You may recall a couple weeks ago I got the oil pressure gauge connected, and now it's time to get the water temperature gauge going. I've planned it out in my head and now I get to actually do it.
I bought a new heater hose and the Autometer heater hose adaptor.
I could have used my old hose, but I figured if I goofed up the installation, I could just reinstall the old hose if needed.
You can see the new hose above, along with the adaptor. You could also replace your factory sensor with the one for an Autometer gauge, but the sensor on a c900 is at the front of the block near the thermostat housing, and the cable (actually it's a capillary tube) for the sensor is sealed - it contains a liquid - and it won't reach that far. Hence Plan B, hack into a water hose.
You will note that the hose is a bit curved and the adaptor is straight. I have a plan which I believe will allow this to work.
Then I just cut the hose with a razor saw.
Best $12 I ever spent.
Hopefully the hose will expand due to the heat and will slip over the adaptor ends easier.
At this point it looks like a sausage. Or more accurately, it sort of resembles the famous Swedish sausage called värmlandskorv. Värmlandskorv is a wonderful sausage made of beef, pork and potatoes.
Maybe we should refer to this sausage as "Värmareslangkorv,"which would mean in English, if the Bing Translator is correct, "heater hose sausage."
I bet it would be pretty rubbery if you tried to eat it.
Now to see if this assembly will actually fit in the car.
The factory hose is directly to the right.
This has been too easy so far. I expected this to be fraught with problems, I don't know why.
Side story: many years ago I was helping someone take an oil cooler out of an early 70s MGB parts car (to put in my 1967 MGB). He cut the heater hose for some reason and when the (old, dirty green) coolant came out he said, "hey, it's bleeding British Racing Green!"
Guess you had to be there.
It may not look like it lines up, but I trimmed a bit off the end nearest the camera, and it worked great.
The "T" joint the hose connects to at this end has enough flex in it due to the other hoses connected there on the other sides that I have plenty of room to maneuver the hose and the fitting to get them to mate.
Note I put the clamps back on and put clamps onto the hose where it meets the adaptor. Snugged them up and all looks good at this point.
This whole line is sealed - it's sealed at this end where the sensor is, and it's also sealed at the gauge end. It's actually a capillary tube that contains a temperature-sensitive liquid that controls the movement of the gauge needle with changes in temperature.
Now that I see this picture, I realize I could have turned the adaptor to the right and run the capillary tube under that A/C hose. I can always change that later. On second thought, those fitting nuts might be hard to access. Hmmmm.
Incidentally, the engine was running in this shot - note there are no leaks. Yes!
With the engine getting up to normal temp, still no leaks, and now we have a calibrated water temp gauge!
And to think I envisioned coolant everywhere. This went very easily indeed.
The factory water temp gauge is still connected, so I now have 2 working gauges - I guess redundancy is a good thing. The factory gauge is uncalibrated - it just reads "L" to "H," so it's nice to know the exact coolant temperature.