Removing Threaded Jacobs Chuck: Craftsman King-Seeley 103.23141 Drill Press Restoration, Pt. 11

So the motor is rebuilt with new bearings and works well.

Now I'll break down the drill press head and change the spindle bearings.

To get the spindle off, we first need to remove the chuck. You can see the chuck in the first picture - it's a Jacobs 633C. It uses a thread to attach to the spindle, rather than being pressed on using a taper mount.

We need a tool to get the chuck off. In theory, the non-keyed end of the chuck key has a pin that will fit the hole on the chuck's collar and enable it to be driven off. The collar I'm referring to is the smaller one at the top of the chuck - you can also see the 1/4 inch hole there. Insert a pin into the hole, turn the collar to the left, and it will come off.

That's the way it's designed to work.

However, I didn't have a key (yet), and in watching a video by the amazing Tubalcain, I learned how to make a tool that would work better than using the key.

Side note on Tubalcain's (Lyle) videos: highly entertaining and very educational.

To make the tool, I procured a piece of pipe at the local Despot. The pipe is close to the diameter of the chuck's collar. (I believe it's 1.5 inches).

The pipe will become a 'ring' that will go halfway around the chuck collar, providing more grip than just relying on the pin on the key, which can easily slip out of the hole on the collar.

My pipe is taller than the collar, so I need to cut it. Note where I marked it.

And this was also an excuse to try out a new Dremel EZ lock attachment and cutting wheel.

You can never have enough tools, or Dremel attachments.

Now we make some sparks, yes?

Whoo hoo.

The cutting wheel works great - I like it a whole lot better than the older style 'reinforced' cutting wheels. Cuts a lot easier and faster.

That pipe is about 1/8 of an inch thick and I cut through it like a soldering iron through...well, solder.

Here we are after the cut.

You can see that while the new wheels cut well, they still wear down quickly. Good thing I bought a 20 pack of them.

Next, we drill a 1/4 inch diameter hole in the 'ring' we just cut.

I used some tap oil on the bit and holy smokes does it help. I had been using Tap-Ease, which is more of a solid compound, when cutting. I like the oil a lot better. Wow.

Now cut the ring in half. We get to make more sparks.

Wear gloves. Use eye protection. I am frequently guilty of just grabbing the tool and going at it, but I am trying to be more safety conscious. I suggest you do the same.

File down the rough edges from the cuts.

And here we have our custom, shop-made, vintage Jacobs chuck removal ring tool!

Here's how it works: the removal tool goes around the collar, line the hole up with the hole in the collar. Then put a pin through the tool into the collar's pin, and whap it off.

I may have written this before. I've found I enjoy making jigs, mounts and special tools like this. I used to want to just get on with the job and would rush this stuff. Now I take a lot of care and find it enjoyable to make and use a homebrew piece.

This didn't take much time, and now I have a cool piece that will last forever.

Now to get the chuck off.

I chucked (ha) a long allen wrench in the press, and held it in place with some scrap wood in a vise as you can see. (Thanks Lyle).  The idea is it will hold the chuck when you bang on the collar. Otherwise, the chuck would just turn and the collar would stay locked.

Note the removal tool in place on the collar. In his video, Lyle suggested cutting the end of an old drill bit off to use as a pin, but I figured, why waste a bit? I might be able to get the chuck off and still have the bit in one piece.

Use the non-bit end in the tool as you see here. I'm sure you see what we're going to do. The tool will help apply leverage to the collar, since it goes around it.

A few careful, gentle but firm hits with a small hammer and it loosens the collar. A lot easier than I anticipated, to be honest.

Once again, I used the plastic end of my fretting hammer. Tapped it near the base of the drill bit so as to not bend the bit.

And it comes right off. Chuck-on-a-stick.

I'd guess it's been on there since it left the King-Seeley factory in Michigan in 1953.

You can probably visualize how you'd use the plain end of the proper chuck key to do this too. But on an old chuck, the pin might slip right out - I like this tool idea better.

(And yes, I have procured the key in the meantime, since I will need it!)

Here's a closeup of our Jacobs 633C chuck. After I get the press torn down and the bearings replaced, I'll disassemble the chuck and clean it up.

The complete restoration saga

Part 1 - Beginning

Part 2 - Electrolysis to Remove Rust

Part 3 - Grinding to Remove Rust

Part 4 - Leveling Base Table

Part 5 - Recreating Model Number Label

Part 6 - Refinishing Base

Part 7 - Removing Motor

Part 8 - Motor Disassembly

Part 9 - Motor Bearing Replacement

Part 10 - Start Capacitor and Motor Reassembly

Part 11 - Removing Threaded Jacobs Chuck

Part 12 - Spindle Removal

Part 13 - Quill Disassembly

Part 14 - New Quill and Spindle Bearings

Part 15 - Engine Turned Aluminum Trim Proof of Concept

Part 16 - Engine Turned Aluminum Trim

Part 17 - Cleaning and Polishing Hardware

Part 18 - Jacobs 633C Drill Chuck Restoration

Part 19 - Cleaning and Polishing Column

Part 20 - Reassembly Begins

Part 21 - Restoration Completed