After tracing the pattern of the old nut plus some extra height to the nut blank (I used 'vintage' bone), I use an X-Acto razor saw to trim it to a close shape.
Then I file the top to the correct curve. You can use the old nut as a curve template, or you can use a template curved to the fretboard's radius as a guide. I have a set of Stew-Mac radius gauges that I use for this.
Then put the nut on the guitar to lay out the string spacing. I measured and marked the E strings (the most outside 2 strings) for a spacing about 7/64 of an inch (2.77 mm) from the edge of the fretboard.
Then using a Stew-Mac string spacing gauge, line up the two outside marks with a set of 6 marks that most closely match your layout. The gauge is market with a number of notches, so you will find one that works.
Then mark and notch the marks with a razor saw (fine hacksaw or hobby knife will work too).
Then file the notches for each string. Be careful not to cut too low. There are a lot of techniques for this. This time I used a combination of feeler gauges under the file, my eye, and the real test - playing it. It usually takes me 3 or 4 shots to get the height as low as it can go without buzzing.
Trim off the excess length, use a fine file to get the final shaping, sand it with 600 grit paper, and polish it. Tune it up and play!
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