That was easy, yes?
Now, you may recall from Part 1 that the purpose of all of this work is to replace the bushing that fits between this bearing and the steering column.
I expected to find a broken or worn bushing at this point. Instead I found...nothing. No bushing at all!
It's not like there's anywhere for it to go. Could it have just disintegrated? This is strange.
You can see it lying just above the bearing assembly here.
This missing bushing is the cause of my steering play.
I improvised a drift from a piece of PVC pipe. It works perfectly. A few whacks on the drift, and the lock ring is seated.
I think it's unlikely that the bearing would come out of its seat, given the way it fits down into that plate. The ring is really insurance to ensure it won't move at all.
This is a simple device- the top half of the connector turns with the steering wheel. The ribbon connects the horn and airbag wiring from the dash to the steering wheel. So as the wheel is turned, the ribbon 'spring' tightens or loosens on the reel and maintains contact throughout. Clever.
Recall that the black and yellow connectors are for the instrument panel side. The wires at the top will go through the steering wheel and connect to the horn buttons and the airbag.
The factory had put a wire tie around this wiring to hold it in place, so I did the same.
More proof that actual humans, rather than robots, built this car. Whoopee!
At this point you'll need to cut or remove the tape.
Slide the wheel back on to the shaft. It's splined, so it may take a bit of wiggling to get it on, but it will slide right on. The pin in the bottom of the contact will align with the mating hole in the steering wheel.
Side note: you can see the locating pin just below the shaft in this view.
Now my steering has no play in it! In addition to peace of mind, I've found that I seem to have better feel, and the steering wheel doesn't 'jolt' like it used to over bad pavement.