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Removing NoJack Endpin and Beginning Neck Reset On Guild F50

The guitar had an undersaddle pickup on it at one point, but it has been removed, and a "NoJack" endpin installed in its place.

The NoJack is a Stew-Mac device that fits into the larger diameter endpin hole created to fit a standard output jack.  It's a clever device  and looks good - IF the original hole wasn't a hack job.

This one was obviously drilled with a 1/2 inch drill bit, rather than the proper way of doing it using a reamer.   It's also not on center.  So you might call this a hack job.

However, all is not lost.  I was planning to put a K&K pickup in it, so I'm taking out the Nojack and putting an output jack back in.

So I need to remove the NoJack.

This is the inside end of the NoJack.  It's a screw with an allen head fitting in it.  All we need to do is pop a hex wrench in there and unscrew it.

I can't reach all the way to the end block of the guitar with my hand.  So I stuck the hex wrench (4mm is whatcha need) into the end of some vise grips.

That gave me enough length to work with. 

It took a couple of tries, but I was able to get the wrench into the fitting fairly easily.

And here's the removed NoJack.

The screw fits into threads in the end of the endpin.  As it's tightened, the sleeve expands until the whole enchilada is held into place. 

Simple and clever.  And pretty easy to remove as well.

I'll put the pickup in soon.  It's more tedious, and I don't have the patience to work on it right now.

I do, however, have the energy to begin to cut the neck heel for the reset.

I need to remove about .050 of an inch from the bottom.  I used drafting tape to mark that distance on the bottom of the heel - and the slice tapers up to nothing at the joint where the heel meets the fingerboard at the top.

This neck is maple.  I love, love, love maple, but it's not as easy to carve as mahogany.  Rather than make a hack into the edges, I carved away from the inside surface toward the outer edges.  A 'relief' of sorts.  Think of the surface as being dished inward toward the male dovetail.  These cheeks don't have to contact the guitar body, so they can curve inward.

Then with a small chisel (4mm), I can carefully carve the edge of the heel away.  You can see how close I am to the edge of the tape marking the depth I need to get down to.

I did a test fit and I need to remove just a touch more material and the set should be perfect.  I'll probably use a file and sandpaper for that fine tuning rather than use a chisel and risk taking off too much material.

 
 
 
 

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