You may recall the removal of the spindle from the quill in the last go-round. The top bearing just slid right off the shaft, but the bottom bearing will need to be pressed off.
I marked the location of the bearing with some blue masking tape as an aid to locating the new bearing, but as it transpires, I didn't need to worry about it.
You could drive the bearing off the spindle with a 3/4 inch PVC pipe, but I'm going to use my Palmgren 1/2 ton press. I bought it to fret Fender guitar necks, but I keep finding other uses for it.
Put the spindle in the press...this is about halfway off the shaft.
And there it is. Always helps to have the proper tool for the job.
Now we'll put the new bearings on and reassemble the quill.
I cleaned up the quill and the spindle. There was old dried up grease in the teeth on the quill. I used PB Blaster degreaser and #0000 steel wool to clean them up.
When I put the quill back into the drill press, I'll lubricate it with modern synthetic grease.
I mentioned taking off the lower spindle bearing with a 3/4 PVC pipe used as a drift. This is the reverse, tapping the new bottom bearing onto the shaft. The spindle is too long to use the press.
I did use freeze spray on the spindle so it would contract and hopefully make pressing the bearing on easier. Not sure if it was necessary, but the bearing drove on easily with a couple hammer taps on the PVC drift.
Remember - the pressure goes on the bearing race closest to the shaft or hole it goes on or into. In this case, pressure goes on the inside of the bearing. Putting pressure on the outside might damage the bearing.
A couple light taps seats the upper bearing. Using the rubber mallet distributes the force across the bearing, and in any event, it doesn't take much pressure to get the bearing into the quill.
But if you needed a lot of force here and used a drift, you'd want to put the pressure on the outside edge of the bearing.
The spindle goes into the quill from the bottom. The bearing you see here is the one I put on with the press. The splined end of the shaft slides through the bearing on the other end.
Again, a couple of light taps on the shaft will seat the bearing.
Here's the quill mostly reassembled. Next we need to put the top and bottom collars on.
There is a rubber seal and a collar for the top bearing. I should have realized that the collars locate the quill on the spindle, so the bearings will line up exactly where they need to go - I didn't need to mark that bottom bearing.
Note I used a touch of anti-size on the screw threads on the top collar. Probably not critical, but I figure it will help the next person who takes this thing apart five decades from now.
There's a guide hole on the shaft that the screw seats into.
And finally the bottom collar which the chuck screws on to.
You may recall my adventure removing the dowel pin that holds the collar onto the spindle shaft.
In drilling the old pin out, I made the outside hole a bit deformed. However, the inside hole on the collar and through-hole on the spindle are fine.
I procured a bag of 20 stainless steel dowel pins from McMaster-Carr. I only need one, so I have enough left to restore 19 more of these things!
I figured I'd need to drive the pin in, but it just slipped in with hand pressure. But it won't come out at all. So this is good.
There is a tiny bit of radial play on the shaft, but the same amount of play was on the shaft originally, so I'm in good shape. When the spindle is turning, that play won't matter at all. Whew.
For comparison's sake, here's the quill and spindle after I originally removed them from the press. Note that old lubricant on the quill and the spindle splines.
And here's our newly rebuilt quill assembly ready to be lubricated and reinstalled into the press. The spindle turns very easily; I'm looking forward to getting press back together and turning it on.
The complete restoration saga
Part 1 - BeginningPart 2 - Electrolysis to Remove Rust
Part 3 - Grinding to Remove Rust
Part 4 - Leveling Base Table
Part 5 - Recreating Model Number Label
Part 6 - Refinishing Base
Part 7 - Removing Motor
Part 8 - Motor Disassembly
Part 9 - Motor Bearing Replacement
Part 10 - Start Capacitor and Motor Reassembly
Part 11 - Removing Threaded Jacobs Chuck
Part 12 - Spindle Removal
Part 13 - Quill Disassembly
Part 14 - New Quill and Spindle Bearings
Part 15 - Engine Turned Aluminum Trim Proof of Concept
Part 16 - Engine Turned Aluminum Trim
Part 17 - Cleaning and Polishing Hardware
Part 18 - Jacobs 633C Drill Chuck Restoration
Part 19 - Cleaning and Polishing Column
Part 20 - Reassembly Begins
Part 21 - Restoration Completed
I could find you an old Royersford Excelsior drill press if you need another project.
ReplyDeleteTempting. But I only have room for one.
ReplyDeleteWhat lube do you recommend for all parts of the restoration?
ReplyDeleteI used Mobil 1 (synthetic) wheel bearing grease for the quill. And "Super Lube" - light synthetic grease for other parts. And some spray silicon lube to get the head back on the column. It's all here:
Deletehttp://crawlsbackward.blogspot.com/2018/12/reassembly-begins-craftsman-king-seeley.html
Yr Fthfl Blogger: Don't know where I'd be if I hadn't run across your excellent tutorial on rebuilding the head of my old Craftsman floor model drill press. I am very impressed with the detail you go to in explaining the steps and the lessons learned - very, very helpful to me. One item I either overlooked, or you omitted, is the specs for the spindle bearings involved. I can probably determine such after I complete the disassembly, but would feel more comfortable hearing it from the expert, and thus be able to get them ordered so they'd be here when I get to finish this project. Thanks for making my life a lot easier! If possible pls contact me at PGL5@Comcast.net
ReplyDeleteNice work. Like Unknown above, I'm curious about the bearings you used for the spindle. I ordered what I thought would be a good replacement (Timken 6202-2RS) but the tolerance is way too tight (about .8mm smaller than the old bearings). I'm also cheating a little. I didn't take the collar off the shaft. I was hoping to just replace the bearing by pushing it the entire way. At least that's how the old bearing came off and did so without much effort. Thanks for all your efforts.
ReplyDelete