At the end of the last post, I mentioned having to drill an access hole for the adjustment nut on the end of the truss rod. Here I am doing just that.
The nut will pass though the dovetail into this hole. I'll drill a matching hole in the neck block in the guitar, that's how it will be accessed via the soundhole to adjust the neck.
The nut end is sticking up a bit, it easily pressed down when I put silicone on the rod for the final fitting.
The rod is just shy of the top of the neck surface. That last pass I did with the router probably wasn't needed, but it was hard to gauge the depth. The extra depth doesn't affect anything in any event.
My fit was very snug, but I agree this is a good idea.
That router bit is pretty much required if you want to get an exact fit into the slot. I suppose you could find another one that works, but that bit is machined exactly for this truss rod. Why mess around with something else?
You can see a minimal squeeze-out of silicone around the brass block. Exactly as per the instructions.
You can also see the tiny bit of threaded rod coming out of the end as I mentioned above, and how it has just enough clearance in the slot.
Pretty good for a first-time install I think.
Now to glue the fingerboard back on!
The instructions for the rod say to cover the rod with a piece of 3/4 inch wide masking tape and spread the glue on the neck "using a notched glue spreader."
Note to Toy Making Dad: ¡Económico! ¡La Espátula es muy barato!
See the tape over the truss rod. The idea is that the glue will spread evenly over the wood, and go just to the edge of the slot. The instructions say this is to keep glue from going onto the rod and preventing future removal.
Who's going to remove the rod in the future? I suppose if it breaks, but hopefully it won't.
This is the dovetail end - I used this to align the neck on that end. Worked out perfectly.
Those plastic things are fingerboard clamps. They work great! Whoever designed them is brilliant. I understand they break after a few uses, but who cares? Just get a bunch of them - they're cheap.
I used my 12 inch radius block on the heel end along with a bar clamp and a caul. Had a nice amount of squeeze-out, so I'm confident all will be fine. The board is perfectly aligned on the neck.
To be honest, I thought about using hide glue, but I was very concerned about the working time. I used Titebond and I needed a few minutes to get everything clamped down. It just wasn't worth trying to use hide glue here. I'll use it for regluing the neck after the reset.