I'm waiting on some bits for the banjo mandolin, so I needed to find some other project to work on. I have a short list of stuff left to do on the SAABmarine, so I worked on a couple of things.
One of them is actually connecting the senders/sensors for the oil pressure and water temperature gauges. You may recall that a while back, I put the gauges in the dash, and ran the tubing for the gauges, but didn't connect them.
I'm going to connect the oil pressure gauge first, since it will be a bit less daring than the water temp.
You can also see the sender has a big hex on it - which is what we'll need to undo.
Digression here: for those of you who own (or have owned) English cars with wire wheels: you know about 'undo' - it's on the wheel nut with an arrow indicating which way to remove the nut.
Do Ferraris with Borrani wheels have a similar instruction? I have no idea. I have never had a tool in my hand within striking distance (ha ha, striking) of a Ferrari.
The perfect thing for the job.
Funny how that wide angle setting on the camera lens makes close-up stuff look huge. That wrench looks like it's about 50cm long!
Or the car has suddenly shrunk.
Now, this is the factory sender for the oil warning light on the dash - the one that lights up when your oil pressure is like 5 lbs or below. Meaning: Stoppa motorn nu!
I am basically daring to run without a warning light. I actually have a bunch of adapters which will let me use the new gauge connectors AND the factory light, but right now, I'm just connecting the new gauge. Time will tell if I bother to reconnect the old warning light. I'm starting to think since I have a gauge I'll be ok.
Then the outer nut tightens up over it. The business end screws into the block.
This picture makes it look so easy, doesn't it? Let me tell you, this was a beast. I could only turn the nuts about a quarter of a turn before the wrench contacted the dipstick tube. Took a while to get them tightened up.
We don't need a lot of torque on these pieces - the little ferrule might get crushed. We have to treat the ferrule with caution, bless its little brass head.
Again, don't want to tighten it up too much.
And use sealant on the threads as well.
You can see there are no leaks. The hose has a fairly thick wall, so it's unlikely it will ever leak along its length, and there aren't any places where it makes a tight bend or contacts something sharp which might cut or abrade it.
Also, it's not hot at all - by the time it travels through the hose it cools down.
Generally speaking, main difference between this mechanical gauge and an electrical one is accuracy and reliability. An electrical gauge relies on a sensor which may not be accurate, lose its accuracy over time, or fail entirely.
With a mechanical gauge, we eliminate the sensor, and the gauge itself is reading the pressure directly.
The car was starting to warm up at this point. From cold, the pressure is about 60-62 psi. It drops to about 20 psi at hot idle.