Crawls Backward (When Alarmed)

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Motor Disassembly: Craftsman King-Seeley 103.23141 Drill Press Restoration, Pt. 8

Now we'll take the motor apart and pull the bearings. I had noted some bearing noise when I tested the motor, and I've decided just to replace all of the bearings - motor and drill press - since I'm taking everything apart.

First we remove the drive belt pulley.

I read a couple of threads on the interwebs about drill press restoration, and they mentioned having to use a puller to get the pulley off, so I was dreading this.

No worries at all. Just undid the Allen screw and poof.

Off it came.

I'll be cleaning everything up and polishing as needed on reassembly.

There are access plates/covers on each end of the motor. This enables one to get to the bearings to relubricate them.

I took the plates off mainly to be out of the way for disassembly of the motor case.

I'm keeping the parts in the order they'll go back on - there's an end float spring, a couple of seals, and the plate cover.

The other end of the motor, where the circuit breaker and starter switch is, comes apart the same way.

Note that I stacked the parts and labelled them so I can reassemble in the same order. The parts are stashed in a safe place - NOT the workbench!

Now we undo the acorn nuts that are on the ends of the long case bolts.

Lots of squirrels in my hood so I have to stash the nuts where they can't find them.

One down, three to go. You can see these are just long rods with threads at the end. Once the nut on one end is loosened, the rod slides out.

Some people who know me might say I am the loose nut.

The "Craftsman" nameplate is an aluminum band that goes around the center of the motor.

I marked the location of the plate with tape so it can be relocated in precisely the same place when it goes back together.

Note that dent - dagnabbit. I must have inadvertently done that when moving the motor around. I'm pretty sure I can get it out though.

Simple yet effective mounting for the nameplate. There are bent clips in the metal that hold the label in place. Just unclip them and the label comes off.

There you have the sleeve/nameplate removed.

Now we really get down to business.

There are seats cast into the end bell covers on the motor which the bearings ride in. On the pulley end, there is a lip on the outer edge of the seat, which means that the cover has to be removed to access the bearing. The way the bearing is mounted means it has to be pulled off the rotor shaft.

On the other, circuit breaker end, it's the opposite. The lip is on the inside edge of the seat. The bearing is driven out from the inside of the cover. This should become clearer in a minute.

The service material that came with this stuff is invaluable now. Here you can see where I studied the exploded diagram before I...exploded the whole thing.

On the pulley end of the motor, I used a gear puller to get the end bell off.

What we'll see in a minute is the end of the rotor shaft with the bearing still attached.

The bearing is in its seat tightly; the end bell can't be moved off without leverage.

The end bell is cast iron so it's highly unlikely it would be damaged by pulling it off like this.

The cover is removed and we can see the bearing pressed on the shaft. Note the end of the bearing is open - it would be accessible via the small end plate I removed before in order to regrease it.

And note also the motor fan, which is mounted on this end of the rotor.

The rotor is free to slide out of the motor housing at this point.

On the right, you see the still-attached bearing from the pulley end, while there is no bearing on the left side. That bearing is still in the circuit breaker end bell.

Here's the view looking down inside the winding housing looking toward the circuit breaker end of the motor.

The silver object is the motor start switch. You can just see the inner bearing race in this shot.

Undo the two screws holding the switch in place and gently move it out of the way.

Note the fiber insulator that was under the switch.

With a bit of maneuvering, the insulator can be removed. It's an odd shape, so it won't pull straight up, but it will come out.

And now we have access to the bearing. It needs to be driven out from this side.

I used a big socket - I think it was 24mm - on an extension to drive it out.

I read on the interwebs that if you're driving a bearing from (or into) an opening like this, you should only put pressure on the outside so as to not damage the inner race. And the reverse if it's on a shaft - pressure on the center.

In this instance, it's not so critical since the bearings won't be reused.

And here's the bearing.

None of this is that difficult, you do need the right tools and patience. AND of course, keep track of your steps for reassembly.

Finally, I use a puller to get the pulley end bearing off the rotor shaft. I think the bearing may get mangled.

Sure enough, the puller dented it. Again, not a big thing since it will be replaced.

Now I need to clean everything up, fit new bearings, put a new start capacitor on, and put it back together.


Removing the Motor: Craftsman King-Seeley 103.23141 Drill Press Restoration, Pt. 7

Back to the long-running drill press project.

Finally got a chance to remove the motor. I'm planning on replacing the bearings on the motor and on the quill, so I want to get them both apart, take the bearings out and then order new ones. I'm going to use this press, not just park it and let it collect dust.

I don't think I've posted a picture of the head during this project. Mainly because Toy Making Dad delivered it with the base and column as one unit and the head and the motor as another. All together the thing weighs over 200 lb, and while TMD is really a strong dude, he's not so strong that he can maneuver a vintage cast-iron drill press into the back of a Subaru station wagon solo.

Anyway, here's the head and motor assembly.

I did drag my bathroom scale down to The Dungeon to weight this part - about 70 lbs.

You can see how the motor mounts on the back on a sliding mount which adjusts the belt tension.

I'm reasonably sure that Sears sold these with a choice of motors; mine is a 1/2 hp one made by Packard Electric* and labelled "Sears Craftsman."

There are two bolts holding the motor mount onto the main body of the head. Just loosen them far enough so the mount will slide easily.

Note my Husky open end/ratcheting combination wrench. Husky, of course, is the house brand for The Despot. In years past I would have bought a US-made Craftsman wrench, but it's harder to find them (now only being sold at certain Ace Hardware stores and not mine), so Husky it is. Not as nice as Craftsman, but it does have a lifetime warranty and it's not awful

And I can't afford Snap-On for the most part.

With the mount bracket loosened, the drive belt comes right off. This obviously is how you'd adjust it or change pulleys to vary the speed.

You can see inside the head - not awful. There is surface dirt - sawdust - and some small rust spots, but it should clean up nicely.

And the motor, along with its mounting bracket, slides right out.

I decided to bite the bullet and see if the motor worked before I opened it up.

And yes, it fired right up. You can see the pulley spinning. It had a little bearing noise, but ran smoothly. Should be real nice after putting new bearings in.

Now I know that if it doesn't work after servicing it, it's my fault!

Four bolts hold the motor to the bottom half of the mount/bracket. The motor half is held on by two more bolts as we'll see in a minute.

That isn't rust, by the way, it's ancient caked-on sawdust.

Three of the bolts came right off, but one gave me a hard time and needed two wrenches to remove it.

With the mount off, we can see the motor start capacitor. I'm going to replace this with a new one.

More sawdust!

There's a thin steel plate that holds the capacitor down.

The capacitor itself is housed in a thin cardboard box. I took this shot just to show some of the wiring.

Unfortunately, modern start caps are cylindrical, so I need to come up with a different way to mount the new cap when I put it in. Stay tuned.

Here's the actual capacitor. You can see the value and also the date code. As far as I can decipher the code, the manufacturer was a company called "Electrical Windings," and the cap was made in 1953.

Electrical Windings made transformers, and other parts, and is out of business as far as I can tell.

Before I get much farther, I made a drawing of the wiring and connections to aid in reassembly.

The on/off switch is mounted to the motor half of the bracket and held on by two screws.

After removing the switch from the bracket, I can undo the wiring connections to the switch.

I don't know why, but I love these old-style brass screws holding these connectors on. A real throwback, but they're an extremely reliable and well-designed connector.

Now I desolder the connections to the capacitor.

If you've read some of my other posts, you know I prefer solder wick for this job.

I hate to toss the old cap, but it's going to be useless except as a display item, and I'm the only person who would appreciate it!

With some of the wiring disconnected, I can remove the remaining half of the mount.

I mentioned my Craftsman tools earlier - I've owned this particular ratchet since about 1985. (Note the finish wear on the reversing knob).

Used it on innumerable jobs, and it keeps on going. Really a great, quality tool.

Then I labelled the wiring so I could keep it straight. Note I also put those two mounting bolts back on the motor so as not to lose them!

Next time I'll open up the case and pull the bearings.

*Note on Packard Electric: by coincidence, I'm currently reading the definitive Packard history, "Packard: A History of the Motor Car and the Company" right now. The Packard brothers started in the hardware business in their hometown of Warren, Ohio, in the 1880s. Their business interests expanded into electical lighting and supplies soon after in 1890; the auto manufacturing part of the company was started in 1899. Packard Electric was split from the soon-to-be-famous auto company in 1905. Packard Electric was bought by General Motors in 1932 and became part of Delphi Automotive Systems (another GM company) in 1995. It survives today as part of Delphi, which itself split from GM in 1999.


DIY Fret Tang Nipper Jig/Tool

I have a guitar to be refretted waiting in the wings. It has binding on the fingerboard, which looks great, but presents a problem for refretting.

On a guitar with no binding on the neck, the frets can run the full width of the fingerboard. However, on a guitar with binding, the tang (the vertical section with barbs which is pressed into the fingerboard) has to be cut short so as to not interfere with the binding, while the crown of the fret is not cut so that it overlaps the binding.

You can see this on the picture above. The fret crowns lie over the binding. The tang is cut short to clear the binding. It's a great look, but it takes a little finesse to accomplish it.

Stew-Mac and LMI sell tools to trim/cut the fret tang. The Stew-Mac tool appears to be a variation on metal nippers. I went to buy one, but it was out of stock. The LMI tool probably works well, but it appears to be complicated to set up and use. Plus it's really pricey.

One suggestion I've read is to modify a snipping tool to suit cutting the tang. I have a small metal snipping tool, and I tried modifying it with a slot to hold the fret, but it's just not sharp enough to make a clean cut on fretwire. It just bent it.

So after that, I did a search on the Interwebs and found a video from Highline Guitars on a DIY tang nipper. What an ingenious, clever approach! So I went about making my own.

In the spirit of log-to-jig, I grabbed a hunk of sycamore left over from the TMD log-cutting day from a while back. (That link goes to a TMD's page showing what he did with that wood. Prettier than mine and more fun to play with).

Laid out the marks for the 3 pieces.

Here are the three pieces that will make up the jig. The top piece is the largest, it's 1 inch wide by 3 inches long and 1/2 an inch deep.

The bottom is also 1 inch wide and 1/2 inch deep, but it's about 2 3/4 inches long.

And the block is 1 inch square.

I actually drew up plan drawings to work from, but they're too embarrassing to show here.

The idea is that the jig/tool will hold a Dremel tool vertically, clamped into a hole in the bottom piece.

The bit of the Dremel will come up through a hole in the top piece, and the bit will be flush with the top surface.

Then the fret is fed into the bit, cutting off just the tang.

Above you can see that I drilled a 1/2 inch hole in the top piece where the bit will come up.
Then I used a 3/4 inch Forstner bit to make a hole in the bottom. This hole will hold the Dremel in place.

In order to be able to tighten the bottom hole around the Dremel, we cut a slot from the hole to the edge of the piece. Then we drill a small hole through the piece.

This hole is for a screw to tension the piece around the Dremel. It will make more sense momentarily.

This hole needs to be accurate, so I used the drill press rather than a handheld drill.

Here's the bottom piece with the screw run through it. The screw is a 4-40 x 1 1/2 inches.

The Dremel's 'neck,' with the plastic collar removed, will go into the hole. Then the screw will enable the piece to be tightened around the Dremel.

You can see I have a wing nut on the screw to make for easy adjustment.

Then I glued the three pieces together.

Note that I also radiused (about 12") the top piece at the end. The idea is that it will help the fretwire follow the slot we'll create for feeding the fret into the Dremel bit.

Turns out the slot I cut wasn't wide enough. The hole wouldn't squeeze down enough to firmly hold the Dremel.

So I...used my Dremel to widen the slot.

Note that I've removed the collar on the Dremel. See the threads there? That's the part that fits into the hole.

Now we cut a fret slot on the top piece from the edge to the hole.

Here's the jig assembled.

It was suggested in the video to run some screws into the block to help hold the top and bottom pieces together.

It was plenty strong enough with the wood glue, but I ran the screws in anyway. It gave me a chance to countersink them. I love countersinks!

I also put about 6 coats of Tru-Oil on it to protect it and make the nice grain pop a bit.

Time for a test run.

I procured a tungsten carbide bit for the Dremel. Your local big box hardware store probably won't have this...I got mine online.

Here it is set up.

I just stuck the Dremel in a vise for safety. You can see how the bottom fits around the Dremel tool.

Nice grain, huh?

The key part of this process is to ensure the top of the bit is flush with the top of the jig. If it's too low, it will not cut all of the tang.

Conversely, if it's too high, it will cut into the fret crown.

I just used a straightedge to set it up.

I realize I've been referring to the fret tang and you may not know what I mean.

The pencil is pointing to the tang - the barbed part of the fretwire that is hammered or pressed or glued (sometimes all three...) into a fret slot.

Here we go. I held the fret down into the slot and fed it slowly into the rotating bit.

Wow! It works great! The bit cuts the fret tang very easily.

It does have a tendency to want to yank the fret sideways. I think if I did a second version, I'd make that hole for the bit smaller. It might make it easier to align the fret with the bit.

But as it is, it works like a champ.

The other thing I would change is the bottom piece. I'm not sure why the original design made it shorter than the top - maybe just for access? But my screw is very close to the end of piece, and as a result, it's starting to crack with the stress. For now, if it gets me through one guitar, I'll be happy.

I can make version 2 later. I have one other kooky idea to try.

Here's the trimmed tang.

Is that perfect or what? I think the cut won't need to be so long in practice; obviously this was a test.

But you can see how the fret will fit in the slot. The tang will butt (ha ha I said 'butt') up against the binding, and the crown will lay over the binding.

A few swipes with a file to take off that rough edge and it will be perfect.

I'm really tickled this turned out so well. Thanks, Highline Guitars for the inspiration!

Oh, check out the countersunk screws!