Now that we modded an Oktava MK-219, it's probably only fair that we take on its younger brother, the MK-319.
The 319 looks a lot different than the 219, but the circuit is the same. We'll look at that in the next post.
But first let's get the thing apart and do the body and headbasket damping mods.
The body is a lot heavier than the MK-219 - presumably to solve the known resonance issues with the older model.
First step is to remove the bottom threaded ring.
This is not rocket surgery. Although given the shape of the microphone, we can pretend we are working on Korabl-Sputnik 2, the Vostok spacecraft that carried the legendary Belka and Strelka into orbit.
Then we unscrew the PCB from the panel.
In the MK-219, the run is short, since the switch circuitry is on the board. But this is done differently.
I'm going to remove all of the wiring and the switches, since I won't use them and since they degrade the signal when they're used. I'll replace the wiring with shorter runs of better quality wire, as I did on the MK-219.
Those wire runs can't help things either. The extreme length adds a lot of capacitance, and in this case, capacitance is not our friend.
Before I work on the electronics, I decided to fabricate an aluminum panel to replace the switch panel, since the switches won't be used.
I'm just using thin sheet aluminum from the Despot.
I need a decal in Russian that says "No User Serviceable Parts Inside" to put on the panel.
I put a square piece of CLD tile on the inside of the panel to deaden it. That thin aluminum just rings otherwise.
So we take out the inner mesh to help damp the headbasket, and open it up to let more sound in.
There's also a circle I cut and put on the top mesh.
The basket now 'thunks' more than ring.
Next up: modding the electronics and replacing the Russian FET with a different one.