It's going to be a couple of weeks until I get back to the Martin O-18T. I'll finish spraying it, and the lacquer needs to cure a bit before I can rub it out.
That doesn't mean there's any halt in projects in the Dungeon.
Here we have yet another tenor guitar. Crazy, huh?
This one is a 1927 Martin 5-17T. All mahogany (aka 'hog'), and small Size 5 body. It needs a neck reset.
I've written about neck sets before - so this is a very quick overview of the process. With a straightedge on the fretboard, we see where it falls when it hits the bridge. It should be just at the top of the bridge. Here, it's clearly not. It's about 1/8 of an inch below. Armed with that measurement, we can calculate the amount of material that needs to be removed from the base of the neck heel to correct the neck angle, and therefore the set of the neck.
All Martins made before 1934 or so used bar frets. Unlike modern "T" shaped frets, these were cut from rectangular bar stock. Removing the fret is just like a modern fret - some heat with a soldering gun, and a gentle back-and-forth with nippers to lift the fret out.
It came out perfectly with no chips! This is going too well.
I heated the fingerboard extension and used my trusty removal knife to loosen it.
These old Martins were made with hide glue - and this disassembles like a dream. If only my Guild F-50 had been this easy.
Next, I'll put the guitar in my neck removal jig, run some steam down into joint and get it apart.
I put the guitar into the jig, and applied a little pressure on the heel. Pop! The neck came right out.
Turns out the craftsman used glue very sparingly on the guitar. It's now brittle, so it came right apart without steaming! The joint fits nice and tight. Super workmanship.
I was so happy that I just dashed though the chisel-and-filing part of the work on the neck heel and didn't get any pictures. The dovetail is like a smaller version of a standard Martin joint - but a bit more delicate and almost dainty.
Thermapen for cooking.
You can see the results. At 145 degrees F (where we want the glue to be), the Pyrex reads about 160! So all of my past jobs have used glue at a lower temperature than it should be. But now I have a reference on the Pyrex so I can just use 160 instead.
No wonder all the steaks I cooked using the Pyrex were more done than I wanted. Hmmm.