In my search for a humbucker with more clarity than the usual humbucker, I came across the Lollar 'El Rayo.' It promises to be clearer and cleaner. In fact, the Lollar website says "Don't like humbuckers? Think again." So I sprung for one.
The pickup itself is impeccably made, like anything from Lollar. You may recall I have a tapped Lollar P-90 in my ES-225, and it is just fabulous.
The other pickup that's going in is a Cavalier 'Twin Lion' from Cavalier Pickups. Cavalier is a custom shop run by Rob DiStefano. The original pickup was one of Rob's stock ones, and I really liked it.
I liked it so much that I wanted to try another one - in this case a tapped Bakersfield/Fat Lion model. The Bakersfield tap is about 6.3k and the Fat Lion tap is about 9.6k, both measured on my Fluke DMM.
I had gotten El Rayo with 4-conductor wiring so I could wire it with a coil shunt switch. And of course, there are 2 taps on the Cavalier pickup.
I wired them both up with push-pull switches. The Lollar is on the neck and the Cavalier is on the bridge (duh). So now I have 2 push-pull switch pots on the guitar.
Tested the wiring, and it worked fine.
But then I ran into a slight obstacle.
For whatever reason, there is a raised 'block' in the middle of the control cavity. This raised area is fouling the volume control switch. Dagnabbit!
Now, every Tele I've ever worked on has had the old-style flat bottomed cavity.
Like the missing truss rod adjustment slot we saw in the last installment, this too has me scratching my head.
What to do?
Out comes a chisel and hammer.
I make like Lenny DaVinci carving a statue and have at it.
Only difference is that this isn't art!
Thwack, thwack, thwack.
Not quite as easy as the truss rod slot, but just as effective.
A big rubber mallet is such a good thing to have when working on guitars, don't you think?
You can see the bare wood where I removed that silly raised area in the cavity.
I sort of understand the truss rod access not being there. A lot of 'modern' Teles don't have a heel-adjust rod. Ok.
But this I don't understand. Wouldn't it be easier to rout the whole cavity flat like our hero Leo did in the first place?
Anyway.
We just glue a small piece of aluminum foil (the poor man's RF shielding material) over the bare wood and we're back in business.
I also consolidated a couple of ground leads so there are a couple less connectors at the star ground.
Now we move on to Final Assembly.
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