
I used the setting a notch or so below the hottest heat level. This is the basic technique. Although, I did tape around the bridge after this picture was taken. The heat from the iron tends to make the finish 'blush' a bit. I forgot about that until right after I started.
I heated the bridge for about 30 seconds at a time, then tried a separating knife (paint palette knife) on the seams.
After a few rounds of heating, I can get the knife under the bridge. It's coming off very cleanly and easily.
There you have it! Came off perfectly. The bare wood on the top will help when I go to align the new bridge.
The old bridge does appear to be mahogany. Originally the plan was to carve a new on from a hunk of mahogany bracewood I have, but I had second thoughts. I just ordered a handful of bridge blanks from LMI, and I think I'll be using one of them instead.
You want a hardwood for the bridge, and mahogany is not as hard as, say, rosewood or ebony. I figure I may as well do an 'upgrade' while I have this thing apart. So I'll wait until the shipment arrives and go from there.
That’s some impressive craftsmanship and patience! Removing and replacing a bridge is no small task, and it’s great to see the attention to detail you’re putting into this Gretsch soprano ukulele. Upgrading to a harder wood like rosewood or ebony is a fantastic choice for improved tone and durability. Can’t wait to see the final result!
ReplyDeleteIf you're looking for premium bridge blanks or other exotic tonewoods for future projects, you should check out Exotic Wood Zone. They have a fantastic selection of high-quality woods that would be perfect for custom instrument work. Keep up the great work, and looking forward to more updates on this build!