2gusUBzlc3U_rb55xEPfz_37G3ZX8BesG_kOrykjLM_oheRVmVfjjF0yxccFViXtIlGt8LdgKNMGCXPMWtqSaytST5mN8a-Ke_Rq5I333ujvg1kguDi7p/s320/king-seeley-craftsman-vintage-drill-press-collar-reassembly.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the table support showing the column locks I referenced earlier.<br />
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You can see how they're chamfered - the chamfer will lock against the column. The sleeve on the right is threaded - the bolt or handle slides through as shown here, then turning it engages the threaded sleeve to tighten and lock the sleeves against the column.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsR6YI_xIO5VS5qYj2hF8gBAzpsFV7S1jAFD6iUjqvqlhJKYamqDDDhqI8c5XCjdt2l-m55F57-Jnzx8i-hVZw8REPd9W_HK7JN3eTqqjLbzYKKb5UX7GrYDo2S0D2Cmb0HmMCURNdgCpN/s1600/drill-press-column-installation-lubricating-vintage.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsR6YI_xIO5VS5qYj2hF8gBAzpsFV7S1jAFD6iUjqvqlhJKYamqDDDhqI8c5XCjdt2l-m55F57-Jnzx8i-hVZw8REPd9W_HK7JN3eTqqjLbzYKKb5UX7GrYDo2S0D2Cmb0HmMCURNdgCpN/s320/drill-press-column-installation-lubricating-vintage.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I sprayed the top of the column with silicone lube to help the table support and head slide on easier.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7JanQ81wYRQJJlmxdQwfQn9y69NSoY6Jcskj-GdAxFmNLermYRDJLmnNoxLJ9vLDhXY44ZotvUZrPUgMvJIOfT8-OmVfq5Y6PYe-jdGzFHf-DXuKcpeqDN22ZbyF5QMygchD5qGDZN2kl/s1600/drill-press-vintage-table-support-bracket-installation-column-craftsman.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7JanQ81wYRQJJlmxdQwfQn9y69NSoY6Jcskj-GdAxFmNLermYRDJLmnNoxLJ9vLDhXY44ZotvUZrPUgMvJIOfT8-OmVfq5Y6PYe-jdGzFHf-DXuKcpeqDN22ZbyF5QMygchD5qGDZN2kl/s320/drill-press-vintage-table-support-bracket-installation-column-craftsman.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here I'm tapping the table support onto the column using a pine scrap as a caul. It went on, but it was a bit of a battle. So I made some two adjustments to my technique.<br />
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First, it's too hard to try and fit the parts on with the column upright. They're just too heavy and awkward to handle.<br />
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After I battled with the table support, I decided to tilt the whole column/base backward, supported by a box, to make it easier to access.<br />
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The second issue was that the top edge of the column is pretty rough. I took a grinder to it to make a smooth chamfered edge so the head would slide on easier.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAmfcNKEzTmEpSlQeUEsbrhDtQiSGAuEYstI7xBabJf5_ACHBTUv_lAx6t0dyATkLcMdePTyOD38mSErT0N8FN3y3A9aMZjD9cCKa_Sswfd8AqjLwfOsPAcT8dKr-pae0ozZmAw62IBiWt/s1600/table-support-bracket-lock-king-seeley-press.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAmfcNKEzTmEpSlQeUEsbrhDtQiSGAuEYstI7xBabJf5_ACHBTUv_lAx6t0dyATkLcMdePTyOD38mSErT0N8FN3y3A9aMZjD9cCKa_Sswfd8AqjLwfOsPAcT8dKr-pae0ozZmAw62IBiWt/s320/table-support-bracket-lock-king-seeley-press.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The table support tightens as noted with a handle.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5vHYPURdf1keFu76TP3ml9tu2OrYYyqvcly_oqB7EWnaYzPoKqZaFaqdLFVVW1A4TytyLrZsd8jKNDXYHNJXt5ENUa5e3pnqix18N9ukJYj2SEID3n22HCfypAbs1TT3ZZ2kEl9EMG5Z8/s1600/king-seeley-drill-press-table-support-installed.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5vHYPURdf1keFu76TP3ml9tu2OrYYyqvcly_oqB7EWnaYzPoKqZaFaqdLFVVW1A4TytyLrZsd8jKNDXYHNJXt5ENUa5e3pnqix18N9ukJYj2SEID3n22HCfypAbs1TT3ZZ2kEl9EMG5Z8/s320/king-seeley-drill-press-table-support-installed.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here we have the table support in place.<br />
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The table itself simply slides over the round fitting on the front.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMDTLOKbZR8-j_9D1QoQf9qe5EYdVcMdGj-T4aOoUM38XfDNEYwxRNal6TpLpBEAadlZ8m60aHNZsZ754e91onqu8Li8jcMAo2g5ZfYYvwuaCq_ozFviwKLT0iVpXfP-1i1VMTuc8HhRfw/s1600/table-tilt-adjustment-nut-lock-king-seeley.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMDTLOKbZR8-j_9D1QoQf9qe5EYdVcMdGj-T4aOoUM38XfDNEYwxRNal6TpLpBEAadlZ8m60aHNZsZ754e91onqu8Li8jcMAo2g5ZfYYvwuaCq_ozFviwKLT0iVpXfP-1i1VMTuc8HhRfw/s320/table-tilt-adjustment-nut-lock-king-seeley.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Then there's a bolt under the table that locks it into place. This is the tilt adjustment. Loosen it and the table can be angled as needed to drill on an angle into a workpiece.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLZUFit_bd07uoxvCrjPMMN4oAlKzme5Sc0uIVpaYFiirtbSj5S1Q7gK7VCn7oIlEzhoUDwnl_oRTDeFTE7x3rZApAiWiYvD0g9nJE37ua5FYaBGj3K766xiKplwz95ttQUoJNLGsgmmtN/s1600/vintage-craftsman-103-23141-table-tilt-lock-pin.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLZUFit_bd07uoxvCrjPMMN4oAlKzme5Sc0uIVpaYFiirtbSj5S1Q7gK7VCn7oIlEzhoUDwnl_oRTDeFTE7x3rZApAiWiYvD0g9nJE37ua5FYaBGj3K766xiKplwz95ttQUoJNLGsgmmtN/s320/vintage-craftsman-103-23141-table-tilt-lock-pin.png" width="320" /></a></div>
A pin locks the table into a horizontal postion.<br />
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Note the hole to the right on the support bracket - that's where we park the chuck key.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYE_whQymXo4xaLK_m7KerV_BHE3VvOxleQ04row6mxNc3s9q7_i_f-uz4GIlkgcSVSCTqIA21xTWseelALwGgfNl_UcOBxKHTLCsHh7Ig0bAAQqer3XFPJvs4yrVrnU7vPgnpB8GdXzXI/s1600/king-seeley-craftsman-130-24131-drill-press-head-installed-restored.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYE_whQymXo4xaLK_m7KerV_BHE3VvOxleQ04row6mxNc3s9q7_i_f-uz4GIlkgcSVSCTqIA21xTWseelALwGgfNl_UcOBxKHTLCsHh7Ig0bAAQqer3XFPJvs4yrVrnU7vPgnpB8GdXzXI/s320/king-seeley-craftsman-130-24131-drill-press-head-installed-restored.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I won't mislead you. Unless you are incredibly strong, the head is a beast to put on the column. As I mentioned, I wound up tilting the column and base, supported it on an angle, and slid the head on.<br />
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Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures but you can imagine how I did it. A battle, but it does go on.<br />
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Here it is.<br />
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Note the column lock to the right of the feed hub. You must have that installed on the head first, and tighten it securely once the head is on. Otherwise, the weight of the head will make the whole thing want to slide rapidly down the column! That didn't happen to me, fortunately.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhywD54CwSQSz17M6j0HpK5_tWF7eeCyXQ7ZblqB53pEWU4OJinEh-mWvjzP8Xxf9IzovFpqXG8tlMxowdhNJaLlIKTYxkfs2p146F_qvKQ8KPoO1oM_tZmcVgmxB5hKFKkIUyk28YcNG_/s1600/king-seeley-craftsman-drill-press-head-installed.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhywD54CwSQSz17M6j0HpK5_tWF7eeCyXQ7ZblqB53pEWU4OJinEh-mWvjzP8Xxf9IzovFpqXG8tlMxowdhNJaLlIKTYxkfs2p146F_qvKQ8KPoO1oM_tZmcVgmxB5hKFKkIUyk28YcNG_/s320/king-seeley-craftsman-drill-press-head-installed.png" width="320" /></a></div>
A view from behind. Note the column lock handle on the right.<br />
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Once you get that bottom hole in the head (ha ha) over the column, it gets easier to slide the head on.<br />
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There are finished surfaces inside those holes the column passes through. I had polished them and lubricated them before assembly. If it ever has to come apart...well, hold that thought.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmj0NsNQW-FhYNdbUUK-CyYhxQSxobTrIkZdSDLPxOLEOqFJHc7O7Q4SmwQq0BZRfyVj_VUGdO6owJE37IX4U-cRtH9TMpX_xrrYSLzrCeKt3KGfZNqueYTh2mg85DX92txDdeMzCZkWY-/s1600/drill-press-collar-piece-thing-safety.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmj0NsNQW-FhYNdbUUK-CyYhxQSxobTrIkZdSDLPxOLEOqFJHc7O7Q4SmwQq0BZRfyVj_VUGdO6owJE37IX4U-cRtH9TMpX_xrrYSLzrCeKt3KGfZNqueYTh2mg85DX92txDdeMzCZkWY-/s320/drill-press-collar-piece-thing-safety.png" width="320" /></a></div>
This is a column safety lock (or "<i>saftey</i>" as I saw it spelled in an ebay listing...). It apparently was an option from Sears; the drill press' manual doesn't show it in the exploded diagram.<br />
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I followed the diagrams and my pictures of the disassembly to put the press back together, so I was surprised when I was left with this piece - saying to myself, "Self, where does this go?"<br />
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I reached out to <a href="http://toymakingdad.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">TMD</a> for assistance. He researched on the Interwebs and discovered what it was.<br />
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Of course, I had already put the head on before I discovered what the lock was for. Naturally.<br />
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I took the head off - at least it wasn't too hard to do given my newly found expertise - and put the lock on.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8oDIQmHM8jHygcloKmTv4kXFysvS65D4WvxD-lSl9jD30-wqlnFKAUGFlxjQsSMMIEmgnjhruNLpTuyeSDYgHy9KCRixyKTDhtsPici5v3v0t_gCpC3s6dt_j4qD65SiRQmzQiEJOkGis/s1600/king-seeley-drill-press-safety-collar-installed.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8oDIQmHM8jHygcloKmTv4kXFysvS65D4WvxD-lSl9jD30-wqlnFKAUGFlxjQsSMMIEmgnjhruNLpTuyeSDYgHy9KCRixyKTDhtsPici5v3v0t_gCpC3s6dt_j4qD65SiRQmzQiEJOkGis/s320/king-seeley-drill-press-safety-collar-installed.png" width="320" /></a></div>
This is the lock fitted. Some of the pictures of similar presses on the Interwebs show this lock, and some don't...which is why I believe it was likely an option.<br />
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Ok, next time, we put a belt on, fire it up and do some fine tuning.<br />
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<h3>
The complete restoration saga</h3>
<b>Part 1 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2017/07/craftsman-king-seeley-10323141-drill.html">Beginning</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 2 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2017/08/electrolysis-to-remove-rust-craftsman.html">Electrolysis to Remove Rust</a></b><br />
<br />
<b>Part 3 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2017/09/grinding-to-remove-rust-craftsman-king.html">Grinding to Remove Rust</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 4 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2017/10/final-leveling-on-drill-press-base.html">Leveling Base Table</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 5 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2017/10/recreating-model-number-label-with.html">Recreating Model Number Label</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 6 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2017/12/finishing-base-craftsman-king-seeley.html">Refinishing Base</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 7 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/02/removing-motor-craftsman-king-seeley.html">Removing Motor</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 8 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/03/motor-disassembly-craftsman-king-seeley.html">Motor Disassembly</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 9 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/04/motor-bearing-replacement-craftsman.html">Motor Bearing Replacement</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 10 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/04/new-start-capacitor-and-motor.html">Start Capacitor and Motor Reassembly</a></b><br />
<b><br />
</b> <b>Part 11 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/05/removing-threaded-jacobs-chuck.html">Removing Threaded Jacobs Chuck</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 12 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/05/quill-and-spindle-removal-craftsman.html">Spindle Removal</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 13 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/05/quill-disassembly-craftsman-king-seeley.html">Quill Disassembly</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 14 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/07/new-quillspindle-bearings-and-quill.html">New Quill and Spindle Bearings</a></b><br />
<br />
<b>Part 15 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/07/engine-turned-aluminum-trim-proof-of.html">Engine Turned Aluminum Trim Proof of Concept</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 16 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/08/engine-turned-aluminum-trim-panel.html">Engine Turned Aluminum Trim</a></b><br />
<br />
<b>Part 17 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/09/cleaning-and-polishing-hardware.html">Cleaning and Polishing Hardware</a></b><br />
<b><br />
</b> <b>Part 18 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/09/renovating-vintage-jacobs-633c-drill.html">Jacobs 633C Drill Chuck Restoration</a></b><br />
<b><br />
</b> <b>Part 19 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/10/cleaning-and-polishing-column-craftsman.html">Cleaning and Polishing Column</a></b><br />
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<b>Part 20 - <a href="http://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/12/reassembly-begins-craftsman-king-seeley.html">Reassembly Begins</a></b><br />
<b><br />
</b> <b>Part 21 - <a href="https://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2019/01/restoration-completed-craftsman-king.html">Restoration Completed</a></b><br />
<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-396160690189969206.post-86305145331638506152018-11-30T12:05:00.000-05:002018-11-30T12:05:07.739-05:00Simple, Basic DIY WorkbenchThis project started with the fact that I'm going to attempt to build a guitar. Scary, I know.<br />
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My workspace, The Dungeon, has way too much clutter, clutter that is even all over the floor. I can hardly more without tripping over something. I can imagine ruining a fragile guitar top by tripping over, say, a machine press or an amplifier lying on the floor. And I can't really build instruments on my current benches - they are against the walls and can only be accessed from the front.<br />
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With that in mind, I set about building a simple but functional workbench that will serve as an assembly table which I can access from all sides. And it will have some room for storage on the bottom.<br />
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I studied a lot on the interwebs about DIY workbenches, and read some books to get ideas. It struck me that workbenches are personal - in the sense that if you're making one, it should serve <i>your</i> needs. It's fine to make one from a plan, but there may be shortcomings or features you don't need. I saw many incredible woodworking benches, many variations on the Roubo bench, etc. But I'm not building cabinets. I'm building instruments. I just need a solid table I can put guitars together on. So what I came up with is quite basic.<br />
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Did a lot of thinking, made some drawings, made some revisions and then went at it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4cOETGMO_fgJxTjS980g-mh3095PG0Y_lB6HllOUMKtcBZlARChuDeG7zEeh09gJYtn0FTm72q1tOCbYLscTYvdDN3oRPXaDKS3VqFTiGr6qwn5upSd5aD9SWIcnACiml7OnmbO99gCCc/s1600/workbench-diy-2x4-studs-plywood-birch.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4cOETGMO_fgJxTjS980g-mh3095PG0Y_lB6HllOUMKtcBZlARChuDeG7zEeh09gJYtn0FTm72q1tOCbYLscTYvdDN3oRPXaDKS3VqFTiGr6qwn5upSd5aD9SWIcnACiml7OnmbO99gCCc/s320/workbench-diy-2x4-studs-plywood-birch.png" width="320" /></a></div>
In this shot you can see what I mean about the jumble. Guitars, parts, cases, just stuff everywhere.<br />
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I procured some 2x6s, 2x4s and had some nice 3/4 inch birch ply cut to size at the dreaded Despot.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTraRkSAZ2qdLs-hklSCsNwNnZgDWmOrmdeHBVnm9Xh-CM-C_yZsQTP_xatT1GQzvxon3hWuC7-ZoLIzmQNcEqBP54FXAttWx_-xpHqFyreKBlo12KH2QPMCXYXfOVgCKAsfeliA92NrbR/s1600/workbench-top-diy-homebrew-birch-plywood-laminate.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTraRkSAZ2qdLs-hklSCsNwNnZgDWmOrmdeHBVnm9Xh-CM-C_yZsQTP_xatT1GQzvxon3hWuC7-ZoLIzmQNcEqBP54FXAttWx_-xpHqFyreKBlo12KH2QPMCXYXfOVgCKAsfeliA92NrbR/s320/workbench-top-diy-homebrew-birch-plywood-laminate.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's some of the birch ply. It will become a shelf and the tabletop.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQPk8fPq6ml96fbG8gnteWNZ6NyyiMYtOvDcnRhczHWN0d6QQov4h8ndPitE8pc_a_xMnZYWIi6629vkn09E4SEK7uyyjhn2wdFPHUJ7zzqd0ubp9L8o30Rmhb4uZazn9Cyt3t5ja5PgqA/s1600/cutting-workbench-diy-ryobi-miter-saw-wood-2x4.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQPk8fPq6ml96fbG8gnteWNZ6NyyiMYtOvDcnRhczHWN0d6QQov4h8ndPitE8pc_a_xMnZYWIi6629vkn09E4SEK7uyyjhn2wdFPHUJ7zzqd0ubp9L8o30Rmhb4uZazn9Cyt3t5ja5PgqA/s320/cutting-workbench-diy-ryobi-miter-saw-wood-2x4.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Cut the 2x6s to length with my cheap semi-trusty Ryobi miter saw. Works great for straight cuts, but not so good with actual miters.<br />
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I tried making 45 degree cuts one time only to find the saw scale is off by a degree or so. Wound up aligning it by hand to cut the miter, can't rely on the scale on the saw.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw-RbgnqyME0ESafyzPnGt38xNaiZ_Ft9ju_RBVj_lygRDObG00JNPshc7rx-td5fZRpUuo3A5LbrsyIR_8WkkqdiCfHSk-jzKoLTTuC4hBCXB3cKeeriPW0K4FE56Zvl_OTUY0XrKNic4/s1600/attaching-stud-frame-workbench-diy-screws.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw-RbgnqyME0ESafyzPnGt38xNaiZ_Ft9ju_RBVj_lygRDObG00JNPshc7rx-td5fZRpUuo3A5LbrsyIR_8WkkqdiCfHSk-jzKoLTTuC4hBCXB3cKeeriPW0K4FE56Zvl_OTUY0XrKNic4/s320/attaching-stud-frame-workbench-diy-screws.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I just used screws - #10 and #12 - for the assembly. In a nod to good construction practice, you can see I used a square.<br />
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The basic frame is just 2x4s. I did try to get reasonably straight ones at the Despot, and these are supposedly "premium."<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifapqyeAh7CM5V-2EDPCTpcyNI1T5dmy4ZUFMhSo4ASZwogomoG4mMstTn_exEXLiQSWQBCi-n4y6aw7K9IdrqWwrW7fx6KtGKIAePXW62cDBHe1SB5YEa8MrJNdyLX5jCAPJ4Wd_50YjX/s1600/diy-workbench-frame-legs-wood-studs.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifapqyeAh7CM5V-2EDPCTpcyNI1T5dmy4ZUFMhSo4ASZwogomoG4mMstTn_exEXLiQSWQBCi-n4y6aw7K9IdrqWwrW7fx6KtGKIAePXW62cDBHe1SB5YEa8MrJNdyLX5jCAPJ4Wd_50YjX/s320/diy-workbench-frame-legs-wood-studs.png" width="320" /></a></div>
The bottom frame along with the legs before I attached the legs.<br />
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Did I say this was going to be simple?<br />
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Note the legs are <i>exactly</i> the same length! My saw got something right for once.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRVoL4OhQSz0C_tSuQbVbGPckZ8HxgpMzr6cS8L2DGG8tE5dN4b641OLmoMAiiRdWEaQTM5tI-mK4sJf8PUD_5qjGaufktEHTAJMzbF96H2Yw21FA9pkRAv5D7S016HMhLp_PxJ7NAg2c3/s1600/attaching-workbench-legs-2x6-screws.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRVoL4OhQSz0C_tSuQbVbGPckZ8HxgpMzr6cS8L2DGG8tE5dN4b641OLmoMAiiRdWEaQTM5tI-mK4sJf8PUD_5qjGaufktEHTAJMzbF96H2Yw21FA9pkRAv5D7S016HMhLp_PxJ7NAg2c3/s320/attaching-workbench-legs-2x6-screws.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Attaching the legs. Just clamped the 2x6s to the 2x4s, then screwed them together. It seemed like a good idea to vary the fasteners on a slant. Who knows if it really matters in practice, but it looks neat.<br />
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I love countersunk holes. I drilled a pilot hole, then countersunk it, and then drove the screws in. I have 2 drills, so I didn't have to switch out bits a lot, which made this go faster.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbLnJgR0LGP50DK1-4ll6hD1YrGkHYqoxIF8cIHaPXqVinHxwyuBi5cwpBg4lD6oK8H2WG3l-rzLK7FkD_kpasE0hZBVF2m48TaQ6lX82LZO5OKRPmquCJF_F600KQ9QN9n2-wJdT5gI-U/s1600/basic-workbench-frame-studs-legs-diy.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbLnJgR0LGP50DK1-4ll6hD1YrGkHYqoxIF8cIHaPXqVinHxwyuBi5cwpBg4lD6oK8H2WG3l-rzLK7FkD_kpasE0hZBVF2m48TaQ6lX82LZO5OKRPmquCJF_F600KQ9QN9n2-wJdT5gI-U/s320/basic-workbench-frame-studs-legs-diy.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Now we're getting somewhere.<br />
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This is the basic frame. When I said simple, I meant it!<br />
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Even though my legs are even, I found that different spots in my floor are not level. Probably not surprising. In one spot, the frame was solid, but 2 inches from that, it wobbled. I'll just have to put a shim under one of the legs when it's done.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdVQz6JHEgzBLU_EsiD0EOsFc-6AfDbNy65Cy76W-FplSU1oVEZmxl3u1nj1eyAm6byYh0RygwFev63yDb6YIfESAa6pFIkLdXMrTlaPZFzE7hiSFfwoLRkSJcyGDXxY_rrzxyYnY8M7rv/s1600/workbench-table-braces-diy-homebrew.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdVQz6JHEgzBLU_EsiD0EOsFc-6AfDbNy65Cy76W-FplSU1oVEZmxl3u1nj1eyAm6byYh0RygwFev63yDb6YIfESAa6pFIkLdXMrTlaPZFzE7hiSFfwoLRkSJcyGDXxY_rrzxyYnY8M7rv/s320/workbench-table-braces-diy-homebrew.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Some more 2x4s go in as bracing and to support the bottom shelf.<br />
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Note that I have them sitting about 3/4 of an inch below the top surface of the side braces - the shelf will then sit perfectly flush with the sides this way.<br />
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I tacked in a couple of the braces, checked the height with the shelf, then assembled all of the braces. I wanted to make sure the shelf would sit level and not protrude above the sides.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8T0fvs1ytth8BKoHVxwgDUTzSwLzKNwNqmqmgTqjRxBEqvg7D3v7ROUN4w_Z6HzsOODogMJEZ6mvdwKTuM21rKg0OHfAqy9ekniCTAhQWd5wXI_T0DIrS2_6q2XayxdWosy0bSryLvlrs/s1600/diy-workbench-bottom-shelf-birch-ply.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8T0fvs1ytth8BKoHVxwgDUTzSwLzKNwNqmqmgTqjRxBEqvg7D3v7ROUN4w_Z6HzsOODogMJEZ6mvdwKTuM21rKg0OHfAqy9ekniCTAhQWd5wXI_T0DIrS2_6q2XayxdWosy0bSryLvlrs/s320/diy-workbench-bottom-shelf-birch-ply.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the shelf fitted in place. You can see how it sits flush. I didn't bother using any fasteners to hold it in place. It fits pretty snugly, so I figured, "why bother?" If it starts to warp, I'll screw it down to the braces.<br />
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Then I put in the top braces. They sit flush with the sides, since the top will overhang the whole thing.<br />
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Now for the top.<br />
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I had the Despots cut my top (and shelf) to size from two 3/4 inch birch ply 4/8 sheets. The top is 60 x 30, if you're curious. I am staying away from showing my plans or exact measurements, mainly because you should figure out what <i>you</i> need and size it to suit.<br />
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Then I used the excess from those cut sheets to make up a second layer to laminate to the top. Originally I thought I'd have them cut 2 full sized pieces, and glue them together, but I realized I'd have enough from the leftovers to make a bottom layer pieced together.<br />
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In the picture above, the full top is the bottom piece, and the top is one of the cutoffs. I just marked it and cut it (with a jigsaw!).<br />
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Spread glue on the bottom of the full-size top piece.<br />
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Then clamp down the pieces that will be the bottom on the final tabletop.<br />
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You can see I used almost every clamp I had around the edges, and used my drill press bottom (sigh...not done yet, but SOON) and my <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN/URM-25D_signal_generator" target="_blank">URM-25D</a> (yet another project in the wings) to weigh down the center.<br />
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Note the seam under the URM-25; that's the join from the 2 pieces of ply I used. The whole thing will be flipped over when it's dry and the top will be one clean sheet.<br />
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My cut with the jigsaw wasn't super accurate, so I have a couple of spots I need to even up. This is probably the worst area.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEQtyoPRvRIReKp9RMfemQB8EF_tXwqs8IWTXyaBNRvY6maKFqQEU82cDV0YN-Gu_HgBd0vdZI31z5X6H2tJq2SHo9jBNTMlVhPTIxd6zhYhIQErN18B3veO9zE72bCF8RL80A1DmjvmU1/s1600/ridgid-trim-router-laminate-workbench-table-top-edge-cutting-smooth.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEQtyoPRvRIReKp9RMfemQB8EF_tXwqs8IWTXyaBNRvY6maKFqQEU82cDV0YN-Gu_HgBd0vdZI31z5X6H2tJq2SHo9jBNTMlVhPTIxd6zhYhIQErN18B3veO9zE72bCF8RL80A1DmjvmU1/s320/ridgid-trim-router-laminate-workbench-table-top-edge-cutting-smooth.png" width="320" /></a></div>
I ran around the edges with my trusty Ridgid trim router to even the top's edge.<br />
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I took this shot to show the cloud of laminate dust that went everywhere!<br />
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I wanted to avoid having any screw holes on the top. In doing some research on the Interwebs, I read about using dowels to locate the top and keep it in place.<br />
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Drilled some 3/4 inch holes in one corner of each leg with a forstner bit. I love those things! And I have<br />
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Procured some 3/4 inch oak dowel stock and cut it into four 3 inch lengths. I could have used more generic dowels, but these are much stiffer so I splurged and spent $2 more for oak.<br />
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This is a test fit, it's not driven all the way in. The mark on the dowel is at 1/2 inch- the depth of the hole I'll make on the underside of the top.<br />
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Originally, I figured I'd glue the dowels in, but the fit was so tight I didn't bother.<br />
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With all of the dowels (pins?) in place and raised up a bit, I got the tabletop lined up <i>exactly</i> where I wanted it. (There's a bit of overhang on the ends and sides and I measured it to make it even).<br />
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Then I marked where each dowel lined up.<br />
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Now you see where this is going.<br />
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Drill a 1/2 inch deep hole in the tabletop and you're there.<br />
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This shows the two respective holes in the frame and the top, and the mating dowel.<br />
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Someone on Lumberjocks, I believe, mentioned chamfering the edges of the dowel to help it fit. Probably not necessary, but I hacked each dowel with a file to take that sharp corner off.<br />
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Glad nobody will see that, it looks awful.<br />
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Then line the top up, and whack it down on the dowels with a mallet.<br />
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The mounting works great!<br />
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The top is heavy enough to stay in place, and the dowels prevent it from shifting. And it can be easily lifted off if needed.<br />
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In a final nod to semi-craftsmanship, I traced a 2 inch diameter semicircle on each corner of the top.<br />
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Cut the corner off with a hacksaw, then used my fabulous Japanese rasp to round it off.<br />
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You can see the top is already chipping a bit, and that ply doesn't look great from the side, so I'm going to put some edge banding on it soon.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl7DTUgSe4Sw7oCuHrdNalI7TpT4C4B8osV1osdiBDwK6SwvneO7H8UCE52RzYzNXsPC8noq8kgcHSuP9ebsvLWf5szB8DfV_QipcfLgDX4ZC00vZkMnCvAbUZFT6f793rxFgfE475YTZl/s1600/simple-basic-easy-diy-workbench-plywood-studs.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl7DTUgSe4Sw7oCuHrdNalI7TpT4C4B8osV1osdiBDwK6SwvneO7H8UCE52RzYzNXsPC8noq8kgcHSuP9ebsvLWf5szB8DfV_QipcfLgDX4ZC00vZkMnCvAbUZFT6f793rxFgfE475YTZl/s320/simple-basic-easy-diy-workbench-plywood-studs.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the final table. Simple but effective.<br />
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I already am storing stuff on the bottom! That little tool chest has been on the floor for years. Now it has a home.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW1FhhVDKkmc2iq5sbToj4stO1ypAlIigV8ZsytNPg-9h-sR_q3qEmiQp4K9JGLXW5qIR6MK3_BdfjbRHR0ZeIE4QUVnJuZa3kuyFEgqe8tT7TcgONet2jXYzTt2DxWqnRB_dpWTji2rsH/s1600/basic-diy-workbench-shelf-plywood-2x4.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW1FhhVDKkmc2iq5sbToj4stO1ypAlIigV8ZsytNPg-9h-sR_q3qEmiQp4K9JGLXW5qIR6MK3_BdfjbRHR0ZeIE4QUVnJuZa3kuyFEgqe8tT7TcgONet2jXYzTt2DxWqnRB_dpWTji2rsH/s320/basic-diy-workbench-shelf-plywood-2x4.png" width="320" /></a></div>
Another angle. Perfect place for that gallon of wood glue.<br />
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I eventually want to build a cabinet with drawers or shelves to hold more stuff, but this was a good start.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRMSTDfSlOh_zVAgy3y98Aw23JWd_YxWmZY_ZKi17N36dyVPrFJeU7fMBb_kzWfn3g74avgvTiIHM1oTKs0J45RyDLN2fXAgi0AbBHEGyQQfxDfDkwBSlQI2s8b_L8Jf6nbWMvMqHZZUWG/s1600/simple-homebrew-diy-workbench-table-laminate-birch-top.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="700" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRMSTDfSlOh_zVAgy3y98Aw23JWd_YxWmZY_ZKi17N36dyVPrFJeU7fMBb_kzWfn3g74avgvTiIHM1oTKs0J45RyDLN2fXAgi0AbBHEGyQQfxDfDkwBSlQI2s8b_L8Jf6nbWMvMqHZZUWG/s320/simple-homebrew-diy-workbench-table-laminate-birch-top.png" width="320" /></a></div>
From the other end.<br />
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You see how I can get to anything on the top from any side. That was a major plus - my other workbenches are against walls and only accessible from the front.<br />
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In addition to a cabinet on the bottom, I'm going to take a shot at putting a thin-ish maple top on it too. The ply is already getting dented just from installing it, so I want a layer of solid hardwood. Stay tuned for that.<br />
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<br />Yr Fthfl Blggrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01219471569230180465noreply@blogger.com0