During the process of removing (detaching?) the neck from the body on the Guild, the fingerboard developed a break along the bass side edge. The piece is still there - but it needs to be reattached.
I say 'developed' but I'm sure it happened quickly. I'm not exactly sure when - it may have been when I was getting the fingerboard extension loose, or it may have been when the neck was freed up.
At any rate, I have a crack to fix. Usually cracks aren't too bad, but this one is in an odd place, and the real issue is that it's where wood (in the form of ebony) and binding (in the form of plastic) join together.
I don't know what adhesive Guild used when this was made, but I've tried Titebond twice to no avail. I thought it might not adhere well to plastic and I am correct.
So I decided to try my new best friend glue in the world - hot hide glue. I heated up my current fresh jar of hide glue and went at it. I suspect Guild used hide glue originally, since they clearly used that on the neck joint. I would applaud them for that, but since they used like a liter of the stuff, well, I applaud with only one hand.
What you see in the picture above is the post-gluing, clamped-up mode. The red clamp is holding the split-off-hunk into place.
This morning I unclamped it. You can see (green arrow) that the hunk is still Not Quite Level with the top of the fingerboard. However, it's pretty sturdy and I don't think it's going to separate. I'm happy about that part.
Now some folks might be tempted to just chisel off the top bit so it's level. But I am not most folks.
One of the nice things about hide glue is that it will soften in hot water and harden again. I think if I just put a little hot (not above 145 degrees F....) water on it, I should be able to align the thing exactly.
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