I mentioned before that the flares that came with my port 'kit' (two flares and an hunk of plastic pipe...) are too big for me to use on these speakers. So the whole flare thing starts bugging me...and I get a bright idea. I will make my own flare on the outside!
So, to do this, I need a router. If you have read some of my other posts you have heard me talk about my need for a router. NO MORE! I bought a 1 hp 'palm' router! Dig it! This is truly a life-changing experience.
So armed with my new router (and after some practice cuts on scrap), I do a 1/2" roundover on the outside end of my ports. Came out ok I think.
Originally I thought I might just finish the speakers as-is with Danish Oil or similar. But the cut, laminated sides are just Too Darn Ugly. So, I got a 2x8 sheet of veneer and decide to veneer them. I got a maple veneer; probably shoulda gone with cherry, but there you have it.
I have never done this before, and am totally making this up as I go along.
I rolled some of the veneer sheet out and used the speaker itself (imagine that) as a template.
The veneer is thin enough to easily cut with a utility knife. I don't trust myself to cut a straight line, so I just used a straightedge.
It goes pretty well. The veneer instructions say to leave a half-inch extra - this turns out to be a bit much.
Whatever...we press on regardless.
I arm myself with the DIY tools of the veneering trade...contact cement (odorless), a paint roller, a paint trim tray, and waxed paper.
I'm ready to go.
But first, I must digress. When did waxed paper officially become "wax paper?" This bugs me. It's paper that is waxed, not paper made of wax! Geez! The fact that Reynolds calls it "wax paper" on the box makes the misuse of the term official.
Next we'll see restaurants advertise "ice tea" on their menus...
Now, ve poot ze zement on ze speakers, ja?
I just go for two opposing panels at once - starting with the sides. This way I can sit the speaker on the dry sides and not make a mess on the workbench.
The cement has to dry for 30 minutes...it's applied to both of the mating surfaces.
When it's ready, I spread some waxed paper on the panel.
Then I lay the cut veneer panel over that. The idea here is that you can position the panel exactly without it sticking. Once it sticks...it sticks. Ain't no moving it around.
I align the panel, and then carefully pull the waxed paper out from between the speaker and the veneer.
This is going too well...I must be doing something wrong.
Then I use a clean roller to smooth the veneer down to the wood.
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