With the body ready for the Stratoblaster...err..Danoblaster, we can do the final wiring and put it in the guitar.
This is the factory location of the output jack on the control plate. We're going to remove it, and put the custom value push-pull switch/gain control in its place.
That pot has a little locator tab on it. We break that off since we need the pot to lay flat on the panel.
Mount the switch into the hole vacated by the output jack.
I printed the layout diagram from General Guitar Gadgets and then set about shortening and resoldering connections. Leaving the leads at the length I had them for testing is an invitation for noise and hum pickup.
Which we don't want.
In an effort to keep some RF out, I got a little crazy and wrapped the leads that run to and from the Danoblaster PCB to the switch with copper foil tape. It may not be necessary, but I figured with all that extra gain it can't hurt.
Then I soldered a lead to the tape and ran that to the most convenient ground point, which is the output jack.
I also have coax going from the output of the Blaster to the jack as well. The coax is grounded on one end only - I used the jack ground again. If you ground it at both ends, you'll have a ground loop which causes hum.
Here's the guitar semi-assembled for testing. It worked fine.
You may be able to see the battery for the Blaster tucked inside the lower rim of the guitar - I mounted a battery clip there. I wound up tying the PCB to the volume control leads with a wire tie - that way the all of the electronics are more or less one assembly, and hopefully be more reliable.
That way there will be less flying leads when it's time for a battery change. (I admit I accidentallly broke off a few of those tiny connections when fiddling with all of the wiring).
Also note where the relocated output jack will go - in the hole we drilled in the last post.
I'm contemplating a series/parallel pickup switch as well, but I'd like to test-wire one first before I commit to it. So I need to string the guitar up at this point in order to test that switching and see if there is enough of a tonal difference to put it on the guitar.
I use DR strings on my electric guitars. Their packaging has just changed to this "corrosion proof" shrink-wrapped package. I like it.
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