I had the neck in the bathroom on top of a cabinet for a couple of months in the hope it would get humidified and the crack would close up. It didn't. I think after a certain period of time, the wood has pretty much settled in terms of moisture content. Or not.
Anyway, I need to remove the frets so I can repair the crack. So out comes my trusty Weller 8200 soldering gun. I use it for bigger soldering jobs such as grounds to pots or chassis, and it's also great for quick heating frets.
Don't try it on circuit boards. Just saying.
Heat for a few seconds and then pop the frets out with a fret puller. Most all of them came out very easily.
Couple of things. At first, I wasn't going to remove all of the frets. Then I figured I'd have to sand the whole board anyway, so I took them all out.
Which brings me to point two. I could just refret the thing, but I'm going to reinstall the old frets. They're in good shape and with a level and crown they should be good to go. One's missing, but I have some matching fret wire for that one.
So I marked the frets on the bass side so I could reorient them the same way.
And I stuck them in a Temporary Fret Holder™ so I wouldn't mix them up.
The Complete Martin Guitar Restoration Saga
Restoration begins
Repairing heel break
DIY chisel for bridge plate removal
DIY bridge plate removal iron, Pt.1
DIY bridge plate removal iron, Pt.2
Steam removal of bridge plate
Bridge plate removed
Tongue brace removal
Crack repair and brace scallop
New bridge plate Pt. 1
New bridge plate Pt. 2
Patching hole in top
Final fitting of top patch
Installing carbon fiber rod
Fret removal (This page)
Fingerboard crack repair, Pt. 1
Fingerboard crack repair, Pt. 2
DIY fret bender tool
Refretting Pt. 1
Refretting Pt. 2
Tuner shaft repair
Neck reset - dovetail fitting
Measuring neck set with DIY jig
Gluing the neck with hide glue
Tortoloid Pickguard
Fitting bridge pins
Brace reglue
Making bone saddle
Making a buffalo horn nut
Restoration completed
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