The ebony sawdust fill has dried. Now I can scrape the fill to get it nearly level to the fingerboard.
I put some Scotch tape on the ends of a single-edge razor blade, leaving a small amount of the blade exposed in the center. The tape is just a couple of thousandths of an inch (or a millimeter...) thick. So the fill will be level, but a tiny bit higher than the fingerboard. That's why I said "nearly" level. If it's a little proud of the board, it's easy to sand down to make it perfectly smooth and level.
I used 600, then 800 and 1000 grit paper (dry) for this.
The fingerboard has a radius, so I used a small hunk of cork as a sanding block. The cork follows the shape of the board pretty well.
They look pretty good. There are one or two spots with tiny cracks in them - I may or may not go back with some filler again.
This I will ponder. Overall, it's a great improvement over the divots that were there before.
I hate divots in fingerboards.
I reglued the binding back on.
Maybe the acetone will help to melt the pieces together. Or not. It's just a shot in the dark. If I still have a crack/seam there after it all dries, I'll try to fill it.
I was reading on the Interwebs about this classic book on sharpening. I wound up buying it and just got it yesterday.
It looks pretty amazing. Not only how to sharpen the tools I use (chisels, scrapers, planes) but also knives and saws! Should be a great reference.