With the amplifier board and tone control board rebuilt, and the filter caps replaced, we can reassemble the Altec 1592B and test it.
First we resolder the tone control board - those 8 connections to the pins at the bottom of the board.
When I took the board out originally, I undid the screw that attaches to the board (green arrow). It has a lockwasher and nut under it. I realized after the fact that the way to attach or remove the strip is to undo the screw at the buss end (blue arrow). That end is just a screw, with no nut to attach from the underside.
I left it a bit loose, since it will have to be adjusted to line up with the buss.
I'm not sure why Altec didn't use connectors on the tone board also.
I fired it up and used a microphone to test all of the inputs...it works!
On these projects where you're removing several boards at once and replacing a number of components all at once, you don't have the luxury of replacing a few things and then testing, as you would on a point-to-point wired radio or amplifier.
However, if you're careful and methodical as you go, you'll usually have success. If the gear in question doesn't work after putting it back together, it's usually something not connected or not grounded.
The tone control knob screws take a flat blade, while the big knobs are allen screws.
I didn't have enough XLR plugs to hook it up through the back panel!
I left it on for a couple days to burn it in* and make sure nothing went up in smoke.
*Following that supposed 100 hour break-in for the Silmic caps.
Altec 1592B Rebuild Project
Part 1: Overview and Initial Dissassembly
Part 2: Power Amplifier/Main Board
Part 3: Tone Control Board
Part 4: Filter Capacitor Replacement
Part 5: Reassembly (This page)